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What's Eric Eating Episode 197

Acclaimed barbecue joint's new Spring Branch spot sets Father's Day debut

Eric Sandler
Jun 17, 2021 | 2:35 pm

Father's Day will be even more special than usual for husband-and-wife chef duo Patrick Feges and Erin Smith. The couple will unveil the new Spring Branch location of their restaurant Feges BBQ this Sunday, June 20 (8217 Long Point Rd.).

While the original, Greenway Plaza location of Feges BBQ already earned a spot on Texas Monthly's list of the state's 25 best new barbecue joints for its well-executed smoked meats and creative vegetable sides, the Spring Branch location will offer an even broader menu. As Smith explains during this week's episode of CultureMap's "What's Eric Eating" podcast, diners can expect new dishes such as sandwiches (including a burger), salads, more sides, and entrees like a Southern fried chicken platter and a bulgogi beef rib inspired by the time Feges spent stationed in Korea during his army service.

Even better, the restaurant will be open for lunch Tuesday - Sunday and dinner Tuesday - Saturday, which will allow customers who can't make it to Greenway Plaza during weekday lunch hours to experience Feges BBQ for the first time. Service will be a hybrid model where diners order at a counter and have food and drinks brought to them by a server.

Beyond the expanded menu, Feges BBQ Spring Branch will also serve wines selected by Smith, who worked at acclaimed Montrose wine bar Camerata, and sommelier Chris Poldoian. The 16-bottle list includes wines designed to pair with smoked meats such as the Cleto Chiarli Vecchia Modena Lambrusco, rosé from Austrian winemaker Heidi Schrock, and Chateau Combel La Serre Malbec. Patrick Feges has assembled the restaurant's beer selection, which Smith jokes they've divided into "craft" and "crap."

The dining room features projectors that will screen classic Westerns or relevant sporting events as well as a children's play area — relevant for the couple's son Wyatt who is regularly featured on the restaurant's social media — and custom, Western-themed artwork by Denver-based artist Laura Goodson. Inside, the restaurant seats 120 people with another 50 seats available on an outdoor patio.

Taken together, the new Feges BBQ transcends what many diners typically expect from a barbecue restaurant. It will have a broader menu of non-barbecue options and a more sophisticated beverage program than many of its peers. Smith shares some of her thoughts about the topic of what kind of restaurant she's running with Sandler.

When people ask about our restaurant, 'are you a barbecue restaurant?' I don't know how to answer that question," she says. "Yeah, we're a barbecue restaurant, but I also think we can also legitimately be mentioned in Wine Spectator magazine because we fit in that realm, too. As much as we want to be on barbecue lists, I think we also have a fair shot at being on restaurant lists, non-barbecue. Does that help us or hurt us? Maybe a little bit of both. Maybe the barbecue isn't the highlight because some salad is.

Patrick puts a lot of effort into the barbecue. Barbecue should always be a highlight of your visit if you have it, but we do much more than barbecue.

The interview touches on a number of other subjects: including the various steps Feges BBQ took to survive in Greenway Plaza when its core customer base of office workers suddenly started working from home due to the pandemic; Smith's involvement with local non-profit I'll Have What She's Having; and expectations around the next edition of Texas Monthly's top 50 barbecue joints in Texas list, which will be published later this year.

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Subscribe to "What's Eric Eating" on Apple podcasts, Google Play, or Spotify. Listen to it Saturday at 1 pm on ESPN 97.5.

Feges BBQ opens this Sunday, June 20.

Feges BBQ Spring Branch barbecue table scape
Photo by Julie Soefer
Feges BBQ opens this Sunday, June 20.
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we gotta go

Beard-winning Houston chef shares first details of new Montrose restaurant

Eric Sandler
Jul 13, 2026 | 11:52 am
House of Louie
Photo by Kirsten Gilliam
Pasta and cold seafood will be on the menu at House of Louie.

Houston hospitality veterans Bobby Heugel and chef Justin Yu are sharing more details about House of Louie, their new neighborhood restaurant that’s opening this summer in the former Vibrant space at 1931 Fairview Ave. It’s the duo’s first new restaurant since opening Squable in 2019.

Almost a year after announcing their plans for the project, chef Yu, a James Beard Award winner and Food & Wine Best New Chef honoree, shares in press materials that the restaurant’s name and spirit takes inspiration from an establishment operated by his aunts, Betty Louie and Josephine Yeung, for over 30 years in the Los Angeles area.

“House of Louie was how I fell in love with restaurants. There was a magic there,” Yu said in a statement. “It was always a happy place for me, and for all its guests who came from all around the Los Angeles area to go to it. It was just one of those restaurants where it was exactly what you wanted, when you wanted it, but also a restaurant that gave you more than you expected.”

Yu describes the menu as having a “French-Italian soul” that will also incorporate “the smirk of Modern American cooking,” which allows the chef to sidestep criticisms of whether or not his food is a sufficiently authentic version of those two culinary traditions. As with Theodore Rex, his downtown restaurant that holds a Bib Gourmand designation in the Michelin Guide, dishes at House of Louie will be defined by well-sourced ingredients and delicate saucework.

Meals at the restaurant could begin with dishes such as salads or raw seafood items, including yellowtail alla scapece (cured in chardonnay vinegar) or spot shrimp marinated in Pernod with bergamot and fennel pollen. Pastas, which will be in-house, include a fried lasagna with ragu bianco and Comte cheese fondue. Entrees include roast duck and chicken brined with house-made giardiniera, the spicy topping typically associated with Italian beef sandwiches. Of course, vegetables will be well-represented throughout the menu.

Bobby Heugel, Yu’s partner in the Thorough Fare Co. hospitality group and the founder of bars such as Anvil and Refuge, is overseeing the bar’s cocktail program. Expect martinis galore and seasonal cocktails made with Gulf Coast ingredients. One example is the The Fair View, a riff on the classic Rome with a View made with local roselle hibiscus, Becherovka, dry sherry, and gen tian tea, that’s finished with sparkling wine and pineapple.

The duo aren’t ready to share interior photos, but they describe the renovations as a “simple remake” that enlisted support from local craftspeople including Garnish Design (Milton’s, Tiny Champions), ObjektFab, and Ford Design Finishes. “Just like when you cook a beautiful piece of fish or a carrot that was cared for as it was grown, you do just enough to something beautiful to make it yours,” Yu added.

Joining the project are general manager Tyler Jay Wang, whose resume includes acclaimed Boston establishments No 9 Park and Drink, and executive chef Kirk Thompson, who worked for various Underbelly Hospitality concepts and served as the executive chef at Leo’s River Oaks when it won Best New Restaurant in the 2025 CultureMap Tastemaker Awards.

House of Louie will be open daily for dinner. Friday lunch and weekend brunch service will be added in the future.

House of Louie

Photo by Kirsten Gilliam

Pasta and cold seafood will be on the menu at House of Louie.

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