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    Sip and Shoot

    Drink up: Houston's own Pisco Portón makes a cameo with Shakira

    Caroline Gallay
    Jun 18, 2011 | 11:30 am
    • Johnny Schuler was a connoisseur of wine before falling in love with pisco, agrape-based liquor, 27 years ago.
    • Pisco Portón retails for around $40 at Houston-area Spec's. The beautiful bottleincludes a photograph of the distillery, Hacienda la Caravedo, established in1684.
    • A pisco Portonero
    • Pisco Sour

    The new Shakira video for her latest single, "Rabiosa," has a Houston connection.

    It's not a Houston athlete or one of our famous music producers — it's a bottle of pisco, glimpsed just barely as Shaki writhes in a tub of those balls that used to populate McDonald's playgrounds (and sanitation exposés on the local news). However passing the pisco cameo, it's exciting for those of us who are familiar with the first-ever brand of premium pisco — Pisco Portón.

    Distilled in Peru under the eye of restaurateur and world-renowned pisco authority Johnny Schuler, the Pisco Portón brand was founded by Houston couple Cristina and William Kallop, who split their time between the Bayou City and Lima, Peru (among other travels).

    The Kallops invited Schuler into the pisco-making business two years ago, and Schuler says there was a handshake deal right off the bat. "They told me, 'We want to go into business, but only with you.'"

    The trio bought the oldest distillery in South America — Hacienda la Caravedo, established in 1684 — and got to work.

    This "big, beautiful business opportunity," as Schuler calls it, was the culmination of several years spent as the "self-appointed and then semi-officially appointed" ambassador of Peruvian pisco — financing tasting competitions, giving interviews, and even eliminating all other after-dinner drinks at his own Lima restaurants, Key Club and La Granja Azul.

    But Schuler was not always a pisco authority. He was not always even a fan of the drink.

    Twenty seven years ago Schuler was awakened in the night by a phone call from a dear friend with a dire emergency. "I need a taster," he told Schuler. He was running a pisco competition, and the judges were getting too drunk to be useful.

    Schuler, a great connoisseur of wines (he has more than 2,000 bottles at home) wasn't excited by the offer. But, being a professional taster, he knew to spit between samples, and by his fourth or fifth taste, he was in love. "What is this?" he recalls, "Fruits, flowers — I was in heaven. I think I am about to levitate."

    Schuler didn't believe it was pisco. Traditionally enjoyed en masse in Chile mixed with Coke at a lower proof, or drunk cheaply as pisco sours in Lima, Schuler said it had taken him 40 years to realize that pisco was just like cognac — like wine.

    "To make great pisco, you first make great wine," Schuler says as he pours me a taste. The liquid is clear, distilled in copper in small batches. It's not aged, but is let to rest for around eight months to a year before bottling, and it's distilled to proof — 86 proof — meaning no water is added in the process to dilute the alcohol.

    Each year, one batch of Portón is made the old way, with the grapes pressed by feet. Five percent of each bottle is drawn from that batch, made from the same method it was 250 years ago. Portón is an acholado pisco, or a blend, as opposed to a puro, which is made with only one variety of grape, comparable to a single-malt scotch. It is also a mosto verde, meaning it's distilled before all the sugar has been eaten up by the yeast. That mean's it's expensive to make, and it requires many more grapes.

    Portón is the only mosto verde in the American market. This year's blend is No. 7.

    It's warm to drink, but it doesn't burn. There's something there that reminds me of burnt honey, which I like. Schuler finds this unsurprising, and tells me that his second favorite drink, after pisco, is Maker's Mark and Coke. If you enjoy bourbon, you appreciate Portón.

    Today, Schuler's pisco collection rivals his wine cellar; he has 2,500 labels, dating back to the 1920s. "When I used to bring pisco to a dinner party," he says, "people would joke, 'Johnny, the service entrance is in back!'" Now he envisions making the pisco-making region in Peru a tourist destination akin to California's Napa Valley.

    Schuler's preference is to drink his pisco neat. "I have a privileged nose, he says." But mixologists are playing with pisco, and RDG's barmaster, Paco, has a key lime Portón sour crafted already.

    Here are three alternate ways to enjoy your Portón:

    Pisco Sour - Pisco in its most popular form:
    1.5 oz. Pisco Portón
    .5 oz. fresh lime juice
    .5 oz. simple syrup
    .25 oz. egg white
    1 dash bitters
    Combine ingredients in a shaker with ice and shake. Strain contents into a chilled glass. Add bitters.

    Portonero - How Schuler likes his lunchtime pisco:
    2 oz. Pisco Portón
    1 tsp. fresh lime juice
    1 tsp. simple syrup
    1 slice of fresh ginger
    1 dash of bitters
    Ginger Ale
    Pour first five ingredients into a tall glass filled with ice. Fill with ginger ale, stir and garnish with a lime wedge.

