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    Inside the cathedral

    Taste me if you can: Weedwacker, the first of Saint Arnold's new beer series,starts its fleeting run

    Joel Luks
    Aug 15, 2010 | 5:52 pm
    • Weedwacker, meet. Lawnmower. Lawnmower, meet ..
      Photo by Joel Luks
    • Definitely left. Definitely.
      Photo by Joel Luks
    • Lennie Ambrose, beer guru at Saint Arnold, is quick to share his passion.
      Photo by Joel Luks
    • Pious observance is recommended: Saint Arnold of Soissons, Patron Saint ofBrewers.
      Photo by Joel Luks
    • Bags and bags and bags of malt.
      Photo by Joel Luks
    • A captive audience learns all about Saint Arnold "Moveable Yeast" programfeaturing limited edition brews highlighting yeast's impact.
      Photo by Joel Luks

    A place where yeast (and its movement) really matters isn't as hard to find as I thought.

    Behaving like a 5-year-old is even easier. Saying yeast is often followed by a surge of self-containment, an effort not to giggle immaturely. I often fail miserably.

    I surprised myself when I was successful recently, perhaps since I was in the presence of two esteemed CultureMap colleagues who obviously take their beer with pseudo-pious religiosity.

    After all, this was a different type of yeast and I was ready to learn all about it.

    I came to Saint Arnold Brewing Company to taste and to offer commentary. I had already exhibited my mischievous critiquing skills in a Heights Idol competition, I could handle beer, I thought.

    The occasion? Beginning Monday, Saint Arnold will debut Weedwacker, the first of the “Moveable Yeast” series. Moving yeast? Will it dance?

    Not quite, but you might after drinking a few brews.

    “What we did is replace the yeast in our best-selling brew, Lawnmower, and replaced its Kolsch yeast with Bavarian Hefeweizen yeast,” Saint Arnold beer guru Lennie Ambrose explained. “That way, one can drink the two beers side by side and compare the effect yeast has on flavor.”

    Beers that are meant to be enjoyed in pairs? Twin beers. From the same daddy, but more than slightly different.

    Upon close inspection, Weedwacker is slightly cloudy, unfiltered au naturel, while Lawnmower is crystal clear. And their flavors? Astonishingly different.

    Weedwacker’s has a golden smokey color coupled with a sweet and nutty aroma and a slight fruity and pleasant bouquet. Gentle banana flavors emerged peeling the complex tones with a clean finish. Surprisingly, considering Weedwacker’s shortened fermentation time of 10 days — Lawnmower requires two weeks — the beer's depth was titillating.

    Possible food pairings? If you must, consider Weedwacker a lighter Heveweizen. It would compliment lighter seafood, pizzas, fruit and light deserts.

    But that was only the start of my education on this pilgrimage.

    Regretfully, I had never taken beer too seriously but upon entering the brewery, I knew this was no joking matter.

    Opening the brewery's oversized monastery-like double iron doors, I was welcomed by a medieval apparition. Unaware of the behavioral decorum for interacting with him, I walked past him, only making the connection later: Behold Saint Arnold of Soissons, Patron Saint of Brewers.

    A saint of the Roman Catholic Church?

    Saint Arnie preached against drinking water due to contamination from the sewage system (which was more than primitive in his time) while asserting that "from man's sweat and God's love, beer came into the world."

    Inside, we meet Ambrose, a veteran with Saint Arnold, who educated us about the components of beer: Water, yeast, malted barley and hops.

    Whereas some breweries use not-so-pleasant additives — like isinglass, made from the swim bladders of fish or animal albumin, egg albumin and dried blood powder — Saint Arnold folks are purists.

    Yeast has traditionally been the forgotten neglected step-child of beer ingredients. While most seem to play around with hops and malted barley, little attention is paid to the huge influence that yeast has on the flavor of beer.

    We're all about to find out the difference. Fleetingly.

    Weedwacker’s availability, like the fame of most American Idol winners, will come and go rather quickly. There are only 60 barrels and given a somewhat backwards law, Weedwacker’s whereabouts cannot be revealed by Saint Arnolds until its release on Monday.

    Rumors tell us that our friends at Anvil Bar and Refuge, the Flying Saucer, Onion Creek, Cedar Creek, Rudyards and McGonigel’s Mucky Duck among others will carry the beer. Care to be current? Join the cool kids and follow @SaintArnold on twitter.

    Lawnmower needs no introduction. Crisp and refreshing, its popularity rose in 2007 as gold medalist of the Great American Beer Festival. With citrus notes, the influence of the malt is more apparent here.

    I noticed one of my tasting buddies was not finishing her share, so I volunteered to help out. What are friends for after all?

    An expert's take:

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    meet the tastemakers

    Houston's 11 best chefs of 2026 are leading the city's rise to prominence

    Eric Sandler
    Apr 13, 2026 | 5:02 pm
    Felipe Riccio March
    Photo by Zachary Horst
    Felipe Riccio, March.

    We’ve reached the final category in the 2026 CultureMap Tastemaker Awards. These are the nominees for Chef of the Year.

    This year’s nominees are an accomplished group. They hold Michelin stars and received Bib Gourmand designations. They are James Beard Award semifinalists, finalists, and winners. They’ve competed on Top Chef.

    Of course they all serve consistently well-prepared dishes that keep diners coming back again and again. They’re also leaders and mentors who are guiding the next generation of cooks who will make their own mark on the dining scene. Many are involved in a number of local nonprofits, including I’ll Have What She’s Having and the Southern Smoke Foundation.

