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    Food for Thought

    Are you ready for some ... high-end food! Monday Night Football turns into alure for top Houston restaurants

    Marene Gustin
    Oct 4, 2010 | 2:27 pm
    • Voice's Monday Night Football Tailgate dogs
      Photo by Marene Gustin
    • Who wants to watch Tom Brady against the Dolphins tonight? I'll be keeping myeyes on the plate thank you very much.
    • Audrey Sam, pastry chef, at Voice
      Photo by Marene Gustin
    • The Poodle pig plate
      Photo by Marene Gustin

    Houston can hang with New York City or Los Angeles' restaurant scene. And we are very food savvy, as celebrity chef Anthony Bourdain recently found out.

    But it ain’t all roses for restros here.

    Celebrity chef Jerry Edwards, owner of Baltimore’s Chef's Expressions Catering and Consulting (whose wife Julie Brown-Edwards is from Houston), says things are about to get tougher.

    “The food vendors, who kept prices low during the recession, are about to raise prices by 20 percent,” he says. “It’s going to get very competitive.”

    So what are local restaurants doing to lure diners?

    Can you say: Monday Night Football?

    Buffalo wing shops and sports bars have long lured eaters with big-screen TVs and junk food, but now even high-end eateries, ones often closed on Mondays, are following suit. But with better food.

    “Monday nights are slow for everyone,” Phillip Mitchell, co-owner and chef at the newly rechristened Phil & Derek’s Restaurant and Wine Bar, says. “So we decide to open on Mondays, put in some TVs and we’re offering a $12 tailgate buffet. We’re the only wine bar doing that.”

    Phil & Derek’s serves up “guy food” like BBQ brisket, nachos, ranchero beans and rice, fried catfish tacos and hot wings. Salads (no lettuce crap!) are usually cole slaw and potato types.

    “We had a lot of ladies last Monday,” Mitchell says. “They seem to like it, too. And we offer five white wines and five reds for $4 a glass and $12 a bottle.”

    Want football and seafood? Try Danton’s Gulf Coast Seafood Kitchen. The Montrose seafood fave, which has a killer Sunday blues brunch, also now serves up the game on TV screens while fans nosh on half-priced, cold, juicy Gulf Coast oysters on the half shell from 4 to 9 p.m., along with happy hour drink prices from 4 to 7 p.m. and all-you- can-eat catfish.

    I love a good catfish. I love me some wine specials. I love a great buffet spread.

    What I don’t love, or even care a squat about, is football.

    There, I said it. No Cowboys vs. Texans. No overpaid, Carrie Underwood-ditching athletes, no ass-grabbing guys in big shoulder pads and tight pants.

    OK, Kenny Chesney’s The Boys of Fall is a nice song, but I don’t watch football. I have long passed the stage where I can pretend to swoon over some guy’s favorite team.

    You wanna watch football? Go home and watch it. Me, I’d rather stay home and watch Law and Order reruns.

    So, shoot me, I’m not a football fan. And yes, I have been to Reliant Stadium and sat in the McNairs' box and watched a game.

    It was OK — they had a seriously great buffet — until I told Janice McNair I had the same rhinestone Toro brooch she was wearing (OMG!) and she politely informed me that hers was made of diamonds. Which probably explains why I write this food column and don’t have Shelby Hodge's job.

    But last Monday I did hang at Hotel Icon’s Voice to check out its new tailgate menu.

    I barely glanced at the flat screens atop the bar and frankly, this swanky, ultra modern open-air eatery doesn’t strike me as a football watching spot. But the food chef Greg Lowry keeps pumping out of the kitchen here is worth putting up with some background cheering.

    The Monday tailgate fare is $12 for a longneck beer with skinny-cut, crispy fries and your choice of either a Kobe beef dog or chicken legs. The dog is a big barker, plump and meaty and smothered in chili made of pork, beef, masa and a tinge of chocolate. It’s all stuffed into a bun and topped with jalapenos and onions for a lip-smacking meal. Voice’s dog is definitely a contender for top dog, right up there with canines from Frank’s Chop House and Max’s Wine Dive.

