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    What's Eric Eating Episode 240

    Houston’s Ultimate BBQ Draft picks smokin’ selections from the hottest local joints

    CultureMap Staff
    May 12, 2022 | 9:30 am
    Truth BBQ barbecue tray
    Brisket from Truth Barbecue goes first overall.
    Photo by Robert Jacob Lerma

    On this week's episode of "What's Eric Eating," CultureMap food editor Eric Sandler forgoes his usual podcast format for a special episode that's all about barbecue. Together with his friends Matt Harris, Michael Fulmer, Anthony Compofelice, and Felice Sloan, he conducts the Ultimate Houston BBQ Draft.

    Structured as a fantasy football-style snake draft, each participant is required to select three meats, two sides, a dessert, and a wild card, which is either a weekly special or a composed plate with a barbecue component. Each may only select a restaurant once; no one may take multiple meats or sides from the same barbecue joint.

    Sandler leads things off by taking Truth Barbecue's brisket with the first selection. He's followed by CorkScrew BBQ's cobbler (Harris), CorkScrew BBQ's brisket (Compofelice), Brett's Barbecue Shop's brisket (Fulmer), and Killen's Barbecue's beef rib (Sloan). Over the course of the seven rounds, the selections pull primarily from restaurants included in Texas Monthly's list of the state's 50 best barbecue joints, but it also contains a few surprises along the way.

    The draft segment concludes with the panelists reflecting on the most prominent items that they didn't select. Houston's smoked meat talent is so deep that it's easy to imagine a sixth team that could hold its own with any of the participants' selections.

    After the draft, Dozier's BBQ pitmaster Jim Buchanan joins the show to offer his opinion about who "won" the contest. He and Sandler also discuss the Fulshear restaurant's recently launched weekend dinner service. Yes, the menu includes Buchanan's signature smoked meatloaf.

    "What's Eric Eating" will return to its normal format next week.

    -----

    Subscribe to "What's Eric Eating" on Apple podcasts, Google Play, or Spotify. Listen to it Saturday at 1 pm on ESPN 97.5.

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    Chris Shepherd gives thanks for underrated wine and talented Houston doctors

    Chris Shepherd
    Jan 2, 2026 | 1:00 pm
    Sandlands wine bottles
    Photo by Chris Shepherd
    Chris has been enjoying wines from California's Lodi region.

    I know my articles have been a bit scarce these past few months, and I owe you an apology. Life shifted in a big way. In September, my wife Lindsey was diagnosed with breast cancer, and our world narrowed, in the best possible way — to home, health, and the fight in front of us.

    The first and most important thing I’m thankful for is early detection and the city we live in. Having MD Anderson here in Houston is a gift I’ll never take lightly. Lindsey is doing great with treatment. She’s an absolute warrior, and this experience has a way of reframing everything. It forces you to look back, take inventory, and find purpose in both the good and the hard. Today, we’re focusing on the good.

    I love documenting delicious bottles, great bites, and the people we share them with. Every year, I scroll back through my photos to see if my drinking patterns have changed. The answer? A little, but not dramatically. That’s part of what makes wine so fascinating — it’s alive, always evolving, and so are we.

    Chablis and Sangiovese were heavy hitters in 2024 and carried right into 2025. But on the white side, I found myself diving deeper into Aligoté, Burgundy’s other white grape. While Chardonnay is the big dog, Aligoté deserves your attention. Think green apple, citrus, herbal, and floral notes, with bright energy and lift. The real bonus? You can drink Aligoté from top Burgundy producers at a much friendlier price point. It punches well above its weight and belongs on your table.

    I’ve also been blown away by Chardonnay from northern Oregon. Early mistakes with clones led to wines that never quite found balance, but producers committed to getting it right with different clones that did much better in cooler sites, with less oak and shorter barrel time. Barrels should be nurturing vessels, not seasoning agents. Producers like North Valley, Soter, and Alexana are making some of the best Chardonnay I’ve had in years, and I am here for it.

    This past year also brought new adventures, including a month-long stay in Healdsburg, California in July. With a Southern Smoke event and another trip already planned, we packed up the cats, rented a house, and lived somewhere else for a while. It was magical and something I hope we do again.

    While out there, my friend Tegan Passalacqua (Turley Vineyards, Sandlands) invited me to Lodi to taste what’s happening in that region. Lodi has long been known for bulk wine, but the story runs much deeper. Sitting just outside the Sierra Foothills, the region was shaped by massive geological shifts millions of years ago that helped it draw settlers searching for gold in the 1800s. They brought vines with them: Zinfandel, Syrah, and countless lesser-known varieties that are finally getting their moment.

    Zinfandel, genetically linked to Tribidrag (Croatia) and Primitivo (Italy), has been thriving there since the 1850s. After its boom in the early 2000s and an era of ultra-ripe, high-alcohol styles it lost some favor. But tastes change. What’s coming from Lodi’s old vines today is refined, balanced, and beautiful.

    “Think head-trained, dry-farmed, own-rooted vines — some 100 to 150 years old — producing wines that speak clearly of place,” Passalacqua tells me. His Zins sit around 14.5-percent alcohol, elegant and structured, a far cry from the 16-17-percent monsters of decades past.

    One of my newest obsessions is Old Vine Cinsault from the Bechthold Vineyard, planted in 1885. Traditionally a blending grape in southern France, here it shines on its own with bright red fruit and soft tannins — an incredibly crushable wine. If you love lighter Pinot Noir or Gamay, this will make you smile. Look for bottles from Sandlands, Turley, Lorenza, Birichino, and others.

    So here’s the takeaway, like always: break down the walls you’ve been drinking behind. Try something new. Aligoté and Lodi aren’t new but they don’t need to be. They just need people willing to make them cool again. Trust me, they’re delicious and deserving.

    And in the words of the late, great Jerry Garcia:

    Sandlands wine bottles

    Photo by Chris Shepherd

    Chris has been enjoying wines from California's Lodi region.

    Wake up to find out that you are the eyes of the world
    The heart has its beaches, its homeland and thoughts of its own
    Wake now, discover that you are the song that the morning brings
    The heart has its seasons, its evenings and songs of its own

    Happy New Year, team. Never forget to be kind and show love.

    chris shepherdwine
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