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    The Watching League

    A subtle breastaurant? Brick House's confusing low-cut uniforms are part of theshow

    Amy Chien
    Dec 14, 2012 | 2:38 pm
    • A subtle breastaurant? This is the Brick House's typical uniform.
      Courtesy photo
    • The Brick House
      Brick House Tavern + Tap/Facebook
    • There are ton of different choices for drinks at Brick House. But quantity isnot quality.
      Photo by Amy Chien
    • Going with the sliders at Brick House wasn't my best idea.
      Photo by Amy Chien
    • There are some interesting food choices at Brick House. Some hit, others don't.
      Photo by Amy Chien
    • Are these the meatballs you expect when a whole section of the menu is devotedto the item?
      Photo by Amy Chien
    • Photo by Amy Chien
    • Photo by Amy Chien
    • Photo by Amy Chien

    Editor's note: Amy Chien is on a one-woman quest to find the perfect bar to watch football (and especially the Houston Texans) in.

    Although not nearly as grueling as the Tough Mudder, finishing the Warrior Dash still called for celebratory beers and fried food. Brick House on the Northwest Freeway was the perfect place to stop by on the way back home. I was excited to revisit Brick House as part of my quest to find the perfect football-watching sports bar.

    The Crowd
    I was expecting an older crowd since we were outside of the Loop and into the burbs. To my surprise, the crowd was mostly in their twenties and thirties with a sprinkling of middle aged couples. No kids to be seen here, perhaps because it is a semi breastaurant (although that didn’t seem to stop people from bringing their children to Twin Peaks).

    The waitresses wear low-cut, cleavage heavy polo shirts. I wish they would pick a side: Either be overtly sexy or wear regular uniforms. The subtle breastaurant-ness confuses me.

    Score: Field Goal (Three Points)

    Televisions/Game Viewage
    Brick House has plenty of screens around for your viewing pleasure as well as at least five types of seating: Tables, regular booths, booths with couches, La-Z-Boys, and bar. I loved the sofa booths — the cushion covers look like something my grandparents would have, a substantial cloth that is nice and cozy.

    The waitresses wear low-cut, cleavage heavy polo shirts. I wish they would pick a side: Either be overtly sexy or wear regular uniforms.

    My personal preference would be the La-Z-Boy sofas (who wouldn’t want to be the Joey and Chandler at a bar?) but since we had a big group, we were seated at a table. Fine by me since that made the food sharing easier. I did, however, glance jealously at the La-Z-Boys complete with trays and drink holders on my way to the bathroom.

    Every table had views of multiple screens, and the manager even took the initiative to ask if we wanted to watch the Saints game since the husband was wearing a New Orleans jersey.

    Score: Touchdown and a two-point conversion (Eight Points)

    Drinks
    Sometimes quantity is not quality, so I was wary of getting too excited about the prospect of choosing from their 80-plus beer selection. I got an Australian stout from Coopers Best Brewery, while the husband got an English nut brown ale from Samuel Smith Brewery. Both lived up to our expectations.

    My friends lauded praise on the Pimms Cup and the Black & Blue (Blue Moon and Guinness) as well. I was still recovering from a hangover, or else I would have definitely tried the The Zombie (Bacardi Rum, Bacardi 151, Captain Morgan, Pineapple, Orange & topped with Myers’s Dark Rum) which apparently is so potent that they limit it to one per customer.

    Score: Field Goal (Three Points)

    Food
    We started the game off with deviled eggs with bacon, which were served on an elevated silver platter. The presentation was great but the eggs were a little rubbery.

    I was disappointed that the Blue & White Chips (blue cheese crumbles and white queso) were served with potato chips instead of tortilla chips (we are in Texas, after all!), but my friends found it to be a refreshing change. I had to admit, the spicy and creamy queso paired quite well with the house made chips.

    The excellent service more than made up for the food shortcomings.

    The sliders didn’t fare quite as well. The buns were stale and the patties were thin and overcooked. I should’ve listened to the manager, who highly recommended their burgers instead of their sliders.

    The panko parmesan crusted zucchini curls made up for the lackluster sliders, especially when dipped in the sriracha ranch that came on the side. The Sweet and Spicy Tails (crispy shrimp, cherry peppers & sweet chili sauce) were lightly breaded, keeping the shrimp juicy and tender.

