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    Chicago's Best Pizza Hits Houston

    Chicago's best pizza restaurant roars into Houston — and the early results are very promising

    Eric Sandler
    Dec 10, 2014 | 7:32 am

    World famous pizza restaurant Gino's East will open its first location outside of the Chicago area on Thursday in The Woodlands. With the Houston area buzzing about the imminent arrivial, I joined an invite-only friends and family preview. Amidst a quarter full restaurant of locals checking out the new arrival, our group of three sampled some of the menu items to answer the all important question: Is this pizza worth the 40-minute drive from downtown Houston?

    Based on two appetizers, a sandwich and two deep dish pizzas, I say yes. While I can't say how it compares to the Chicago original, Gino's already delivers a hearty, satisfying pie.

    We particularly enjoyed the signature Chicago fire that features a layer of spicy sausage and generous amount of roasted red peppers. The heat balances out the somewhat sweet tomato sauce that's generously ladled over the toppings. BBQ Brisket Za is designed to appeal to Texans, but we were split on the combination of sweet barbecue sauce with caramelized onions and tomato sauce.

    Due to that thickness, pizzas take 45 minutes to an hour to bake.

    In addition to being thicker than standard Italian pies, Gino's dough, which is made fresh at the restaurant each day and proofed in a pizza pan prior to baking, has a more crumbly texture than traditional Italian dough. The thick, doughy slices are incredibly filling; two each was our limit.

    Due to that thickness, pizzas take 45 minutes to an hour to bake. Best bet is to read the menu beforehand and select a favorite or two. Ordering them with your drinks will give you time to order and sample appetizers.

    Of the appetizers, the best were the spinach and mozzarella sticks followed by the crispy Brussels sprouts with bacon. Mozzarella sticks can be pretty bland, but the spinach adds a welcome additional component that complements the cheese and crispy batter. Showing that the kitchen is still finding its groove, calamari arrived room temperature. Given the amount of food we sampled, the signature brisket nachos would have to wait until another time.

    The interior is pretty standard pizza joint. A marquee with the restaurant's name in lights hangs over the bar. Wooden tables are covered with red and white checkered tableclothes. Large flatscreen TVs hang from walls and ceilings: Eight in the bar, four in each of the adjacent dining rooms. An all '80s soundtrack played along at a level loud enough to notice the songs but not so much as to intrude on conversation.

    Our server was still learning the fine points of the menu, but her enthusiasm and good humor compensated for any shortcomings. Having already gone through training, she was able to express likes and dislikes about specific dishes and make recommendations.

    A final verdict will have to wait until I have the chance to visit the restaurant when it's open and full of diners. Still, today shows that Gino's has a lot of potential.

    Chicago ex-pats and pizza fans alike will want to make the drive north to check out the newcomer.

    Chicago's best pizza restaurant is bringing plenty of buzz to its new Houston venture.

    Gino's East The Woodlands pizza
    Photo by Eric Sandler
    Chicago's best pizza restaurant is bringing plenty of buzz to its new Houston venture.
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    firing up Montrose

    New Houston seafood restaurant adds live-fire flair to Japanese flavors

    Eric Sandler
    Dec 3, 2025 | 10:02 am
    Casa Kenji restaurant
    Photo by Becca Wright
    Spanish sea bass, scallop crudo, nigiri, bluefin binchotan, and bluefin crudo.

    An ambitious new seafood restaurant is coming to Montrose next week. Casa Kenji will open on Tuesday, December 9.

    Located in the former Andiron space (3201 Allen Pkwy), Casa Kenji is the first Houston project for New Orleans restaurateur Malachi DuPre, a former LSU standout who played briefly in the NFL before establishing Kenji and Kenji Kazoku restaurants in New Orleans. Together with former LSU teammate John “B-John” Ballis and Houston chef Bigler “Biggie” Cruz, Casa Kenji will blend Latin and Japanese influences while also incorporating live-fire elements into the restaurant’s dishes. Cruz, whose resume includes a lengthy stint at Uchi as well as working at critically acclaimed Houston seafood restaurant Golfstrømmen, tells CultureMap that Casa Kenji’s approach is the first time he can be himself in the kitchen.

    “My perfect restaurant was always based on the live fire and sushi combination,” Cruz says. “My mom cooked with wood for my entire life. The live fire creates completely different flavors. The smoky flavors, the sear from the charcoal — they create a different type of memory for me.”

    The use of live fire techniques will permeate Casa Kenji’s menus in ways both big and small. For example, diners will be able to feast on prawns grilled directly on charcoal and served with yuzu chili garlic, or savor lightly seared Japanese wagyu tataki paired with mushrooms. Even raw dishes will benefit from the restaurant’s wood-burning grill and stove.

    “Every vegetable we peel, we make into an ash that’s a topping for the dishes. It adds a different layer of flavor,” Cruz says. Look for it in the scallop aguachile, among others.

    Even vegetables get a smoky component, as in a cabbage dish that’s braised with dashi and soy sauce before being roasted and served with an onion soubise that Cruz says he developed based on techniques he learned from Golfstrømmen chef Christopher Haatuft.

    “It’s rich, super savory, with smoky layers, and you get brightness from the shiso gremolata. I think it will be a signature dish for us,” the chef says.

    One change to the interior is the addition of a six-seat omakase counter that looks into the kitchen. Cruz promises those diners will have an even more elevated experience than the restaurant’s regular menu, including ingredients such as Japanese wagyu and premium fish flown in from Tokyo’s Toyosu fish market.

    Beyond its cuisine, Casa Kenji hopes to stand out with its spacious outdoor patio. Since very few Japanese-inspired restaurants in Houston offer outdoor seating, it should appeal to diners who want a little vitamin D along with their tuna crudo.

    “We’re proud to showcase the craft and creativity that defines Casa Kenji,” co-founders Cruz, Ballis, and DuPre said in a statement. “With chef Bigler Cruz at the helm — blending live-fire technique with the discipline of Japanese tradition — we’re equally honored and excited to share a unique concept that is truly rooted in passion, culture, and community.”

    Casa Kenji will be open for dinner Tuesday through Sunday beginning at 4 pm. Reservations are available on Resy.

    Casa Kenji restaurant

    Photo by Becca Wright

    Spanish sea bass, scallop crudo, nigiri, bluefin binchotan, and bluefin crudo.

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