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    Vegging Out

    Cheating on Fiesta with 99 Ranch Market: Drop the dollar store visions, they've got sexy tofu!

    Joel Luks
    Jun 28, 2010 | 5:15 pm
    News_Joel Luks_vegging out_99 Ranch Market_Hard Tofu in Vegan Pad Thai
    Hard Tofu up close and personal: Delivering a meatier consistency, hard tofu is the perfect substitute for any recipe calling for diced chicken.
    Photo by Joel Luks

    I have been in Houston longer than any other city in my adult life, which is not really saying much considering I am 34 and unsure when adulthood officially began. It was definitely not after my illustrious bar mitzvah or when I revealed my perfectly manicured teeth post braces.

    Perhaps, the day I signed my first lease sans the help of the parentals? Or my first speeding traffic violation?

    As a graduate student, I taught music lessons at Memorial High School a couple of afternoons a week while living in Meyerland. A part of music teacher growing pains, I learned to care for my students enough to stay for a couple of years. Once the initial buzz of infusing culture into unsuspecting lives wore off, I was ready to move on.

    Across the highway, there was the mega Fiesta on the corner of I-10 and Blalock: A Latin-centric international food valhalla with all my favorites, including hard to find items at rock bottom prices. After all, I was pseudo broke, as anything I earned went to feed my habits. Whether I was in need of the latest Charlie Trotter cookbook or a trendy new hat, I depended on my deal-seeking abilities to keep me culinarily engaged.

    As the years went by, my daily routine took me into different thoroughfares, and I somewhat neglected to nurture my relationship with Fiesta. Imagine my surprise when one day the all familiar sign was gone in favor of one reading 99 Ranch Market. I felt betrayed, shunned and puzzled. Why would I need a 99 cent store?

    My ignorance was fed by really bad marketing. Indeed, 99 Ranch Market was quite far from the stereotypical cluttered bargain product reject warehouse, although one could find great deals.

    It is a chain of Asian grocery stores; the first opened in California in 1984. It made its Texas debut in Houston in late 2009. I no longer had to travel very far to find key ingredients to perfect my vegan Pad Thai, stock-up on Banh Xeo mixes like we were nearing armaggedon, or have access to a bacchanal of products in languages I could not understand, with translations that made no attempt to even vaguely make any sense.

    I cheated on Fiesta and I am having open relations with 99.

    Whether you are a self-proclaimed carnivore, a moderate omnivore, a flexaterian, pescaterian, vegetarian, vegan, raw vegan or believe in fasting, it is easy to fall into a foodie cycle and stick with what is familiar.

    Being successful in maintaining a vegan diet, or any eating regime for that matter, is directly dependent on trying a variety of foods and ingredients and having courage and child-like curiosity to experiment with them. We often concentrate on everything we cannot have rather than discovering what we can. A huge gamut of delicious options materializes by branching out teasing our taste buds.

    Remember the first time you tried sushi? While for most young'uns the thought of raw fish was welcomed by gagging gestures, it is through maturity and exposure that for some, it translates into an obsessive delicacy. Vegetables and undiscovered foods sometimes follow the same journey. Other times, its love at first taste.

    Having access to ethnic grocery stores is a turn on. Roaming through them in a quest for the unknown resembles dating: We pretend to know what we want, but often surprise ourselves by ending up with something completely different.

    On my last few trips to 99 Ranch Market, I developed foodie crushes for these fabulous finds.

    Red Spinach

    Primarily grown in Southeast Asia, it is best known as Chinese spinach. It is of the same family as traditional spinach, although much easier on the eyes with beautiful, red-spotted leaves. Gorgeous as a salad base, it can also replace regular spinach in cooked dishes, dips and sauces.

    High in vitamins A, K, B6, C, riboflavin and folate, red spinach is a good source of calcium, iron, magnesium, phosphorus, potassium, zinc, copper and manganese.

    The seed is actually a superfood known as amaranth with superhuman-like nutritional content. Like quinoa, it contains a complete set of amino acids making it a complete protein without the gluten of grains.

    Korean Melon

    These adorable fashionably stripped little creatures are a perfect distraction from traditional melons and cantaloupe. If you are a commitment-phobe, their smaller size will please you.

    Juicy and slightly meatier than their conventional brothers, Korean melon supplies you with a good amount of vitamin C, some potassium and a lot of fiber to keep you nicely regulated.

    Hard Dry Mushroom Tofu

    Tofu has received a bad reputation for being tasteless and for some, has an unpleasant consistency. In most conventional supermarkets, it is easy to find different varieties of tofu including silken, sprouted, soft, firm and extra firm. I love to blend the soft to create a creamy sauce base, while the extra firm allows for a meatier consistency.

