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    What's Eric Eating Episode 116

    Dishing with The Annie Cafe's dream team, plus a whole new Benjy's

    CultureMap Staff
    Oct 17, 2019 | 3:01 pm

    On this week's episode of "What's Eric Eating," owner Ben Berg, chef-partner Robert Del Grande, and operating partner Sam Governale join CultureMap food editor Eric Sandler to discuss The Annie Café & Bar, their refreshed take on legendary Houston restaurant Café Annie. Governale also briefly discusses some of the changes he's made at Emmaline, his stylish neighborhood restaurant.

     

     

     

    Berg made a number of changes to the space, but none are more dramatic than the restaurant's new, oval-shaped bar. To facilitate that change, he relocated the stairs that lead to the second-floor space. That opened up room to create a separate concept on the first floor. Known as Turner's, after Berg's middle name, the restaurant will have its own menu and entrance with a more masculine aesthetic than The Annie. Berg also shares a hilarious story about how he found the baby grand piano that will be in Turner's.

     

    Part of the justification for the new name is to change the way people perceive the restaurant. Sandler notes that he associates Cafe Annie with a restaurant his parents dined at for anniversaries and special occasions, and Berg notes that the addition of more residential towers near Post Oak has changed the area.

     

    "That's what lured me to the project," Governale says. "There's this residential influx that's happening. Similar to the whole concept at Emmaline with the neighborhood feel, we want that at Annie, and I don't think it's ever been that. I think it's been this destination restaurant, and we really want it to feel like it's home to someone who lives around it."

     

    Prior to the interview, Fluff Bake Bar owner Rebecca Masson joins Sandler to discuss the news of the week. Their topics include the sudden closure of Houston's on Westheimer; the new tenants coming to Rice Village food hall Politan Row; Kin Dee, a new Thai restaurant opening next year in The Heights; and Anthony Calleo's plans to serve pizza at Rudyard's Pub.

     

    In the restaurant of the week segment, Sandler and Masson share their experience at Benjy's. The Rice Village restaurant recently revealed an updated interior and a new menu created by chef Mike Potowski and Seth Siegel Gardner, formerly one of the co-executive chefs of The Pass & Provisions. Masson also shares some of her experiences appearing on an upcoming episode of "Radio Cherry Bombe," the national podcast that recently recorded an episode in Houston.

     

    ---

     

     Subscribe to "What's Eric Eating" on Apple podcasts, Google Play, or Spotify. Listen to it Saturday at 3 pm on ESPN 97.5.

    Robert Del Grande, Ben Berg, and Sam Governale are this week's guests.

    Annie Cafe Robert Del Grande Ben Berg Sam Governale
      
    Courtesy of The Annie Café
    Robert Del Grande, Ben Berg, and Sam Governale are this week's guests.
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    welcome to paradise

    Veteran Houston bartender shakes up the Heights with new tropical bar

    Eric Sandler
    Jul 8, 2025 | 1:12 pm
    Berwick's Birds of Paradise bar exterior
    Photo by Eric Sandler
    Berwick's Birds of Paradise opened on July 4.

    The woman behind your favorite bartender’s favorite bar has quietly opened a new cocktail spot in the Heights. Called Berwick’s Birds of Paradise, it’s the latest project from Double Trouble owner Robin Berwick.

    Berwick tells CultureMap that she began looking for a new project about a year ago. Double Trouble, a coffee and cocktail bar that opened in late 2011, no longer required her full attention. She found an ideal space with the former La Coqueta at 2020 Studewood Street, a standalone building in a prime area of the Heights. Similar to Double Trouble, Berwick took inspiration from tropical destinations for BBOP's (pronounced “be bop”) drinks and design — with some additional flair from the only kind of bar she’s never worked at.

    “I might be embarrassed if you print this, but it’s the truth. I have bartended in just about every category of bar: restaurant bar, nightclub, dance club, strip club, dive bar, and Anvil and Poison Girl, the cocktail bars that people knew me from before Double Trouble,” she says.

    “The only place I didn’t work that I wanted to was a resort hotel bar. I never want to be responsible for running a hotel, but I wanted to open a bar that felt like it was once attached to a hotel.”

    Patrons will notice a screen printed portrait of a woman hanging on one of the bar’s walls. Berwick has decided that it depicts the mythical owner of the non-existent hotel that BBOP is attached to.

    “I don’t know her name, but she’s a little spooky and she’s blue. I just look at her and ask her what would she do,” Berwick says.

    Berwick worked with Jarred Pruitt and Eli Ashby at Houston builder Pruitt Structures to renovate the space with everything from new plumbing and HVAC systems to a vintage-inspired tile floor and an all-new ceiling treatment. The costs ran a little higher than expected, but Berwick cites her “fantastic investors” who raised the money required to build the bar she envisioned.

     Berwick's Birds of Paradise bar interior The building received a comprehensive renovation to become Berwick's Birds of Paraidse.Photo by Eric Sandler

    The cocktail menu takes a similarly tropical (not to be confused with tiki) theme. For example, the bar’s frozen cocktail is called La Bruha, after a nickname Berwick received from the tradesmen who helped renovate the bar. “It’s a riff on an El Diablo,” she explains, “Tequila, fresh lime juice, spicy ginger beer, habanero tincture, topped with a layer of elderberry liqueur. The ginger surprises people. It’s got a little punch to it.”

    Similarly, the Crocodile Tears Martini gets a little island flavor courtesy of Strange Water, a coconut water created by former Houstonian Yael Vengroff, and Grey Goose Citra vodka. “Everybody’s been saying it’s ‘dangerously drinkable,’” Berwick adds.

    BBOP’s tidy food menu is overseen by veteran Houston chef Jacob Pate, whose resume includes Coltivare, Good Dog Houston, and the recently-closed Savoir. Current offerings include chicken wings, a smash burger, and a Bikini Sandwich — similar to a Cubano, Pate gives the traditional Catalan-inspired pressed ham and cheese sandwich a Houston twist courtesy of muffaletta compound butter and tomato condiment.

    “On the horizon is a house made sausage dog that I’m excited about,” Pate writes in an email. “At Savoir, we had some fun butchery projects that I would like to build upon where it makes sense. Beyond that, the first priority is figuring out how it all fits in our small kitchen and having fun.”

    In addition to food and drinks, Berwick is working with Heights cigar bar Nice Ash to stock a humidor for BBOP. Patrons will be able to smoke a cigar on the bar’s patio. Because people will be smoking (among other reasons), BBOP is strictly 21-plus.

    The bar opened quietly on July 4. So far, its customers has been a mix of curious neighbors, Double Trouble regulars, and Berwick’s friends in the service industry. After spending so much time on renovations, she says she’s happy to focus on operating her bar.

    “I had been used to this high stress level, waiting for the bottom to drop out [during the renovations],” she says. “When the first guests came in, I relaxed. We know how to make drinks.”

    Currently, the bar is open Wednesday-Sunday from 4pm - midnight. Days of service and hours of operation will expand once additional employees have been hired.

    Berwick's Birds of Paradise bar exterior
      
    Photo by Eric Sandler
    Berwick's Birds of Paradise opened on July 4.
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