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    Foodie News

    The best-eating band in America: Iconic Texas chefs power the sweet foodie musicof The Barbwires

    Sarah Rufca
    Sep 13, 2011 | 6:03 am
    • The Barbwires with Johnny Reno, Tim Keating, Chris Rote, Dean Fearing, RobertDel Grande and Peg Honea
    • Robert Del Grande and Dean Fearing performing at RDG + Bar Annie last year
      Photo by Andrea Gibbs/A.G. Photographix
    • Chef Robert Del Grande
      Photo by Michelle Watson/LastNightPics.com

    Bands get groupies for all sorts of reasons. Maybe it's the potential to have a song written for you. Maybe it's the tight pants. It's definetely something to do with the swagger.

    But when your band is The Barbwires, and your leads are two of Texas' most famous chefs, Robert Del Grande (of RDG and The Grove, among others) and Dean Fearing (who rose to fame at The Mansion on Turtle Creek and now owns Fearing's in Dallas), it's the combination of a funky Texas twang and some legendary post-gig meals that makes fans of foodies and famous musicians alike.

    In the 1980s, Del Grande and Fearing, along with Stephan Pyles and others, established their own takes on a new southwestern cuisine and began traveling and presenting dinners together around the country, gaining national recognition for a food movement that would later earn each one of them a James Beard Award.

    "We called it the room service tour — nobody ate better room service than us," Fearing says. "Thirty people, 11 room service carts, these are the days when you could sign it all off. I'd go back to The Mansion and turn in a $700 bill for room service."

    The tours only began to include music after Robert's wife Mimi let it slip to Fearing that all her husband did when he wasn't cooking was "play that damn guitar." Fearing told him to bring it along, and over the chords of Derek and the Dominos' "Why Does Love Got to Be So Sad," a band was born.

    "We called it the room service tour — nobody ate better room service than us," Fearing tells CultureMap. "Thirty people, 11 room service carts, these are the days when you could sign it all off. I'd go back to The Mansion and turn in a $700 bill for room service. Robert and I would be playing and everyone would be singing.

    "Stephan Pyles even went to school for voice lessons. It was amazing. As time went on other chefs would bring their guitars so it became a giant jam session — we'd have guitars, base players, drummers on anything in the room that could make a beat, we were having fun with it."

    It wasn't for another decade that the jam sessions would turn into a serious musical concept. By 2000 the main players were Fearing and Del Grande, who decided that they should give the band a name and start writing their own music. With Fearing in Dallas and Del Grande based in Houston, the writing process took place long distance, with Del Grande sending Fearing lyrics and Fearing coming up with a tune, the two playing guitar back and forth into telephones and trying to replicate and riff on what the other came up with.

    With inspirations ranging from Crosby, Stills and Nash to Buffalo Springfield and The Byrds, the duo settled into a rockabilly/surfer country sound that combined several genres while remaining true to a unique Texas musical identity.

    "The whole cooking idea was to have something that resembled what Texas was all about, something you’d call the home flavor, that we would be different from New England or California," Del Grande says. "And sound-wise, too, we wanted to be a Texas sound, as opposed to Nashville, because Texas has all the sounds, between country, western, blues, folk, etc. I was always keen on what the sound should be.

    "They do kinda fit together and they should make sense together. It would be strange if we were cooking Texas food and we were in a waltz band or heavy metal or something."

    While the name The Barbwires evokes a classically tough Texas vibe, the original idea was a little less polished. According to Robert Del Grande, it all started as a (somewhat corny) homage to the classic bands that included the players' names in the title. "I said hey, it’ll be Dean Fearing and the Bob Wires, and I’ll be Bob, and the band will be The Wires and I’ll run the band and you’ll be Dean Fearing. And the next thing I know, Food and Wine magazine is calling me and says they’re doing a little story about our band, and they wanted to know 'Do you spell that B-a-r-b-e-d Wires or B-a-r-b-w-i-r-e-s?'

    "I knew if I explained it was actually the Bob Wires it would sound stupid, so I was like, 'Yes, B-a-r-b, Barbwires.' And then it went to print, so that’s that."

    The Barbwires took the band up a notch when the Del Grande/Fearing duo gained some experienced backers, including famed saxophonist Johnny Reno.

    "All the musicians now are big food and wine guys, and Johnny Reno, the saxophone player, he lives in Fort Worth and started coming to a lot of my cooking classes," Fearing says. "I couldn't believe that Johnny Reno, who I've seen a hundred times, was interested in my cooking. We got to be friends and he said, 'Hey let me bring my sax,' and eventually said, 'Hey, let me bring my band and we'll be your band.' So his band started to be The Barbwires."

    The bold-name list of Barbwires doesn't end with Reno. The guest list reads like a who's who of both chefs and Texas musicians, including Norman Van Aken (harmonica), Tim Keating (vocals), Joe Abuso (bass), Mickey Raphael, Steve Winwood, Wynonna, Buffalo Springfield's Richie Furay and Jimmy Messina.

    "It's fun because all these people are big foodies," Fearing says. "I can die peacefully now, I played with all my idols."

