Though the exterior of the former So Vino has been updated with chic blue and white fabric awnings reminiscent of sails, the interiors of the new Cafe Moustache are fairly similar, with just a few tweaks including the smart French-blue tablecloths.

The concept is bringing back the French panache of owner Manfred Jachmich's eatery from the '80s and updating it with a modern, casual vibe.

Lunch is ostensibly counter service, though without an obvious counter ordering area most patrons on our visit opted for traditional table service. The lunch menu is short and deliciously picnic-friendly, with goodie-laden baguette sandwiches — choose between Le Parisien, with Madrange ham and camembert, and Le Bayonne's prosciutto and white cheddar — as well as a burger loaded with roquefort cheese, a reduced selection of dinner entrees and a handful of salads, including a tasty tuna niçoise.

Aside from the delicious sandwiches, where Cafe Moustache really shines is dinner, when patrons can take better advantage of reasonably-priced wine bottles and flights and scrumptious, traditional French appetizers and entrees.

The moules marinere and escargot are both buttery and succulent in their own respect, but earn extra points for the rich dipping sauces they leave behind for the bread: white wine garlic and lemon for the former and lemon butter with the latter.

The truffle fries left over from the So Vino days are still excellent — rich yet not greasy — and the other entrees, particularly the seafood dishes, are well-executed in traditional French style and reasonably priced, with all but two item under $20.

That said, service was someone spotty — to be expected in a new concept — and a few dishes are still being tweaked. We were warned away from the onion soup as a work in progress, and the dessert menu, aside from the profiteroles, was disappointing.

Cafe Moustache's Grand Opening is tonight, combined with a celebration of Bastille Day featuring live music and dinner deals. The first 50 guests get a kir royale on the house and those in a beret or moustache get frites on the house.

What can we say? Vive le France!