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    White plates?

    Food fight: Critic Alison Cook banned from highly anticipated new restaurant

    Tyler Rudick
    Dec 1, 2011 | 10:21 am
    • Liberty Kitchen ground rules... no smoking and no Alison Cook.
      Photo via Liberty Kitchen/Facebook
    • Liberty Kitchen marks the newest venture for owners Lance Fegen and Lee Ellis,whose BRC Gastropub and Petite Sweets have enjoyed considerable local foodiebuzz.
      Photo by Sarah Rufca
    • Allison Hiromi was kicked out of Down House, by the way, not Alison Cook.
      Down House/Facebook, Allison Matsu/Facebook
    • Alison Cook?

    Walking up to Liberty Kitchen and Oyster Bar, customers are greeted with two stern warnings — no smoking and no Alison Cook.

    The highly-anticipated Heights restaurant marks the newest venture for owners Lance Fegen and Lee Ellis, whose BRC Gastropub and Petite Sweets have enjoyed considerable buzz in the local foodie community.

    Open only a week, Liberty Kitchen has yet to be reviewed by the noted Houston Chronicle food critic.

    On Friday, Cook discussed the ban with a mixture of confusion and pride, suspecting her lukewarm review of BRC in 2010 may have sparked the preemptive un-invitation. The "Warning: We use white plates" on the sign banning Cook further alludes to her review that suggested BRC serve its pimento cheese dip in ramekins rather than on white plates.

    "I'm a little nonplussed that Fegen seems to think I have it in for him," Cook wrote on her blog, noting that while she criticized BRC, she did praise its burger in her Burger Friday post. She also wrote a positive review for Fegen’s popular Glass Wall in 2006.

    The critic received a barrage of online commentary, ranging from supportive to nasty.

    "I've got to admit I'm amused to see my name on a restaurant door with a red slash through it," Cook wrote on her blog. "I mean, I was once hung in effigy at a restaurant banquet, and I felt strangely honored."

    One post mistook Cook for Allie Matsu (aka Allison Hiromi), whose late night tweets brought scandal to Down House this summer. The commenter admitted the mistake only to mention a 2010 incident in which the critic was asked to leave Jonathan's The Rub.

    Allison Hiromi declined to comment on the confusion with a Twitter post: "Thx CultureMap journalist, but I don't really want to make a statement or answer Qs regarding why @alisoncook or I got banned from a place."

    CultureMap spoke with Ellis, who confirmed the No Alison Cook sign, but said he was unable to give further details at this time. He promised to get back with us soon.

    Efforts to contact Cook, who in a long career has written for Texas Monthly, the Houston Press, Esquire, the New York Times Sunday magazine, Gourmet, Saveur, Food & Wine, House & Garden and Vogue, were unsuccessful. But she appears to be taking the sign and comments in stride.

    "I've got to admit I'm amused to see my name on a restaurant door with a red slash through it," she wrote on her blog. "I mean, I was once hung in effigy at a restaurant banquet, and I felt strangely honored."

    unspecified
    news/restaurants-bars

    COMING ATTRACTIONS

    San Antonio coffee shop brews up plans for third Houston café

    Brandon Watson
    Jun 12, 2026 | 3:04 pm
    Merit Coffee Co.
    Merit Coffee Co./ Facebook
    Merit Coffee Co. will open three Houston locations by the end of 2026.

    San Antonio’s acclaimed Merit Coffee is continuing its Houston expansion. After taking over a former Starbucks at 5115 Buffalo Speedway in July, the Texas chain will open two more Bayou City coffee shops in winter 2026.

    One of those two cafés, in the historic Swift Building in the Heights, was previously announced, but the chain has newly revealed that it will also debut a third shop at Greenside in Memorial City. Both are being developed by Houston’s Radom Capitol.

    Founded in 2009 as Local Coffee, the chain now has 14 locations in Austin, Dallas, and its San Antonio home base. The business has earned accolades in all of its markets, including a 2025 CultureMap Dallas Tastemaker Award for Best Coffee Shop.

    Merit’s beans, sourced from growers in Central/South America and Africa and roasted locally, might already be familiar to Houstonians who shop at H-E-B, Central Market, or Whole Foods Market. But soon the city’s coffee lovers will have access to an in-person Merit Coffee experience.

    "For years, we've dreamed about bringing Merit to Houston," said Bill Ellis, CEO of Merit Coffee, in a release. "Houston has one of the most exciting food and beverage cultures anywhere in the country, and we've been intentional about finding the right neighborhoods, partners, and opportunities to establish roots here."

    Merit takes pride in making sure each physical location reflects its neighborhood. The website includes line drawings of each café, which range from a 1900 stone house in Austin to a sleek glass storefront in Dallas.

    The menus are largely the same at each outpost. In addition to all the classic espresso drinks, Merit also serves matcha, hōjicha tea, refreshers, and playful creations like a latte made with raspberry purée and almond ricotta cold foam.

    Each city’s shops also partner with locally owned bakeries. All upcoming Houston locations will feature sweet and savory pastries from Houston’s Cake & Bacon.

    "Cake & Bacon embodies everything we love about Houston's culinary scene, and we're excited to showcase their incredible work,” said Ellis.

    Merit Coffee has not revealed the exact opening dates for any of its Houston locations. More details will be announced via social media later in the summer.

    houstoncoffeechainsopeningsnews-you-can-eatmemorial-city
    news/restaurants-bars
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