Tastemaker Winners Revealed

Houston's best restaurant, chef, and more unveiled at 2021 Tastemaker Awards

Presenting the winners of the 2021 CultureMap Tastemaker Awards. Presented at a lively ceremony on Thursday, July 22 by Houston hip hop legend Bun B, our judges panel of restaurant industry experts selected these establishments and individuals as the very best of Houston’s culinary scene in every category except Best New Restaurant, which was voted on by CultureMap readers.

Collectively, they set high standards in all they do, from making delicious food and drinks to creating a welcoming atmosphere in their spaces. Like many of their peers, they faced the challenges of a global pandemic head on and took the steps necessary to keep both employees and patrons safe.

While it’s certainly important to recognize the winners, let’s acknowledge another important truth. The world of Houston restaurants has so much talent that any of the finalists in any of the categories would have been a worthy winner. It is truly an honor to be nominated.

Hearty congratulations to all of this year’s winners. We can’t wait for next year.

Restaurant of the Year: Nobie’s
With its five year anniversary rapidly approaching, this award acknowledges something that’s been true for awhile. Sara and Martin Stayer’s Montrose restaurant is one of Houston’s finest dining establishments. From its eclectic menu to its creative cocktails and all-vinyl soundtrack, Nobie’s succeeds because its staff takes their work seriously without taking themselves too seriously. If it's been awhile since that last visit, follow the restaurant's instructions to "get high and stop on by."

Chef of the Year: Kaitlin Steets, Littlefoot/Theodore Rex
Fresh off a James Beard Award semifinalist nomination for Rising Star Chef of the Year in 2020, Steets demonstrated the breadth of her talent with Littlefoot, the French-inspired pop-up that took over Theodore Rex for three months earlier this year. Her precise technique and high regard for ingredients have served her well at both restaurants. As T. Rex owner Justin Yu has commented previously, Steets is ready for her own restaurant; hopefully, she opens it in Houston.

Best New Restaurant: Xin Chào
Chefs Christine Ha and Tony Nguyen’s modern take on Vietnamese comfort food prevailed through four rounds of voting in the Best New Restaurant tournament. More than the strength of Ha’s devoted social media following — the former Masterchef winner has over 100,000 followers on Instagram — this award recognizes that Xin Chào has provided a fresh perspective on one of Houston’s favorite cuisines. Adding smoked elements to dishes like shaking beef and duck salad gives them added depth of flavor, while creative cocktails provide plenty of pairing options.

Rising Star Chef of the Year: AJ Ede, Brasil
This experienced chef has reinvigorated the beloved Montrose institution by utilizing some fine dining techniques to enhance the cafe’s casual fare. While customers don’t necessarily need to understand the fine points of fermentation or learn the names of the farms that supply his ingredients to appreciate the sheer deliciousness of what Ede and his team are turning out, he’s happy to explain when someone asks. The chef is also committed to helping his cooks grow as professionals by teaching them techniques that will make it easier for them to advance in their careers and encouraging them to add specials to the menu.

Best Pop-up/Startup: Josh Deleon, Underground Creamery
Not that these frozen treats need more attention — Deleon sells out his weekly production of 300 pints almost instantly — but no other ice cream maker in Houston producers flavors quite like Underground Creamery. Whether it’s salted vanilla with strawberry swirl and graham crunch, brown sugar ice cream with salted caramel swirl and Oreos, or any of his other creations, Deleon’s ice creams always offer an intriguing mix of textures and flavors. Yes, the ordering process can be frustrating, but perhaps this award will inspire Deleon to keep growing until his creations are available to a wider audience.

Pastry Chef of the Year: Drew Gimma, Bread Man Baking Co.
From Common Bond to Better Luck Tomorrow to Squable to Bread Man, Gimma has earned a reputation for taking bread seriously. In his role as Bread Man’s director of operations, Gimma oversees production that provides freshly baked loaves to Whole Foods stores across Texas as well as the company’s myriad restaurant clients. He’ll face an even bigger challenge when the bakery relocates to a massive, 40,000-square-foot facility later this year, but we suspect he’ll do just fine. After all, he's been preparing his entire professional life for this sort of challenge.

