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    Restaurant Preview

    Hot new River Oaks restaurant offers a glorious sneak preview at popular Texas farm

    Eric Sandler
    Sep 28, 2015 | 1:53 pm

    A grassy field 50 miles from River Oaks may seem like an unlikely place for a highly anticipated new restaurant to make its public debut, but that's what happened Sunday afternoon at Blue Heron Farm.

    State of Grace, the seafood-oriented, upscale neighborhood restaurant from Atlanta chef Ford Fry that's being led by former Ciao Bello chef Bobby Matos, offered a sneak peek of its menu at an intimate Sunday supper.

    Fry, a Houston native, joined Matos, State of Grace general manager Matt Crawford and a full staff for a five-course menu that previewed the restaurant's offerings. Although the restaurant hasn't set an official opening date, Fry estimates it should be ready to debut in two or three weeks.

    When he addressed the 25 or so attendees, Fry said his goal is for State of Grace to recall the restaurants he remembers from his childhood growing up in Houston like Hofbrau Steakhouse and the San Jacinto Inn but updated in terms of preparations and ingredients.

    Details on the restaurant's look are scarce, but one loose-lipped insider said the restaurant's stags head logo is reflected in a number of animals heads adorning the walls. Regardless of the details, Fry's reputation for stunning design — check out these pictures from his restaurants The Optimist and Marcel — should rival that of other high-style newcomers like SaltAir Seafood Kitchen or Oporto Fooding House & Wine.

    Neighborhood restaurant

    Fry emphasized two key points in his brief remarks. First, he sees State of Grace as a neighborhood restaurant rather than something that's fine dining. Second, he noted that Matos has been given freedom to shape the menu as he sees fit. While Matos earned acclaim for his work at Ciao Bello, State of Grace will be his first opportunity to shape a restaurant's culinary direction. If the results of Sunday's meal are any indication, diners are in for a treat.

    When attendees made the short walk past some of Blue Heron's adorable goats, they arrived to find two long picnic tables decorated with flowers, trays of raw oysters on ice and State of Grace general manager Matt Crawford, who moved to Houston from Fry's restaurant St. Cecilia, waiting with a glass of champagne. The oysters represent State of Grace's extensive raw bar that will include both Gulf and East Coast specimens.

    The cooked portion of the meal began with grilled head-on Gulf shrimp served with lime and herbs in an addictive broth that diners sopped up with individual loaves of Slow Dough bread. From there, Matos demonstrated his deft touch with pasta with al dente garganelli in white bolognese sauce.

    Family-style portions

    Massive, lightly smoked beef ribs in a sweet, sticky glazed arrived next; fork tender, the meat could either be eaten by itself or in an improvised taco with the grilled roti bread, barbecue sauce and herbs. Grilled eggplant topped with Blue Heron cheese and bowls of black eyed peas served as sides to the entree. Despite the substantial, family-style portions, most people found room for the dessert of individual oatmeal cream pies.

    Despite the rustic setting, Matos and his team executed at a high level. Obviously, the restaurant won't feature metal grates or camp stoves for cooking equipment, but the flavors and presentation all seem consistent with what Fry's reputation would lead one to expect.

    Both Fry and Matos refered to State of Grace as the company "first" Houston restaurant. Whether that means a "second" is already in the works remains to be seen, but, based on a first taste of State of Grace, such a development should be welcomed by Houstonians.

    Shrimp in lime sauce with herbs.

    State of Grace preview
    Photo by Eric Sandler
    Shrimp in lime sauce with herbs.
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    something for everyone

    New brewery pours into Houston with craft beer, cocktails, and homebrew

    Ralph Palmer
    Apr 10, 2026 | 12:29 pm
    Farmboy Brewing Company
    Photo by Ralph Palmer
    Farmboy Brewing Company is now open on N. Shepherd.

    The tides of craft breweries in Houston and across the country have shifted dramatically over the past five years, marked by closures and a clear softening of the once unstoppable boom, with names like True Anomaly, Elder Son, and Buffalo Bayou Brewing serving as recent reminders of how quickly the landscape can change. What is emerging in its place is a new phase that is far less rigid about labels and more focused on flexibility and meeting customers where they actually are.

