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    11 things to know

    11 things to know in Houston food right now: Openings, closings, and people on the move

    Eric Sandler
    Aug 16, 2019 | 3:03 pm

    Editor’s note: Houston’s restaurant scene moves pretty fast. In order to prevent CultureMap readers from missing anything, let’s stop to look around at all the latest news to know.

    Openings, closings, and coming attractions

    Pizza Zquare will be Finn Hall’s newest tenant. The first restaurant from owner Francisco Sierra, the stand will serve Roman-style pizza (by-the-slice or whole, square-shaped pies), cold cut sandwiches, salads, and desserts. It replaces Mr. Nice Pie, which closed in March.

    California-based restaurant Lazy Dog Restaurant & Bar has brought its classic comfort food to Cypress. The eclectic menu offers everything from pot roast and bacon-wrapped bison meatloaf to a Nashville hot-style portobello mushroom. Desserts — butter cake, gluten-friendly carrot cake made with almond flour, etc. — are all made in-house. Judging by all the raves on the Cypress Area Foodies and Fooding Facebook group, the two-week old establishment is already winning fans in the neighborhood.

    Oporto Café served its last meal July 27. Owner Rick Di Virgilio told the Chronicle he opted not to renew the lease on the space near Greenway Plaza, but the restaurant will reopen with a new name in a new location. Of course, he also promised to reopen the Queen Vic Pub & Kitchen when it closed last year, and that hasn’t happened (yet). Oporto Fooding House & Wine, Di Virgilio’s more sophisticated Midtown restaurant, remains open.

    Speaking of the Queen Vic, its former space on Richmond Avenue has a new occupant. Olive & Twist, a restaurant that describes itself as serving “new American cuisine,” recently opened for dinner service. The eclectic menu offers a wide range of options, including pasta, burgers, steaks, and lavash pizzas.

    Off the Hook, a quick service Cajun restaurant from Thibodaux, Louisiana, has brought its fried seafood baskets, po’boys, and gumbo to north Houston. The restaurant is open daily at 125 Remington Valley Dr.

    Ice cream sandwich purveyor Smoosh has opened a second location in Katy at 9550 Spring Green Blvd. Formerly a food truck, Smoosh opened its first location in the Heights last year. The dessert shop’s success is a testament to the powerful alchemy of combining freshly-baked cookies with ice cream and creative toppings.

    People on the move

    Jean-Philippe Gaston has left his role as Kata Robata’s chef de cuisine. Instead, he’s planning to work alongside chef Jose Carlos “JC” Redon at a series of pop-up dinners in Europe. His plans for the future are uncertain, but his dual French citizenship allows him to work oversees. Veteran Kata cook Dexter Nguyen will step in for Gaston.

    Tastemaker Awards bartender of the year nominee Monique Cioffi-Hernandez has departed B.B. Lemon. She tells CultureMap that she valued her role as beverage director for Ben Berg’s modern diner but that the time has come to launch her own project. Until that happens, fans can find her behind the bar at Field & Tides in the Heights.

    Other news and notes

    King’s BierHaus has brought back its popular all-you-can-eat sausage promotion. Through the end of August, feast on six different traditional sausages — bratwurst, Polish sausage, spicy Kielbasa — for just $9.95 or add exotic and plant-based sausages to the selections for $12.95. The offer is available at the BierHaus locations near the Heights and in League City, as well as the original King’s Biergarten in Pearland.

    EaDo pizzeria Vinny’s has added New York-style pies to its menu. Available by-the-slice or whole, executive chef Paul Lewis developed a dough recipe that yields a traditional, foldable slice. Vinny’s signature pepperoni, sourced from sister concept Revival Market, gets cut a little thinner on the NY-style slices so that it curls up when cooked.

    If the best thing about Common Bond Café & Bakery is its signature pastries, then the worst is the sometimes lengthy wait to acquire them. Thankfully, a new online ordering platform will make the process easier. Available via the cafe’s website or an app, customers simply place their order then head straight for the cashier to pick it up. The process even works for people who are dining-in and decide they want to take something to-go without getting back in line.

    Roman-style square pizza is coming to Finn Hall.

