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    Where to Eat Right Now

    Where to Eat Right Now: 10 must-try restaurants for May, including Kemah food lab and burger newbies

    Eric Sandler
    May 6, 2015 | 12:04 pm

    The number of new restaurants in Houston slowed a bit in May, but the city's fervid dining scene still continues to produce a crop of intriguing newcomers. Even in a time when the most high-profile new openings were probably the arrival of South African restaurant Peli Peli to the Galleria and the latest El Tiempo, the last month or so has produced some places that are worth your time.

    While this month's list is admittedly burger-heavy (not that anyone's complaining), it also features a new Italian option for Rice Village, an upscale tasting menu destination in Kemah and a restaurant in The Woodlands that's serving destination-worthy croissants.

    Let's get to it. As always, these are listed in roughly the order I think you should try them, but use your intelligence guided by your experience to determine which are best for you.

    Grafitti's at Union Street
    The Washington Avenue restaurant boom of 2015 continues at this recently-opened spot that features half-pound burgers and massive portions of comfort classics like chicken fried steak. Despite cooking the burgers to medium-well, the thick patties hold up and are still juicy. Both the housemade fried pickles chips and chicken fried steak are excellent. The retro-decor has an undeniable charm, and the fast-casual service model works well in this environment. I'll be back to sample one of the classic cocktails from the full bar and a jar of banana pudding.

    Sud Italia
    Former Arturo's Uptown Italiano general manager Shanon Scott has set off on his own at this new Rice Village restaurant that has replaced Bistro des Amis. Scott has redesigned the space to open up some additional seating and added a bar for his regulars from Arturo's and Arcodoro to gather over a glass of wine and linger over SportsCenter. Sud Italia's menu focuses on seafood dishes from regions like Sicily, Bascillica and Calabria, with a highlight being a whole Branzino that's fileted tableside. Don't miss the bruschetta, which benefits from a savory layer of cannellini bean puree. The biggest problem is a lack of parking during the day; you'll have to find a spot on the street during lunch.

    Eculent
    Admittedly, the idea of a tasting menu restaurant across from T-Bone Tom's in Kemah sounds a little ridiculous, but a friend and I thoroughly enjoyed our visit to Eculent. While the notion of a restaurant with a dedicated "food lab" conjures images of foams and weird gels, chef David Skinner's cuisine is pleasantly straightforward and ingredient-driven. The meal starts with a tour of the food lab where Skinner demonstrates how he uses tools like a dehydrator and centrifuge to preserve and enhance flavors. If the courses mostly deal in familiar flavors, the room has a theatrical element with lights, sounds and smells that change during the meal. Price is a drawback: at $110 for the "1845" menu and $135 for the "coast to coast," Eculent exceeds similar experiences at Oxheart and The Pass. Still, adventurous diners are advised to make the drive and discover the unexpected.

    Bollo Woodfired Pizza
    The former Sorrel Urban Bistro has been reborn as Bollo Woodfired Pizza. For owner Ray Salti, the new concept is a high-end evolution of his successful local chain Pepperoni's, but it also blends Sorrel's ethos by using organic and non-GMO ingredients. A basic margherita pie had a good level of char and a clean, fresh taste that wouldn't be out of place at Pizaro's, but they are definitely personal-sized. In addition to pizzas, Bollo features a succinct list of pastas and snacks, like fried calamari, meatballs and lobster ravioli.

    Harwood Grill
    River Oaks gets a casual steakhouse in the former home of 60 Degrees Mastercrafted. The space has been given a makeover with new paint and the addition of an outdoor bar. Like 60 Degrees, Harwood Grill serves a menu that focuses on locally-raised akaushi beef, but the two restaurants differ in their approach. Whereas 60 Degrees cut steaks to order and sold them by the ounce, Harwood serves fixed portions at a lower price point. Pappadelle pasta topped with braised short rib and chicken fried akaushi steak offers slightly less traditional ways to sample the high quality beef. Diners can even take steaks home to-go.

    The Burger Joint
    Get a preview of the restaurant that will open next month in the former home of Little Big's by sampling the wares of its companion food truck. Chef Matthew Pak has already established a good reputation based on his work creating the food for popular trucks Koagie Hots and the Golden Grill, and this burger concept will only enhance his reputation as a chef to watch. At its core, The Burger Joint is built around a thin patty made from 44 Farms beef. The result is a flavorful, juicy burger that works well with both simple toppings and more ambitious combinations like a Mexican version topped with ham, queso fresco, jalapenos and avocado. One perk of the thin patty is that it leaves room for bacon-topped fries. Wouldn't want that burger to feel too virtuous, right?

    Levure Bakery & Patisserie
    Diners in The Woodlands are rejoicing over this latest addition that brings authentic French pastries, breads and breakfast items to the Creekside shopping center. If the croissants aren't as sky-high and airy as Common Bond, they're still comfortably the best version within 20 miles of its location that I've encountered. Although my visit only allowed time for pastries, friends in the area assure me that egg dishes are well-executed, and that the cafe is already becoming a brunch destination. Just be aware that it does have one thing in Common Bond — the demand has been strong enough that sell outs happen early.

    Bovine & Barley
    After two visits, I'm still not entirely sure what to make of Main Street's most recent arrival. On the one hand, my first taste of the signature Bovine burger, a beefy half-pounder topped with bacon and cheddar, is one of the better burgers I've had in a while: nicely griddled bun, medium rare and dripping with juices. On the other, for a place with over 40 taps, Bovine & Barley doesn't do enough to feature its beer selection. The choices are only listed on two screens that hang over the dining room and prices aren't displayed, which led to a little sticker shock at a $8 pint of Yellow Rose. Still, the room looks great and a busy happy hour crowd indicates the downtown crowd likes it.

