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    The Watching League

    A subtle breastaurant? Brick House's confusing low-cut uniforms are part of theshow

    Amy Chien
    Dec 14, 2012 | 2:38 pm
    • A subtle breastaurant? This is the Brick House's typical uniform.
      Courtesy photo
    • The Brick House
      Brick House Tavern + Tap/Facebook
    • There are ton of different choices for drinks at Brick House. But quantity isnot quality.
      Photo by Amy Chien
    • Going with the sliders at Brick House wasn't my best idea.
      Photo by Amy Chien
    • There are some interesting food choices at Brick House. Some hit, others don't.
      Photo by Amy Chien
    • Are these the meatballs you expect when a whole section of the menu is devotedto the item?
      Photo by Amy Chien
    • Photo by Amy Chien
    • Photo by Amy Chien
    • Photo by Amy Chien

    Editor's note: Amy Chien is on a one-woman quest to find the perfect bar to watch football (and especially the Houston Texans) in.

    Although not nearly as grueling as the Tough Mudder, finishing the Warrior Dash still called for celebratory beers and fried food. Brick House on the Northwest Freeway was the perfect place to stop by on the way back home. I was excited to revisit Brick House as part of my quest to find the perfect football-watching sports bar.

    The Crowd
    I was expecting an older crowd since we were outside of the Loop and into the burbs. To my surprise, the crowd was mostly in their twenties and thirties with a sprinkling of middle aged couples. No kids to be seen here, perhaps because it is a semi breastaurant (although that didn’t seem to stop people from bringing their children to Twin Peaks).

    The waitresses wear low-cut, cleavage heavy polo shirts. I wish they would pick a side: Either be overtly sexy or wear regular uniforms. The subtle breastaurant-ness confuses me.

    Score: Field Goal (Three Points)

    Televisions/Game Viewage
    Brick House has plenty of screens around for your viewing pleasure as well as at least five types of seating: Tables, regular booths, booths with couches, La-Z-Boys, and bar. I loved the sofa booths — the cushion covers look like something my grandparents would have, a substantial cloth that is nice and cozy.

    The waitresses wear low-cut, cleavage heavy polo shirts. I wish they would pick a side: Either be overtly sexy or wear regular uniforms.

    My personal preference would be the La-Z-Boy sofas (who wouldn’t want to be the Joey and Chandler at a bar?) but since we had a big group, we were seated at a table. Fine by me since that made the food sharing easier. I did, however, glance jealously at the La-Z-Boys complete with trays and drink holders on my way to the bathroom.

    Every table had views of multiple screens, and the manager even took the initiative to ask if we wanted to watch the Saints game since the husband was wearing a New Orleans jersey.

    Score: Touchdown and a two-point conversion (Eight Points)

    Drinks
    Sometimes quantity is not quality, so I was wary of getting too excited about the prospect of choosing from their 80-plus beer selection. I got an Australian stout from Coopers Best Brewery, while the husband got an English nut brown ale from Samuel Smith Brewery. Both lived up to our expectations.

    My friends lauded praise on the Pimms Cup and the Black & Blue (Blue Moon and Guinness) as well. I was still recovering from a hangover, or else I would have definitely tried the The Zombie (Bacardi Rum, Bacardi 151, Captain Morgan, Pineapple, Orange & topped with Myers’s Dark Rum) which apparently is so potent that they limit it to one per customer.

    Score: Field Goal (Three Points)

    Food
    We started the game off with deviled eggs with bacon, which were served on an elevated silver platter. The presentation was great but the eggs were a little rubbery.

    I was disappointed that the Blue & White Chips (blue cheese crumbles and white queso) were served with potato chips instead of tortilla chips (we are in Texas, after all!), but my friends found it to be a refreshing change. I had to admit, the spicy and creamy queso paired quite well with the house made chips.

    The excellent service more than made up for the food shortcomings.

    The sliders didn’t fare quite as well. The buns were stale and the patties were thin and overcooked. I should’ve listened to the manager, who highly recommended their burgers instead of their sliders.

    The panko parmesan crusted zucchini curls made up for the lackluster sliders, especially when dipped in the sriracha ranch that came on the side. The Sweet and Spicy Tails (crispy shrimp, cherry peppers & sweet chili sauce) were lightly breaded, keeping the shrimp juicy and tender.

    Unlike with the sliders, I followed the manager’s advice and got the housemade traditional meatballs. I figured the meatballs here had to be good — they had their own category on the Brick House menu, after all!

