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    Iron Sommelier 2024

    Steakhouse wine expert wins prestigious Houston sommelier competition

    Holly Beretto
    Nov 11, 2024 | 12:32 pm

    Matthew McLaughlin from Guard & Grace is Houston’s 2024 Iron Sommelier. The annual competition took place at The Post Oak Hotel on November 7.

    McLaughlin was one of 14 sommeliers from the city’s bars and restaurants who competed in the event, which benefits The Periwinkle Foundation, a nonprofit providing support and programming for children with cancer and other life-threatening illnesses. The organization offers emotionally-healing camps, arts, and survivor programs. Iron Sommelier, which has become one of Houston’s premier sommelier competitions and wine-tasting events, was sponsored by AUTOSOL® and raised more than $410,000.

    Each sommelier picked three wines centered around a specific region, grape, or style. Judges evaluated the wines on selection, presentation, originality, and expertise. Colin Eddy of Hyland Estates and NW Wine Company, Paul Hobbs of Paul Hobbs Wineries, Lauren Holbrook of Della Terra Wines, and Gabe Howe of CDV 713 judged the event.

    McLaughlin’s presentation, Rhône If You Want To: Rhône Around The World showcased Rhone-style grapes, such as Cinsault, Syrah, and Grenache, grown in places other than France’s Rhone Valley. He poured the 2022 Pedro Parra “Trane” Cinsault from Chile, the 2021 Thistledown “The Vagabond” Old Vine Grenache from Australia’s McLaren Vale, and the 2021 Reyvaan “Stonessence” Syrah from Walla Walla, Washington.

    For the 600 guests in attendance, the evening provided an opportunity both to taste a variety of wines and to learn from the participating sommeliers about what makes them special. Alvin Pham, who took home Second Runner Up and Best Wine awards, decked out his booth in an homage to the defunct video chain Blockbuster, complete with movie snacks like Gummy Bears and Bit-O-Honey. His theme, Be Kind and Re-wine: Abandoned Vineyards and Wineries Restoring Them, recognized sustainable winemaking. His selections included the 2022 Andis Old Vine Zinfandel.

    “The vineyard was planted in the 1800s, during the Gold Rush,” he tells CultureMap. “Now, the winemakers have replenished and renewed it, and they’re planting Zinfandel, just like in the 1800s.”

    Both Brennan Harmeier of The Library Wine Bar and Sarah Brenner of Vinology Bottle Shop + Tasting Bar made Champagne the focus of their presentations. Under the theme POP Culture Icons: Celebrating Iconic Styles of Bubbles, Brenner poured the Cellar Jan Vidal “Vita Vivet” Cava Brut NV, the Adami “Bosso di Gica” Brut Valobbiadene DOCG, and Philipponnat Royal Reserve Brut Champagne. Harmier came away with The People’s Choice Award for his Let’s Get Fizz-ical: a Rosé Champagne meets workout theme.

    “I feel rose gets a bad rap,” Harmier says. “It gets seen as this ‘rose all day’ fad or it’s seen as girly. But great rose Champagne has been around for 200 years.”

    Other awards are:

    1st Runner Up
    Kelly Rau, AOC Selections & The Texas Wine School with a theme of Grüner or Later: Austria’s Greatest Grape

    2nd Runner Up
    Alvin Pham, Andiron with Be Kind and Re-wine: Abandoned Vineyards and Wineries Restoring Them

    People’s Choice
    Brennan Harmeier, The Library Wine Bar with a theme of Let’s Get Fizz-ical: a Rosé Champagne Workout

    Best Wine
    Alvin Pham, Andiron for the 2019 Cliff Lede Beckstoffer To Kalon Cabernet Sauvignon Vineyard

    Best Theme
    John Mason, The Coronado Club for Break It Down Now: The Wines of Australia

    The evening’s other Iron Sommelier competitions included Harold Houpt, 13 Celsius Wine Bar; Kate Severson, Houston Oaks Country Club & Retreat; Lucas Bowes, March; Davis Allen Wood, Mastro’s Steakhouse; Travis Walker, Padre’s Wine; Jason Barnett, Pappas Bros. Steakhouse; Dennis Vawter, River Oaks Country Club; and Sarah Brenner, Vinology Bottle Shop + Tasting Bar.

    World-renowned winemaker Paul Hobbs also served as a guest judge. His 2020 Hillick & Hobbs Dry Riesling from Seneca Lake, New York was one of the wines served at a multi-course dinner in the Underwriter Room. Other selections from his winery were available for tasking at a sampling station in the hotel's entry foyer.

