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    Hot fun in the summertime

    Iced tea and Stacey Kent's cool jazz soothes souls steeped too long in Houston’sheat

    Leslie Loddeke
    Aug 1, 2011 | 3:33 pm
    • Stacey Kent, jazz singer extraordinaire
    • How do you keep your cool in this extraordinary heat? A refreshing glass of teaalways helps.

    Easygoing Houstonians are accustomed to accepting hot temperatures with aplomb and even appreciation, but the Summer of ’11 will surely be remembered for its challenges to the most congenial among us.

    All over town, drought-stricken water mains have been bursting, cracking the concrete and creating geysers in the middle of the streets, accompanied by traffic jams. Exhausted air conditioners and overheated vehicles are dying unnatural deaths, setting body temperatures and tempers on “Broil.”

    How do you keep your cool in this extraordinary heat? Do you have a special solution for an instant cool-down?

    Iced tea and cool jazz: that’s my recipe for Instant Cool this summer. My two-part recipe is deceptively simple, and always rewarding. It consists of: (1) my special, super-cooling concoction of fresh-brewed iced tea, and (2) jazz vocalist Stacey Kent’s equally delicious, fresh new CD, Raconte-moi, which I discovered via a recent National Public Radio interview.

    I could hardly wait to order this CD after hearing National Public Radio host Jacki Lyden’s wonderful interview with Kent, entitled “An American Jazz Diva Plays French Chanteuse.” In the interview, which features links to two songs from her CD, the silky-voiced vocalist provides the fascinating back story on some of the songs she sings, all in French, including the romantic title song, “Raconte-moi” (“Tell me.”)

    The minute I put on this CD after swimming home through palpable waves of radiating heat, I sigh in relief and smile. I swear I feel at least 10 degrees cooler, listening to the opening bars of the first song. I have a whole new appreciation of the term “cool jazz.”

    Listen to the NPR interview with Stacey Kent:

    Adobe Flash Required for flash player.

    That’s Part I. Part II follows immediately thereafter, when I proceed to the kitchen and brew a quart of fresh iced tea. Instead of the standard American brew, I use a combination of Tazo “Refresh” and “Zen” teabags: two each. Both types contain spearmint leaves — the secret to their cooling effect. Only one, “Zen,” contains any caffeine; however, it’s minimal, due to the use of green rather than black tea.

    If I feel I can wait a little while longer to satisfy my parched throat, and want to create a special blend of flavors, I’ll make my iced tea from scratch, unless I already have some waiting for me in a pitcher in the refrigerator. I assemble an herbal and/or green-tea concoction from a broad selection of flavors and types of loose tea that I’ve accumulated from Central Market and Whole Foods Market.

    I start with a base of spearmint leaves, which I pour into the bottom half of a stainless-steel mesh tea ball, to mid-level. Then I add my favored flavor du jour, like top-of-the-line Rishi-brand citron oolong or lemongrass mélange. They both have an alluring scent, lovely little flower buds, and a deliciously smooth, light taste.

    Sometimes I diversify with a more vivid topping (for example, peach vanilla mint), or simplify with citrus green tea. It’s fun to experiment with new flavors and scents, and you’re not going to break the bank by getting a sample of several, using the tiny plastic bags on hand for this purpose in the tea section.

    Recently, I got a little carried away in that section at Central Market. I poured over a third of a pound of absolutely scrumptious-smelling spearmint leaves into a bigger plastic bag I found after scouting around a bit in the Bulk section. Guess how much I spent. That bag weighed in at less than $3.

    Even at the accelerated rate at which I drink iced tea these record-hot days, my inexpensive store of spearmint will carry me through this summer and likely the next, as well. Another great point about self-admitted Tea Greed is that you're filling up on fluid, not food. What you really want in this heat is to be refreshed, to feel lighter.

    It’s amazing how clean and pure the water in iced tea tastes when you start with water filtered through a Brita pitcher. For the same reasons, I boil the water and pour it over the tea bags, or the mesh ball containing my favored loose tea mix du jour, into a heat-resistant glass pitcher. Let the tea steep for a few minutes. Then pour over ice cubes (made from filtered water) into a heat-resistant glass; I use an 8-inch tall, thick glass mug. Voila! Instant Cool.

    Trying out different flavors of tea in the Bulk section of a store is like trying out new perfume scents, except most of these scents are more subtle, so your ability to differentiate isn’t ruined after sniffing several. People who observe me often ask me to tell them which are “the best,” explaining, “You look like you know what you’re doing.”

    I always tell them it’s a matter of personal taste, and suggest they do what I’m doing. Pick up a jar or tin of loose tea whose name strikes you as appealing; shake it a bit; take off the lid; and smell the fragrance that is emitted. That’s the best way to get a good idea of how it’s going to taste, and whether it will please your particular palate. (Actually, brand is important too, but that's a whole different seminar that will hold until we hit the cold-weather months.)

