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    What's Eric Eating Episode 96

    Meet a legendary Texas pitmaster, plus a rockin' Montrose makeover

    CultureMap Staff
    May 30, 2019 | 1:17 pm

    On this week's episode of "What's Eric Eating," Louie Mueller Barbecue owner-pitmaster Wayne Mueller joins CultureMap food editor Eric Sandler to discuss the restaurant that Sandler calls "his favorite Texas barbecue joint."

    The conversation begins with Mueller recounting what it was like to grow up in the business working alongside his father, legendary pitmaster Bobby Mueller. Wayne explains that he didn't appreciate the restaurant's significance as a child, but recognition from the James Beard Foundation — and a plea from his father to help manage the business — prompted him to return to Taylor and become the third generation of the family to operate the establishment.

    The conversation hits a number of topics, including Mueller's thoughts on the way that homogenization in barbecue cooking methods spurred innovation in sides and desserts. While that process has removed the charm of small-town barbecue joints that each cooked things a little differently, standardization has made it possible for Texas-style barbecue to be exported across the country and around the world. Mueller has a strong opinion on which market has the most potential.

    California is one of those virgin sort of territories. You've got Trudy's in L.A;, Moo's Craft, they're making a niche. You've got Horn up in the Bay Area, but those are probably the most popular and well known and doing the best, I think. But you're talking about, what, 14, 15-million their pop-ups are trying to serve? That to me is mind boggling.

    Environmental pressures and regulations really make it difficult in the West Coast, but that doesn't mean there aren't inroads that can't be made and that these things can't be done. It's just a matter of someone having the fortitude to make it happen. Because the first one that breaks through and gets the whole wood-fired, offset smoker in Los Angeles approved, they're going to explode. That's what Los Angeles is like. Anything that's popular, there's all the money you need out there to invest and make it grow quickly. They're holding out. They're going to fight for tri-tip, but I think it's going to succumb.

    Prior to Mueller joining the show, Sandler and co-host Matt Harris discuss the news of the week. Their topics include: an in-depth discussion about the legacy of The Pass & Provisions now that it's closed; the news that Ben Berg will open a second location of B.B. Lemon in the former Pax Americana space; and Food & Wine naming Restaurant Indigo one of the country's best new restaurants.

    In the restaurants of the week segment, they discuss their experiences at Squable, the new Heights restaurant from Better Luck Tomorrow partners Bobby Heugel and Justin Yu, and Rudyard's, where chef Anthony Calleo has rolled out a new menu.

    ---

    Subscribe to "What's Eric Eating" on Apple podcasts, Google Play, or Spotify.

    Wayne Mueller is this week's guest.

    Wayne Mueller Louie Mueller Barbecue
    Louie Mueller Barbecue/Facebook
    Wayne Mueller is this week's guest.
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    Coming soon to Fredericksburg

    Houston restaurant vet serves up Roman-style eatery in the Hill Country

    Brandon Watson
    Dec 26, 2025 | 3:30 pm
    Bottega Salaria Fredericksburg
    Photo courtesy of Bottega Salaria
    Valerio Lombardozzi is opening Bottega Salaria in the former home of La Bergerie.

    Valerio Lombardozzi’s culinary career has taken him to the world’s finest kitchens, including restaurants owned by icons like Alain Ducasse, Giorgio Locatelli, and Joël Robuchon. In Houston, he led La Table and Tavola, where he earned a reputation for being one of the city's most engaging front of the house personalities.

    But his latest project might be his biggest accomplishment yet. The hospitality veteran is opening Bottega Salaria, a homey Italian osteria and artisan market, in the former home of La Bergerie at 312 E Austin St in his adopted home of Fredericksburg.

    Lombardozzi says the restaurant, expected to arrive in winter 2026, fills a gap in the Hill Country dining scene, but, more importantly, it's a reflection of his personal history and time spent working at his family’s restaurant in Rome.

    “[It’s about] where I grew up, how I grew up, and how I eat,” he shares.

    The three-concept experience is inspired by Italy’s Via Salaria, the ancient route Italians used to transport salt from the Adriatic Sea to Rome. The menu acts as a sort of travelogue, borrowing from the different cultures along the road, and the way village fishermen and shepherds ate.

    Lombardozzi is quick to say he didn’t want to open a chef-driven restaurant. Instead, the osteria will serve traditional Roman staples such as cacio e pepe, amatriciana, carbonara, saltimbocca with sage and prosciutto, and branzino carved tableside.

    “I was one of the last to be exposed to the old generation of professionals who knew how to carve elegantly for the guests,” he says.

    The adjacent bottega will stay open during restaurant hours, offering fresh pasta made on-site, house-made sauces, imported Italian pantry items, cheeses, salumi, breads, and biscotti. Patrons will be able to shop for individual items or put together custom gift baskets.

    Outdoors, La Fraschetteria will debut a new hospitality experience in the U.S. The self-guided experience invites diners to grab wine directly from garden shelves, gather a spread of meats, cheeses, bread, or pasta, and linger around long communal tables lit by string lights.

    Keeping the chit-chat going will be a thoughtful beverage program anchored by a primarily Italian wine list and imported beer. Lombardozzi says the cocktail menu might be a surprise, offering only gin and tonics, spritzes, and negronis. The latter has been made into a game where diners roll dice to determine the evening's combination of gin, vermouth, and bitters.

    After dinner, guests can select an amaro from a rolling cart, sip grappa and limoncello, or sip a neat whiskey.

    Lombardozzi shares that he wants Bottega Salaria to be just as comfortable for Fredericksburg locals as it is for destination travelers. Beyond daily service, Bottega Salaria plans community events such as garden wine nights with live music, Sunday movie nights, and hands-on cooking classes.

    The space is designed for ease with a warm palette combining olive green and pomegranate reds. The decor blends heritage and modernity, bringing in objects like antique mirrors, plates, custom-made lamps, and even old tablecloths and curtains for an Old World feel.

    "We’re not just opening a restaurant,” Lombardozzi says. “We’re creating a gathering place. A home for everyone who loves Italian food, culture, and the joy of sharing a meal with others.”

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