Wine Program of the Year: Squable
Originally started by sommelier Justin Vann, general manager Terry Williams now oversees Squable’s wine list. Initially, the restaurant only offered European and North American selections, but Williams has been adding Australian and South African wines to match changes in chef Mark Clayton’s menu. Of course, the best way to sample the selections is Monday-Friday from 4-6 pm when all alcoholic beverages are half-off.

Bartender of the Year: Alphonso Quiñones, Tiny Champions
The veteran bartender has brought his customer-first approach to this new restaurant from the team behind Nancy’s Hustle. Quiñones has embraced restaurant life by frequently working with the kitchen to make cocktail ingredients. In addition, his interests in using amaro and incorporating tropical flavors can be found throughout the restaurant’s cocktail offerings. For example, consider the Club Tropicana that incorporates both amaro and a grapefruit and passionfruit swizzle.

Bar of the Year: Heights Bier Garten
Among all of Houston’s patio bars, Heights Bier Garten stands out in many ways. First, it’s expansive and lush patio offers the feeling of escape from a crowded city. Second, it’s extensive selection of wine, beer, cocktails and spirits transcends similar establishments. A creative food menu elevates the typical pub grub with plenty of vegetarian dishes and scratch made sandwiches.

Neighborhood Restaurant of the Year: Candente
Entering the world of Tex-Mex can be tricky for a new restaurant; after all, every Houstonian already has strong opinions about their favorite places for enchiladas, fajitas, and margaritas. But a similar barrier didn’t stop proprietor Michael Sambrooks from getting into barbecue with The Pit Room, and the same approach that made it successful have translated to Candente. Specifically, the elements of success are: use great quality ingredients, cook them consistently, and deliver good value. Sounds simple, but successfully executing the formula has made Candente a hit.

Restaurant of the Year: Nobie's.

Photo by Jack Thompson

Restaurant of the Year: Nobie's.

tastemakers

Soup spoon season

10 Houston chefs share 15 top soups that offer comfort and sustenance

Photo by Louis Lamson Quy

Louis Lamson Quy, co-owner of Alora, is a loyal diner at Phanh Ky thanks to its Hủ Tiếu Nam Vang, which reminds him of his hometown, Saigon.

Happy soup season to all who celebrate. The weather has finally dipped low enough in Houston that diners can enjoy a hearty bowl of soup without breaking a sweat. With so many delicious selections at Houston restaurants, we turned to Houston's chef and other restaurant industry experts to find out which brothy creations are worth seeking out.

The only rule? No one could nominate a soup from their own restaurant. Here’s what they had to say.

Dana East, line cook, Uchi Houston

To Dana East of Uchi Houston, the caldo de res at Ruchi Mexican Grille’s Reliant Stadium location “feels like home to me… Even though I’m not Mexican.”

“The caldo de res at that specific Ruchi's tastes like it was made in a Mexican grandmother's kitchen, or like soups that I would eat for family meal that kitchens I work in would make when everybody is sick during the winter,” she says.

East also recommends the Bogotano at Mi Pueblito, a soup made with three kinds of potatoes that she says “imbue a smoky flavor in it that is borderline addictive.”

“I could eat an entire pot of that stuff,” she says. “They serve it with fresh cream and capers that take it to the next level.”

Garrett Rice, owner, Bayou Butchers

The cream of crab soup at Loch Bar is a highlight that Garrett Rice of Bayou Butchers looks forward to after work.

“It’s a simple dish that lets a really good ingredient shine, and they certainly don’t shy away from the crab in true Baltimore fashion,” Rice says. “With Loch Bar’s kitchen open late, I can always count on a cup of crab soup waiting for me after a long shift.”

German Mosquera, executive chef, Long Weekend

When German Mosquera of Long Weekend wants ramen, he heads to Mensho, the Japan-based chain that just opened its second Houston-area location on the border of River Oaks and Montrose.

“For me, it’s all about the broth,” he says. “Mensho’s tori paitan has a rich, velvety texture and incredible umami flavor from start to finish. The perfectly jammy egg adds another layer of richness that keeps me coming back. I also love the intimate Tokyo-style counter seating. It makes for an authentic ramen experience.”

Kerry Pauly, owner, KP’s Kitchen

The matzo ball soup at Kenny and Ziggy’s is “in a league of its own,” according to Kerry Pauly of KP’s Kitchen. He describes it as “rich, flavorful, and pure comfort whether you’re sick or feeling great.”

