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    Beer Crusaders

    Fighting for the fourth tier: New craft beer advocacy group is on aconsumer-driven suds mission

    Caroline Gallay
    Jul 22, 2011 | 6:39 am

    When House Bills 660 and 602 were killed (or died of inertia) in the last legislative session, Texas craft beer lovers were disheartened, but not defeated.

    Although craft breweries and industry leaders had banded together with organizations like Texas Beer Freedom, distribution companies and pig-headed proponents of the unadulterated three-tier system managed to stall the measures, which would have alleviated what some call Texas' restrictive atmosphere for small brewing businesses.

    Now, for the first time, a consumer-sided advocacy group has been born. Founded by a collection of Houston craft beer activists including Lushtastic's Leslie Sprague, Ted Duschesne of the beer blog Barley Vine, Cathy Clark Rascoe of the beer blog Brewtiful and home brewers Chris White and John Speights, Open the Taps aims to unify consumers, tackle restrictive legislation and affect change at the polls.

    I met up with Sprague and Rascoe at a Ladies of Craft Beer happy hour at the Ginger Man to toast to long-term goals and gauge the response so far.

    OTT's goals are many, and they're ambitious: To legalize dock sales, to knock down the limitations on brewpubs' production, to allow brewpubs to sell their wares on store shelves, to reform labeling laws for easier access to out-of-state brews, and ultimately, to hire a lobbyist to make all these things happen.

    "Before the next legislative session, we want to know what representatives are for us and who are against us," says Sprague, who is handling OTT's communications and social media and whose phone has been blowing up since the non-profit debuted on July 16.

    Sprague said she had worried about the level of support outside the close-knit, somewhat insular craft beer community, but she's not worried anymore. "It's insane who is showing and how many people have shown support," she says.

    Both Sprague and Rascoe tell me that their hope is to hear from Texas consumers, grow membership and determine their priorities as a group. Still, each have their pet causes. For Sprague, who works in market research by day and runs the popular blog Lushtastic by, well, rest-of-day, it's about seeing more out-of-state brews become accessible in Texas markets.

    And if lawyer-cum-beer-week-organizer Rascoe had her pick, the wall between breweries and brewpubs would come down and there would be more open competition between distributors (among a host of other changes).

    "The new breweries I've talked to want to self distribute," Sprague says. "That says something."

    And although craft breweries fought with distributor lobbying groups in the last legislative session for a freer business atmosphere, they still relied on them to get their product out and turn a profit. "We can take a fight to the distributors, because we're not beholden to them," Rascoe says of the benefits of consumer-driven advocacy.

    But first, they've got to grow. Base membership will run around $35 dollars and include voting rights in the group and a T-shirt. OTT is also working out the details of a 100 for 100 program, through which it will identify leaders in other Texas cities who will get 100 people to donate $100 dollars, drawing inspiration from similar programs at organizations like Alabama's Free the Hops and Mississippi's Raise Your Pints.

    Sprague says OTT has heard from some advocacy groups from other states and would love to hook up with more and work toward a common goal. "It's about Texas, but at the end of the day, it's not. It's about craft beer," she says.

    After establishing its legislative priorities, the group plans to compile a list of state representatives and their positions on craft beer issues to distribute to members and other interested parties online and through happy hour and fundraising events.

    Open the Taps launches officially Saturday at 4 p.m. at Moon Tower Inn. Come by for some craft beer and learn about membership options.

    unspecified
    news/restaurants-bars

    Rising Star

    Houston restaurateur dishes on swapping Tex-Mex for new retro steakhouse

    Eric Sandler
    Feb 27, 2026 | 11:15 am
    Star Rover exterior
    Photo by Eric Sandler
    Star Rover is now open in the Heights.

    Restaurateur Ford Fry surprised Houston diners when he announced in January that he was closing his Tex-Mex restaurant Superica and replacing it with Star Rover, a casual, family-friendly steakhouse. With Star Rover now open for dinner and weekend brunch, Fry — who also owns Star Rover's neighbor La Lucha, casual taqueria Little Rey, and River Oaks fine dining restaurant State of Grace — explains that the decision came down to both economics and his own desire to provide the Heights with something he thought was lacking.

    “This was our smallest Superica. Superica for us takes so much — every day you’re making salsas, tortillas, it’s so prep heavy,” Fry says. “We weren’t big enough to be that successful. We didn’t have enough seats to make the labor make sense.”

    Rather than compete against Houston’s seemingly limitless roster of Tex-Mex restaurants, Fry saw an opportunity for a steakhouse that occupied a space somewhere between chains like Texas Roadhouse and Outback and fine dining staples like Pappas Bros. Enter Star Rover, which already has a popular location in Nashville.

    Just as La Lucha channels Fry’s childhood memories of the San Jacinto Inn, Star Rover takes some inspiration from iconic Houston restaurant Hofbrau. Diners of a certain age will see places like Hofbrau in the restaurant’s design. The walls are adorned with framed pictures, taxidermy, vintage advertising, and more.

    “The inspiration is if you were some old Texas dude who wanted to start a steakhouse you’d find a bunch of crap and put it on the walls,” Fry says. “We want to make it cool, but it’s got to take you away from what it was. Did we achieve that? I hope so.”

    Fry tasked chef Bobby Matos with updating the Star Rover menu for Houston. It starts with a selection of steaks — chopped, filet, T-bone, ribeye, or skirt — along with a half-chicken, blackened redfish, and chicken fried chicken. All of them come with milk rolls, salad, fries, and onion rings. Diners who want a little surf and turf can add either a crab cake or a fried lobster tail.

    The appetizer menu is similarly tidy, consisting of shrimp cocktail, oysters (raw or fried), potato skins, and vegetable crudités. Desserts include a selection of pies as well as soft serve ice cream.

    Since the steaks are thinner than those served at upscale steakhouses, they’re cooked hot and fast on a plancha and basted in butter.

    “We control the costs by the size of the meat,” Fry explains. “Meat is so expensive, how do you do a family-friendly steakhouse? It’s a 12-ounce ribeye and it’s choice. We put the right amount of age on it.”

    Tucked away in the corner of the menu is text that reads “Cheeseburger?! Just ask!” People should, because it’s a hearty half-pound, New York tavern-style burger that sits on grilled onions, is topped with cheese and mayonnaise, and is served on a classic potato bun. Think of it as the thick-patty counterpart to La Lucha’s thin-patty Pharmacy Burger.

    “I call it a lowbrow steakhouse burger,” Fry says. “It’s not a Peter Luger, but it may be better and it won’t cost as much.”

    Star Rover’s weekend brunch menu features the same pancakes that had been a staple at Superica. They’re joined by some new items, including baked-to-order cinnamon rolls, breakfast tacos, and kolaches that use sausage from Houston’s Roegels Barbecue Co.

    Star Rover exterior

    Photo by Eric Sandler

    Star Rover is now open in the Heights.

    The restaurant has one other old-school touch in the form of an eating challenge called the “I Ate the 76er.” Available with 24 hours notice, diners who finish a 76-ounce steak, milk rolls, salad, onion rings, and fries in under an hour will receive the meal for free, plus a t-shirt and the opportunity to sign a winners’ wall. The challenge reflects the spirit Fry is bringing to Star Rover.

    “A lot of it is scratching that itch of something fun I want to do versus what I think the neighborhood will like,” he says. “We did a version of this in Nashville with a stage. It’s where I eat when I’m in Nashville, because it’s what I want to eat when I’m there.”

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