    Who will win? Find out this Thursday, April 16, at the Tastemaker Awards party at Silver Street Studios. We’ll dine on bites from this year’s nominated restaurants and sip cocktails from our sponsors before revealing the winners in our short and sweet ceremony.

    A limited number of tickets remain. Buy yours before they sell out.

    Here are the nominees for Chef of the Year:

    Benchawan Jabthong Painter, Street to Kitchen
    The first Houstonian to win the James Beard Award for Best Chef: Texas, Chef G, as she’s known to friends and supporters, continues to make Street to Kitchen one of Houston’s destination restaurants. Regular travels back home to Thailand inspire new dishes on the menu, and G has also embraced her inner Texan with a rotating selection of steaks and chops. Her warm personality also sets the tone for the friendly service diners can expect at Street to Kitchen.

    Evelyn Garcia and Henry Lu, Jūn
    The two friends and business partners have come a long way since their days of serving meals under a tent at area farmers markets. Now, they’re James Beard Award finalists for Best Chef: Texas, Top Chef alumni, and they successfully spun up a daytime concept, Third Place, that hosts the city’s most intriguing roster of pop-ups. If that weren’t enough, they released debuted Loaded Potatoes, a new podcast that showcases their distinct perspectives on food and culture.

    Felipe Riccio, March
    As the leader of Houston’s one-star, Mediterranean-inspired tasting menu restaurant, Riccio leads the ultra-ambitious team that changes its entire menu twice per year. Not only does this effort require extensive research, training, and preparation, it only requires the discipline necessary to execute at a consistently high level to meet the expectations of diners who are fully aware of the restaurant’s lofty reputation.

    Jassi Bindra, Amrina/Kitchen Rumors
    Houstonians already knew Bindra could execute fine dining cuisine based on his success at Amrina, but the chef also showcased his adeptness with casual fare at twin concepts Bol and Pok Pok Po. He dialed up the creativity at Kitchen Rumors, bringing Indian flavors to everything from pot roast to ramen. Although his Top Chef experience came to an abrupt end in only this season’s second episode, he’ll remain a local chef whose future projects will always be worth sampling.

    Lucas McKinney, Josephine's
    Already a winner of Rising Star Chef of the Year, McKinney steps into Chef of the Year consideration after leading Josephine’s to a Recommended designation in the Michelin Guide. The inspectors praises dishes like the crab fat rice bowl and shrimp po’ boy, but they neglected to include McKinney’s world-class crawfish. That just means more for us.

    Manabu Horiuchi, Katami/Kata Robata/Sushi Horiuchi
    Known to all as Hori-san, your favorite chef’s favorite chef is riding higher than ever. Katami, his ode to contemporary Japanese fine dining, quickly established itself as one of Houston’s most sought after reservations and earned the chef a James Beard Award semifinalist nomination for America's best chef. More recently, he opened Sushi Horiuchi, a six-seat omakase counter that gives diners an even most personal experience. While diners should certainly engage with him about the dishes they’re eating, we also suggest asking him about his favorite karaoke songs.

    Mayank Istwal, Musaafer
    As the leader of Houston’s only Michelin-starred Indian fine dining restaurant, Istwal oversees an impressive restaurant that offers both a la carte and tasting menus. With Musaafer’s recent expansion to New York City, he’s also the only nominee to be dividing his time between two cities. Thankfully, he’s built a strong team who can ensure Musaafer remains consistent even when he’s in the Big Apple.

    Nick Wong, Agnes and Sherman
    Known for leading UB Preserv to a best new restaurant award from Texas Monthly, Wong returned to the kitchen with this Asian American diner in the Heights, which also earned best new restaurant nods from both Texas Monthly and finalist status in the James Beard Awards. The wide-ranging menu applies his unique perspective to everything from fried chicken and club sandwiches to egg foo young and pasta bolognese — made with Korean rice dumplings, natch. While his commitment to make Agnes and Sherman a good place to work is certainly worthy of respect, he deserves this nomination simply for introducing Houston to cheeseburger fried rice.

    Shawn Gawle, Camaraderie
    A former Pastry Chef of the Year winner for his work at Goodnight Hospitality, Gawle has been showing off his savory chops at this restaurant in the Heights. The restaurant’s prix fixe menu reflects the style of dining Gawle enjoys the most, where friends share a meal and conversation. Recently, the chef has been inviting guest chefs such as Rebecca Mason and Raffi Nasr in for can’t-miss collabs.

    Thomas Bille, Belly of the Beast
    As the winner of Best Chef: Texas in the 2025 James Beard Awards and a Bib Gourmand designation in the Michelin Guide, Belly of the Beast no longer qualifies as a hidden gem. Still, Bille isn’t resting on his laurels. He added a tasting menu to Belly of the Beast’s offerings and continues to roll out new dishes that explore the intersection of Mexican flavors with other immigrant cuisines.

    ----

    The Tastemaker Awards ceremony is sponsored in Houston by Maker's Mark, Culinary Khancepts, Herradura Tequila, Ritual Zero Proof + Seedlip, Shutto, NXT LVL EVENT, and more to be announced. A portion of proceeds will benefit our nonprofit partner, the Southern Smoke Foundation.

    Felipe Riccio March
    Photo by Zachary Horst
    Felipe Riccio, March.
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