    " We’re the best-eating band in America," Del Grande says. "It’s always about food and wine and what’s the scotch today?"

    The band has released a studio album, 2007's Bliss and Blisters, and unites for live gigs a couple times a year, including a performance in Houston on Tuesday night at the Second Annual Best Cellars Celebrity Dinner. But as much as Fearing and Del Grande dig the music, food is never far from the scene.

    "We’re the best-eating band in America," Del Grande says. "It’s always about food and wine and what’s the scotch today? If you played and food and wine were really important to you, you could join. Dean was a friend of Mickey Raphael’s brother — Mickey, of course, plays harmonica with Willie Nelson. So Mickey came and played with us, and then we had dinner. We’ve got all the amps and stuff lined up and there a table with white linen and everything in the corner, so we were set up for a little five-course dinner. We pour the wine, fill up the plates, and Mickey is like, 'Wow! You guys do this all the time?'

    "We said this is just kinda how we do things. Because that was always part of it. We would never play and not eat. Even now with our squad who are professional musicians, it’s always, 'You wanna play? You wanna eat?' "

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    Chris Cusack explains

    Houston bar owner speaks out about surprise arrest for health code violations

    Eric Sandler
    May 11, 2026 | 3:50 pm
    Chris Cusack
    Photo by Sergio Trevino
    Chris Cusack owns two locations of Betelgeuse Betelgeuse.

    Certainly one of the most unusual interactions between a restaurant and City of Houston officials took place on Wednesday, May 6 when Betelgeuse Betelgeuse owner Chris Cusack was arrested for health code violations at his location on Washington Avenue.

    News of the arrest spread quickly across social media over the weekend. Now, Cusack is ready to tell his side of the story.

    Cusack, whose time operating restaurants in Houston goes back more than 15 years to Down House and its affiliated restaurants such as Hunky Dory and D&T Drive Inn, tells CultureMap the problem began on Monday, May 4 when a health department inspector came to Betelgeuse Betelgeuse and asked to see the restaurant’s grease trap.

    The only problem is that location has never had a grease trap. Prior to becoming Betelgeuse Betelgeuse, it was Liberty Station, a pioneering bar in Houston’s craft beer and craft cocktail scenes. In the early days, Betelgeuse served food from a food truck. More recently, it prepares its food next door at The Bell and Crane. Cusack acknowledges he didn’t share this information with the inspector.

    “Usually I’m a charmer with the health department, but I was a little defensive. She kept asking me. I said, ‘ma’am, we don’t make food here,’” he explains. “The tone wasn’t my finest moment, but there was no name calling or anything like that. She said, ‘where does the food come from?’ I said, ‘it doesn’t matter where it comes from. It’s produced in a commercial kitchen.’”

    Cusack says he knew there would be a follow up, but he was shocked when the inspector returned two days later with more colleagues from the health department, TABC inspectors, and Houston Police Department officers.

    “I got somewhere between 21 and 25 citations,” Cusack says about the return visit. He got dinged for everything from graffiti in the bathroom to a missing Harris County tax stamp on the photo booth he leases from a vendor (it has both State of Texas and City of Houston stamps, Cusack says).

    One inspector told Cusack he needed a food dealer’s permit. He showed the inspector that a food dealer’s permit had been issued for the restaurant's address under the former food truck’s LLC but not to the LLC that operates Betelgeuse Betelgeuse. Cusack says he had renewed the food truck’s permit in March, but that wasn’t good enough for the inspector. In Cusack’s telling, he was arrested for not having the permit, since it was also flagged as missing in an inspection from October 2025. He's the only person he knows who has ever been arrested for a misdemeanor violation of the health code.

    Cusack says he spent 21 hours in the Harris County Jail. When he got out, he says he was contacted by a more senior official within the Health Department. Once Cusack confirmed he owned both LLCs, he was told he could reopen. Both locations of Betelgeuse Betelgeuse have been operating normally since Friday, May 8.

    Cusack maintains he never knew about the October 2025 inspection, which is why he renewed the food dealer’s permit for the food truck’s LLC rather than applying for one under Betelgeuse Betelgeuse’s LLC. “There’s no paper trail that shows I was given this information,” he says. “I did not get the email [from the Health Department].”

    As for why things got so out of hand, Cusack theorizes he was a victim of Houston Mayor John Whitemire’s crack down on “reckless behavior” on Washington Avenue and stepped up enforcement on bars generally that led to the temporary closure of near northside cocktail bar Rabbit’s Got the Gun.

    Cusack says he’s a “huge supporter” of efforts to reduce crimes like street racing, drug dealing, and sex trafficking along Washington and in its surrounding neighborhoods. Still, he feels targeting by the city for being impolite to a health inspector.

    He plans to fight both the arrest and the citations in court. “I want the charges dropped, and I want it expunged completely from my record. That’s the first thing, and I’m going to try very hard to do it,” he says.

    “That’s going to end up costing thousands of dollars just to deal with the sheer volume,” he adds.

    CultureMap contacted Mayor Whitmire’s office. A representative said the mayor was not aware of the situation and has no comment on an open investigation.

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