    Having recently read all about the New York based restaurant Meatball Shop, I had a very definite image in my head of juicy, large meatballs, oozing with sauce and cheese. In reality, the Brick House meatballs were hard to break apart, dry, and small. The bread that came on the side reminded me of the grocery store frozen loafs you pop in the bakery: Greasy and not nearly yeasty enough.

    The only saving grace in this dish were the fried mozzarella sticks. Lesson learned: Fried foods are always better!

    Thankfully, we ended the game with the Kobe brick pizza. Unlike the bread that came with the meatballs, you can tell the slightly charred but still soft crust was made at the restaurant.

    Pieces of tender and flavorful Kobe beef and generous slices of bacon covered the pizza, and the bitterness of the arugula evened out the sweet caramelized onions.

    The excellent service more than made up for the food shortcomings. No one knew we were there to review the restaurant (who reviews Brick House?), yet the manager stopped by our table several times to make sure everything was OK, as he did for most other parties there. They were more than happy to give us taste samples for the beer, our food and drinks came out promptly, and they even gave us two extra refills on our queso.

    Score: Field Goal (Three Points)

    Recap: 17 points

    Brick House is a great place to watch the game with above average drinks, mediocre food and excellent service. I would definitely return if I were in the area.

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    Coming soon to Fredericksburg

    Houston restaurant vet serves up Roman-style eatery in the Hill Country

    Brandon Watson
    Dec 26, 2025 | 3:30 pm
    Bottega Salaria Fredericksburg
    Photo courtesy of Bottega Salaria
    Valerio Lombardozzi is opening Bottega Salaria in the former home of La Bergerie.

    Valerio Lombardozzi’s culinary career has taken him to the world’s finest kitchens, including restaurants owned by icons like Alain Ducasse, Giorgio Locatelli, and Joël Robuchon. In Houston, he led La Table and Tavola, where he earned a reputation for being one of the city's most engaging front of the house personalities.

    But his latest project might be his biggest accomplishment yet. The hospitality veteran is opening Bottega Salaria, a homey Italian osteria and artisan market, in the former home of La Bergerie at 312 E Austin St in his adopted home of Fredericksburg.

    Lombardozzi says the restaurant, expected to arrive in winter 2026, fills a gap in the Hill Country dining scene, but, more importantly, it's a reflection of his personal history and time spent working at his family’s restaurant in Rome.

    “[It’s about] where I grew up, how I grew up, and how I eat,” he shares.

    The three-concept experience is inspired by Italy’s Via Salaria, the ancient route Italians used to transport salt from the Adriatic Sea to Rome. The menu acts as a sort of travelogue, borrowing from the different cultures along the road, and the way village fishermen and shepherds ate.

    Lombardozzi is quick to say he didn’t want to open a chef-driven restaurant. Instead, the osteria will serve traditional Roman staples such as cacio e pepe, amatriciana, carbonara, saltimbocca with sage and prosciutto, and branzino carved tableside.

    “I was one of the last to be exposed to the old generation of professionals who knew how to carve elegantly for the guests,” he says.

    The adjacent bottega will stay open during restaurant hours, offering fresh pasta made on-site, house-made sauces, imported Italian pantry items, cheeses, salumi, breads, and biscotti. Patrons will be able to shop for individual items or put together custom gift baskets.

    Outdoors, La Fraschetteria will debut a new hospitality experience in the U.S. The self-guided experience invites diners to grab wine directly from garden shelves, gather a spread of meats, cheeses, bread, or pasta, and linger around long communal tables lit by string lights.

    Keeping the chit-chat going will be a thoughtful beverage program anchored by a primarily Italian wine list and imported beer. Lombardozzi says the cocktail menu might be a surprise, offering only gin and tonics, spritzes, and negronis. The latter has been made into a game where diners roll dice to determine the evening's combination of gin, vermouth, and bitters.

    After dinner, guests can select an amaro from a rolling cart, sip grappa and limoncello, or sip a neat whiskey.

    Lombardozzi shares that he wants Bottega Salaria to be just as comfortable for Fredericksburg locals as it is for destination travelers. Beyond daily service, Bottega Salaria plans community events such as garden wine nights with live music, Sunday movie nights, and hands-on cooking classes.

    The space is designed for ease with a warm palette combining olive green and pomegranate reds. The decor blends heritage and modernity, bringing in objects like antique mirrors, plates, custom-made lamps, and even old tablecloths and curtains for an Old World feel.

    "We’re not just opening a restaurant,” Lombardozzi says. “We’re creating a gathering place. A home for everyone who loves Italian food, culture, and the joy of sharing a meal with others.”

    italian cuisinewinefredericksburghill countryopeningsnews-you-can-eat
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