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Food Hall News

New underground downtown dining palace heats up Houston's hot food hall boom

Eric Sandler
Aug 10, 2018 | 9:32 am

How many food halls can downtown Houston support? Three are already slated to join Conservatory: Finn Hall, which will feature a mix of first-time concepts and new locations of popular concepts like Dish Society and Goode Company; Bravery Chef Hall, where chefs will cook in front of diners; and Lyric Market, which is being curated by chef Charles Clark and his business partner Grant Cooper (Brasserie 19, Coppa Osteria, etc).

Add the Capitol Tower to the list. Real estate development and construction firm Skanska has enlisted Austin’s Michael Hsu Office of Architecture (Uchi, Hunky Dory) to help it develop a food-oriented concept for the tunnel level of the 35-story, LEED certified office building.

Understory, a name Hsu suggested due to both its literal meaning as “the lively space between the forest canopy and the underbrush” as well as its recognition that the space is under the ground level of the building, will offer a full service restaurant, seven chef-driven food counters, and a cocktail bar. Located at 800 Capitol St., formerly the site of the Houston Club building, the prime location in the heart of downtown’s central business district offers five points of tunnel access. While that should ensure steady lunch business for all of Understory’s restaurants, Skanska intends for it to be a destination of evenings and weekends, too.

“It’s really a public place that more than people in the building can enjoy, Matt Damborsky, executive vice president for Skanska USA Commercial Development in Houston, tells CultureMap. “We are seeing downtown, it’s definitely changing very rapidly with more residents. We’re located next to the Theater District. We hope to have patons come before or after a show.”

To achieve that goal, the building will have prominent signage at the street level to lure visitors in (most of the tunnels are closed on evenings and weekends). In additions, Understory will need to recruit the sort of operators who will make the space a food hall and not a food court. While the company isn’t ready to reveal any names, they’re targeting the right kind of concepts to make the space a draw.

“Most of the engagement we’ve had so far are chefs with one or two locations, a couple are from outside the city of Houston,” Damborsky says. “We’re looking for a diverse mix of options. Later he adds, “As we investigate different chefs and their concepts, we’re trying to make it a mix that will appeal to a wide variety of people.”

One thing is certain — the place will look good. Skanska’s announcement touts design features that include “artist murals, copper-clad kitchen hoods, wooden butcher block countertops and white marble.” Skanska’s goal is that the space becomes an important part of downtown.

“We’re trying to create more than a place to eat,” Damborsky says. “We want to partner with the visual and performing arts for more than food. In the end, we want it to be a place for people who are visiting Houston to go see and go visit.”

Michael Hsu has ambitious plans for Understory's design.

Capitol Tower Understory culinary market
Courtesy of Skanska
Michael Hsu has ambitious plans for Understory's design.
news-you-can-eat downtown openings
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we gotta go

Beard-winning Houston chef shares first details of new Montrose restaurant

Eric Sandler
Jul 13, 2026 | 11:52 am
House of Louie
Photo by Kirsten Gilliam
Pasta and cold seafood will be on the menu at House of Louie.

Houston hospitality veterans Bobby Heugel and chef Justin Yu are sharing more details about House of Louie, their new neighborhood restaurant that’s opening this summer in the former Vibrant space at 1931 Fairview Ave. It’s the duo’s first new restaurant since opening Squable in 2019.

Almost a year after announcing their plans for the project, chef Yu, a James Beard Award winner and Food & Wine Best New Chef honoree, shares in press materials that the restaurant’s name and spirit takes inspiration from an establishment operated by his aunts, Betty Louie and Josephine Yeung, for over 30 years in the Los Angeles area.

“House of Louie was how I fell in love with restaurants. There was a magic there,” Yu said in a statement. “It was always a happy place for me, and for all its guests who came from all around the Los Angeles area to go to it. It was just one of those restaurants where it was exactly what you wanted, when you wanted it, but also a restaurant that gave you more than you expected.”

Yu describes the menu as having a “French-Italian soul” that will also incorporate “the smirk of Modern American cooking,” which allows the chef to sidestep criticisms of whether or not his food is a sufficiently authentic version of those two culinary traditions. As with Theodore Rex, his downtown restaurant that holds a Bib Gourmand designation in the Michelin Guide, dishes at House of Louie will be defined by well-sourced ingredients and delicate saucework.

Meals at the restaurant could begin with dishes such as salads or raw seafood items, including yellowtail alla scapece (cured in chardonnay vinegar) or spot shrimp marinated in Pernod with bergamot and fennel pollen. Pastas, which will be in-house, include a fried lasagna with ragu bianco and Comte cheese fondue. Entrees include roast duck and chicken brined with house-made giardiniera, the spicy topping typically associated with Italian beef sandwiches. Of course, vegetables will be well-represented throughout the menu.

Bobby Heugel, Yu’s partner in the Thorough Fare Co. hospitality group and the founder of bars such as Anvil and Refuge, is overseeing the bar’s cocktail program. Expect martinis galore and seasonal cocktails made with Gulf Coast ingredients. One example is the The Fair View, a riff on the classic Rome with a View made with local roselle hibiscus, Becherovka, dry sherry, and gen tian tea, that’s finished with sparkling wine and pineapple.

The duo aren’t ready to share interior photos, but they describe the renovations as a “simple remake” that enlisted support from local craftspeople including Garnish Design (Milton’s, Tiny Champions), ObjektFab, and Ford Design Finishes. “Just like when you cook a beautiful piece of fish or a carrot that was cared for as it was grown, you do just enough to something beautiful to make it yours,” Yu added.

Joining the project are general manager Tyler Jay Wang, whose resume includes acclaimed Boston establishments No 9 Park and Drink, and executive chef Kirk Thompson, who worked for various Underbelly Hospitality concepts and served as the executive chef at Leo’s River Oaks when it won Best New Restaurant in the 2025 CultureMap Tastemaker Awards.

House of Louie will be open daily for dinner. Friday lunch and weekend brunch service will be added in the future.

House of Louie

Photo by Kirsten Gilliam

Pasta and cold seafood will be on the menu at House of Louie.

news-you-can-eat openings chefs house of louie
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