    Pizza Zquare Rosa Grande pepperoni Finn Hall
    Courtesy of Finn Hall
    Roman-style square pizza is coming to Finn Hall.
    closingschefsopeningsnews-you-can-eat
    news/restaurants-bars

    Chris Cusack explains

    Houston bar owner speaks out about surprise arrest for health code violations

    Eric Sandler
    May 11, 2026 | 3:50 pm
    Chris Cusack
    Photo by Sergio Trevino
    Chris Cusack owns two locations of Betelgeuse Betelgeuse.

    Certainly one of the most unusual interactions between a restaurant and City of Houston officials took place on Wednesday, May 6 when Betelgeuse Betelgeuse owner Chris Cusack was arrested for health code violations at his location on Washington Avenue.

    News of the arrest spread quickly across social media over the weekend. Now, Cusack is ready to tell his side of the story.

    Cusack, whose time operating restaurants in Houston goes back more than 15 years to Down House and its affiliated restaurants such as Hunky Dory and D&T Drive Inn, tells CultureMap the problem began on Monday, May 4 when a health department inspector came to Betelgeuse Betelgeuse and asked to see the restaurant’s grease trap.

    The only problem is that location has never had a grease trap. Prior to becoming Betelgeuse Betelgeuse, it was Liberty Station, a pioneering bar in Houston’s craft beer and craft cocktail scenes. In the early days, Betelgeuse served food from a food truck. More recently, it prepares its food next door at The Bell and Crane. Cusack acknowledges he didn’t share this information with the inspector.

    “Usually I’m a charmer with the health department, but I was a little defensive. She kept asking me. I said, ‘ma’am, we don’t make food here,’” he explains. “The tone wasn’t my finest moment, but there was no name calling or anything like that. She said, ‘where does the food come from?’ I said, ‘it doesn’t matter where it comes from. It’s produced in a commercial kitchen.’”

    Cusack says he knew there would be a follow up, but he was shocked when the inspector returned two days later with more colleagues from the health department, TABC inspectors, and Houston Police Department officers.

    “I got somewhere between 21 and 25 citations,” Cusack says about the return visit. He got dinged for everything from graffiti in the bathroom to a missing Harris County tax stamp on the photo booth he leases from a vendor (it has both State of Texas and City of Houston stamps, Cusack says).

    One inspector told Cusack he needed a food dealer’s permit. He showed the inspector that a food dealer’s permit had been issued for the restaurant's address under the former food truck’s LLC but not to the LLC that operates Betelgeuse Betelgeuse. Cusack says he had renewed the food truck’s permit in March, but that wasn’t good enough for the inspector. In Cusack’s telling, he was arrested for not having the permit, since it was also flagged as missing in an inspection from October 2025. He's the only person he knows who has ever been arrested for a misdemeanor violation of the health code.

    Cusack says he spent 21 hours in the Harris County Jail. When he got out, he says he was contacted by a more senior official within the Health Department. Once Cusack confirmed he owned both LLCs, he was told he could reopen. Both locations of Betelgeuse Betelgeuse have been operating normally since Friday, May 8.

    Cusack maintains he never knew about the October 2025 inspection, which is why he renewed the food dealer’s permit for the food truck’s LLC rather than applying for one under Betelgeuse Betelgeuse’s LLC. “There’s no paper trail that shows I was given this information,” he says. “I did not get the email [from the Health Department].”

    As for why things got so out of hand, Cusack theorizes he was a victim of Houston Mayor John Whitemire’s crack down on “reckless behavior” on Washington Avenue and stepped up enforcement on bars generally that led to the temporary closure of near northside cocktail bar Rabbit’s Got the Gun.

    Cusack says he’s a “huge supporter” of efforts to reduce crimes like street racing, drug dealing, and sex trafficking along Washington and in its surrounding neighborhoods. Still, he feels targeting by the city for being impolite to a health inspector.

    He plans to fight both the arrest and the citations in court. “I want the charges dropped, and I want it expunged completely from my record. That’s the first thing, and I’m going to try very hard to do it,” he says.

    “That’s going to end up costing thousands of dollars just to deal with the sheer volume,” he adds.

    CultureMap contacted Mayor Whitmire’s office. A representative said the mayor was not aware of the situation and has no comment on an open investigation.

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