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    Grocery Store Restaurant

    Opa! Owner of beloved Greek restaurant details plans for new location in unique partnership

    Eric Sandler
    Jul 2, 2014 | 11:11 am

    Beloved Montrose Greek restaurant Niko Niko's will head outside the Loop thanks to a new venture with H-E-B. A Niko Niko's Express will replace the Cafe on the Run at the grocery chain's Pearland location at Texas 288 and FM 518.

    Niko Niko's owner Dimitri Fetokakis tells CultureMap that the deal came about when he read an article in which H-E-B executive Scott McClelland said he liked eating at the restaurant. They traded a few phone calls and McClelland offer Fetokakis the opportunity to open in Pearland.

    "We’re not going to skimp on anything," Fetokakis promises. "We’re putting a good amount of money into this. Instead of building a restaurant out there, I’m able to test the market."

    "It’s always exciting when you’re growing," Fetokakis says. "We’re pretty conservative. We like to buy our land, but Market Square was a neat project . . . This is going to be a good partnership. Something we can learn with and grow with."

    The menu will be similar to the Market Square location, but the Pearland outpost is big enough for a fryer, which means diners will get to munch on Niko Niko's signature fries. "We’ll have the gyro sandwich (and) all our appetizers: spinach pies, cheese pies, meat pies. Stuff you can grab it and take it," Fetokakis adds. If these items prove successful, they may add to-go pans of Greek lasagna and family packs of gyro meat.

    Some items might even be unique to the new Pearland location (plans for the new outpost were first reported in Houston Chronicle). "My mother has a lot of nice recipes we do at the house: different salads, different soups. We might introduce those after we get open," Fetokakis says.

    And diners shouldn't worry that they'll get a subpar experience by not coming to the original location, he says. "We’re not going to skimp on anything. We’re putting a good amount of money into this. Instead of building a restaurant out there, I’m able to test the market."

    Asked about whether H-E-B has raised the possibility of additional outposts, Fetokakis demurs. "There’s a possibility if they like us and if it’s working out. You never know. They might say, 'Hey, come into other stores.' For now, we’re just going to stick with this one."

    Whatever the future may hold, the partnership is off to good start. "Everyone at H-E-B, from the managers to the lawyers, they’ve been amazing. I’m excited to build that relationship," Fetokakis says.

    Architect's rendering of the new Niko Niko's inside H-E-B.

    3 Niko Niko's in H-E-B July 2014 rendering WHITE SPACE
    Rendering by Milton Architects Courtesy of Niko Niko's
    Architect's rendering of the new Niko Niko's inside H-E-B.
    unspecified
    news/restaurants-bars

    A CultureMap Exclusive

    Ronnie Killen sets closing date for his Michelin-rated comfort food eatery

    Eric Sandler
    Jun 22, 2026 | 9:48 am
    Kelly Louis, Ronnie Killen, Mollye Hildebrand, Ryan Hildenbrand
    Photo by Eric Sandler
    Kelly Louis, Ronnie Killen, Mollye Hildebrand, and Ryan Hildenbrand at the 2025 Texas Michelin Guide ceremony.

    Since the Michelin Guide’s arrival in Texas, it has been rare for any included restaurant to close, but Killen’s, chef Ronnie Killen’s Southern restaurant that holds a Bib Gourmand designation, will serve its final meals on Sunday, July 19.

    Open since 2020 in the space previously occupied by Hickory Hollow, Killen’s serves a Southern-inspired menu based on chef Killen’s family recipes. That includes chicken fried steak and fried chicken, as well as Killen’s signature items such as barbecue and smoked pork belly bites. Last year, chef Killen recruited chef Ryan Hildebrand (formerly of Triniti) to elevate the menu and upgraded the restaurant with new furniture, dinnerware, and silverware.

    All of which is to say that chef Killen’s decision to sell the property for $3.5 million to a new owner — who plans to convert it into a gas station — comes as a bit of a surprise. As he tells CultureMap in an exclusive interview, a number of reasons played into the decision.

    Why Killen’s is closing

    First, the chef has been consolidating his operations over the past few years. Closing Killen’s follows the 2023 closure of Mexican-inspired Pearland restaurant Killen’s TMX; the 2024 shuttering of Killen’s STQ, his live fire steakhouse in Briargrove; and the 2025 closures of both of his restaurants in The Woodlands, Killen’s Steakhouse and Killen’s Barbecue.

    As Killen has discussed before, a number of injuries and surgeries have limited his mobility and caused him considerable pain. A couple months ago, he had another back procedure that’s left him unable to bend over to tie his shoes but has improved his overall health.

    “The chronic pain was so much worse than it was [before the surgery]. I’m not taking drugs everyday not to be in pain,” Killen says.

    In addition, the chef’s confidence in the restaurant’s location has also waned due to increased crime in the area. In one particularly bizarre incident, he spent $8,000 to remove graffiti by a mentally unstable woman who accused the restaurant of causing harm to her stuffed monkey.

    “When I first bought the place, I could walk to H-E-B and get stuff. I was never asked for money. or worried about getting held up,” he says. “Now, i get asked for money three different times on every corner. I think the area has gotten worse.”

    Finally, despite the Michelin recognition and new energy chef Hildebrand brought to the restaurant, it simply hasn’t performed as well financially as it needed to in order to stay open. The money he’ll make from selling the land is far more than the restaurant will earn, even over the next couple of years.

    “If the place were doing $10 million a year, I would have looked at the restaurant value instead of the land value,” Killen says.

    Ryan Hildebrand’s perspective

    Chef Hildebrand understands Killen’s business decision to cash out and move on. He went through a similar process at Triniti, his critically-acclaimed fine dining restaurant that closed in 2017. He’s committed to staying with the restaurant until it closes — at which point, he’ll be looking for a new job.

    “I’ve been an owner,” Hildebrand says. “I’ve owned the real estate. When someone makes you an offer and the restaurant isn’t doing what you wanted, you have a decision.”

    Ultimately, Hildebrand thinks the changes he made — including adding more seafood and other items to move the restaurant slightly upmarket — confused regular customers who just wanted the restaurant’s original dishes and heaping portions.

    “The challenge was to not shock the system too harshly. To hang onto the clientele that was existing and that was loyal. They were entrenched in barbecue,” Hildebrand says. “We had to maintain the identity and at the same time change things. We probably needed to rebrand the whole show. Shut it down. Change the name. Change the menu.”

    Still, he's proud of the work he did in the eight months he spent at the restaurant, and he's eager to take on his next challenge.

    "I definitely want to stay in Houston," he says. "We’re home. We’re much happier. The search starts now. You can announce it. I am wildly available."

    Closing Killen’s will leave Ronnie Killen with just five restaurants — three locations of Killen’s Barbecue in Pearland, Cypress, and Hobby Airport; Killen’s Burgers in Pearland; and Killen’s Steakhouse, which is currently closed for renovations that Ronnie Killen hopes will help it earn a Michelin star (more on that in the weeks to come).

    “It’s just business and timing,” Killen says. “Trust me, it’s very hard. That place means so much to me. It was built with recipes that my grandmother and my godmother made. It was the food I ate as a kid that made me want to become a chef.”

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