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Inside the cathedral

Taste me if you can: Weedwacker, the first of Saint Arnold's new beer series,starts its fleeting run

Joel Luks
Aug 15, 2010 | 5:52 pm
  • Weedwacker, meet. Lawnmower. Lawnmower, meet ..
    Photo by Joel Luks
  • Definitely left. Definitely.
    Photo by Joel Luks
  • Lennie Ambrose, beer guru at Saint Arnold, is quick to share his passion.
    Photo by Joel Luks
  • Pious observance is recommended: Saint Arnold of Soissons, Patron Saint ofBrewers.
    Photo by Joel Luks
  • Bags and bags and bags of malt.
    Photo by Joel Luks
  • A captive audience learns all about Saint Arnold "Moveable Yeast" programfeaturing limited edition brews highlighting yeast's impact.
    Photo by Joel Luks

A place where yeast (and its movement) really matters isn't as hard to find as I thought.

Behaving like a 5-year-old is even easier. Saying yeast is often followed by a surge of self-containment, an effort not to giggle immaturely. I often fail miserably.

I surprised myself when I was successful recently, perhaps since I was in the presence of two esteemed CultureMap colleagues who obviously take their beer with pseudo-pious religiosity.

After all, this was a different type of yeast and I was ready to learn all about it.

I came to Saint Arnold Brewing Company to taste and to offer commentary. I had already exhibited my mischievous critiquing skills in a Heights Idol competition, I could handle beer, I thought.

The occasion? Beginning Monday, Saint Arnold will debut Weedwacker, the first of the “Moveable Yeast” series. Moving yeast? Will it dance?

Not quite, but you might after drinking a few brews.

“What we did is replace the yeast in our best-selling brew, Lawnmower, and replaced its Kolsch yeast with Bavarian Hefeweizen yeast,” Saint Arnold beer guru Lennie Ambrose explained. “That way, one can drink the two beers side by side and compare the effect yeast has on flavor.”

Beers that are meant to be enjoyed in pairs? Twin beers. From the same daddy, but more than slightly different.

Upon close inspection, Weedwacker is slightly cloudy, unfiltered au naturel, while Lawnmower is crystal clear. And their flavors? Astonishingly different.

Weedwacker’s has a golden smokey color coupled with a sweet and nutty aroma and a slight fruity and pleasant bouquet. Gentle banana flavors emerged peeling the complex tones with a clean finish. Surprisingly, considering Weedwacker’s shortened fermentation time of 10 days — Lawnmower requires two weeks — the beer's depth was titillating.

Possible food pairings? If you must, consider Weedwacker a lighter Heveweizen. It would compliment lighter seafood, pizzas, fruit and light deserts.

But that was only the start of my education on this pilgrimage.

Regretfully, I had never taken beer too seriously but upon entering the brewery, I knew this was no joking matter.

Opening the brewery's oversized monastery-like double iron doors, I was welcomed by a medieval apparition. Unaware of the behavioral decorum for interacting with him, I walked past him, only making the connection later: Behold Saint Arnold of Soissons, Patron Saint of Brewers.

A saint of the Roman Catholic Church?

Saint Arnie preached against drinking water due to contamination from the sewage system (which was more than primitive in his time) while asserting that "from man's sweat and God's love, beer came into the world."

Inside, we meet Ambrose, a veteran with Saint Arnold, who educated us about the components of beer: Water, yeast, malted barley and hops.

Whereas some breweries use not-so-pleasant additives — like isinglass, made from the swim bladders of fish or animal albumin, egg albumin and dried blood powder — Saint Arnold folks are purists.

Yeast has traditionally been the forgotten neglected step-child of beer ingredients. While most seem to play around with hops and malted barley, little attention is paid to the huge influence that yeast has on the flavor of beer.

We're all about to find out the difference. Fleetingly.

Weedwacker’s availability, like the fame of most American Idol winners, will come and go rather quickly. There are only 60 barrels and given a somewhat backwards law, Weedwacker’s whereabouts cannot be revealed by Saint Arnolds until its release on Monday.

Rumors tell us that our friends at Anvil Bar and Refuge, the Flying Saucer, Onion Creek, Cedar Creek, Rudyards and McGonigel’s Mucky Duck among others will carry the beer. Care to be current? Join the cool kids and follow @SaintArnold on twitter.

Lawnmower needs no introduction. Crisp and refreshing, its popularity rose in 2007 as gold medalist of the Great American Beer Festival. With citrus notes, the influence of the malt is more apparent here.

I noticed one of my tasting buddies was not finishing her share, so I volunteered to help out. What are friends for after all?

An expert's take:

unspecified
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Meet the man behind Houston's affordable new Chinese restaurant

CultureMap Staff
Jul 17, 2026 | 4:57 pm
Fortune Eight restaurant food spread
Photo by Clay Grier
Fortune Eight's menu includes dishes such beef with broccoli and mapo tofu.

On this week’s episode of “What’s Eric Eating,” CultureMap editor Eric Sandler talks to Allen Lin about Fortune Eight, his recently opened Chinese restaurant on Washington Avenue.



The conversation begins with Lin explaining how Covid restrictions and political turmoil in Hong Kong prompted him to close his four restaurants and relocate to Texas. Whereas his Hong Kong restaurants were full service, Fortune Eight is an affordable, fast casual concept.

“If I could do Chinese restaurants all over again, how could I streamline it so I wouldn’t have to be faced with so many inconsistencies in how we produce the food. I started looking at Chinese restaurants across America. Why is there only one restaurant that’s been able to do it on a wide basis? It’s Panda Express,” Lin says.

“I wondered if I could modernize Chinese food but make it with better ingredients. I wanted to create something that’s comfortable and familiar, but I want to elevate it a bit to make it taste better. You don’t feel so bloated and greasy afterwards. That’s what we’ve tried to focus and lean in on to create that consistency and taste.”

Towards that end, Fortune Eight uses automated cooking tools to saute the meats and vegetables in some of its dishes. Not only do these methods help Lin achieve the consistency he’s aiming for, they allow him to charge almost fast food level prices for Fortune Eight’s dishes. Diners can expect to pay about $13 for an entree, drink, and tax.

The tidy menu includes a greatest hits-style menu of Chinese and Chinese American fare, including Mongolian beef, beef with broccoli, walnut shrimp, sauteed green beans, chow mein, and, of course, General Tso’s chicken.

Listen to the full episode to hear more about Lin’s time in China. He also discusses his plans for marketing the restaurant and adding additional locations.

In this week’s other episode, Sandler and co-host Felice Sloan discuss the news of the week. Their topics include chef Justin Yu’s plans to open House of Louie in Montrose, Barnaby’s Cafe opening a new location in Garden Oaks, and Uptown Italian restaurant Tavola closing just shy of its three-year anniversary.



In the restaurant of the week segment, Sloan and Sandler share first impressions of Galaxy Pizza, chef Anthony Calleo’s neighborhood pizzeria in Spring. Both of them find a lot to like about the casual eatery, including its crispy crust and plentiful toppings.

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Subscribe to "What's Eric Eating" on Apple podcasts, Spotify, or wherever you listen to podcasts. Hear it Sunday at 8 am on ESPN 97.5.

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