    And four master sommeliers offered a selection of rare, high-end wines to underwriters in the exclusive Masters Tasting Room.

    In addition to sampling wines, attendees bid on several auction packages, including a four-night getaway to the wine country of Gigondas in southern France, featuring VIP tastings; personalized wine and dining experiences at iconic Houston restaurants such as Brennan's and Bludorn; a curated 40-50 bottle personalized wine cellar, plus a 10-bottle collection of artisan agave, gin, rum, and whiskey, selected by sommelier Sean Beck; and exclusive food and wine experiences with master sommeliers, including former Iron Sommelier champion Julie Dalton of The Post Oak.

    Other items up for bid included artwork by pediatric cancer patients at Texas Children’s and Hematology Center through the Periwinkle Arts in Medicine program.

    Among the guests were Melinda and Matt Mogas, Sherry and Connard Barker, Sherri and Chris Boatwright, Lindsey Brown and Chris Shepherd, Erin Hicks and Bryan Caswell, Laura and Jeff Kaplan, Cathy Easter, Michael Garfield, Gary Moss, Monique Pappas, Cia Pappas, Joy and Mike Rayburn, Judy and Chris Simon, and Jennifer Vallone and Doug Klesel.

    Iron Sommelier 2024
      

    Photo by Dave Rossman

    Emcee Kevin Quiin and Periwinkle executive director Doug Suggitt.

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    wine guy wednesday

    Chris Shepherd breaks bread with Houston's 7 master sommeliers

    Chris Shepherd
    Apr 23, 2025 | 2:06 pm
    Chris Shepherd master sommelier dinner
    Courtesy of Chris Shepherd
    Clockwine from front: June Rodil, Julie Dalton, Keith Goldston, Jack Mason, Steven McDonald, Chris Shepherd, Guy Stout, and Brandon Kerne.

    This week something amazing happened that I didn’t see coming. Well, not exactly, I should say.

    Last year at Southern Smoke’s Decanted fundraiser, we auctioned off a night at our house where I would make snacks and all the master sommeliers in Houston would bring a bottle that meant something special to them. Did I ever think all seven of Houston’s master sommeliers would be able to find one night that they would all be available? Not really, because I know how busy they all are.

    Then the day came, and the stars aligned perfectly — it happened! Two of them may have flown in that day — including one who landed an hour before the event after an 9-hour flight home — but it happened, and it was magical. Let me drop some tidbits of information about how special this was.

    According to Wikipedia, here is what it takes to become a Master Sommelier.

    Those who wish to take the Master Sommelier exam must have passed the Advanced exam, be invited or recommended to sit the exam, and have typically worked in the industry for at least 10 years. The exam covers all aspects of the world and industry of wine, beer, spirits, cocktails, and hospitality from a business, service and philosophical approach. The three part, oral exam consists of theory (must be passed before taking the other two parts), blind tasting six wines before a panel, and service; the three sections do not need be attempted at once.

    The typical pass rate at the Master Sommelier exam is around 3–8 percent of applicants; in some instances as few as 1 in 70 have succeeded . . . Only 14 people have ever passed the Master level on the first try.

    Currently there are 279 Master Sommeliers in the world, and seven work and live right here in Houston. Why is that? You are the reason! Houstonians drink wine, quite a bit of it actually. From working in distribution, running restaurant programs, education and sales to owning a winery, there is a lot for an MS to do here.

    I have cooked at a lot of dinners with amazing chefs each doing a course, and those events are magical. This event was similar in thought process, since each one of these amazing people brought something to the party that meant something to them.

    There are very few times that you get seven people at the top of their chosen careers that open up their thoughts, hearts, and cellars to find one bottle that means something emotional to them. You don’t get seven of the greatest doctors in the world to look at you all at the same time when you have a cold. Seven of the greatest NBA players in the world to play Horse with you in the backyard, or seven of the greatest singers to sing you a lullaby at night.

    But that greatness happened, and I saw it, tasted it, and got to cook for it. They came together not just for a fun night. They all believe in the work that the Southern Smoke Foundation is doing to help change the food and beverage industry. I want to thank the lovely couple that purchased this lot for their belief in the organization because, without them, this would not have happened.

    You wanna know what wines these sommeliers brought to dinner? My wife Lindsey recorded every one of them describing what they brought, and then she transcribed it because she is amazing and quite frankly, I’m just not that talented.

