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    Food for Thought

    The strangest kitchen finds: Downsizing your most important room produces wackywonders

    Marene Gustin
    Jul 14, 2012 | 4:29 pm
    • My downsizing continues in preparation for the move, including the kitchen.
      KitchenStewardship.com
    • Then there are random things I have no recollection of, like the melon baller.
      Blog.Rubbermaid.com
    • And then there are these vintage postcards. From Florida. With pie recipes.
      Photo by Marene Gustin

    The downsizing continues in preparation for the move.

    When you first start this process you are timid. Do I really want to send that size two tailored suit to Goodwill? Or do I want to move it, keep it in the back of another closet for another 10 years and then throw it out?

    But after a while you are drinking bourbon and staring at the closet and thinking you should just donate everything you own and buy all new stuff to be delivered to the new place.

    This week has been like a culinary archeological dig through my life in cooking. I am the Margaret Mead of menus.

    I have been going room-by-room, making weekly trips to the Goodwill donation center and Half Price Books and daily trips to the dumpster. It’s actually kind of freeing to get rid of all the crap you haven’t used in years.

    And then I got to the kitchen.

    This week has been like a culinary archeological dig through my life in cooking. I am the Margaret Mead of menus.

    The hurricane closet was the first to go, which clearly hadn’t been restocked in years. Cans of soup, tuna, chili and sardines that had expired shortly after Ike, go in the trash. Does bottled water have an expiration date? I am conflicted on this.

    Then there were cabinets of glassware. Clearly I never bought that set of eight Riedel wine glasses for that dinner party I never gave because there are no more than two wine glasses that match. But there is something like 15 pairs, far more than I need.

    There are also two sets of dishes because I broke one plate in the first set, couldn’t get a replacement for it so bought a whole new set. Yet kept the others. Which, of course, I haven’t used in three years.

    And there is an expensive sake set because I went through a period of sushi making and thought I had to serve sake correctly with each meal. I haven’t made sushi in six years.

    And don’t get me started on the tequila years. Even though I haven’t drunk it (outside of a margarita) in years, I have a collection of shot glasses (of which almost none match) and for some reason I saved all the bottles. I have no idea why. Maybe I thought they would make nice vases or candle holders. And of course I never used them.

    And then there are random things I have no recollection of. Like the garlic press in the drawer next to the pair of pliers I use to open plastic bottles of Topo Chico mineral water because (has anyone else noticed this?) the twist off tops aren’t perforated anymore and you can’t get them open without tools. But I don’t remember ever buying a garlic press let alone using it.

    On the other hand, the new cookie sheet has never been near cookies, but it has been in close contact with homemade pizzas and bruschetta.

    Ditto for the melon baller. I did use the blender once, to make pesto, but I prefer my mortar and pestle. I like grinding and mixing things by hand. Probably that explains why there is no mixer in my kitchen.

    But there are some really nice sets of Calphalon pots and pans and Henkel knives that are used regularly.

    On the other hand, the new cookie sheet has never been near cookies, but it has been in close contact with homemade pizzas and bruschetta.

    And then there are the cookbooks, some antiques, some from author or restaurant press people, one bizarre one from the 1950s I found at a book sale. But of course I never use them. If I don’t know how to make something I just Google it on my iPhone and carry that around the kitchen while I work.

    And then there are these vintage postcards. From Florida. With pie recipes.

    I have no idea why. The four I have, found in a box with dozens of postcards my late grandmother collected, all have different manufacturers and different fonts. Or, I should say typeface since they look midcentury. Two are for southern pecan pie. While both have the exact same recipe, one has a photograph of the pie and the other a drawing. That one attributes the recipe to someone called Gran’ma Gold. Gran’ma gets no credit on the other identical recipe.

    Another one is for key lime pie, but the best looking one is for Florida orange meringue pie.

    No idea why these were popular in Florida in the 1950s and 1960s and the only information I could find about them is that similar cards sell on eBay for $5 to $10.

    But that orange pie looks delicious and as soon as I can excavate a pie pan, I’m going to try it.

    Florida Orange Meringue Pie Postcard Recipe

    1 cup orange juice
    1 cup orange sections, cut in pieces
    2 tablespoons grated orange rind
    1 cup sugar
    5 tablespoons cornstarch
    3 eggs yolks, beaten
    2 tablespoons lemon juice
    2 tablespoons butter or margarine (this tells you how old this probably is)

    Combine orange juice sections, grated rind, sugar and cornstarch. Cook on low heat until clear. Add a little hot mixture to beaten egg yolks and cook about five minutes longer. Remove from heat. Blend in lemon juice, butter or margarine. Pour into baked pie shell. Be sure both filling and shell are both hot or both cold. Cover filling with meringue. Bake in 350-degree oven until lightly browned.