    Leche con Pantera - "Panther's milk":
    Pour the juice from your ceviche into a glass, top with Portón, and drink

    Watch Shakira's "Rabiosa" video below. Can you spot the (Houston) product placement?

    unspecified
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    Courtesy of Chef Austin Simmons
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    Editor’s note: Readers turn to CultureMap to stay informed on all the latest Houston restaurant news, but some stories grab more people’s attention than others. As always, closings rank highly, taking seven of the 10 places on this list. What’s notable is that the closings included both restaurants open for more than 25 years as well as a steakhouse that closed in less than two years. While the results are mostly doom-and-gloom, we found joy in one of America’s most famous former athletes surprising the diners at popular Houston restaurant — and leaving one lucky waiter a tip worth celebrating.

    Here are the 10 most-read CultureMap restaurant and bar stories of 2025.

    1. Houston chef breaks his silence on sudden exit from Woodlands restaurant. Speaking exclusively to CultureMap, chef Austin Simmons explained the reasons for his surprising departure from Tris, including a dispute with the restaurant’s owner over interior renovations. After taking some time to focus on his Chef & Rancher beef company, Simmons announced in September that he’ll open Charolais by Chef Austin Simmons in the Hughes Landing district. Scheduled to open in April, the restaurant will also have a companion butcher shop that sells meat from Chef & Rancher.

    2. Pioneering Houston Mexican restaurant will shutter after 44 years. Chef Arnaldo Richards announced his intention to close his Mexican restaurant Picos. He cited a number of factors, including a decline in business and the death of his brother Alex. Due to an overwhelmingly enthusiastic response from Houstonians, Picos extended its closing until early 2026.

    3. Houston restaurant served Beyoncé a Southern feast for her first meal in H-Town. When Beyoncé Knowles-Carter returned to Houston for two sold-out shows at NRG Stadium, she and her family turned to downtown restaurant Taste Kitchen + Bar for a Southern feast. The epic spread included jerk lamb chops with deep-fried lobster, smothered chicken with collard greens, and the restaurant’s signature chicken and waffles. Later that weekend, Taste chef-owner Don Bowie shared a photo with Jay-Z.

    4. Shaquille O'Neal leaves $1,000 tip at Houston Tex-Mex institution. The NBA Hall-of-Famer, media personality, and restaurateur dined at Ninfa’s Uptown in July. Sitting in the main dining room, he posed for pictures with both fans and the restaurant’s staff. After dining on crispy tacos, he left his server a very generous tip.

    5. James Harden's Houston restaurant locked out over $2.2 million in unpaid rent. The former Houston Rocket’s tenure as a restaurant owner came to an abrupt end in September, when the building’s landlord locked out Thirteen for non-payment of rent. Harden opened Thirteen in 2021, shortly after he left the Rockets for the Brooklyn Nets. In July, he signed a two-year, $81.5 million contract with the Los Angeles Clippers.

    6. Award-winning Houston steakhouse will close after only 2 years. Although it has achieved success and spots in the Michelin Guide with both Candente and The Pit Room, Sambrooks Hospitality couldn’t find an audience for Andiron, its live fire steakhouse in Montrose. Even after pivoting to a more affordable menu, Andiron wasn’t financially viable. New Orleans restaurateur Malachi DuPre claimed the space for Casa Kenji, a new seafood restaurant that blends Japanese and Latin influences.

    7. Surprise chef resignation shutters The Woodlands' best restaurant. Chef Austin Simmons took two spots in this year’s top 10. The sudden closure of Tris, a fine dining steakhouse that drew celebrities such as Joe Rogan, shocked the Houston community. Bari Ristorante, an Italian restaurant in River Oaks District, will open its second location in the space in early 2026.

    8. Top-rated Houston restaurant will close after 8 years in Montrose. Chef Ryan Lachaine cited the increased costs of operating a restaurant when he announced he would close Riel at the end of August. Food enthusiasts and hospitality workers flooded the restaurant for one final meal of caviar tots, pierogies, and other fan favorites. Lachaine found a new position as the executive chef of River Oaks restaurants State of Grace.

    9. Beloved Houston Italian restaurant will close after 27 years in Montrose. Surely one of this year’s saddest closures is Paulie’s, the Italian restaurant in Montrose, and its companion wine bar Camerata. Owner Paul Petronella said he was unable to agree on lease terms with the building’s landlord. Since the announcement, fans have lined up for one last meal of pastas, salads, and decorated shortbread cookies.

    10. Meet the men behind Houston's most under-the-radar Italian restaurant. In this episode of CultureMap’s “What’s Eric Eating” podcast, Mimo owners Mike Sammons and chef Fernando Rios share how working together at Da Marco became the basis of a friendship and business partnership. In addition to discussing their decision to open Mimo and how it has achieved success, the episode also includes insights from both men on Marco Wiles, the pioneering Houston chef and restaurateur behind Da Marco, Vinoteca Poscol, and the late, lamented Dolce Vita pizzeria.

    Austin Simmons Charolais restaurant headshot
    Courtesy of Chef Austin Simmons
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