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    Introducing Shun

    Veteran chef serves up slice of Japan in River Oaks with new restaurant

    Eric Sandler
    Oct 12, 2018 | 9:07 am

    Houston offers any number of Japanese restaurants, but for the most part they can be grouped into either sushi spots (of wildly varying quality) or ramen joints (of wildly varying quality). One chef wants to bring something new to the city.

    Meet Naoki Yoshida. A native Texan, Yoshida grew up in the restaurant business courtesy of his family’s ownership of popular Montrose sushi restaurant Nippon. Now, he’s going off on his own to open Shun Japanese Kitchen, which will offer a fresh perspective on the country’s cuisine when it opens on Tuesday, October 16.

    “A lot of Japanese restaurants are not owned by Japanese people. They’re not properly executed Japanese food from my perspective,” Yoshida tells CultureMap. “I want to educate Houston on what Japanese cuisine can and should be.”

    Early media reports touted Shun as an izakaya, and Yoshia boasted that he wanted to open Houston’s first proper version of the Japanese pub — which would come as news to anyone who’s eaten at Tiger Den.

    “When I officially signed a contract, my concept was going to be izakaya,” Yoshida explains. “As I’ve been building my team, I realized I wanted to do something different. I saw the second generation aspect as a way to reintroduce Japanese cuisine.”

    At Shun, “second generation” means that Yoshida’s cuisine takes its inspiration from both his work at Nippon and his time cooking at restaurants in Miami, Chicago, and Los Angeles. Dishes utilize ingredients that are either from Texas or from Japan. In addition, the restaurant will make all of its own sauces, even sriracha.

    “I’ve also learned a lot of authentic recipes from working in Japan,” Yoshida says. “I’m using those techniques and methods and flavors to add a little more flavor.”

    For example, instead of standard gyoza, the chef has created dumplings filled with carnitas. Sea urchin gets a whiff of pecan smoke. Tako dogs feature freshly made octopus sausage.

    One particularly intriguing dish is the Samurai Platter. Designed to feed four people, allows diners to make their own handrolls from a selection of salmon, yellowtail, and tuna plus vegetables and sauces.

    “In Japan, we do a lot of things that are more hands on where people make it themselves,” Yoshida says. “I wanted to implement that for Houston. I thought it would be fun where people get an assortment of fish and vegetables. They interact with the food and all the ingredients are right in front of them.”

    For now, the restaurant will be BYOB. Once it receives a liquor license, Shun will unleash a full menu of cocktails created by consultant Aki Hagio (Sanctuari Bar at Triniti, Bad News Bar). Look for a large sake selection along with a strong range of Japanese beer and whisky.

    Shun’s space at 2802 S. Shepherd Dr. has been home to any number of failed concepts over the years. Whether this one sticks remains to be seen, but Yoshida’s experience, passion, and quality of ingredients should help. Hopefully, Houston is ready for a fresh take on Japanese fare.

    ---

    Shun Japanese Kitchen; 2802 S. Shepherd Dr.; 832-409-5888; Dinner Tuesday-Saturday from 4 pm to 10 pm and Sunday from 4 pm to 9 pm; brunch Saturday and Sunday from 11 am to 2 pm.

    Roll your own handrolls with the Samurai platter.

    Shun Japanese Samurai Warrior handroll platter
    Photo by Kirsten Gilliam
    Roll your own handrolls with the Samurai platter.
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    What's up, Doc?

    Houston's new retro-styled jazz supper club sets opening date

    Eric Sandler
    Nov 4, 2025 | 10:12 am
    Doc's Houston jazz club marquee
    Photo by Matthew Casby
    Doc's Houston opens November 15.

    Brent “Doc” Watkins has a very specific reference for Doc’s Houston, his new jazz supper club that’s opening November 15 in the historic Tower Theater in Montrose.

    “I ask them if they’ve seen the movie Goodfellas,” Watkins tells CultureMap. “If they have, there's that famous scene where Ray Liotta takes his girlfriend to the supper club. They walk through the secret entrance and go in through the kitchen. They bring out a special table with the white tablecloth and they sit down and the show starts.”



    The very famous scene captures the spirit of what Watkins wants to create at Doc’s Houston — an intimate venue serving classic American fare and showcasing live music in genres such as jazz, R&B, soul, and the blues. It’s a formula that Watkins developed at Jazz, TX, his original jazz supper club that’s part of San Antonio’s Pearl District since 2016. He says Houston was always a logical choice to expand the concept.

    “Doing a proper jazz supper club, there wasn’t anything like that in Houston 10 years ago, and there wasn’t anything like that now until Doc’s,” Watkins says.

    Let’s start with the jazz part first. Doc’s will host live music Tuesday through Saturday in a variety of genres. Artistic director Graeme Franci, who, like Watkins, holds a doctorate in music from the University of Texas, is a Houstonian with a deep knowledge of the local music scene. He’s been reaching out to musicians and booking them to play Doc’s. In addition to local acts, the venue will host national touring acts — Tony Danza recently played San Antonio — and as many as 30 performances by Watkins himself.

    From his perspective, Doc’s provides an essential space for friends and neighbors to connect during a shared experience.

    “We aren’t inventing a brand new concept. We’re reviving something that had been lost,” Watkins explains. Later, he adds, “These are really essential spaces. It’s a very ancient tradition to gather as smaller groups of people for a meal and some music. It’s a very timeless thing. There was a blip on the radar where we lost these rooms for about a generation.”

    In terms of the food, chef Jose Avila’s menu is built around classic supper club fare such as steaks, seafood, and pastas. Specific dishes include grilled octopus, short rib empanadas, pork belly chicharron paella, coq au vin, and Chateaubriand that will be carved to order tableside.

    “We’ve got a massive kitchen. We’ve got the ability to do a big menu and do it right,” Watkins says. “You can’t be all things to all people, but we’ll get pretty damn close.”

    Doc's Houston jazz club staff Watkins has assembled an experience team to lead Doc's Houston.Courtesy of Doc's Houston

    The Tower Theater has had a number of lives. Most recently home to Acme Oyster House and El Real Tex-Mex Cafe, it’s also been a movie theater and a video store, among other iterations. To turn it into Doc’s, Watkins and his team added all-new lighting and sound, built a stage, and added a wraparound balcony.

    “When we found it, it was pretty wonky. The orientation was all wrong,” Watkins says. “We decided to go big and do it right. That balcony is new, but it looks like it’s always been that way. It’s how the space needs to be and wants to be, even though for 100 years it did not have a full wraparound balcony.”

    Reservations and tickets will be available via the Doc’s website in the coming days. Memberships will be available that come with perks such as preferred seating and advance access.

    “I hope we’re around for a very long time,” Watkins says. “I think we’ve set ourselves up to be around for a very long time. We’ve got all the ingredients that go into success. Now we just have to execute.”

    Doc's Houston jazz club marquee

    Photo by Matthew Casby

    Doc's Houston opens November 15.

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