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    What's Eric Eating Episode 197

    Acclaimed barbecue joint's new Spring Branch spot sets Father's Day debut

    Eric Sandler
    Jun 17, 2021 | 2:35 pm

    Father's Day will be even more special than usual for husband-and-wife chef duo Patrick Feges and Erin Smith. The couple will unveil the new Spring Branch location of their restaurant Feges BBQ this Sunday, June 20 (8217 Long Point Rd.).

    While the original, Greenway Plaza location of Feges BBQ already earned a spot on Texas Monthly's list of the state's 25 best new barbecue joints for its well-executed smoked meats and creative vegetable sides, the Spring Branch location will offer an even broader menu. As Smith explains during this week's episode of CultureMap's "What's Eric Eating" podcast, diners can expect new dishes such as sandwiches (including a burger), salads, more sides, and entrees like a Southern fried chicken platter and a bulgogi beef rib inspired by the time Feges spent stationed in Korea during his army service.

    Even better, the restaurant will be open for lunch Tuesday - Sunday and dinner Tuesday - Saturday, which will allow customers who can't make it to Greenway Plaza during weekday lunch hours to experience Feges BBQ for the first time. Service will be a hybrid model where diners order at a counter and have food and drinks brought to them by a server.

    Beyond the expanded menu, Feges BBQ Spring Branch will also serve wines selected by Smith, who worked at acclaimed Montrose wine bar Camerata, and sommelier Chris Poldoian. The 16-bottle list includes wines designed to pair with smoked meats such as the Cleto Chiarli Vecchia Modena Lambrusco, rosé from Austrian winemaker Heidi Schrock, and Chateau Combel La Serre Malbec. Patrick Feges has assembled the restaurant's beer selection, which Smith jokes they've divided into "craft" and "crap."

    The dining room features projectors that will screen classic Westerns or relevant sporting events as well as a children's play area — relevant for the couple's son Wyatt who is regularly featured on the restaurant's social media — and custom, Western-themed artwork by Denver-based artist Laura Goodson. Inside, the restaurant seats 120 people with another 50 seats available on an outdoor patio.

    Taken together, the new Feges BBQ transcends what many diners typically expect from a barbecue restaurant. It will have a broader menu of non-barbecue options and a more sophisticated beverage program than many of its peers. Smith shares some of her thoughts about the topic of what kind of restaurant she's running with Sandler.

    When people ask about our restaurant, 'are you a barbecue restaurant?' I don't know how to answer that question," she says. "Yeah, we're a barbecue restaurant, but I also think we can also legitimately be mentioned in Wine Spectator magazine because we fit in that realm, too. As much as we want to be on barbecue lists, I think we also have a fair shot at being on restaurant lists, non-barbecue. Does that help us or hurt us? Maybe a little bit of both. Maybe the barbecue isn't the highlight because some salad is.

    Patrick puts a lot of effort into the barbecue. Barbecue should always be a highlight of your visit if you have it, but we do much more than barbecue.

    The interview touches on a number of other subjects: including the various steps Feges BBQ took to survive in Greenway Plaza when its core customer base of office workers suddenly started working from home due to the pandemic; Smith's involvement with local non-profit I'll Have What She's Having; and expectations around the next edition of Texas Monthly's top 50 barbecue joints in Texas list, which will be published later this year.

    -----

    Subscribe to "What's Eric Eating" on Apple podcasts, Google Play, or Spotify. Listen to it Saturday at 1 pm on ESPN 97.5.

    Feges BBQ opens this Sunday, June 20.

    Feges BBQ Spring Branch barbecue table scape
    Photo by Julie Soefer
    Feges BBQ opens this Sunday, June 20.
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    meet the tastemakers

    Houston's 11 best chefs of 2026 are leading the city's rise to prominence

    Eric Sandler
    Apr 13, 2026 | 5:02 pm
    Felipe Riccio March
    Photo by Zachary Horst
    Felipe Riccio, March.

    We’ve reached the final category in the 2026 CultureMap Tastemaker Awards. These are the nominees for Chef of the Year.

    This year’s nominees are an accomplished group. They hold Michelin stars and received Bib Gourmand designations. They are James Beard Award semifinalists, finalists, and winners. They’ve competed on Top Chef.

    Of course they all serve consistently well-prepared dishes that keep diners coming back again and again. They’re also leaders and mentors who are guiding the next generation of cooks who will make their own mark on the dining scene. Many are involved in a number of local nonprofits, including I’ll Have What She’s Having and the Southern Smoke Foundation.

    Who will win? Find out this Thursday, April 16, at the Tastemaker Awards party at Silver Street Studios. We’ll dine on bites from this year’s nominated restaurants and sip cocktails from our sponsors before revealing the winners in our short and sweet ceremony.

    A limited number of tickets remain. Buy yours before they sell out.