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    Rising Star

    Houston restaurateur dishes on swapping Tex-Mex for new retro steakhouse

    Eric Sandler
    Feb 27, 2026 | 11:15 am
    Star Rover exterior
    Photo by Eric Sandler
    Star Rover is now open in the Heights.

    Restaurateur Ford Fry surprised Houston diners when he announced in January that he was closing his Tex-Mex restaurant Superica and replacing it with Star Rover, a casual, family-friendly steakhouse. With Star Rover now open for dinner and weekend brunch, Fry — who also owns Star Rover's neighbor La Lucha, casual taqueria Little Rey, and River Oaks fine dining restaurant State of Grace — explains that the decision came down to both economics and his own desire to provide the Heights with something he thought was lacking.

    “This was our smallest Superica. Superica for us takes so much — every day you’re making salsas, tortillas, it’s so prep heavy,” Fry says. “We weren’t big enough to be that successful. We didn’t have enough seats to make the labor make sense.”

    Rather than compete against Houston’s seemingly limitless roster of Tex-Mex restaurants, Fry saw an opportunity for a steakhouse that occupied a space somewhere between chains like Texas Roadhouse and Outback and fine dining staples like Pappas Bros. Enter Star Rover, which already has a popular location in Nashville.

    Just as La Lucha channels Fry’s childhood memories of the San Jacinto Inn, Star Rover takes some inspiration from iconic Houston restaurant Hofbrau. Diners of a certain age will see places like Hofbrau in the restaurant’s design. The walls are adorned with framed pictures, taxidermy, vintage advertising, and more.

    “The inspiration is if you were some old Texas dude who wanted to start a steakhouse you’d find a bunch of crap and put it on the walls,” Fry says. “We want to make it cool, but it’s got to take you away from what it was. Did we achieve that? I hope so.”

    Fry tasked chef Bobby Matos with updating the Star Rover menu for Houston. It starts with a selection of steaks — chopped, filet, T-bone, ribeye, or skirt — along with a half-chicken, blackened redfish, and chicken fried chicken. All of them come with milk rolls, salad, fries, and onion rings. Diners who want a little surf and turf can add either a crab cake or a fried lobster tail.

    The appetizer menu is similarly tidy, consisting of shrimp cocktail, oysters (raw or fried), potato skins, and vegetable crudités. Desserts include a selection of pies as well as soft serve ice cream.

    Since the steaks are thinner than those served at upscale steakhouses, they’re cooked hot and fast on a plancha and basted in butter.

    “We control the costs by the size of the meat,” Fry explains. “Meat is so expensive, how do you do a family-friendly steakhouse? It’s a 12-ounce ribeye and it’s choice. We put the right amount of age on it.”

    Tucked away in the corner of the menu is text that reads “Cheeseburger?! Just ask!” People should, because it’s a hearty half-pound, New York tavern-style burger that sits on grilled onions, is topped with cheese and mayonnaise, and is served on a classic potato bun. Think of it as the thick-patty counterpart to La Lucha’s thin-patty Pharmacy Burger.

    “I call it a lowbrow steakhouse burger,” Fry says. “It’s not a Peter Luger, but it may be better and it won’t cost as much.”

    Star Rover’s weekend brunch menu features the same pancakes that had been a staple at Superica. They’re joined by some new items, including baked-to-order cinnamon rolls, breakfast tacos, and kolaches that use sausage from Houston’s Roegels Barbecue Co.

    Star Rover exterior

    Photo by Eric Sandler

    Star Rover is now open in the Heights.

    The restaurant has one other old-school touch in the form of an eating challenge called the “I Ate the 76er.” Available with 24 hours notice, diners who finish a 76-ounce steak, milk rolls, salad, onion rings, and fries in under an hour will receive the meal for free, plus a t-shirt and the opportunity to sign a winners’ wall. The challenge reflects the spirit Fry is bringing to Star Rover.

    “A lot of it is scratching that itch of something fun I want to do versus what I think the neighborhood will like,” he says. “We did a version of this in Nashville with a stage. It’s where I eat when I’m in Nashville, because it’s what I want to eat when I’m there.”

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