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    Young DMC Steps Up

    Surprise exit: Houston father-son chefs depart family's South American steakhouse chain

    Eric Sandler
    Sep 10, 2018 | 9:47 am
    Churrascos Memorial City interior bar and sitting area
    Cordua Restaurants — including the popular Churrascos — are undergoing a major change.
    Photo by © Julie Soefer/Courtesy of Churrascos

    UPDATE: Cordua Restaurants CEO Juan Deshon provided CultureMap with the following statement on September 13:

    “Cordua Restaurants, Inc. is in a strong position, and is moving forward maintaining its focus on culinary excellence, superior customer service and offering an incredible dining experience. We salute the over 400 employees at the heart of the brand's 30-year success, whose passion and hard work day-in and day-out are carrying us toward an exciting future. We remain committed to our customers and our community.

    In 2011 we agreed to invest into a 50-50 ownership with Michael Cordua in Cordua Restaurants because the company was in dire need of an immediate cash infusion. Since then, Michael’s own actions and inability to meet his financial commitments have ultimately resulted in completely depleting his ownership share in Cordua Restaurants, Inc.”

    ---

    In a world where Apple once fired Steve Jobs, no one’s job is truly safe. That’s especially true in the world of Houston restaurants, where today’s “partner” can become tomorrow’s former employee.

    Still, it comes as a major surprise to learn that the father-son chef-duo of Michael and David Cordua are no longer affiliated with Cordua Restaurants. Michael famously founded the company on August 8, 1988 (8/8/88) when he opened the first Churrascos and launched what would become a successful local mini-chain of South American steakhouses and a successful catering business. In 1994, he earned the a prestigious Food & Wine Best New Chef award. David began working for his father at the age of 15, eventually going to culinary school and training in Europe to hone his skills.

    According to David, the company’s investors made the decision to remove them. Distant family from Nicaragua, Michael Cordua brought them on board in 2011 for the Sugar Land location of Churrascos, and eventually their role grew to general partners. Over time, it became clear a separation would be necessary.

    “They didn’t really understand chef-driven restaurants, [and] marginalized the roles of my dad and myself over the years,” David Cordua tells CultureMap. “That’s really what prompted our separation. It was clear we were going in separate ways.”

    Still, David isn’t letting the change slow him down. He and his father have started a new company, Michael and David Cordua Hospitality. They’re quietly catering for longtime customers and holding a few fundraising dinners for local non-profits.

    In addition, David has launched a pop-up series he’s calling Yum DMC (his initials) that will allow him to explore flavors and techniques that didn’t fit at Churrascos or Americas. The first will be held at Boheme on September 27.

    “In the last 10 years that I’ve been with the company, I came into something that was pretty established,” Cordua says. “My creative outlet was always catering. It’s where I got to showcase my travels, my personal background, my experience growing up in the most diverse city in the country . . . It won’t necessarily be plantain chips, churrascos, and tres leches.”

    While that would be sufficient for most people, Cordua also shot a pilot for a new series on Houston Public Media called The Houston Cookbook. “It’s about showcasing the diversity of the city, our passion for food,” Cordua says. “I’m interviewing and touring with different chefs and restaurateurs in their homes and restaurant kitchens. Expanding on what David Chang started with Ugly Delicious, what Anthony Bourdain did on his Houston show [Parts Unknown].”

    Featured guests range from prominent Houston chefs like Kiran Verma (Kiran’s) and Ana Beaven (Cuchara) to off-the-radar spots like Safari, a Nigerian restaurant in Southwest Houston. “Hopefully, it’s well-received, and we’ll see where it goes from there,” Cordua says.

    Of course, Cordua is also quietly working on another restaurant. He isn’t ready to divulge any specifics, but the project sounds like it could be a game changer for Houston’s dining scene.

    “That’s going to be something really exciting for the city,” Cordua says. “It [only] exists in other countries, to my knowledge. I think there’s something [like it] in Los Angeles as well.”

