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    Arguing for Farm to Table

    What's in your refrigerator this fall? Let season and geography determine yourfood choices

    Sarah Beth Seifert
    Nov 6, 2011 | 5:00 pm
    • What’s in your refrigerator?
      Photo by Mofty
    • Apples are in season right now in Texas.
      Photo by Joel Luks
    • November will bring broccoli to farmers markets.
      Photo by Peter Barnes
    • City Hall Farmers Market
      Photo by Katya Horner/Slight Clutter Photography

    What’s in your refrigerator right now? Maybe yours looks like mine — a couple of drawers of produce along with yogurt, milk, juice, chicken, the leftovers from Saturday night’s dinner out and a bottle of wine. The basics. Maybe you’re like me and you stock your refrigerator each week with the same produce you like best — greens and vegetables for your favorite salads, berries to go in your cereal, fruits to snack on at work.

    But this autumn, I am challenging myself to take a different approach. The goal: to allow the season and geography — instead of my whims — to inform my produce choices. To focus my diet on what is being grown in and around Houston this fall. Of course, this is nothing new.

    The “locavore/slow food/farm-to-table” (the list goes on) family of concepts has been gaining momentum for several years, expanding far beyond what The New York Times in 2007 described as a “growing subculture.”

    Eating seasonally and locally has become a more accessible practice across communities and ages. According to the U.S. Department of Agriculture, the number of registered farmers’ markets totaled 7,175 nationwide in mid 2011, a 17 percent jump from 2010. Farm to School programs operate in almost 10,000 school cafeterias. So what is the big deal about eating seasonally and locally?

    Eating seasonally and locally benefits our bodies, our environment, our communities and our taste buds. There are some philosophical underpinnings that provide a helpful context for considering the topic, but here I will stick to the basics. (To learn more, read Barbara Kingsolver’s Animal, Vegetable, Miracle, Gary Paul Nabhan’s Come Home to Eat or Alisa Smith and J.B. MacKinnon’s Plenty.)

    Health benefits

    Peak seasons of fruits and vegetables correspond with our nutritional needs throughout the year. In summer, we are hot and often dehydrated, so we crave cool, water-heavy foods like cucumbers, watermelon and nectarines. Late autumn and winter are peak seasons for vegetables that take the longest to grow — which also take the longest for our bodies to digest. The digestion process required for vegetables such as squash, sweet potatoes and turnips produces heat within our bodies that we need during the cooler months.

    Environmental benefits

    It is important to consider “food miles,” or how far food travels from farms to our tables at home. According to a 2007 analysis of California air quality by the National Resource Defense Council, “almost 250,000 tons of global warming gases released were attributable to imports of food products — the equivalent amount of pollution produced by 40,000 vehicles on the road.” By eating locally and reducing food miles, we ease the environmental impact of shipping food.

    Community benefits

    Gathering to purchase food grown by nearby farmers builds a sense of community among neighbors and between those living in urban and rural areas. With the middleman eliminated, money from your local food purchases directly benefits local farmers who grow your vegetables and gives you the chance to offer feedback to the farmer about your purchases.

    Taste bud benefits

    Local, seasonal food tastes better. In Alice Waters’ words, “You can cook very simply and the food will be extraordinary because it tastes like what it is…Food tastes naturally delicious when it has been grown with care, harvested at the right moment, and brought to us immediately, direct from the producer.”

    What is in season right now in Texas? Here is what farmers are growing in Texas this fall, according to the Texas Department of Agriculture:

    November: apples, cantaloupes, greens, oranges, sweet potatoes, beets, carrots, herbs, bell peppers, turnips, broccoli, cucumbers, honeydew, spinach, watermelon, cabbage, grapefruit, mushrooms and squash.

    Purchase local and seasonal food at your neighborhood farmers' market. Visit houstongreenscene.org for a complete listing of those in the area, or join a Community Supported Agriculture program (CSA) where you can purchase a "share" from a local farm and receive regular deliveries of the produce the farm is growing. Click here for a list of nearby CSAs.

    With summer vacations behind us, school semesters in full swing, cooler weather on its way and holidays ahead, it is a fitting time to assess the contents of our refrigerators. Consider joining me in the challenge to stock them with local and seasonal fare.

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    say hey to Hypsi

    Houston chef's hip new Italian restaurant now open in Heights hotel

    Eric Sandler
    Dec 4, 2025 | 5:05 pm
    Hypsi restaurant food spread
    Photo by Julie Soefer
    Hypsi serves pasta and other Itaian-inspired dishes.

    A new Italian restaurant is now open in the Heights. Located within the newly opened Hotel Daphne, Hypsi marks chef Terrence Gallivan’s return to professional cooking in Houston.

    Known for his time as the co-execuive chef of The Pass and Provisions and owner of ElRo Pizza and Crudo, Gallivan brings strong culinary credentials to Hypsi. Although he isn’t known explicitly for Italian fare, he has significant experience making pizza, pasts, and other Italian-inspired dishes. After closing ElRo last year, the chef says that working for Bunkhouse Hotels, the Austin-based company that operates the Daphne, had a lot of appeal.

    “My wife and I always made it a point to stop at their places whenever we’re in Austin. They know how to make cool stuff,” Gallivan says.

    Hypsi’s menu includes updated takes on Italian fare begins with starters such as lamb meatballs, black truffle arancini, and Caesar salad. A selection of house-made pastas include squid ink radiatori with rock shrimp, butternut squash tortellini, and lumache with vodka sauce that gets a little heat from nduja. Entree choices include a roast chicken, pork Milanese, and roasted snapper with salsa verde.

    The restaurant is also open for breakfast during the week and brunch on the weekends with items such as a panatone waffle, frittata, and breakfast sandwich. Lunch will follow in January.

    “We took inspiration from tradition without being traditional,” Gallivan says. Later, he adds, “For me, it’s about balance. You try to please everybody. I want my mom to enjoy herself as much as a 25-year-old foodie. It’s important to hit as many marks as you can.”

    One of the restaurant’s signatures will be the mozzarella cart that rolls through its dining room. Gallivan says he’s sourcing a mix of both American and imported Italian cheeses that will rotate every week or two. The cheese is served with a range of pickled fruit and vegetables, olive oil, aged balsamic vinegar, focaccia, and more. Of course, seeing a cart immediately grabs diners’ attention, making them want whatever is on offer.

    “That’s the beauty of carts,” Gallivan says. “It’s a fun thing to do. I think sometimes we get a little too serious in restaurants. It’s supposed to be fun. People are here to enjoy themselves.”

    All that eating and drinking takes place in a dining room that’s inspired by Prohibition-era speakeasies, according to press materials. Details include blueberry lava stone on the bar, vintage velvet chairs, and custom Carimate dining chairs by Vico Magistretti. An outdoor patio features brick pavers, mosaic tables, and sculptures.

    Hypsi restaurant food spread

    Photo by Julie Soefer

    Hypsi serves pasta and other Itaian-inspired dishes.

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