    Benjy's Rice Village
    The popular restaurant isn't new, but it has two new chefs in the kitchen, Geoff Hunt and Spencer Serette, who have replaced Benjy's lunch menu with brunch every day. That's right — no more waiting until the weekend for the sublime joy of eating French toast and sipping a mimosa in the afternoon. Highlights include smoked salmon toast that ups the standard for avocado toast with a little protein and pork enchiladas in chayote-sour cream sauce.

    Ula's Mexican Restaurant
    The Fort Bend County Tex-Mex restaurant joins a crowded field on Washington Ave, where it will have to hold its own against Lupe Tortilla, Cyclone Anaya's, Molina's and El Tiempo. If it's going to survive in Coppa's former home, Ula's will need to step things up a bit. While the prices are a little cheaper and the service is friendly, the food was a decidedly mixed bag. Individually prepared nachos are a solid take on the classic snack, but the carne asada that appeared in two separate dishes were mushy and overcooked. The gigantic Texas burrito was fun in a college food sort of way, but the mishmashed flavors are hard to enjoy.

    Looking for more suggestions? Try our picks from April, March, February and January.

    Bovine & Barley's signature burger is this bacon and cheddar half-ounder.

    Bovine and Barley burger
      
    Photo by Eric Sandler
    Bovine & Barley's signature burger is this bacon and cheddar half-ounder.
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    and the winner is...

    Innovative Houston chef is the city's newest James Beard Award winner

    Eric Sandler
    Jun 17, 2025 | 6:00 am
    James Beard Awards 2025 Thomas Bille Belly of the Beast
    Photo by Getty Images for James Beard Foundation
    Thomas Bille is Houston's newest James Beard Award winner.

    Add another Houston chef to the city’s growing list of James Beard Award winners. Thomas Bille, chef-owner of Belly of the Beast in Spring, earned Best Chef: Texas at the James Beard Foundation’s Restaurant and Chef Awards ceremony.

    Held at the Lyric Opera of Chicago on Monday, June 16, Bille was one of five finalists for the award, along with fellow Houstonian Emmanuel Chavez (Tatemo), Emil Oliva (Leche de Tigre in San Antonio), Regino Rojas (Purépecha in Dallas), and Michael Anthony Serva, (Bordo in Marfa). Neither of Houston’s other finalists — Mexico City-inspired cafe Casaema (formerly known as Ema) for Best New Restaurant and fine dining tasting menu restaurant March for Outstanding Wine and Other Beverages Program — earned awards in their categories.

    A Los Angeles native who moved to the Houston area to be closer to his wife’s family, Bille took a winding path to his James Beard Award. He opened the first iteration of Belly of the Beast in 2020 as a chef-driven taqueria that was known for its ceviches and birria tacos. He then spent about a year at Chivos, an ambitious but short-lived Mexican-American restaurant in the Heights.

    In late 2023, he and his wife Elizabeth opened a new version of Belly of the Beast in a Spring shopping center. It showcased a broader array of Bille’s skills, with a wide-ranging menu that pulled from global flavors — lamb shank rendang, anyone? — that included meat, seafood, and pastas. The new restaurant quickly earned wide acclaim, including a Bib Gourmand in the 2024 Michelin Guide and CultureMap Tastemaker Award nominations for both Restaurant of the Year and Chef of the Year.

    “I feel a depth of gratitude,” Bille tells CultureMap in a text message. “Knowing that my wife and I were able to reopen on our own terms. Gratitude for my family, staff, and guests to give us love and support. It is much appreciated.”

    In an interview from the ceremony shared by the James Beard Foundation, Bille paid tribute to his wife, Elizabeth, for her role in the restaurant’s success.

    “The risk that my wife and I took to open this restaurant is more than worth it. My wife left her industry, she was a national director for nonprofit organization,” he said. “I said, ‘We’re going to reopen Belly of the Beast. I need you with me side-by-side the whole time.’ The first iteration she held down her job and supported us. With her at my wide, I’m able to focus on the kitchen, on the food, and mentoring my cooks. Able to see the bigger picture instead of just being in the weeds all the time.”

    Bille is the second Houstonian to win Best Chef: Texas, joining Street to Kitchen chef-owner Benchawan Jabthong Painter, who won in 2023. Since the category of Best Chef: Texas has only been awarded since 2022, Bille is the first man to earn the title. Prior to being its own region, the James Beard Foundation included Texas in the Southwest, where chefs Robert Del Grande (Cafe Annie), Chris Shepherd (Underbelly), Justin Yu (Oxheart), and Hugo Ortega (Hugo’s) all won awards.

    The only other Texas finalist to win his category was Arjav Ezekiel of Birdie's in Austin, who became the first winner of Outstanding Professional in Beverage Service, one of three beverage-oriented categories the foundation added for 2025.

    In addition to Bille and Ezekiel, Texam Chad Houser, founder of Cafe Momentum in Dallas, received the Humanitarian of the Year Award. Toni Tipton-Martin, a Houston-based author, scholar, and journalist, received the Lifetime Achievement Award. Houstonian Alba Huerta, who won Outstanding Beverage Program for her bar Julep in 2022, presented one of the night’s awards.

    “It’s with deep celebration that we congratulate the 2025 Restaurant and Chef Award winners — distinguished culinary, beverage, and hospitality leaders whose talent and vision are shaping our dining landscape,” said Clare Reichenbach, CEO, James Beard Foundation, in a statement. “These outstanding professionals are the epitome of ‘Good Food for Good,’ elevating our industry’s standards and redefining what’s possible in American cuisine.”

    James Beard Awards 2025 Thomas Bille Belly of the Beast
      

    Photo by Getty Images for James Beard Foundation

    Thomas Bille is Houston's newest James Beard Award winner.

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