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    Sip and Shoot

    Drink up: Houston's own Pisco Portón makes a cameo with Shakira

    Caroline Gallay
    Jun 18, 2011 | 11:30 am
    • Johnny Schuler was a connoisseur of wine before falling in love with pisco, agrape-based liquor, 27 years ago.
    • Pisco Portón retails for around $40 at Houston-area Spec's. The beautiful bottleincludes a photograph of the distillery, Hacienda la Caravedo, established in1684.
    • A pisco Portonero
    • Pisco Sour

    The new Shakira video for her latest single, "Rabiosa," has a Houston connection.

    It's not a Houston athlete or one of our famous music producers — it's a bottle of pisco, glimpsed just barely as Shaki writhes in a tub of those balls that used to populate McDonald's playgrounds (and sanitation exposés on the local news). However passing the pisco cameo, it's exciting for those of us who are familiar with the first-ever brand of premium pisco — Pisco Portón.

    Distilled in Peru under the eye of restaurateur and world-renowned pisco authority Johnny Schuler, the Pisco Portón brand was founded by Houston couple Cristina and William Kallop, who split their time between the Bayou City and Lima, Peru (among other travels).

    The Kallops invited Schuler into the pisco-making business two years ago, and Schuler says there was a handshake deal right off the bat. "They told me, 'We want to go into business, but only with you.'"

    The trio bought the oldest distillery in South America — Hacienda la Caravedo, established in 1684 — and got to work.

    This "big, beautiful business opportunity," as Schuler calls it, was the culmination of several years spent as the "self-appointed and then semi-officially appointed" ambassador of Peruvian pisco — financing tasting competitions, giving interviews, and even eliminating all other after-dinner drinks at his own Lima restaurants, Key Club and La Granja Azul.

    But Schuler was not always a pisco authority. He was not always even a fan of the drink.

    Twenty seven years ago Schuler was awakened in the night by a phone call from a dear friend with a dire emergency. "I need a taster," he told Schuler. He was running a pisco competition, and the judges were getting too drunk to be useful.

    Schuler, a great connoisseur of wines (he has more than 2,000 bottles at home) wasn't excited by the offer. But, being a professional taster, he knew to spit between samples, and by his fourth or fifth taste, he was in love. "What is this?" he recalls, "Fruits, flowers — I was in heaven. I think I am about to levitate."

    Schuler didn't believe it was pisco. Traditionally enjoyed en masse in Chile mixed with Coke at a lower proof, or drunk cheaply as pisco sours in Lima, Schuler said it had taken him 40 years to realize that pisco was just like cognac — like wine.

    "To make great pisco, you first make great wine," Schuler says as he pours me a taste. The liquid is clear, distilled in copper in small batches. It's not aged, but is let to rest for around eight months to a year before bottling, and it's distilled to proof — 86 proof — meaning no water is added in the process to dilute the alcohol.

    Each year, one batch of Portón is made the old way, with the grapes pressed by feet. Five percent of each bottle is drawn from that batch, made from the same method it was 250 years ago. Portón is an acholado pisco, or a blend, as opposed to a puro, which is made with only one variety of grape, comparable to a single-malt scotch. It is also a mosto verde, meaning it's distilled before all the sugar has been eaten up by the yeast. That mean's it's expensive to make, and it requires many more grapes.

    Portón is the only mosto verde in the American market. This year's blend is No. 7.

    It's warm to drink, but it doesn't burn. There's something there that reminds me of burnt honey, which I like. Schuler finds this unsurprising, and tells me that his second favorite drink, after pisco, is Maker's Mark and Coke. If you enjoy bourbon, you appreciate Portón.

    Today, Schuler's pisco collection rivals his wine cellar; he has 2,500 labels, dating back to the 1920s. "When I used to bring pisco to a dinner party," he says, "people would joke, 'Johnny, the service entrance is in back!'" Now he envisions making the pisco-making region in Peru a tourist destination akin to California's Napa Valley.

    Schuler's preference is to drink his pisco neat. "I have a privileged nose, he says." But mixologists are playing with pisco, and RDG's barmaster, Paco, has a key lime Portón sour crafted already.

    Here are three alternate ways to enjoy your Portón:

    Pisco Sour - Pisco in its most popular form:
    1.5 oz. Pisco Portón
    .5 oz. fresh lime juice
    .5 oz. simple syrup
    .25 oz. egg white
    1 dash bitters
    Combine ingredients in a shaker with ice and shake. Strain contents into a chilled glass. Add bitters.

