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    Introducing Shun

    Veteran chef serves up slice of Japan in River Oaks with new restaurant

    Eric Sandler
    Oct 12, 2018 | 9:07 am

    Houston offers any number of Japanese restaurants, but for the most part they can be grouped into either sushi spots (of wildly varying quality) or ramen joints (of wildly varying quality). One chef wants to bring something new to the city.

    Meet Naoki Yoshida. A native Texan, Yoshida grew up in the restaurant business courtesy of his family’s ownership of popular Montrose sushi restaurant Nippon. Now, he’s going off on his own to open Shun Japanese Kitchen, which will offer a fresh perspective on the country’s cuisine when it opens on Tuesday, October 16.

    “A lot of Japanese restaurants are not owned by Japanese people. They’re not properly executed Japanese food from my perspective,” Yoshida tells CultureMap. “I want to educate Houston on what Japanese cuisine can and should be.”

    Early media reports touted Shun as an izakaya, and Yoshia boasted that he wanted to open Houston’s first proper version of the Japanese pub — which would come as news to anyone who’s eaten at Tiger Den.

    “When I officially signed a contract, my concept was going to be izakaya,” Yoshida explains. “As I’ve been building my team, I realized I wanted to do something different. I saw the second generation aspect as a way to reintroduce Japanese cuisine.”

    At Shun, “second generation” means that Yoshida’s cuisine takes its inspiration from both his work at Nippon and his time cooking at restaurants in Miami, Chicago, and Los Angeles. Dishes utilize ingredients that are either from Texas or from Japan. In addition, the restaurant will make all of its own sauces, even sriracha.

    “I’ve also learned a lot of authentic recipes from working in Japan,” Yoshida says. “I’m using those techniques and methods and flavors to add a little more flavor.”

    For example, instead of standard gyoza, the chef has created dumplings filled with carnitas. Sea urchin gets a whiff of pecan smoke. Tako dogs feature freshly made octopus sausage.

    One particularly intriguing dish is the Samurai Platter. Designed to feed four people, allows diners to make their own handrolls from a selection of salmon, yellowtail, and tuna plus vegetables and sauces.

    “In Japan, we do a lot of things that are more hands on where people make it themselves,” Yoshida says. “I wanted to implement that for Houston. I thought it would be fun where people get an assortment of fish and vegetables. They interact with the food and all the ingredients are right in front of them.”

    For now, the restaurant will be BYOB. Once it receives a liquor license, Shun will unleash a full menu of cocktails created by consultant Aki Hagio (Sanctuari Bar at Triniti, Bad News Bar). Look for a large sake selection along with a strong range of Japanese beer and whisky.

    Shun’s space at 2802 S. Shepherd Dr. has been home to any number of failed concepts over the years. Whether this one sticks remains to be seen, but Yoshida’s experience, passion, and quality of ingredients should help. Hopefully, Houston is ready for a fresh take on Japanese fare.

    ---

    Shun Japanese Kitchen; 2802 S. Shepherd Dr.; 832-409-5888; Dinner Tuesday-Saturday from 4 pm to 10 pm and Sunday from 4 pm to 9 pm; brunch Saturday and Sunday from 11 am to 2 pm.

    Roll your own handrolls with the Samurai platter.

    Shun Japanese Samurai Warrior handroll platter
      
    Photo by Kirsten Gilliam
    Roll your own handrolls with the Samurai platter.
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    one last squeeze

    Ben Berg's New York-inspired, fancy burger joint will soon shutter

    Eric Sandler
    May 21, 2025 | 5:16 pm
    BB Lemon exterior
    Photo by Leah Wilson
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    The original location of Ben Berg’s fancy burger joint will soon serve its last meal. B.B. Lemon on Washington Avenue will close after service on Sunday, June 1, the restaurant announced on social media.

    In response to CultureMap’s request for comment about the decision, a representative provided a statement that reads in part:

    “It is never an easy decision to close a restaurant,” Berg said. “The love Houston has shown B.B. Lemon-Washington over the years is what made it such a special place. Thank you for making us part of your everyday moments and life celebrations.”

    The statement continues that the restaurant is “no longer part of our strategic plan,” referring to Berg’s company, Berg Hospitality Group. However, the location of B.B Lemon that opened last year in the downtown tunnels will remain open.

    Open since late 2018, B.B. Lemon takes inspiration from iconic New York City restaurant JG Melon, including its signature green-and-white checked tablecloths. Thanks to a spacious patio and a lively atmosphere, B.B. Lemon soon found favor with area residents and downtown office workers, who made it a happy hour favorite.

    Like its decor, B.B. Lemon’s menu also takes inspiration from the East Coast. In addition to a diner-style, wagyu cheeseburger, the restaurant serves an array of comfort food that includes fish and chips, a lobster roll, and blue crab beignets.

    Berg’s decision to close B.B. Lemon follows last year’s closure of Benny Chows, its New York-inspired Chinese American restaurant. In January, the company closed NoPo Cafe to make way for a new location of Bagel Bob’s HTX.

    The group also opened three new concepts in 2024: live fire steakhouse Prime 131, retro diner Buttermilk Baby, and upscale steakhouse Turner’s Cut. It will open a second location of Buttermilk Baby in Sugar Land this summer.

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