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    Big Beard News

    Prestigious James Beard Awards recognizes Texas as its own region

    Eric Sandler
    Sep 17, 2019 | 11:50 am
    James Beard Foundation Award medal
    The Beard Foundation is making big changes to its awards.
    Courtesy photo

    The James Beard Foundation announced sweeping changes to its annual culinary awards, which are widely considered the Oscars of the food world. Instead of 10 regions for its chef and restaurant categories, the foundation has expanded them to 12.

    Critically, Texas moves from the Southwest region to its own region. Other changes include California also becoming its own region, and New York City, previously its own region, is now combined with New York State in a new region that separates the state from the Northeast region that will now be centered on New England. States in the former Southwest and West regions have been redistributed into Northwest and Pacific, Mountain, and Southwest regions. They’re the first changes to the regional alignments since 2012.

    “The national restaurant scene and the populations that fuel it are constantly shifting,” Mitchell Davis, the foundation’s chief strategy officer, said in a statement. “We understand that as a foundation, we must continually adapt to serve our community as fairly as possible. ... By increasing our regional awards from 10 to 12, we are recognizing the explosion of food and restaurant culture across the country, and we are pleased to share this news with the food and hospitality community and all those who follow our annual Awards.”

    Mitchell hinted that these changes might be coming earlier this year at the Foundation’s press conference in Houston when none of the city’s chefs earned finalist status. “[Making changes would not be] for Houston’s sake, it’s not for Chicago’s sake, it’s not for Miami’s sake,” Davis said at the time. “It’s about this dynamic country.”

    Count Justin Yu as a fan of the decision. Yu, the winner of Best Chef: Southwest in 2016, tells CultureMap that he hopes putting Texas in its own region will allow the foundation to shine its spotlight on lesser-known chefs.

    “With Southwest being such a large region, a lot of the time the restaurants that really help define a city — a lot of them being restaurants that are defined by a culture — get overlooked. So we end up with a lot of that higher end, mostly American or quasi-American food on the finalist list,” Yu says. “I really hope this means that Kaiser Lashkari [Himalaya] ends up as a finalist this year or Teiichi Sakurai [Tei-An] from Dallas. Or Tootsie Tomanetz [Snow’s BBQ in Lexington], who to this day has served me the best plate of barbecue I’ve ever had.”

    Both Beard Award winner Chris Shepherd and restaurateur Tracy Vaught, speaking on behalf of herself and her husband, Beard Award winner Hugo Ortega, tell CultureMap that putting Texas in its own category for the awards could help shine a spotlight on lesser-known restaurants that are outside of the state’s largest cities. Shepherd also notes that Texas has enough diversity to support the recognition, a sentiment Vaught echoed.

    “We don’t believe that Texas became relevant all of a sudden; we believe Texas was producing many great chefs, and no one was noticing,” Vaught says. “They are paying attention now. Another great result of this is that we will have a winner every year that is from Texas.”

    Where will those winners come from? For at least the next couple of years, repeat finalists like Steve McHugh (Cured in San Antonio), Bryce Gilmore (Barley Swine in Austin), and Michael Fojtasek (Olamie in Austin) may finally win medals. That could open room for a new generation of chefs such as Martin Stayer of Nobie’s or Ryan Lachaine of Riel.

    The trick will be for the various voting members to avoid the trap of just focusing on Austin, which tends to draw more Beard Award voters, due to events such as South by Southwest and the Austin Food & Wine Festival. Responsibility for selecting the semifinalists will fall on the Beard Foundation’s restaurant and chef awards committee, which now includes a new Texas representative. Houston Chronicle food critic Alison Cook has replaced Texas Monthly editor Pat Sharpe.

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    What's Eric Eating Episodes 523 and 524

    Acclaimed Austin duo dish on their wine-obsessed neighborhood restaurant

    CultureMap Staff
    Jan 16, 2026 | 1:08 pm
    Birdie's Arjav Ezekiel Tracy Malechek-Ezekiel
    Photo by Mackenzie Smith Kelly
    Birdie's owners Arjav Ezekiel and chef Tracy Malechek-Ezekiel are this week's guests.

    On this week’s episode of “What’s Eric Eating,” chef Tracy Malechek-Ezekiel and beverage director Arjav Ezekiel join CultureMap Houston editor Eric Sandler to discuss their Austin restaurant Birdie’s.



    Widely considered one of Austin’s top restaurants, Birdie’s has earned local, regional, and national acclaim, including a place of the 2025 Time100 Next list, Food & Wine magazine’s 2023 Restaurant of the Year, and a 2025 James Beard Award for Outstanding Professional in Beverage Service to Ezekiel. In a 2024 column, James Beard Award winner Chris Shepherd recommended that Houstonians visit Birdie’s the next time they’re in Austin.

    Sandler’s conversation with the duo begins with a little bit about how they met while working together in New York and their decision to move to Austin. From there, it turns to Birdie’s counter service model that’s unusual for a restaurant of its quality. Sandler asks whether not offering traditional table service has lowered the restaurant’s profits.

    “It’s the opposite. Because we have a leaner labor force in the dining room, our margins are probably double what they would be if we were a traditional restaurant,” Ezekiel explains. “What we’re able to do is take a portion of that margin and invest it back into our team. We talk about ‘Conscious Capitalism’ a lot. That extra margin pays for paid family leave that we offer to everybody on our team, the month of paid and planned vacation every year, the subsidized health insurance, the subsidized mental therapy we offer. We needed to find more change under the cushions, so we could invest it back into our team.”

    Initially, Birdie’s opened with an a la carte menu. In 2025, it switched to a prix fixe format that offers diners six courses for $80. The switch means the restaurant serves fewer diners per night, which has shortened the wait to order from up to an hour to 20 minutes or less. Chef Malechek-Ezekiel explains that this change has also expanded the range of dishes she’s able to serve and broadened the techniques she uses to create them.

    “We can cook fish confit. We can use the Japanese robata grill to cook on charcoal. We can hot smoke fish to order. Now, I feel like, wow, look what we can do now. Before, we had the skills, but we couldn’t physically do it with how tiny our space is.”

    Listen to the full episode to hear more about how Birdie’s guides diners through its wine list, which of the monthly prix fixe menus has been the most successful, and the couple’s thoughts on potentially opening a new restaurant.



    In this week’s other episode, Craft Pita chef-owner Raffi Nasr joins Sandler to discuss some recent news in the world of Houston restaurants. Their topics include Tex-Mex restaurant Superica transforming into a casual steakhouse; the imminent opening of delivery-focused Shredders Pizza; and a change in operations at Weights + Measures.

    In the restaurant of the week segment, Nasr and Sandler describe their recent meal at Oru, a new sushi restaurant in the Heights from the team behind Michelin-recognized omakase counter Neo and Upper Kirby hand roll concept Kira. Listen to hear their favorite dishes as well as Sandler’s quibbles with a couple of aspects of the experience.

    -----

    Subscribe to "What's Eric Eating" on Apple podcasts, Spotify, or wherever you listen to podcasts. Hear it Sunday at 9 am on ESPN 97.5.

    Birdie's Arjav Ezekiel Tracy Malechek-Ezekiel

    Photo by Mackenzie Smith Kelly

    Birdie's owners Arjav Ezekiel and chef Tracy Malechek-Ezekiel are this week's guests.

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