Louis Lamson Quy, co-owner, Alora

“My favorite go-to spot for soup has always been Phanh Ky,” says Louis Lamson Quy of Alora, a Peruvian-Vietnamese fusion restaurant in Montrose. “They specialize in hủ tiếu nam vang, a noodle dish with roots tracing back to Teochew Chinese immigrants in Phnom Penh, Cambodia. It’s also one of the most popular noodle dishes in my hometown, Saigon, so it always feels a little like home to me.

“To me, Phanh Ky is one of the OGs in the game,” he adds. “I first tried it when I moved to Houston nine years ago, and I’ve been coming back ever since. There’s just something comforting about a place that stays consistent after all these years.”

Maria Christie, operator and general manager, Christie’s Seafood and Steaks

“I love, love the lemon chicken soup at Harry’s,” says Maria Christie of Christie’s Seafood and Steaks. "For me the soup at Harry’s reminds me of the way my mom would make the lemon soup.”

“And the lentil soup (at Anonymous Cafe) is really hearty and it just reminds me of cold winter days (whenever we get those in Houston!),” she adds. “It’s absolutely perfect because it has a hint of tomato in it. Deeeelicious!”

Her sister, Kathy Christie, who serves as Christie's director of catering, is a fan of Little Pappasito's chicken tortilla soup. “Whenever you are under the weather, it totally hits the spot,” Kathy says. She adds extra lime to hers.

Nicole Routhier, partner and culinary ambassador, Le Colonial

The bun bo hue at Pho Quynh, a small Vietnamese restaurant located inside 99 Ranch Market, is a year round must for Nicole Routhier of Le Colonial.

“Their spicy, deeply flavorful broth is super comforting and among the best in town. The chef is generous with the noodles and toppings of tender beef brisket, pork shank, gio Hue (steamed pork sausage with black peppercorns), and blood pudding. The soup comes with a side of shaved cabbage, crunchy bean sprouts, Vietnamese mint (rau ram), and a wedge of lime to be added to the soup as you eat. Two tiny containers of fermented shrimp sauce (mam tom) and spicy chili oil are also provided so you can add even more umami to the soup,” Routhier says. “Bun bo hue is a full meal on its own, and my idea of heaven in a bowl.”

Oscar Juarez, founder and owner, Make It Nice Hospitality

The pozole verde at Cuchara is a simple and flavorful dish that private chef Oscar Juarez of Make It Nice Hospitality says he would recommend to anyone.

“The broth has a nice balance of richness and acidity, and it’s just one of those dishes that’s comforting without being too heavy,” Juarez says. “Growing up with Mexican food, I have a real appreciation for dishes like this.”

Rafael Nasr, founder, Craft Pita

Rafael Nasr of Craft Pita says he has “a burning passion for North China’s sizzling rice soup.”

He describes it as an intensely flavored, crystal-clear broth with bits of pork and tiny shrimp to fill you up.

“The carrot, napa cabbage, and wood ear mushrooms add umami and I am convinced have healing powers,” he says. “The flash fried rice adds texture and flavor at the same time and whether served table side or at home provide dinner and a show. I eat this soup and talk about it more than any soup in Houston.”

Nasr’s pro tip: Add a bit of soy sauce and lots of North China’s housemade green chili oil to the soup.

Ziggy Gruber, chef and owner, Kenny & Ziggy’s

Ziggy Gruber of Kenny & Ziggy’s has a couple of favorite soups in town, which isn’t surprising since his own deli is known for its bowl selection. Among his favorites is the clam chowder at Capital Grille, which he says captures the true flavor of the East Coast with plenty of clams and just the right amount of thyme.

He also loves the French onion soup at Etoile Cuisine et Bar.

“The stock is very rich and the onions are extracted so the flavor is permeated throughout the soup. I like that it has multiple croutons rather than one crouton in the soup,” he says. “And then the cheese on top!”

Another top pick for Ziggy is the tortilla soup at Grace’s.“It is complicated in such a good way, with the crunchy bits of tortillas and chicken skin, with the coolness of the avocado, and it has just the right amount of spice,” he says.

$Phanh Ky H\u1ee7 Ti\u1ebfu Nam Vang,$

Photo by Louis Lamson Quy

Louis Lamson Quy, co-owner of Alora, is a loyal diner at Phanh Ky thanks to its Hủ Tiếu Nam Vang, which reminds him of his hometown, Saigon.

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