    Here are the nominees for Chef of the Year:

    Benchawan Jabthong Painter, Street to Kitchen
    The first Houstonian to win the James Beard Award for Best Chef: Texas, Chef G, as she’s known to friends and supporters, continues to make Street to Kitchen one of Houston’s destination restaurants. Regular travels back home to Thailand inspire new dishes on the menu, and G has also embraced her inner Texan with a rotating selection of steaks and chops. Her warm personality also sets the tone for the friendly service diners can expect at Street to Kitchen.

    Evelyn Garcia and Henry Lu, Jūn
    The two friends and business partners have come a long way since their days of serving meals under a tent at area farmers markets. Now, they’re James Beard Award finalists for Best Chef: Texas, Top Chef alumni, and they successfully spun up a daytime concept, Third Place, that hosts the city’s most intriguing roster of pop-ups. If that weren’t enough, they released debuted Loaded Potatoes, a new podcast that showcases their distinct perspectives on food and culture.

    Felipe Riccio, March
    As the leader of Houston’s one-star, Mediterranean-inspired tasting menu restaurant, Riccio leads the ultra-ambitious team that changes its entire menu twice per year. Not only does this effort require extensive research, training, and preparation, it only requires the discipline necessary to execute at a consistently high level to meet the expectations of diners who are fully aware of the restaurant’s lofty reputation.

    Jassi Bindra, Amrina/Kitchen Rumors
    Houstonians already knew Bindra could execute fine dining cuisine based on his success at Amrina, but the chef also showcased his adeptness with casual fare at twin concepts Bol and Pok Pok Po. He dialed up the creativity at Kitchen Rumors, bringing Indian flavors to everything from pot roast to ramen. Although his Top Chef experience came to an abrupt end in only this season’s second episode, he’ll remain a local chef whose future projects will always be worth sampling.

    Lucas McKinney, Josephine's
    Already a winner of Rising Star Chef of the Year, McKinney steps into Chef of the Year consideration after leading Josephine’s to a Recommended designation in the Michelin Guide. The inspectors praises dishes like the crab fat rice bowl and shrimp po’ boy, but they neglected to include McKinney’s world-class crawfish. That just means more for us.

    Manabu Horiuchi, Katami/Kata Robata/Sushi Horiuchi
    Known to all as Hori-san, your favorite chef’s favorite chef is riding higher than ever. Katami, his ode to contemporary Japanese fine dining, quickly established itself as one of Houston’s most sought after reservations and earned the chef a James Beard Award semifinalist nomination for America's best chef. More recently, he opened Sushi Horiuchi, a six-seat omakase counter that gives diners an even most personal experience. While diners should certainly engage with him about the dishes they’re eating, we also suggest asking him about his favorite karaoke songs.

    Mayank Istwal, Musaafer
    As the leader of Houston’s only Michelin-starred Indian fine dining restaurant, Istwal oversees an impressive restaurant that offers both a la carte and tasting menus. With Musaafer’s recent expansion to New York City, he’s also the only nominee to be dividing his time between two cities. Thankfully, he’s built a strong team who can ensure Musaafer remains consistent even when he’s in the Big Apple.

    Nick Wong, Agnes and Sherman
    Known for leading UB Preserv to a best new restaurant award from Texas Monthly, Wong returned to the kitchen with this Asian American diner in the Heights, which also earned best new restaurant nods from both Texas Monthly and finalist status in the James Beard Awards. The wide-ranging menu applies his unique perspective to everything from fried chicken and club sandwiches to egg foo young and pasta bolognese — made with Korean rice dumplings, natch. While his commitment to make Agnes and Sherman a good place to work is certainly worthy of respect, he deserves this nomination simply for introducing Houston to cheeseburger fried rice.

    Shawn Gawle, Camaraderie
    A former Pastry Chef of the Year winner for his work at Goodnight Hospitality, Gawle has been showing off his savory chops at this restaurant in the Heights. The restaurant’s prix fixe menu reflects the style of dining Gawle enjoys the most, where friends share a meal and conversation. Recently, the chef has been inviting guest chefs such as Rebecca Mason and Raffi Nasr in for can’t-miss collabs.

    Thomas Bille, Belly of the Beast
    As the winner of Best Chef: Texas in the 2025 James Beard Awards and a Bib Gourmand designation in the Michelin Guide, Belly of the Beast no longer qualifies as a hidden gem. Still, Bille isn’t resting on his laurels. He added a tasting menu to Belly of the Beast’s offerings and continues to roll out new dishes that explore the intersection of Mexican flavors with other immigrant cuisines.

    ----

    The Tastemaker Awards ceremony is sponsored in Houston by Maker's Mark, Culinary Khancepts, Herradura Tequila, Ritual Zero Proof + Seedlip, Shutto, NXT LVL EVENT, and more to be announced. A portion of proceeds will benefit our nonprofit partner, the Southern Smoke Foundation.

    Felipe Riccio March
    Photo by Zachary Horst
    Felipe Riccio, March.
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