Staph Steps Up

Talented chef from Chris Shepherd's crew joins iconic Midtown restaurant

Matt Staph is the new chef at Brennan's.

Photo by Kimberly Park

One of Houston's iconic restaurants has a new chef. Brennan's of Houston announced that it has hired Matt Staph as executive chef.

Staph comes to Brennan's from Underbelly Hospitality's restaurant One Fifth; he opened the restaurant under the direction of chef Nick Fine and served as chef de cuisine for four of its five iterations. He replaces Joey Chavez, who came to Brennan's in the summer of 2020.

Brennan's of Houston has served elevated Creole fare in Midtown since 1967. Proprietor Alex Brennan-Martin and his family also own legendary New Orleans restaurant Commander's Palace.

“One Fifth has been my home for the past five years and it’s what really made me feel welcome here in Houston," Staph said in a statement. "I am truly thankful to Chris and to my experience at One Fifth for opening my eyes to what an extraordinary city Houston is,” says Staph. “We’ve done some really amazing things at One Fifth and now it’s my time, in a way, to follow Chris’ lead at Brennan’s and make it better than it’s ever been."

As Staph notes, leaving Chris Shepherd's Underbelly Hospitality for Brennan's deepens the ties between the two restaurant groups. Shepherd spent nine years as both a cook/sous chef and sommelier at the legendary Creole restaurant — setting him on the path that ultimately led to a James Beard Award win for his work at Underbelly.

"Matt Staph has been driving the boat at One Fifth all along and steering it beautifully,” Shepherd said. "It’s not time for him to stop learning, though. His biggest challenge is right in front of him now. I cannot express how happy I am for this move. Brennan’s is a place that has a very special place in my heart, and I look forward to see what he does there.”

Staph is Brennan's third executive chef in the last 12 months. Joe Cervantez left last summer after three years to open Pier 6 Seafood & Oyster House in San Leon. In an Instagram post, Chavez said he's taken a job as a private chef that will allow him to spend more time with his family.

As for One Fifth, it will close in August after a five year run. Chef Nick Fine will return to the kitchen where he will serve dishes from all of One Fifth's prior iterations as well as preview items from two of Underbelly Hospitality's upcoming concepts: Wild Oats, the restaurant Fine is opening this summer at the Houston Farmers Market, and Georgia James Tavern, Underbelly Hospitality's casual restaurant that's opening in downtown's luxurious Market Square Tower.

“One Fifth isn’t going quietly into the night,” Fine said. “We want to go out having as much fun and learning as much as possible with the remaining time we have left.”

chefs

inspired by Houston's

Houston steakhouse reboots as a more affordable neighborhood restaurant

Michael Sambrooks is ready to unveil the refreshed Andiron. Beginning this Monday, November 25, the fine dining steakhouse will begin operating as the more affordable Andiron Grille & Patio.

“We looked at more neighborhood restaurants [like] Nancy’s Hustle and Nobie’s,” Sambrooks tells CultureMap. “We wanted to fall into that neighborhood restaurant category instead of fine dining and steakhouses. With the patio opening, we wanted to turn it into an eating and drinking place that’s more casual. Seemed like the vibe that would work for the neighborhood.”

To get that everyday appeal, Sambrooks and chef Michael O’Connor worked to decrease the restaurant’s prices by removing luxurious items such as caviar and truffles. Andiron still serves imported Japanese wagyu, but now it’s the chuck instead of strip or ribeye. Overall, diners can expect to spend about $100 per person, which is down from the $150 per person or more of Andiron’s original iteration.

Similar to a restaurant like Hillstone (formerly Houston’s), diners will find steaks at Andiron, but they have other options, too. The restaurant’s prime rib sandwich and decadent wagyu burger both appear on the new menu. They’re joined by a roasted half chicken, pork steak, and Gulf fish with Thai curry.

“People seem to really enjoy [the new menu],” Sambrooks says. “A lot of our neighborhood folks and regulars have come in. They appreciate the value-driven options. A lot of people say they can come more often.”

Another reason they’ll come more often is to enjoy the restaurant’s new patio. Part of the 2,800-square-foot space features lounge-style seating designed for people who want to devote most of their attention to bartender Angel Bautista’s refreshed cocktail offerings. Inspired by his time working at Mexico City’s Handshake Speakeasy — ranked No. 1 in the world by the World’s 50 Best organization — the menu includes a selection of carbonated cocktails that are both refreshing and able to be served quickly.

“We’ve got 75 seats. Some of those are for dining, some are for lounging and cocktailing. About 20 seats are love seats for lounging with a place to put your drink,” Sambrooks says.

“We’re pitching it as a cocktail garden. We want people to walk in, get a seat on the patio, order a couple of cocktails, order a snack or don’t. Just a really great additional space to sit and have a drink.”

The wine list is cheaper, too. Inspired by his time working for restaurateur Bill Floyd at Reef, Sambrooks is selling wine at a much lower markup than before. “We get a deal, we pass that along, even if it’s something we can only get one time,” he says.

Photo by Michael Anthony

Find a steak frites on the new menu at Andiron.

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