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    Nothing like a facelift

    Packed to the rafters, a storied steakhouse reopens with a crush after $5 million revamp

    Shelby Hodge
    shelby hodge
    Jul 9, 2013 | 1:42 pm

    It was standing room only with customers three deep at the bar Monday night as The Palm officially raised the curtain on its $5 million renovation and expansion. If the energy level and enthusiasm of customers on opening night was any indication, the steakhouse is set to rock and roll.

    As early as 6 o'clock, regulars and newcomers, eager to get a look-see at the new 9,000 square foot digs, were already raising the din to party levels. In the dining room, regulars such as Sherry and Johnny Chen were joined by Fu Nig and Aaron Chen in one of the sleek red leather, tufted booths, all four ordering lobster dinners. Their obvious glee at the refurbished setting was matched by that of The Palm co-chairman and third generation co-owner Wally Ganzi.

    "We got rid of the cigar smoke. The smoke really offended a lot of people in our private dining room."

    He and wife Sandy, along with other Palm execs, had flown in from headquarters in Washington D.C. for the opening festivities. "I think it's actually our nicest restaurant that we've ever built in our lives," Ganzi said. "I've been doing this for 50 years, we're in the third generation. We opened this restaurant (in Houston) in 1978 which I thought was beautiful."

    The original steakhouse was opened by the Ganzi and Bozzi families in New York in 1926. With the re-opening of the Houston location, the families (Bozzi represented by fourth generation Bruce Bozzi Jr., the group's executive vice president) brought in Monsignor Frank Rossi to deliver a blessing, which he did, complete with prayer and holy water.

    The Houston renovation is the prototype for redesign of the group's restaurants across the country. "What we tried to do was combine the old and the new," Ganzi said. "Meaning that I don't want to offend the older customers who liked The Palm for what it was. But also you have to pay attention to the new young customers who are coming in.

    "So we tried to combine the feel of both here . . . We've hired a young crew to go along with the old crew, a combination again of both, a mix that I think is going to go great."

    Case in point, executive director Jimmy Martin, whom Ganzi convinced to leave New York in the 1970s to head up the Houston operation. Thirty-five years later Martin remains at the helm, now assisted by general manager Scott Sieck, most recently of Del Frisco's Grille. With their team well-trained, service ran at the A+ level.

    The Palm regulars will recognize familiar design touches including the caricature mural of notables and Houston-centric images. Former President George H.W. Bush and Barbara Bush, Becca Cason Thrash and Jack Rains are among the personalties pictured along with images of oil rigs, the space shuttle, Reliant Stadium and a spaghetti bowl of freeways.

    The restaurant was able to expand, now with seating for 320, by taking over the space next door once occupied by a cigar shop. And that was a double bonus according to Ganzi.

    "We got rid of the cigar smoke," he said. "The smoke really offended a lot of people in our private dining room."

    The kitchen, under direction of executive chef Ricardo Ramirez, hummed Monday night with orders for filet, bone-in ribeye and lobster topping the popularity chart. Part of the appeal of the lobster might have been the Summer Lobster dinner for two, priced at $79.95, offered through Aug. 31.

    The sleek reincarnation of The Palm opens its doors to a sell-out crowd of giddy diners.

    2 The Palm Houston grand re-opening July 2013
    Photo by © Roswitha Vogler Photosbyrovo.com
    The sleek reincarnation of The Palm opens its doors to a sell-out crowd of giddy diners.
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    news/restaurants-bars

    drew be goode

    New pitmaster brings top 50 cred to historic Houston barbecue joint

    Eric Sandler
    Aug 21, 2026 | 10:30 am
    Goode Co Barbecue Drew Lindsey pitmaster
    Photo by Brian Kennedy
    Drew Lindsey is Goode Co.'s new multi-unit pitmaster.

    One of Houston’s oldest barbecue joints has brought in fresh talent to oversee its operations. Drew Lindsey is the new Multi-Unit Pitmaster for Goode Co. Barbeque.

    Lindsey brings an impressive resume to his role. His career began at the Austin location of Michelin-recommended Terry Black’s Barbecue and also includes stops at Hurtado Barbecue (Arlington) and Dayne’s Craft Barbecue, the Fort Worth-area restaurant ranked No. 7 on Texas Monthly’s 2025 list of the state’s 50 best barbecue joints. Now, he’s responsible for ensuring consistency across Goode Co. Barbecue’s three locations and developing new menu items.

    Still, Lindsey’s role isn’t to rock the boat. Instead, he tells CultureMap he’s simply looking to refine what the restaurant has been doing since 1977.

    “I was drawn to Goode Co because of its rich history, the deep roots that Jim Goode planted in the Houston area back in 1977,” Lindsey says. “Being able to contribute to that legacy while continuing to grow as a pitmaster and leader was an opportunity that really stood out for me. It’s about projecting the craft and developing people, making sure that no matter which location a guest visits they receive the great quality barbecue that Goode Co. represents.”

    He notes that one way Goode Co.’s brisket is different from places he’s worked previously is its seasonings, which adds a few more ingredients to the familiar mix of salt and pepper that’s the standard in Central Texas-style barbecue.

    “The way that I would describe it is Southeast Texas barbecue with a little bit of Texicana, like Mexico-style barbecue.” Later, he adds, “I like that there’s a little more flavor in the rub itself for brisket.”

    Another of Lindsey’s roles is developing new menu items and tweaking some of the restaurant’s existing dishes. For example, Goode Co.’s pork ribs are now finished with an agave glaze.

    “One thing I’ve been working on a is a tequila-lime glaze pork belly burnt end,” he says. “They’re seasoned with black pepper and Mexican seasoned salt then dunked into a tequila lime glaze — nice, thick, one inch cube of pork belly.”

    Diners will find these and other items on a bi-weekly features menu that’s served every Thursday through Sunday. Available from open until sold out, the current menu includes pulled pork, jalapeno-cheddar sausage link, and green chile pimento cheese dip with Ritz firecrackers.

    Lindsey says he’s still getting to know Houston’s barbecue scene. So far, he’s tried Tejas Chocolate + Barbecue in Tomball and Truth BBQ, but he has plans to sample more broadly.

    “Khoi Barbecue is one I want to try. I love the fusion of Asian cuisine with Central Texas-style barbecue,” he says.

    Goode Co Barbecue Drew Lindsey pitmaster

    Photo by Brian Kennedy

    Drew Lindsey is Goode Co.'s new multi-unit pitmaster.

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    news/restaurants-bars

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