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    8 things to know

    8 things to know about Houston food right now: openings, closings, and a major chef change

    Eric Sandler
    Apr 23, 2018 | 9:02 am

    A major chef change tops this week’s news. Montrose restaurant Aqui and chef de cuisine Gabriel Medina have parted ways, CultureMap has learned.

    General manager Steven Lo confirmed Medina’s departure but politely declined to comment on the circumstances. Medina has yet to respond to CultureMap’s request for comment about the situation or what his future plans might be.

    Chef-owner Paul Qui, who is still awaiting trial on charges for domestic assault stemming from an incident in March 2016, and former Kuneho chef de cuisine Mia Li are spending more time at the restaurant in the wake of Medina’s departure, according to Lo. Sous chef Niki Vongthong and CultureMap Tastemaker Awards Pastry Chef of the Year winner Jill Bartolome are still with the restaurant.

    Medina, who came to Aqui after successful stints at Kata Robata, Soma Sushi, and acclaimed Tokyo restaurant Narisawa (among others), helped lead Aqui to widespread acclaim, including a four-star review from Chronicle critic Alison Cook and a nomination for Medina as one of the CultureMap Tastemaker Awards Rising Star Chefs of the Year. The New York Times reported that Aqui would have been nominated for the country’s Best New Restaurant by the James Beard Awards if not for Qui’s assault charges.

    MidiCi, the California-based Neapolitan pizza chain, has closed its Greenway Plaza/Upper Kirby location at 2925 Richmond Ave. after less than a year in business. Although the space still has its equipment and furniture, the restaurant has been removed from the company's website and its Facebook page has disappeared. Locations in Katy and Pearland remain open.

    Che Inka, a Peruvian and Argentinian restaurant in Rice Military, recently closed. Despite generally positive reviews, a "For Lease" sign now hangs above the space at 5535 Memorial Dr. Argentina Cafe, the restaurant's sister concept in the Galleria area, remains open.

    River Oaks residents with a taste for General Tso's chicken take note: Cafe Ginger has moved to its new home at 1574 W. Gray. The popular Chinese restaurant moved approximately half a mile to make way for The Driscoll at River Oaks, Weingarten Realty's 30-story residential tower that will be built on the site. Cafe Ginger will be BYOB at its new location until it receives its liquor license.

    Houston's second Velvet Taco opened quietly last month at 907 Westheimer Rd. The Dallas-based restaurant is known for its creative tacos, loaded tater tots, and rotisserie meats. With a two-story space, late night hours (open until 4 am on Friday and Saturday), and casual atmosphere, it's a welcome addition to the neighborhood.

    Memorial-area favorite Leibman’s Eatery, Market, and Gifts (formerly Leibman's Wine & Fine Foods) has reopened in its new location at 10100 Katy Freeway. Although smaller than the Memorial Drive store it replaces, the new Leibman’s still features the same wine, gifts, and deli that has made it a neighborhood staple for almost 40 years.

    Owner Sharon Leibman, the daughter of founders Ettiene and Ralph Leibman, has expanded the deli’s selection and seating area to allow for dining during breakfast, lunch, and dinner. While some items are new, signature dishes like the chicken salad Afrique and Gone In a Minute dip are still available and made with their classic recipes.

    Popular Italian restaurant Grazia Italian Kitchen has opened its third Houston-area location in Katy at 22764 Westheimer Pkwy., the restaurant announced on Facebook. Currently open for dinner only, lunch and brunch services will begin in May. Expect the same pizzas, pastas, steaks, and seafood items that have made the restaurant successful at both its Pearland and Clear Lake locations — including the award-winning smoked short ribs and risotto.

    Creamistry, a California-based chain that serves ice cream made with liquid nitrogen, will open its third Houston-area location in Friendswood at 211 W. Eldorado Blvd., Ste. D. The new location will join outposts near the Galleria and in the Memorial area when it opens in May.

    Leibman's CAB salad is available again.

    Leibmans House CAB salad
    Photo by Debora Smail
    Leibman's CAB salad is available again.
    openingsnews-you-can-eatchefs
    news/restaurants-bars

    firing up Montrose

    New Houston seafood restaurant adds live-fire flair to Japanese flavors

    Eric Sandler
    Dec 3, 2025 | 10:02 am
    Casa Kenji restaurant
    Photo by Becca Wright
    Spanish sea bass, scallop crudo, nigiri, bluefin binchotan, and bluefin crudo.

    An ambitious new seafood restaurant is coming to Montrose next week. Casa Kenji will open on Tuesday, December 9.

    Located in the former Andiron space (3201 Allen Pkwy), Casa Kenji is the first Houston project for New Orleans restaurateur Malachi DuPre, a former LSU standout who played briefly in the NFL before establishing Kenji and Kenji Kazoku restaurants in New Orleans. Together with former LSU teammate John “B-John” Ballis and Houston chef Bigler “Biggie” Cruz, Casa Kenji will blend Latin and Japanese influences while also incorporating live-fire elements into the restaurant’s dishes. Cruz, whose resume includes a lengthy stint at Uchi as well as working at critically acclaimed Houston seafood restaurant Golfstrømmen, tells CultureMap that Casa Kenji’s approach is the first time he can be himself in the kitchen.

    “My perfect restaurant was always based on the live fire and sushi combination,” Cruz says. “My mom cooked with wood for my entire life. The live fire creates completely different flavors. The smoky flavors, the sear from the charcoal — they create a different type of memory for me.”

    The use of live fire techniques will permeate Casa Kenji’s menus in ways both big and small. For example, diners will be able to feast on prawns grilled directly on charcoal and served with yuzu chili garlic, or savor lightly seared Japanese wagyu tataki paired with mushrooms. Even raw dishes will benefit from the restaurant’s wood-burning grill and stove.

    “Every vegetable we peel, we make into an ash that’s a topping for the dishes. It adds a different layer of flavor,” Cruz says. Look for it in the scallop aguachile, among others.

    Even vegetables get a smoky component, as in a cabbage dish that’s braised with dashi and soy sauce before being roasted and served with an onion soubise that Cruz says he developed based on techniques he learned from Golfstrømmen chef Christopher Haatuft.

    “It’s rich, super savory, with smoky layers, and you get brightness from the shiso gremolata. I think it will be a signature dish for us,” the chef says.

    One change to the interior is the addition of a six-seat omakase counter that looks into the kitchen. Cruz promises those diners will have an even more elevated experience than the restaurant’s regular menu, including ingredients such as Japanese wagyu and premium fish flown in from Tokyo’s Toyosu fish market.

    Beyond its cuisine, Casa Kenji hopes to stand out with its spacious outdoor patio. Since very few Japanese-inspired restaurants in Houston offer outdoor seating, it should appeal to diners who want a little vitamin D along with their tuna crudo.

    “We’re proud to showcase the craft and creativity that defines Casa Kenji,” co-founders Cruz, Ballis, and DuPre said in a statement. “With chef Bigler Cruz at the helm — blending live-fire technique with the discipline of Japanese tradition — we’re equally honored and excited to share a unique concept that is truly rooted in passion, culture, and community.”

    Casa Kenji will be open for dinner Tuesday through Sunday beginning at 4 pm. Reservations are available on Resy.

    Casa Kenji restaurant

    Photo by Becca Wright

    Spanish sea bass, scallop crudo, nigiri, bluefin binchotan, and bluefin crudo.

    news/restaurants-bars
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