to infinity and beyond

New Montrose 'record bar' serves up spot to eat, drink, and chill

Two talented chefs have teamed up to open a new bar and lounge in Montrose. Chefs Lung Ly and Gary Ly (no relation) unveiled 93’ Til over the weekend.

Located in the former Night Heron space at 1601 W. Main St., the restaurant represents a homecoming for both chefs. Diners may recognize Gary Ly from his time working at Underbelly and Revival Market; he left Houston over three years ago to work for celebrity chef David Chang’s Momofuku empire in New York. Lung Ly left Houston 10 years ago for various cities along the West Coast.

The two childhood friends reconnected in New York and started contemplating an establishment that took its inspiration from, in Gary Ly’s words, “a lot of small, Japanese, divey bars.”

While divey late night spots might be part of the inspiration, the vibe is slightly more upscale. The space has been transformed with new lighting and an entire wall devoted to the establishment’s record collection — a mix of jazz, blues, hip hop, and other genres. Those looking to dine will find some regular tables and chairs, while those who want to drink and listen to music can relax around comfy couches.

Named for the Souls of Mischief song “93 ‘Til Infinity,” the name also nods to the year Lung Ly moved to Houston with his family. “It’s a record bar,” he explains. “A place to hang out and chill and do the food that we want to cook.”

That food consists of a tidy menu of 12 items that draw inspiration from the various places the chefs have worked and the food they like to eat. It starts with four kinds of toast — foie gras with pecan butter and lemon preserves, clam ragout and sausage, avocado, and chicken liver mousse — plus a few vegetable plates, snackable items like citrus-cured hamachi and fried frogs legs, and a fried chicken sandwich made with chicken thigh (a more flavorful alternative to chicken breast).

“I would call it American food,” Lung Ly says. “We’re both born in the States. We don’t have a particular type of food that we grew up on. Especially growing up in Houston, there’s so many different things to eat.”

The chefs recruited veteran Houston bartender Jojo Martinez to oversee the beverage program. Martinez will serve a mix of creative cocktails and natural wine, a new interest she’s been studying while visiting nearby wine bar Light Years. Until 93 ‘Til receives its liquor license, Martinez is serving a nightly punch and offering complimentary sips of her future selections.

The establishment is currently open for dinner Tuesday - Sunday beginning at 4 pm. Gary Ly tells Eater Houston that lunch and brunch service will follow in the coming weeks.

Can't have a record bar without records.

Photo by Eric Sandler

Can't have a record bar without records.

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One Day Only

Chef of Michelin-starred Texas BBQ joint pops up at Houston crawfish favorite

Photo by Quit Nguyen

Join Lucas McKinney for a crawfish pop-up this Sunday, May 17.

The pitmaster behind one of Texas’ Michelin-starred barbecue joints will be in Houston for a one-day-only crawfish boil. Evan LeRoy, chef and co-owner of Austin’s LeRoy and Lewis Barbecue, will be at Josephine’s this Sunday, May 17 from 2-6 pm.

Part of the restaurant’s Backyard Boil pop-up series, LeRoy and Josephine’s executive chef Lucas McKinney have collaborated on a four dishes that will be served at the pop-up, which will take place on Josephine’s patio. They are:

Smoked Crawfish Boil Sausage on a Stick: andouille flavored pork sausage with crawfish, corn, and potatoes
Brisket and Cheddar Croquettes: Chopped brisket and cheddar cheese in a creamy bechamel. Scooped, breaded in panko, and fried til crispy
Oysters on the Half Shell: Pickled Onion Mignonette, Smoked Jalapeno Salsa, Kimchi Elote
Smoked Salsa Macha with Beef Tallow: Guajillo, ancho, and arbol chiles, lime, soy, garlic, onion, pepitas, and pecans

The pop-up is part of LeRoy’s tour for his new book, New School Barbecue: Recipes for Next-Level Smoking and Grilling, which he co-wrote with Texas Monthly restaurant critic Paula Forbes. Released this week, the book contains almost 100 recipes for mains, sides, and desserts.

LeRoy & Lewis Evan Leroy ATX Evan LeRoy is coming to Houston this weekend. Photo by Briana Balducci

“Lucas asked me to participate in a crawfish boil this year, and it happened to line up with the release of the book, so I said yes,” LeRoy tells CultureMap. “The event format centers around a crawfish boil, along with some fried items and oysters, so it doesn't necessarily reflect the recipes in the book. Instead, we decided to bring a few dishes we’ve been working on over the past year or so, including the brisket and cheddar croquettes — which will definitely make it into my next cookbook.”

McKinney has already hosted pop-ups with the likes of ChòpnBlọk chef-owner Ope Amosu and Mike Pham of Trill Burgers.

“With these crawfish boils, I want each chef to bring their own perspective and let the menu reflect their personal style of cooking,” McKinney adds. “Events like this are really centered around community, collaboration, and introducing something fresh and exciting to Houston each time.”

LeRoy and Lewis has earned wide acclaim for its “new school” barbecue. In addition to being one of only four Texas barbecue joints to hold a Michelin star, it ranked No. 2 on Texas Monthly’s list of the state’s 50 best barbecue joints. McKinney began patronizing the restaurant when his friend, pitmaster Cole Parkman, worked there.

“It’s incredibly good,” McKinney says. “Eating there feels like they’re telling you, ‘I know you think you like brisket, but this is what you should really like.’ I really respect that they’ve planted their feet firmly in the ground and committed to doing things differently. It all makes so much sense — and it’s delicious.”

Reservations (free) are required to attend the Backyard Boil at Josephine’s; both 2 pm and 4 pm seatings are available. Attendees will purchase food and drinks a la carte. Josephine’s regular menu will not be available at the pop-up. Copies of New School Barbecue will also be available for purchase.

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