    For Landon Weiershausen, that evolution is not guesswork. It's the entire business plan.

    After more than a decade running Farmboy Brew Shop and working across nearly every space of the beer supply chain, (hops to kegs to fruit) Weiershausen has stepped back into ownership with a new brewery. Farmboy Brewing Company (4816 N Shepherd Dr.) blends a taproom, full cocktail bar, and homebrew retail shop into a single, community-driven space. The location will be familiar to many craft beer fans, as it previously housed both North Shepherd Brewing and Astral Brewing.

    “It’s about giving people what they actually want when they walk in the door,” Weiershausen tells CultureMap.

    Weiershausen’s roots in Houston’s beer world stretch back to 2014, when he opened Farmboy Brew Shop, a go-to spot for local Oak Forest/Garden Oaks homebrewers looking for ingredients, gear, and advice. With the launch of Farmboy Brewing, that business still exists, but it’s now integrated into the new brewery.

    The move creates something unique in the world of Houston beer — a space where hobbyists, beer nerds, and casual drinkers can intersect. In the 9,000-square-foot space, customers can shop for grains and yeast then walk a few steps over and grab a pint or a cocktail.

    “The majority of people coming in for homebrew are also interested in drinking,” Weiershausen says. “Now they don’t have to choose.”

    Instead of fighting changes in the beverage industry, Weiershausen is leaning into diversification. His brewery operates with a mixed beverage license, allowing for a full cocktail program alongside beer, wine, non-alcoholic options, and THC-infused drinks. That last category, while politically contentious in Texas, represents what he sees as an undeniable shift in consumer behavior. Currently, Weiershausen is stocking a few verities of THC-infused offerings from Eureka Heights Brew Co.

    “There’s a huge market for it,” he says. “Whether people like it or not, customers are choosing those products over traditional alcoholic beverages."

    Rather than drawing lines between beer drinkers and everyone else, the goal is to make the space work for large groups that have diverse drink preferences.

    “If someone doesn’t drink beer, or doesn’t drink alcohol at all, we still want them to have options.”

    Despite the brewery name on the door, Weiershausen isn’t rushing his own beer to market. Instead, the tap list currently leans on guest kegs from local and regional breweries such as Great Heights, Spindletap, Saint Arnold, and Lone Pint. This decision is a deliberate move that buys time while new brewing equipment is installed and optimized. It’s a patient approach that prioritizes long-term quality over a fast rollout and reflects lessons learned from years inside the industry. In the meantime, the guest taps double as a nod to relationships that Weiershausen has built over many years.

    “A lot of these are people who took care of me over the years,” he says. “This is a way to return the favor.”

    Once the brewing program is rolled out in the next few weeks, expect the first batch of offering to include a West Coast IPA, Hazy IPA, Light Lager, and an American Wheat. The program itself will also be led by head brewer Steven Treleaven, formerly of Conroe’s B-52 Brewing.

    Weiershausen’s vision prioritizes education. The homebrew shop has always served as an entry point for teaching its customers more about beer, but the expanded space opens the door to something he describes as an “education escalator.” Plans include monthly workshops covering everything from brewing basics to off-flavor detection (a critical skill for anyone serious about improving their homebrew).

    Like most breweries, the space will feature familiar weekly staples including trivia nights, but Weiershausen is also looking to mix in less predictable programming. Think dance classes, themed events, and rotating concepts that go beyond the usual bingo-and-beer formula.

    On the food side, Weiershausen has chosen not to build an in-house kitchen. Instead, the brewery will host food trucks, including the return of fan-favorite El Alabrije, known for its Oaxacan-inspired menu.

    At its core, the concept reflects something bigger than one brewery. It’s a response to a changing market, a shifting customer base, and a city that’s never fit neatly into one category anyway. For Weiershausen, the path forward isn’t about choosing between beer, cocktails, or anything else. It’s about building a place where all of it works together.

    “We’re just trying to create something for the community,” he says. “Whatever that means for them.”

    ----

    Ralph Palmer is a co-owner of the Deckle and Hyde barbecue pop-up and a longtime craft beer enthusiast. Follow him on Instagram at eyefearnobeer.

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