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    Arguing for Farm to Table

    What's in your refrigerator this fall? Let season and geography determine yourfood choices

    Sarah Beth Seifert
    Nov 6, 2011 | 5:00 pm
    • What’s in your refrigerator?
      Photo by Mofty
    • Apples are in season right now in Texas.
      Photo by Joel Luks
    • November will bring broccoli to farmers markets.
      Photo by Peter Barnes
    • City Hall Farmers Market
      Photo by Katya Horner/Slight Clutter Photography

    What’s in your refrigerator right now? Maybe yours looks like mine — a couple of drawers of produce along with yogurt, milk, juice, chicken, the leftovers from Saturday night’s dinner out and a bottle of wine. The basics. Maybe you’re like me and you stock your refrigerator each week with the same produce you like best — greens and vegetables for your favorite salads, berries to go in your cereal, fruits to snack on at work.

    But this autumn, I am challenging myself to take a different approach. The goal: to allow the season and geography — instead of my whims — to inform my produce choices. To focus my diet on what is being grown in and around Houston this fall. Of course, this is nothing new.

    The “locavore/slow food/farm-to-table” (the list goes on) family of concepts has been gaining momentum for several years, expanding far beyond what The New York Times in 2007 described as a “growing subculture.”

    Eating seasonally and locally has become a more accessible practice across communities and ages. According to the U.S. Department of Agriculture, the number of registered farmers’ markets totaled 7,175 nationwide in mid 2011, a 17 percent jump from 2010. Farm to School programs operate in almost 10,000 school cafeterias. So what is the big deal about eating seasonally and locally?

    Eating seasonally and locally benefits our bodies, our environment, our communities and our taste buds. There are some philosophical underpinnings that provide a helpful context for considering the topic, but here I will stick to the basics. (To learn more, read Barbara Kingsolver’s Animal, Vegetable, Miracle, Gary Paul Nabhan’s Come Home to Eat or Alisa Smith and J.B. MacKinnon’s Plenty.)

    Health benefits

    Peak seasons of fruits and vegetables correspond with our nutritional needs throughout the year. In summer, we are hot and often dehydrated, so we crave cool, water-heavy foods like cucumbers, watermelon and nectarines. Late autumn and winter are peak seasons for vegetables that take the longest to grow — which also take the longest for our bodies to digest. The digestion process required for vegetables such as squash, sweet potatoes and turnips produces heat within our bodies that we need during the cooler months.

    Environmental benefits

    It is important to consider “food miles,” or how far food travels from farms to our tables at home. According to a 2007 analysis of California air quality by the National Resource Defense Council, “almost 250,000 tons of global warming gases released were attributable to imports of food products — the equivalent amount of pollution produced by 40,000 vehicles on the road.” By eating locally and reducing food miles, we ease the environmental impact of shipping food.

    Community benefits

    Gathering to purchase food grown by nearby farmers builds a sense of community among neighbors and between those living in urban and rural areas. With the middleman eliminated, money from your local food purchases directly benefits local farmers who grow your vegetables and gives you the chance to offer feedback to the farmer about your purchases.

    Taste bud benefits

    Local, seasonal food tastes better. In Alice Waters’ words, “You can cook very simply and the food will be extraordinary because it tastes like what it is…Food tastes naturally delicious when it has been grown with care, harvested at the right moment, and brought to us immediately, direct from the producer.”

    What is in season right now in Texas? Here is what farmers are growing in Texas this fall, according to the Texas Department of Agriculture:

    November: apples, cantaloupes, greens, oranges, sweet potatoes, beets, carrots, herbs, bell peppers, turnips, broccoli, cucumbers, honeydew, spinach, watermelon, cabbage, grapefruit, mushrooms and squash.

    Purchase local and seasonal food at your neighborhood farmers' market. Visit houstongreenscene.org for a complete listing of those in the area, or join a Community Supported Agriculture program (CSA) where you can purchase a "share" from a local farm and receive regular deliveries of the produce the farm is growing. Click here for a list of nearby CSAs.