    Until this long, particularly hot summer, my traditional summer heat remedy was always to find an unending source of standard, fresh-brewed iced tea and keep pouring it down my throat. However, I’ve found that while, like most Houstonians, I love the flavor of orange-pekoe iced tea, I can only drink so much of it before caffeine overload sets in and I start feeling jittery. Also, I want something that is going to taste cool to the tongue, and give me a real sense of refreshment.

    For me, that starts with the color green, as in spearmint. I think, like me, you’ll feel much more relaxed and cool if you choose natural herbal and green tea flavors, whether you use loose tea or tea bags for your iced tea.

    Try your own creative combination of iced tea flavors and cool jazz some hot summer day. It’s especially nice to look forward to a chilled pitcher of your favorite blend, waiting for you in the refrigerator, after coming home from your gym workout or an especially challenging drive home from work.

    Speaking of which, right now, I’m sipping a cool green tea blend, and starting to feel as relaxed as Stacey Kent looks in the image on the NPR website as I listen to her sing “Les eaux des mars” — which you, too, can hear, via the link that NPR generously provided on the interview page. Délicieuse!

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    Rising Star

    Houston restaurateur dishes on swapping Tex-Mex for new retro steakhouse

    Eric Sandler
    Feb 27, 2026 | 11:15 am
    Star Rover exterior
    Photo by Eric Sandler
    Star Rover is now open in the Heights.

    Restaurateur Ford Fry surprised Houston diners when he announced in January that he was closing his Tex-Mex restaurant Superica and replacing it with Star Rover, a casual, family-friendly steakhouse. With Star Rover now open for dinner and weekend brunch, Fry — who also owns Star Rover's neighbor La Lucha, casual taqueria Little Rey, and River Oaks fine dining restaurant State of Grace — explains that the decision came down to both economics and his own desire to provide the Heights with something he thought was lacking.

    “This was our smallest Superica. Superica for us takes so much — every day you’re making salsas, tortillas, it’s so prep heavy,” Fry says. “We weren’t big enough to be that successful. We didn’t have enough seats to make the labor make sense.”

    Rather than compete against Houston’s seemingly limitless roster of Tex-Mex restaurants, Fry saw an opportunity for a steakhouse that occupied a space somewhere between chains like Texas Roadhouse and Outback and fine dining staples like Pappas Bros. Enter Star Rover, which already has a popular location in Nashville.

    Just as La Lucha channels Fry’s childhood memories of the San Jacinto Inn, Star Rover takes some inspiration from iconic Houston restaurant Hofbrau. Diners of a certain age will see places like Hofbrau in the restaurant’s design. The walls are adorned with framed pictures, taxidermy, vintage advertising, and more.

    “The inspiration is if you were some old Texas dude who wanted to start a steakhouse you’d find a bunch of crap and put it on the walls,” Fry says. “We want to make it cool, but it’s got to take you away from what it was. Did we achieve that? I hope so.”

    Fry tasked chef Bobby Matos with updating the Star Rover menu for Houston. It starts with a selection of steaks — chopped, filet, T-bone, ribeye, or skirt — along with a half-chicken, blackened redfish, and chicken fried chicken. All of them come with milk rolls, salad, fries, and onion rings. Diners who want a little surf and turf can add either a crab cake or a fried lobster tail.

    The appetizer menu is similarly tidy, consisting of shrimp cocktail, oysters (raw or fried), potato skins, and vegetable crudités. Desserts include a selection of pies as well as soft serve ice cream.

    Since the steaks are thinner than those served at upscale steakhouses, they’re cooked hot and fast on a plancha and basted in butter.

    “We control the costs by the size of the meat,” Fry explains. “Meat is so expensive, how do you do a family-friendly steakhouse? It’s a 12-ounce ribeye and it’s choice. We put the right amount of age on it.”

    Tucked away in the corner of the menu is text that reads “Cheeseburger?! Just ask!” People should, because it’s a hearty half-pound, New York tavern-style burger that sits on grilled onions, is topped with cheese and mayonnaise, and is served on a classic potato bun. Think of it as the thick-patty counterpart to La Lucha’s thin-patty Pharmacy Burger.

    “I call it a lowbrow steakhouse burger,” Fry says. “It’s not a Peter Luger, but it may be better and it won’t cost as much.”

    Star Rover’s weekend brunch menu features the same pancakes that had been a staple at Superica. They’re joined by some new items, including baked-to-order cinnamon rolls, breakfast tacos, and kolaches that use sausage from Houston’s Roegels Barbecue Co.

    Star Rover exterior

    Photo by Eric Sandler

    Star Rover is now open in the Heights.

    The restaurant has one other old-school touch in the form of an eating challenge called the “I Ate the 76er.” Available with 24 hours notice, diners who finish a 76-ounce steak, milk rolls, salad, onion rings, and fries in under an hour will receive the meal for free, plus a t-shirt and the opportunity to sign a winners’ wall. The challenge reflects the spirit Fry is bringing to Star Rover.

    “A lot of it is scratching that itch of something fun I want to do versus what I think the neighborhood will like,” he says. “We did a version of this in Nashville with a stage. It’s where I eat when I’m in Nashville, because it’s what I want to eat when I’m there.”

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