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    The hummus is back

    Chris Shepherd fires up the pita for his comforting One Fifth revival

    Eric Sandler
    May 6, 2020 | 9:50 am
    One Fifth Mediterranean dips
    One Fifth Mediterranean returns Friday.
    Photo by Julie Soefer

    Chris Shepherd has good news and bad news about the future of his One Fifth, his Montrose restaurant that annually changes concepts.

    The bad news is that he’s scrapped plans to reboot the restaurant as One Fifth Lightning Round. Announced in February, the ambitious project would have seen the restaurant cycle through a number of different concepts — Vietnamese, Russian, Italian, etc. — every few months.

    Instead, Shepherd and One Fifth chef de cuisine Matt Staph have decided to revive the restaurant’s Mediterranean concept that ran from September 2018 to July 2019. Beginning Friday, May 8, Staph will start serving OFM signatures like Turkish hummus, taboon-roasted tomatoes with whipped feta, and kebabs.

    Shepherd tells CultureMap that the restaurant’s menu is well-suited to a time when restaurants are serving customers to-go due to the coronavirus.

    “We don’t know what’s going to happen. We’ve got 18 months [left on the building’s lease],” he says. “We could still be doing this for 18 months, who knows? It’s the perfect food for to-go. The staff love it, and I miss it.”

    Additionally, the restaurant’s physical setup includes a door in the kitchen that leads directly to the parking lot, which will make curbside service easy. A relatively affordable price point and the food’s ability to reheat well as leftovers also influenced the decision.

    “I want some kibbeh nayeh, I want some hummus, I want some kebabs. And I want it in my refrigerator,” Shepherd says. “When you get takeout food, you get it and you may eat it the next day, too. I think coffee-roasted beets, it’s still as good tomorrow as it was when you got it. Even kebabs and pita warm up nice.”

    Last week, Staph held a little trial run by offering hummus and pita through Georgia James’ online marketplace. It sold out in minutes. “It was, like, ok, the people have spoken,” he says. That impulse fits the chef’s own cravings, too.

    “I want to jam hummus and pita in my face everyday, especially that stuff,” Shepherd says. “Matt has that dialed in so good. To be able to take that Turkish hummus as a take-and-bake, let’s go.”

    Intrigued? The restaurant is offering a three-course, Mother’s Day feast for four that includes hummus, vegetable dishes like coffee-roasted beets and roasted tomatoes, lamb merguez with cucumber labneh, yogurt-marinated half chicken, and katafi cheesecake. It costs $160 and can be ordered via One Fifth’s website.

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    TK's dinner at Baso

    Star chef Thomas Keller feasts at Michelin-recognized Houston restaurant

    Eric Sandler
    Oct 19, 2026 | 4:56 pm
    Thomas Keller Baso Max Lappe Jacques Varon
    Courtesy of Baso
    Edwin Castro, Fernando Acosta, Max Lappe, Thomas Keller, Jacques Varon, Aaron Gutierrez, Adam Blodgett, and Sam Ainslie.

    It isn’t every day that the dean of American chefs dines at a Houston restaurant, but that’s what happened Sunday, October 18 when culinary superstar Thomas Keller visited Baso in the Heights.

    Best known for his restaurants The French Laundry in Yountville, California and Per Se in New York City, both of which hold three Michelin stars, Keller has won multiple James Beard Awards, including the highly covered prizes for Outstanding Chef and Outstanding Restaurateur. The French Laundry held the No. 1 spot in the World’s 50 Best in both 2003 and 2004. Netflix documentary series Chef’s Table profiled him in a 2025 episode.

    Baso co-executive chef Max Lappe tells CultureMap that Charles Carroll, executive chef of the River Oaks Country Club, sent an email to let the restaurant know that Keller wanted to visit while he was in town.

    “I slapped my laptop shut and my heart sank into my ankles,” Lappe says “I felt like I was going to collapse. It was a feeling I rarely experience, just the mail, how much excitement it brought me.”

    “I didn’t believe it for the first 10 seconds. How could this be real? He’s the most important American chef of all time,” Baso owner and co-executive chef Jacques Varon adds. “I’ve had people I admire and respect greatly dine with us but never someone like this come into the restaurant.”

    Rather than throw the restaurant’s entire menu at Keller and his friend, the chefs let him order most of his meal, including sweet shrimp, pepper toast, okra, maitake mushroom, endive salad, and the signature pork chop with pork jowl condiment. The chefs sent Keller two roasted oysters — he liked them enough order to two more — and a tomato dish. He had a slice of Basque cheesecake for dessert.

    “We discussed, how do we take care of him, especially for someone who’s traveled so much and eaten at the best restaurants in the world,” Lappe says. “I imagine there’s — maybe burden isn’t the right word — but it can be selfish to take over a meal and feed someone like your grandma tried to feed you.”

    According to Lappe and Varon, Keller was an excellent guest. He posed for pictures with the staff (see above) and praised the experience. The staff signed a Baso hat as a souvenir.

    Keller’s visit is only the latest accolade for Baso, a live fire restaurant that applies Basque culinary techniques to Texas ingredients. In the spring, Varon and Lappe earned their first James Beard Award semifinalist nomination in the Emerging Chef category. More recently, not only did Baso retain its Recommended status in the Michelin Guide, Varon and Lappe earned the Young Chef Award. Still, Keller’s compliments moved both chefs.

    “As best as you can do when Thomas Keller is in your restaurant, I was pretty calm and collected,” Lappe says about the moment when he delivered one of Keller’s dishes to his table. “I could feel my lip quivering. As soon as I walked back to the kitchen, I walked into a closet and had to let it out a little bit.”

    “He told Gus [Valenga, one of Baso’s captains], ‘I didn’t know restaurants like this exist in Houston,’” Varon says. “That sent me to the moon. That’s one of the most complimentary things I’ve ever been told in my life.”

    Thomas Keller Baso Max Lappe Jacques Varon

    Courtesy of Baso

    Edwin Castro, Fernando Acosta, Max Lappe, Thomas Keller, Jacques Varon, Aaron Gutierrez, Adam Blodgett, and Sam Ainslie.

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