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    The hummus is back

    Chris Shepherd fires up the pita for his comforting One Fifth revival

    Eric Sandler
    May 6, 2020 | 9:50 am
    One Fifth Mediterranean dips
    One Fifth Mediterranean returns Friday.
    Photo by Julie Soefer

    Chris Shepherd has good news and bad news about the future of his One Fifth, his Montrose restaurant that annually changes concepts.

    The bad news is that he’s scrapped plans to reboot the restaurant as One Fifth Lightning Round. Announced in February, the ambitious project would have seen the restaurant cycle through a number of different concepts — Vietnamese, Russian, Italian, etc. — every few months.

    Instead, Shepherd and One Fifth chef de cuisine Matt Staph have decided to revive the restaurant’s Mediterranean concept that ran from September 2018 to July 2019. Beginning Friday, May 8, Staph will start serving OFM signatures like Turkish hummus, taboon-roasted tomatoes with whipped feta, and kebabs.

    Shepherd tells CultureMap that the restaurant’s menu is well-suited to a time when restaurants are serving customers to-go due to the coronavirus.

    “We don’t know what’s going to happen. We’ve got 18 months [left on the building’s lease],” he says. “We could still be doing this for 18 months, who knows? It’s the perfect food for to-go. The staff love it, and I miss it.”

    Additionally, the restaurant’s physical setup includes a door in the kitchen that leads directly to the parking lot, which will make curbside service easy. A relatively affordable price point and the food’s ability to reheat well as leftovers also influenced the decision.

    “I want some kibbeh nayeh, I want some hummus, I want some kebabs. And I want it in my refrigerator,” Shepherd says. “When you get takeout food, you get it and you may eat it the next day, too. I think coffee-roasted beets, it’s still as good tomorrow as it was when you got it. Even kebabs and pita warm up nice.”

    Last week, Staph held a little trial run by offering hummus and pita through Georgia James’ online marketplace. It sold out in minutes. “It was, like, ok, the people have spoken,” he says. That impulse fits the chef’s own cravings, too.

    “I want to jam hummus and pita in my face everyday, especially that stuff,” Shepherd says. “Matt has that dialed in so good. To be able to take that Turkish hummus as a take-and-bake, let’s go.”

    Intrigued? The restaurant is offering a three-course, Mother’s Day feast for four that includes hummus, vegetable dishes like coffee-roasted beets and roasted tomatoes, lamb merguez with cucumber labneh, yogurt-marinated half chicken, and katafi cheesecake. It costs $160 and can be ordered via One Fifth’s website.

    chefsnews-you-can-eat
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    Bernadine's Revived?

    Houston chef takes flight with new Gulf Coast seafood spot in the Heights

    Eric Sandler
    Sep 4, 2026 | 9:01 am
    Southern Smoke Festival 2022 Graham Laborde Paige Gallaspy Laborde
    Photo by Emily Jaschke
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    Everything old is new again for Graham Laborde. The chef, a co-owner of Midtown sandwich favorite Winnie’s, will open a new, Gulf Coast-inspired seafood restaurant in the Heights called Little Bird.

    If that sounds familiar, it’s because Laborde once led Bernadine’s, a “love letter” to Gulf Coast cuisine that operated in the Heights from 2015 until 2017. While Little Bird is a distinct restaurant with its own identity, diners with a long enough memory will certainly see some commonalities between the two restaurants.

    “I’m a firm believer in playing to my strengths, I don’t think any of the cooking I’ve done either at Bernadine’s or Winnie’s or Little Bird, which you’ll soon see, does anything but play to my strengths,” Laborde tells CultureMap. You can’t change who you are. This is the cuisine I know and love. It’s what I’m best at. I’m excited to do it.”

    Laborde has claimed the former Flying Fish/The Kid space (1815 N. Durham) for Little Bird, which is just around the corner from where Bernadine’s used to be (it’s now Star Rover). Plans call for about 150 seats, private dining rooms, and an air-conditioned patio. Details include a hand-carved wooden oyster bar and a mural by Houston artists Whitney Garrett-Yarbrough and Dayle Booth.

    The menu is still under development, but don’t be surprised if at least a couple of Bernadine’s dishes show up. “I’ve grown a lot over the last 10 years. I think that my style, my palate has grown a lot, too. The menu is a work in progress, but I’m excited to hammer it out,” he says.

    Adding to the “getting the band back together” vibe are some of the people helping Laborde bring Little Bird to life. Julia Doran, who served as Bernadine’s pastry chef before a length stint at Nancy’s Hustle and Tiny Champions, is consulting on the dessert program. Chelsea Thomas, formerly Bernadine’s assistant general manager, will serve as general manager at the new restaurant (full disclosure: Thomas is a regular contributor to CultureMap’s “What’s Eric Eating” podcast). Bartender Justin Ware, director of operations for Winnie’s, Johnny’s Gold Brick, and Starduster Lounge, will oversee Little Bird’s beverage offerings.

    The chef is excited to be back in the Heights, a neighborhood he knows well.

    “I first moved to the Heights straight from New Orleans. I noticed Heights Blvd had a middle ground. It made the transition so much easier,” Laborde says. “I’ve lived in the Heights and Garden Oaks for 16 years. It’s my home. I’m thrilled to be back here.”

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