    Portonero - How Schuler likes his lunchtime pisco:
    2 oz. Pisco Portón
    1 tsp. fresh lime juice
    1 tsp. simple syrup
    1 slice of fresh ginger
    1 dash of bitters
    Ginger Ale
    Pour first five ingredients into a tall glass filled with ice. Fill with ginger ale, stir and garnish with a lime wedge.

    Leche con Pantera - "Panther's milk":
    Pour the juice from your ceviche into a glass, top with Portón, and drink

    Watch Shakira's "Rabiosa" video below. Can you spot the (Houston) product placement?

    unspecified
    news/restaurants-bars

    steak and putt

    Michelin-recognized chef plans 2 new restaurants at proposed Houston golf club

    Eric Sandler
    Apr 2, 2026 | 5:01 pm
    Michael Fojtasek of Olamaie (4x3 crop)
    Courtesy of Field Guide Festival
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    A bold new plan is taking shaping that will bring a world-class golf course and Michelin-quality restaurant to Houston. Called The Burn Club at Cypress Forest, the proposal aims to transform the former Raveneaux Country Club into a Scottish, links-style course with a restaurant by Michael Fojtasek, chef-owner of Michelin-starred Olamaie in Austin.

    The project is being led by Grover Smith, a hospitality professional with a resume that includes time at Austin’s Foreign & Domestic as well as Houston restaurants such as The Pass & Provisions and Bernadine’s. More recently, Smith operated Indie Chefs Week, which held a series of dinners around the country to showcase up-and-coming culinary talent.

    Smith has submitted a proposal to the Cypress Forest Public Utility District, the government entity that owns the roughly 200-acre property, to lease the land to him for The Burn Club. Using an innovative nonprofit structure, the club would include two restaurants that will be open to the public, a casual concept called Campfire and a more elevated restaurant that's still unnamed.

    The restaurants

    As Fojtasek tells CultureMap, he and Smith reconnected via a mutual friend who knew they both loved golf. Chef Fojtasek is a regular at downtown Austin’s Butler Pitch & Putt, a par-3 golf course where he operates a food truck called Gimme Burger.

    That experience informs his plans for Campfire. Open for breakfast, lunch, and dinner, the restaurant will serve sandwiches, burgers, and comfort food such as fried chicken and a chili-glazed pork chop.

    As for the more fine dining-style restaurant, Fojtasek cites Maie Day, his Michelin-recommend steakhouse at the South Congress Hotel, as a starting point for the menu.

    “I don’t want to call it a steakhouse, but certainly a live fire aspect,” he says. “A restaurant that speaks to what I want to cook, and the dining experience that we want to offer in relation to a place that feels easy to go to.”

    The restaurant’s menu covers a wide range, with starters such as black pepper potato chips with smoked trout roe, tasso ham spoonbread and crab salad, Texas beef tartare, and a throwback chilled tomato aspic. Entrees could include whole grilled red snapper, a tomahawk ribeye, and barbecue grille shrimp.

    “It’s mostly American fare,” he adds. “That’s the vernacular that I’ve traveled in for a long time. Taking some ideas from Olamaie and Maie Day and putting them together to create something that’s good for the neighborhood and folks who live around there.”

    The neighborhood

    Count area resident Braxton Watson as one of the plan’s supporters. He and some of his neighbors recently launched a website to urge other area residents to lobby the PUD board to consider Smith’s proposal, which includes reduced greens and membership fees for homeowners who have already contributed their tax dollars via a bond referendum that was approved in 2025.

    “The problem is we don’t vote on [how to use the land],” Watson says. “People want to know what they can do to help. Be vocal. Share your comments with the PUD. The more and more people we talk to who have no idea what’s going on is frustrating. Our tax dollars are funding the purchase of this land.”

    Watson got a first taste of Fojtasek’s food at a private party Smith held for friends and neighbors. “I’m excited about Michael’s restaurant. Olamaie is amazing. We thought it was an unbelievable deal,” he says.

    The golf course

    Smith has assembled a veteran team to help bring the Burn Clubs to life, including golf course architect Mike Nuzzo, former PGA Tour player Steve Elkington, architect Alex Warr, and golf course builder Heritage Links.

    Members of the PUD board are also considering a proposal from the Dunn Golf Group, which operates courses in Amarillo, San Angelo, and the Dallas-area town of Rockwall. CultureMap reached out to a PUD board member for comment on the proposals but has yet to receive a response.

    Still, Fojtasek has a simple message for his potential landlords.

    “There are two young and hungry operators with great experience, looking to do something for the neighborhood and offer something that’s exceptional for a good value. I think the project is unique and interesting from the perspective of a golf outing . . . that can shine a light on Spring and also Houston at large”

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