    With summer vacations behind us, school semesters in full swing, cooler weather on its way and holidays ahead, it is a fitting time to assess the contents of our refrigerators. Consider joining me in the challenge to stock them with local and seasonal fare.

    unspecifiedseries568664011
    news/restaurants-bars
    series/good-eats-2011

    Coming soon to Fredericksburg

    Houston restaurant vet serves up Roman-style eatery in the Hill Country

    Brandon Watson
    Dec 26, 2025 | 3:30 pm
    Bottega Salaria Fredericksburg
    Photo courtesy of Bottega Salaria
    Valerio Lombardozzi is opening Bottega Salaria in the former home of La Bergerie.

    Valerio Lombardozzi’s culinary career has taken him to the world’s finest kitchens, including restaurants owned by icons like Alain Ducasse, Giorgio Locatelli, and Joël Robuchon. In Houston, he led La Table and Tavola, where he earned a reputation for being one of the city's most engaging front of the house personalities.

    But his latest project might be his biggest accomplishment yet. The hospitality veteran is opening Bottega Salaria, a homey Italian osteria and artisan market, in the former home of La Bergerie at 312 E Austin St in his adopted home of Fredericksburg.

    Lombardozzi says the restaurant, expected to arrive in winter 2026, fills a gap in the Hill Country dining scene, but, more importantly, it's a reflection of his personal history and time spent working at his family’s restaurant in Rome.

    “[It’s about] where I grew up, how I grew up, and how I eat,” he shares.

    The three-concept experience is inspired by Italy’s Via Salaria, the ancient route Italians used to transport salt from the Adriatic Sea to Rome. The menu acts as a sort of travelogue, borrowing from the different cultures along the road, and the way village fishermen and shepherds ate.

    Lombardozzi is quick to say he didn’t want to open a chef-driven restaurant. Instead, the osteria will serve traditional Roman staples such as cacio e pepe, amatriciana, carbonara, saltimbocca with sage and prosciutto, and branzino carved tableside.

    “I was one of the last to be exposed to the old generation of professionals who knew how to carve elegantly for the guests,” he says.

    The adjacent bottega will stay open during restaurant hours, offering fresh pasta made on-site, house-made sauces, imported Italian pantry items, cheeses, salumi, breads, and biscotti. Patrons will be able to shop for individual items or put together custom gift baskets.

    Outdoors, La Fraschetteria will debut a new hospitality experience in the U.S. The self-guided experience invites diners to grab wine directly from garden shelves, gather a spread of meats, cheeses, bread, or pasta, and linger around long communal tables lit by string lights.

    Keeping the chit-chat going will be a thoughtful beverage program anchored by a primarily Italian wine list and imported beer. Lombardozzi says the cocktail menu might be a surprise, offering only gin and tonics, spritzes, and negronis. The latter has been made into a game where diners roll dice to determine the evening's combination of gin, vermouth, and bitters.

    After dinner, guests can select an amaro from a rolling cart, sip grappa and limoncello, or sip a neat whiskey.

    Lombardozzi shares that he wants Bottega Salaria to be just as comfortable for Fredericksburg locals as it is for destination travelers. Beyond daily service, Bottega Salaria plans community events such as garden wine nights with live music, Sunday movie nights, and hands-on cooking classes.

    The space is designed for ease with a warm palette combining olive green and pomegranate reds. The decor blends heritage and modernity, bringing in objects like antique mirrors, plates, custom-made lamps, and even old tablecloths and curtains for an Old World feel.

    "We’re not just opening a restaurant,” Lombardozzi says. “We’re creating a gathering place. A home for everyone who loves Italian food, culture, and the joy of sharing a meal with others.”

    italian cuisinewinefredericksburghill countryopeningsnews-you-can-eat
    news/restaurants-bars
    series/good-eats-2011

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