    The fried leg of chicken is no slouch either. It’s like a buffalo wing on steroids (just like some players). And it’s covered in Frank’s Red Hot sauce, something that’s turning up in surprising places like atop chef David Grossman’s chicken fried oysters at Branch Water Tavern.

    But as good as the tailgate menu is, we opted for some extras. Specifically, chef Adam Garcia’s Mangalitsa coppa from Revival Meats heritage hogs. Poodle pig on a plate!

    “It’s great to be able to buy local pork,” Garcia says. “When I’m making salume I know where the pig is from, how it was raised and what it ate.”

    Apparently, it ate very well.

    Even the lard slathered bread bites went down well with a Thyme-Warp (shout out to The Rocky Horror Picture Show) of vodka, lemon, thyme and soda. Way better than the beer.

    Then, just because we hadn’t eaten enough, we ordered the dessert box, sort of a TV dinner tray of divine sweets presented by the equally sweet pastry chef, Audrey Sam, who’s a bundle of fun with some very creative takes on traditional meal enders.

    Oh, and then there was a Violette Fizz, because you know we didn’t stop at just one cocktail. This time it was gin, crème de violette, lemon juice, soda and syrup. Very yummy and light lavender color.

    Seriously, best game I never watched.

    unspecified
    news/restaurants-bars

    truffle masters recap

    Street corn shines at Houston's truffle-powered chef competition

    Eric Sandler
    Mar 12, 2026 | 5:32 pm
    Truffle Masters 2026
    Photo by Daniel Ortiz
    Marcus Benedict, Daniella Johner, and chef Luis Roger of MAD and BCN.

    One of Houston’s top Mexican restaurants took the top prize at this year’s Truffle Masters competition. Victoria Elizondo, chef-owner of Cochinita & Co., bested 24 other Houston chefs with Elotitos, corn brushed with chiltepin aioli, dusted with seven chile spice, and finished with shaved truffles and Parmesan.

    “The team killed it last night,” Elizondo wrote on Instagram. “We won 1st place at @thetrufflemasters all while having fun and cooking with love! Food doesn’t need to be fancy, it just needs to be made with corazón!”

    The attention couldn’t have come at a better time. As CultureMap reported last month, Cochinita & Co. is currently in the process of opening a second location in Lindale Park. Customers can invest in the project via the NuMarket platform in exchange for credits at the restaurant.

    Second prize went to Camaraderie in the Heights for its black sesame and black truffle gelato, while Cocody, a French restaurant in River Oaks, took third place for its truffle-shaped Lollys Persillade Escargot Cromesquis, essentially an escargot lollypop with with black truffle and quail egg in the middle.

    Montrose sushi restaurant Soto won People’s Choice with its Engawa fin muscle with truffle balsamic unagi sauce, kizami, and chocolate black truffle masago arare. Aniket Bhingare, a bartender at Michelin-starred restaurant Musaafer, won the cocktail competition with his Pour Me a Slice, made with truffle and herb-infused and a clarified mix of roma tomatoes, fresh basil, oregano, basil, and truffle oil.

    Other standout dishes included a Yukon Gold potato with truffle brown butter from Michelin-recognized sushi restaurant Hidden Omakase, truffle s’mores from Israeli-inspired steakhouse Doris Metropolitan, beef tartare and truffle ice cream from fine dining sushi restaurant Katami, and Credence’s truffle duck sausage with plums and truffles. Maximo, a Mexican restaurant in West U., maximized (sorry) its truffle usage with a Cachetada de Barbacoa Taco, made with nixtamalized truffle tortilla, truffle-braised barbacoa, and sottocenere al tartufo cheese with black garlic-habanero salsa

    More than 350 attended the sold-out affair, which took place at the Astorian events space in Sawyer Yards. The judging panel include both media members (such as this author) and hospitality pros. A portion of proceeds will be donated to the KNOWAutism Foundation.

    Truffle Masters 2026

    Photo by Daniel Ortiz

    Marcus Benedict, Daniella Johner, and chef Luis Roger of MAD and BCN.

    news/restaurants-bars
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