    Let’s be honest. I write these article in the Notes App on my phone because I don’t own or know how to use a computer. Please enjoy, and, while you’re reading, understand the commitment and the knowledge that these folks have. Let’s cheer on those that are on the path to achieve this goal as well.

    Let your next sommelier guide you and see what your night turns into. I bet it’s magical.

    Guy Stout: Stout Cabernet 2014 and Kyla

    “It’s my wine. 2014 was a great vintage. We only did a few magnums, and I wanted to share with our friends. I also brought Kyla, which is the swan song from Stout Vineyards in Blanco, Texas. This was the last vintage from my vineyard of 20 years. We made a pet-nat. It’s Syrah and Tempranillo. It means a lot to me — this is the last wine that we made from our vineyard before we invested in Napa and started the Stout Napa project.”

    Julie Dalton: Donnhoff Dellchen 2016 GG

    “Riesling is my reason, and I thought it would be fun to show why it should be everyone’s reason. People don’t realize how delicious dry Riesling is, and I thought it would be a cool opportunity — looking at the menu with the pork and the duck and the cheeses — all of these salty, rich things want an explosion of acidity and brightness. That’s what dry Riesling does. Dry Riesling is the perfect way to incorporate an aria into any symphony of food.”

    Keith Goldston: 2013 Olivier Bernstein Les Cazetiers, Gevrey-Chambertin Premier Cru, France

    “What I brought tonight was a little red Burgundy because when in doubt, you might as well go for the heartbreaker grape, Pinot Noir. Olivier Bernstein is this rockstar in Burgundy who doesn’t make many wines, came in from the outside, and you just don’t see them. We happened to have a 2013 magnum hanging out, and it seemed like the perfect night for it.”

    Brandon Kerne: St Aubin Derriere Chez Edouard Haute Densite Hubert Lamy 2021, 1989 Chateau Pape Clement, 2022 Joannes Violot-Guillemard Aux Clous, Savigny-les-Beaune Premier Cru, France

    “I brought St Aubin Derriere Chez Edouard because everybody loves them some reductive blended chardonnay right now. We needed enough to go around, so always bring a magnum! And then the 89 Pape Clement is old Bordeaux we source directly from the estate, top vintage, top estate, and almost 40 years old now. This Violot-Guilleard is something we just got in, something that I found in Burgundy that I spent two years trying to bring in. It just landed, so I wanted to share with my friends.”

    Steven McDonald: 2012 Ca' Brusa Bricco San Pietro Vigna d'Vai

    “I brought the Ca’ Brusa Barolo Riserva. Why? Because I’m pretty much on brand with my love of the Nebbiolo grape. This is a great example of one of the top riservas of the Monforte region of Barolo. It’s drinking great, and everything is better in a magnum.”

    Jack Mason: Guilio Ferrari 2002

    “This is Guilio Ferrari, the top wine of Ferrari in Trentodoc in Trentino, Italy. This is 100 percent Chardonnay aged over 10 years on the lees. This was ’02 but disgorged in ’15 in magnum. I love Trentodoc, because it’s got the alpine freshness and absolutely delicious.”

    June Rodil: 2007 Albert Morot Beaune Les Marconnets and Champagne Diebolt-Vallois 'Fleur de Passion’ 2013

    “I brought two bottles because everyone else brought magnums, and I wanted to be equal! First bottle is 2007 Albert Morot Beaune Les Marconnets. It’s not really about the producer — it’s more about the vintage for me. It’s ’07, and it’s been sitting in my cellar so I wanted to share it. Also, the first year I went to Burgundy was in 2010, and we were drinking ‘07s. And it was really special. Also because critics poopooed on this year, and they were totally wrong! This is fabulous and drinking really well! I wouldn’t hold it anymore — I would drink it now.

    Second, in honor of one of the greatest ladies in wine of all time, Martine was an importer. May she ever rest in peace. She just passed away. She imported this wine. When she was importing, it was the first time I ever had this wine. Diebolt-Vallois 'Fleur de Passion.' 100 percent Chardonnay. Delicious. So good! 2013 Vintage. Drop the mic! One of the best tête de cuvée from an independent producer.”

    -----

    What wine would you bring to a dinner at Chris's house? Tell Chris via email at chris@chrisshepherd.is.

    Chris Shepherd won a James Beard Award for Best Chef: Southwest in 2014. The Southern Smoke Foundation, a nonprofit he co-founded with his wife Lindsey Brown, has distributed more than $11 million to hospitality workers in crisis through its Emergency Relief Fund. Catch his TV show, Eat Like a Local, every Saturday at 10 am on KPRC Channel 2.

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