    Dry tofu is even sexier with a much denser texture with the least amount of water content. It can be sliced thinly, shredded, or diced to mimic meat or cheese, sometimes Indian paneer combined with a little vegan sour cream and spices. The mushrooms and spicy varieties have extra flavor in them for richer tasting dishes.

    Konnyaku

    As close as a zero calorie food as you can get, konnyaku is a Japanese product made from the konjac plant also known as the Devil's Tongue. It comes in two varieties — a white and a gray with some seaweed added — and it is very high in fiber, but has little other nutritional benefits.

    It has a gelatinous consistency and is basically flavorless. It is best to use konnyaku in richer tasting soups or allowing it to marinate for a while to absorb flavor. It is best to blanch the konnyaku in bowling water for a minute or so to remove the storage liquid. You will also find shirataki, which is essentially konnyaku in noodle form.

    Banh Xeo Mix

    Banh Xeo is a Vietnamese street food consisting of a crepe filled with fatty pork, shrimp and vegetables. The crepe is made with rice flour, coconut cream and turmeric giving it a gorgeous golden color with a crispy texture.

    Sautee your favorite veggies, toss in the prepared mix and go to town. These are delicious and flexible. Typically, Banh Xeo is then served with vegetables and herbs on the side including lettuce, basil, mint, cilantro, green papaya and shredded carrots, rolled and then dipped in fish sauce. A vegetarian version is easily duplicated.

    Hungry yet? Would you share your own favorite foodie finds? Please.

    Hard Tofu up close and personal: Delivering a meatier consistency, hard tofu is the perfect substitute for any recipe calling for diced chicken.

    News_Joel Luks_vegging out_99 Ranch Market_Hard Tofu in Vegan Pad Thai
    Photo by Joel Luks
    Hard Tofu up close and personal: Delivering a meatier consistency, hard tofu is the perfect substitute for any recipe calling for diced chicken.
    unspecified
    news/restaurants-bars

    say hey to Hypsi

    Houston chef's hip new Italian restaurant now open in Heights hotel

    Eric Sandler
    Dec 4, 2025 | 5:05 pm
    Hypsi restaurant food spread
    Photo by Julie Soefer
    Hypsi serves pasta and other Itaian-inspired dishes.

    A new Italian restaurant is now open in the Heights. Located within the newly opened Hotel Daphne, Hypsi marks chef Terrence Gallivan’s return to professional cooking in Houston.

    Known for his time as the co-execuive chef of The Pass and Provisions and owner of ElRo Pizza and Crudo, Gallivan brings strong culinary credentials to Hypsi. Although he isn’t known explicitly for Italian fare, he has significant experience making pizza, pasts, and other Italian-inspired dishes. After closing ElRo last year, the chef says that working for Bunkhouse Hotels, the Austin-based company that operates the Daphne, had a lot of appeal.

    “My wife and I always made it a point to stop at their places whenever we’re in Austin. They know how to make cool stuff,” Gallivan says.

    Hypsi’s menu includes updated takes on Italian fare begins with starters such as lamb meatballs, black truffle arancini, and Caesar salad. A selection of house-made pastas include squid ink radiatori with rock shrimp, butternut squash tortellini, and lumache with vodka sauce that gets a little heat from nduja. Entree choices include a roast chicken, pork Milanese, and roasted snapper with salsa verde.

    The restaurant is also open for breakfast during the week and brunch on the weekends with items such as a panatone waffle, frittata, and breakfast sandwich. Lunch will follow in January.

    “We took inspiration from tradition without being traditional,” Gallivan says. Later, he adds, “For me, it’s about balance. You try to please everybody. I want my mom to enjoy herself as much as a 25-year-old foodie. It’s important to hit as many marks as you can.”

    One of the restaurant’s signatures will be the mozzarella cart that rolls through its dining room. Gallivan says he’s sourcing a mix of both American and imported Italian cheeses that will rotate every week or two. The cheese is served with a range of pickled fruit and vegetables, olive oil, aged balsamic vinegar, focaccia, and more. Of course, seeing a cart immediately grabs diners’ attention, making them want whatever is on offer.

    “That’s the beauty of carts,” Gallivan says. “It’s a fun thing to do. I think sometimes we get a little too serious in restaurants. It’s supposed to be fun. People are here to enjoy themselves.”

    All that eating and drinking takes place in a dining room that’s inspired by Prohibition-era speakeasies, according to press materials. Details include blueberry lava stone on the bar, vintage velvet chairs, and custom Carimate dining chairs by Vico Magistretti. An outdoor patio features brick pavers, mosaic tables, and sculptures.

    Hypsi restaurant food spread

    Photo by Julie Soefer

    Hypsi serves pasta and other Itaian-inspired dishes.

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