What's Eric Eating Episode 248

Michelin-starred chef and Beard Award winner dish on their downtown sustainable seafood restaurant

Golfstrommen Christopher Haatuft Paul Qui

Chefs Christopher Haatuft and Paul Qui are this week's guests.

Photo by Kat Ambrose

On this week's episode of "What's Eric Eating," chefs Christopher Haatuft and Paul Qui join CultureMap food editor Eric Sandler to discuss Golfstrommen, the seafood market and restaurant in the Post Market food hall inside the Post Houston development. The conversation begins with Qui, who has won both a season of Top Chef and a James Beard Award, explaining how he became connected to Haatuft, who recently earned a Michelin star at Lysverket, his flagship seafood restaurant in Bergen, Norway.

From there, the conversation turns to Golfstrommen. Haatuft explains how he's blended his focus on sustainability with serving food that will customers will pay for. Even as it continues to evolve, the restaurant has already earned considerable praise from both diners and critics. Haatuft sees a bright future.

"I think an important thing to note is we opened with our money, with zero investors. We are building it as we go," he says. "That's very similar to how I normally open a restaurant back home. I'm confident enough in what we do that I never feel that need to have a finished concept in two weeks. I'm confident in starting low and slow and letting it get its own identity and backbone. The restaurant is definitely a lot better than it was when we opened, and that's when we got all that very good press."

Qui, who's overseeing several restaurants in the food hall as well as establishments in Austin, Denver, and Miami, has found his own role in the restaurant's kitchen.

"Where I'm at in my career, this is a nice oasis. Coming to Golfstrommen and checking out what the guys do here, revives my inspiration for wanting to be a chef," he says. "The energy from our talented chefs there — it's me hopping on the line to cook whatever I want to without thinking about anything else and just getting excited about ingredients."

Prior to the interview, Sandler and co-host Michael Fulmer discuss the news of the week. Their topics include: Ben Berg's plans to renovate and relaunch La Table; the opening of CounterCommon Beerworks & Kitchen in Bellaire; and wine shop and bar Reata Cellars opening in the Heights.

In the restaurant of the week segment, they discuss their visit to Georgia James, Chris Shepherd's luxurious steakhouse that just relocated to its new home in the Regent Square mixed-use development. Listen to hear their thoughts on how it compares to Houston's other top steakhouses.

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Subscribe to "What's Eric Eating" on Apple podcasts, Google Play, or Spotify. Listen to it Saturday at 1 pm on ESPN 97.5.

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One Day Only

Chef of Michelin-starred Texas BBQ joint pops up at Houston crawfish favorite

Photo by Quit Nguyen

Join Lucas McKinney for a crawfish pop-up this Sunday, May 17.

The pitmaster behind one of Texas’ Michelin-starred barbecue joints will be in Houston for a one-day-only crawfish boil. Evan LeRoy, chef and co-owner of Austin’s LeRoy and Lewis Barbecue, will be at Josephine’s this Sunday, May 17 from 2-6 pm.

Part of the restaurant’s Backyard Boil pop-up series, LeRoy and Josephine’s executive chef Lucas McKinney have collaborated on a four dishes that will be served at the pop-up, which will take place on Josephine’s patio. They are:

Smoked Crawfish Boil Sausage on a Stick: andouille flavored pork sausage with crawfish, corn, and potatoes
Brisket and Cheddar Croquettes: Chopped brisket and cheddar cheese in a creamy bechamel. Scooped, breaded in panko, and fried til crispy
Oysters on the Half Shell: Pickled Onion Mignonette, Smoked Jalapeno Salsa, Kimchi Elote
Smoked Salsa Macha with Beef Tallow: Guajillo, ancho, and arbol chiles, lime, soy, garlic, onion, pepitas, and pecans

The pop-up is part of LeRoy’s tour for his new book, New School Barbecue: Recipes for Next-Level Smoking and Grilling, which he co-wrote with Texas Monthly restaurant critic Paula Forbes. Released this week, the book contains almost 100 recipes for mains, sides, and desserts.

LeRoy & Lewis Evan Leroy ATX Evan LeRoy is coming to Houston this weekend. Photo by Briana Balducci

“Lucas asked me to participate in a crawfish boil this year, and it happened to line up with the release of the book, so I said yes,” LeRoy tells CultureMap. “The event format centers around a crawfish boil, along with some fried items and oysters, so it doesn't necessarily reflect the recipes in the book. Instead, we decided to bring a few dishes we’ve been working on over the past year or so, including the brisket and cheddar croquettes — which will definitely make it into my next cookbook.”

McKinney has already hosted pop-ups with the likes of ChòpnBlọk chef-owner Ope Amosu and Mike Pham of Trill Burgers.

“With these crawfish boils, I want each chef to bring their own perspective and let the menu reflect their personal style of cooking,” McKinney adds. “Events like this are really centered around community, collaboration, and introducing something fresh and exciting to Houston each time.”

LeRoy and Lewis has earned wide acclaim for its “new school” barbecue. In addition to being one of only four Texas barbecue joints to hold a Michelin star, it ranked No. 2 on Texas Monthly’s list of the state’s 50 best barbecue joints. McKinney began patronizing the restaurant when his friend, pitmaster Cole Parkman, worked there.

“It’s incredibly good,” McKinney says. “Eating there feels like they’re telling you, ‘I know you think you like brisket, but this is what you should really like.’ I really respect that they’ve planted their feet firmly in the ground and committed to doing things differently. It all makes so much sense — and it’s delicious.”

Reservations (free) are required to attend the Backyard Boil at Josephine’s; both 2 pm and 4 pm seatings are available. Attendees will purchase food and drinks a la carte. Josephine’s regular menu will not be available at the pop-up. Copies of New School Barbecue will also be available for purchase.

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