Katy is getting some foodie cred.
Veteran high-end chef Jose Hernandez has opened up his own restaurant in Cinco Ranch. At La Balance Cuisine, the pastry chef whose stops have included Philippe, Triniti and (briefly) Etoile, is working to create an intimate, stylish spot that serves a menu of classic French dishes.
"It's been my dream to have my own restaurant for a long time," Hernandez tells CultureMap. "One day I received a call from a friend telling me about this space. I looked at the area, made my own business plan, (checked my) balance in the bank and decided to make this happen."
"The biggest lesson I've learned throughout my whole career is never to settle."
Inside, a large wine rack dominates one wall of the white tablecloth covered dining room. A few cafe tables sit on the sidewalk. Valet-phobes rejoice. La Balance's ample lot means there's finally a French restaurant in town with close parking and no one with his hand out for moving a car 10 feet.
While the menu may seem boring to foodie types who are obsessed with chasing the next new thing, my group of four Inner Loopers left very impressed after sampling several dishes on Saturday night. Highlights included a house-made charcuterie plate that featured both duck sausage and duck terrine. Among the mains, our favorite was a fork-tender beef bourguignon served with fresh vegetables in its own rich braising liquid.
As expected given the acclaim Hernandez earned for his desserts at Triniti, his chocolate souffle had a crispy crust, soft interior and utterly decadent chocolate sauce.
For now, Hernandez wants guests to familiarize themselves with his menu. Later on, "we will create a tasting menu using some ingredients that are in season and locally grown/made," he says.
With high rents driving out well-established spots, perhaps La Balance represents a new trend of chef-driven concepts that are opening in places that are friendlier to less well-financed operations. Although that plan didn't work for former Samba Grille chef David Guerrero with Peruvian restaurant Alma, diners' greater familiarity with French cuisine, as well as La Balance's more residential location, may help this restaurant find an audience.
"The biggest lesson I've learned throughout my whole career is never to settle," Hernandez says. Now in Cinco Ranch, diners don't have to either.
Inside La Balance Cuisine
