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    Used to be a Hakeem favorite

    Mandola's Liquor Store closing after 38 years in business as original RaginCajun expands

    Caroline Gallay
    Oct 12, 2011 | 2:44 pm
    • Ragin Cajun, with Mandola's Liquor Store to the far left
      Photo by hermieb
    • Mandola's Liquor Store
      Photo via MerchantCircle.com

    It's a sad day for Houston's Afton Oaks residents.

    After almost 40 years in operation, Mandola's Liquor Store is closing Saturday. But there is a sweetness to the bitter news — owner Luke Mandola, Sr. tells CultureMap that construction will begin Nov. 1 to expand the original Ragin Cajun, located next door at 4302 Richmond, into the newly freed-up space. (The Mandolas also own Ragin Cajun.)

    A native Houstonian, Mandola opened Mandola's Warehouse Liquor almost immediately upon graduating from Southwestern Louisiana, now the University of Louisiana at Lafayette. He had run a restaurant in college called French Quarter Poboys and was equally suited to run a liquor store — he was also one of the first bartenders at Lizzard's Pub, then called the 1800 Club and located at West Belfort at 610, where he had once famously tended bar in a tuxedo after attending a friend's wedding.

    We sat down with Mandola (cousin to those other Mandolas) to chat about catering plans, Cajun cuisine and some of his more famous customers.

    CultureMap: How long have you been in business?

    Luke Mandola: Since 1973. The liquor store predates the Ragin Cajun.

    CM: Any big plans to commemorate the closing?

    LM: Not really. Just to continue moving forward with the next chapter with Luke, Jr. and Dominic, my two eldest sons. [Laughs] I’m going to lock the door and open up a bottle of champagne.

    CM: What has customer response to news of your closing been like?

    LM: I’m going to disappoint a lot of people. We've had a lot of regulars, but then again we've had a lot of everybody. There weren't that many liquor stores when we opened; at the time it was a big little city.

    CM: Do you have any regulars that have been coming in since the beginning?

    LM: I’ve had regular customers, I’ve had drunk customers, I’ve had limo people — every time a limo pulled up I used to say, “Let me go see if Frank Sinatra is in there,” even after he was gone.

    CM: Anybody famous?

    LM: Beyoncé eats next door at the Ragin Cajun, the Astros come by, Hakeem [Olajuwon] and the Rockets used to come by when they played at the Summit. Flavor Flav. The musicians’ people used to come here when they played concerts at the Summit to fill rider requests.

    Just the other day Steve [Tyrell - another Mandola cousin] was in here with the guy from America’s Got Talent, who’s cutting an album in town.

    CM: Are you sad to be closing?

    LM: We’ve had the good, the bad and the ugly, but way more good.

    CM: Any crazy stories from over the years that are fit for print?

    LM: We’ve had some stag parties where we’ve had to close the blinds and paper the windows.

    CM: Tell us a little about your plans for expansion.

    LM: We’re going to bust out the separating wall and have a big party room with a second bar and a bigger catering facility. We’ll have bands out there; people can reserve the space and bring their own bands.

    Part of the purpose of the expansion is expanding our catering capacity.

    CM: When will construction be complete?

    LM: We’re shooting to be finished Feb. 1 to be ready for Mardi Gras and for crawfish season.

    unspecified
    news/restaurants-bars

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    What's Eric Eating Episodes 523 and 524

    Acclaimed Austin duo dish on their wine-obsessed neighborhood restaurant

    CultureMap Staff
    Jan 16, 2026 | 1:08 pm
    Birdie's Arjav Ezekiel Tracy Malechek-Ezekiel
    Photo by Mackenzie Smith Kelly
    Birdie's owners Arjav Ezekiel and chef Tracy Malechek-Ezekiel are this week's guests.

    On this week’s episode of “What’s Eric Eating,” chef Tracy Malechek-Ezekiel and beverage director Arjav Ezekiel join CultureMap Houston editor Eric Sandler to discuss their Austin restaurant Birdie’s.



    Widely considered one of Austin’s top restaurants, Birdie’s has earned local, regional, and national acclaim, including a place of the 2025 Time100 Next list, Food & Wine magazine’s 2023 Restaurant of the Year, and a 2025 James Beard Award for Outstanding Professional in Beverage Service to Ezekiel. In a 2024 column, James Beard Award winner Chris Shepherd recommended that Houstonians visit Birdie’s the next time they’re in Austin.

    Sandler’s conversation with the duo begins with a little bit about how they met while working together in New York and their decision to move to Austin. From there, it turns to Birdie’s counter service model that’s unusual for a restaurant of its quality. Sandler asks whether not offering traditional table service has lowered the restaurant’s profits.

    “It’s the opposite. Because we have a leaner labor force in the dining room, our margins are probably double what they would be if we were a traditional restaurant,” Ezekiel explains. “What we’re able to do is take a portion of that margin and invest it back into our team. We talk about ‘Conscious Capitalism’ a lot. That extra margin pays for paid family leave that we offer to everybody on our team, the month of paid and planned vacation every year, the subsidized health insurance, the subsidized mental therapy we offer. We needed to find more change under the cushions, so we could invest it back into our team.”

    Initially, Birdie’s opened with an a la carte menu. In 2025, it switched to a prix fixe format that offers diners six courses for $80. The switch means the restaurant serves fewer diners per night, which has shortened the wait to order from up to an hour to 20 minutes or less. Chef Malechek-Ezekiel explains that this change has also expanded the range of dishes she’s able to serve and broadened the techniques she uses to create them.

    “We can cook fish confit. We can use the Japanese robata grill to cook on charcoal. We can hot smoke fish to order. Now, I feel like, wow, look what we can do now. Before, we had the skills, but we couldn’t physically do it with how tiny our space is.”

    Listen to the full episode to hear more about how Birdie’s guides diners through its wine list, which of the monthly prix fixe menus has been the most successful, and the couple’s thoughts on potentially opening a new restaurant.



    In this week’s other episode, Craft Pita chef-owner Raffi Nasr joins Sandler to discuss some recent news in the world of Houston restaurants. Their topics include Tex-Mex restaurant Superica transforming into a casual steakhouse; the imminent opening of delivery-focused Shredders Pizza; and a change in operations at Weights + Measures.

    In the restaurant of the week segment, Nasr and Sandler describe their recent meal at Oru, a new sushi restaurant in the Heights from the team behind Michelin-recognized omakase counter Neo and Upper Kirby hand roll concept Kira. Listen to hear their favorite dishes as well as Sandler’s quibbles with a couple of aspects of the experience.

    -----

    Subscribe to "What's Eric Eating" on Apple podcasts, Spotify, or wherever you listen to podcasts. Hear it Sunday at 9 am on ESPN 97.5.

    Birdie's Arjav Ezekiel Tracy Malechek-Ezekiel

    Photo by Mackenzie Smith Kelly

    Birdie's owners Arjav Ezekiel and chef Tracy Malechek-Ezekiel are this week's guests.

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