    Cordua’s firmly focused on the future. He doesn’t want to get dragged down discussing the specifics of what happened within the company his father founded. Asked about his feelings about the situation, he’s succinct.

    “I feel grateful. Grateful to first and foremost to the staff who were my family, basically. I’ve known them since I was six years old,” Cordua says. “Grateful for the opportunity to serve. Cordua [Restaurants] let us be a part of the community as a first-generation family. That’s what I feel more than anything is gratitude. I do wish the group all the success in the world.

    “It was time for me to do my own thing.”

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    visiting popup bagels

    A highly opinionated take on Houston's venture-backed new bagel shop

    Eric Sandler
    Jun 18, 2026 | 5:10 pm
    PopUp Bagels
    Courtesy of PopUp Bagels
    Houstonians are lining up to try PopUp Bagels.

    It’s hard to remember the last restaurant opening with as much fanfare as PopUp Bagels. Houstonians lined up in the heat for the bakery’s grand opening on Saturday, June 13.

    Shawn the Food Sheep included a glimpse of the line in his review below.


    View this post on Instagram
    A post shared by Shawn Singh (@shawnthefoodsheep)


    Eager to see what the fuss is all about, I stopped by around 10 am on Thursday, June 18. Thankfully, only about a dozen people stood in line ahead of me, and I had a bag of six bagels in less than 20 minutes.

    The frequency with which it boils and bakes it bagels sets PopUp Bagels apart from Houston’s traditional, mostly family-owned bagel shops. Instead of making large batches early in the morning that may get refreshed once or twice per day, PopUp Bagels is constantly boiling and baking smaller batches of a couple dozen bagels at a time throughout its operating hours. That's why customers will hear the cry of “hot bagels” echoing through the small, counter-service space every time more emerge from the oven.

    PopUp is different from traditional bagel shops in a couple of other important ways. First, the menu only list five varieties — plain, poppy, salt, sesame, and everything, which is topped with poppy seeds, salt, and sesame seeds. And, it only serves whole bagels — no slicing or toasting. The store’s motto of “grip, rip, and dip” explains how it expects customers to consume their bagels. Packaged lox are available, but diners have to assemble the sandwich themselves — either off-site or at one of the couple of cafe tables outside.

    PopUp Bagels also doesn’t sell individual bagels. Instead, diners must order a minimum of three bagels and a schmear — various cream cheese and butters are available — for $15. Six bagels and a schmear costs $24. A dozen bagels and two schmears is $46. As a point of comparison, the Bagel Shop Bakery in Bellaire charges $25 for 13 bagels and two, 8-ounce schmears.

    So, how is it?

    Fresh, hot bagels are inherently superior to hours-old bagels. That’s a real advantage for PopUp Bagels. On my visit, the fresh-from-the-oven plain bagels were so hot that they needed a couple of minutes before we could "grip and rip" them.

    As for the bagels themselves, they certainly look the part. The outside is deeply caramelized with an even distribution of toppings that adhere well to the exterior.

    But the biggest shortcoming is texture. Bagels, obviously, are supposed to be chewy, but all six of the bagels that an ex-pat New Yorker friend and I ordered walked the line between chewy and underbaked. That may be deliberate, as softer bagels are easier to “grip and rip.”

    It's also possible that the bakery’s new employees are still dialing in procedures, and that a different day would yield bagels with a crispier texture. Colloquially, friends who have also visited the shop — both in Houston and other cities — disagreed with my assessment of the texture.

    The plain is just that, with a very mild flavor. Both the scallion cream cheese and salted butter had a pleasantly creamy texture and boosted the dining experience.

    Overall, PopUp is competitive with Houston’s best bagels. That’s promising, since Stripes — the equity growth firm that bought PopUp Bagels in 2023 — has announced plans to open more than 300 locations nationwide.

    But you won’t see me driving half an hour or standing in a long line to get another taste. Houston’s locally-owned bagel shops are more convenient, less expensive, and just as good.

    PopUp Bagels

    Courtesy of PopUp Bagels

    Houstonians are lining up to try PopUp Bagels.

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