    Unlike with the sliders, I followed the manager’s advice and got the housemade traditional meatballs. I figured the meatballs here had to be good — they had their own category on the Brick House menu, after all!

    Having recently read all about the New York based restaurant Meatball Shop, I had a very definite image in my head of juicy, large meatballs, oozing with sauce and cheese. In reality, the Brick House meatballs were hard to break apart, dry, and small. The bread that came on the side reminded me of the grocery store frozen loafs you pop in the bakery: Greasy and not nearly yeasty enough.

    The only saving grace in this dish were the fried mozzarella sticks. Lesson learned: Fried foods are always better!

    Thankfully, we ended the game with the Kobe brick pizza. Unlike the bread that came with the meatballs, you can tell the slightly charred but still soft crust was made at the restaurant.

    Pieces of tender and flavorful Kobe beef and generous slices of bacon covered the pizza, and the bitterness of the arugula evened out the sweet caramelized onions.

    The excellent service more than made up for the food shortcomings. No one knew we were there to review the restaurant (who reviews Brick House?), yet the manager stopped by our table several times to make sure everything was OK, as he did for most other parties there. They were more than happy to give us taste samples for the beer, our food and drinks came out promptly, and they even gave us two extra refills on our queso.

    Score: Field Goal (Three Points)

    Recap: 17 points

    Brick House is a great place to watch the game with above average drinks, mediocre food and excellent service. I would definitely return if I were in the area.

    unspecified
    news/restaurants-bars

    say hey to Hypsi

    Houston chef's hip new Italian restaurant now open in Heights hotel

    Eric Sandler
    Dec 4, 2025 | 5:05 pm
    Hypsi restaurant food spread
    Photo by Julie Soefer
    Hypsi serves pasta and other Itaian-inspired dishes.

    A new Italian restaurant is now open in the Heights. Located within the newly opened Hotel Daphne, Hypsi marks chef Terrence Gallivan’s return to professional cooking in Houston.

    Known for his time as the co-execuive chef of The Pass and Provisions and owner of ElRo Pizza and Crudo, Gallivan brings strong culinary credentials to Hypsi. Although he isn’t known explicitly for Italian fare, he has significant experience making pizza, pasts, and other Italian-inspired dishes. After closing ElRo last year, the chef says that working for Bunkhouse Hotels, the Austin-based company that operates the Daphne, had a lot of appeal.

    “My wife and I always made it a point to stop at their places whenever we’re in Austin. They know how to make cool stuff,” Gallivan says.

    Hypsi’s menu includes updated takes on Italian fare begins with starters such as lamb meatballs, black truffle arancini, and Caesar salad. A selection of house-made pastas include squid ink radiatori with rock shrimp, butternut squash tortellini, and lumache with vodka sauce that gets a little heat from nduja. Entree choices include a roast chicken, pork Milanese, and roasted snapper with salsa verde.

    The restaurant is also open for breakfast during the week and brunch on the weekends with items such as a panatone waffle, frittata, and breakfast sandwich. Lunch will follow in January.

    “We took inspiration from tradition without being traditional,” Gallivan says. Later, he adds, “For me, it’s about balance. You try to please everybody. I want my mom to enjoy herself as much as a 25-year-old foodie. It’s important to hit as many marks as you can.”

    One of the restaurant’s signatures will be the mozzarella cart that rolls through its dining room. Gallivan says he’s sourcing a mix of both American and imported Italian cheeses that will rotate every week or two. The cheese is served with a range of pickled fruit and vegetables, olive oil, aged balsamic vinegar, focaccia, and more. Of course, seeing a cart immediately grabs diners’ attention, making them want whatever is on offer.

    “That’s the beauty of carts,” Gallivan says. “It’s a fun thing to do. I think sometimes we get a little too serious in restaurants. It’s supposed to be fun. People are here to enjoy themselves.”

    All that eating and drinking takes place in a dining room that’s inspired by Prohibition-era speakeasies, according to press materials. Details include blueberry lava stone on the bar, vintage velvet chairs, and custom Carimate dining chairs by Vico Magistretti. An outdoor patio features brick pavers, mosaic tables, and sculptures.

    Hypsi restaurant food spread

    Photo by Julie Soefer

    Hypsi serves pasta and other Itaian-inspired dishes.

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