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    Food for Thought

    Eating my bourbon: A diet any Mad Men could appreciate

    Marene Gustin
    Apr 20, 2010 | 6:21 am
    • A key ingredient
      Photo by Ralph Smith
    • Mark Cox's Five Spice-infused, Bourbon-Braised Barbecue Pork Shortrib Sandwich
      Photo by Ralph Smith
    • Rebecca Masson's Maple Leaf Ice Cream Sandwich
      Photo by Ralph Smith
    • David Grossman's Bourbon "Bacon & Eggs"
      Photo by Ralph Smith
    • Maker's 46
      Photo by Kimberly Park

    I’m pretty sure the first alcoholic drink I ever had was a sip of Dad’s beer when I was a kid. But it was Dad’s other drink, bourbon, that has become my go-to drink. Sure, I like wine, particularly the sparkling kind, and I’ve flirted with vodka but it’s bourbon I always come back to: Bourbon and sparkling water, bourbon and iced tea, bourbon and bourbon.

    But now I know that I like to eat it as well as drink it.

    Bourbon is as American as apple pie, and you could probably put a little bourbon in that pie recipe. It’s liquor only made in America and, by law, has to be 51 percent corn. That’s right, there are bourbon laws, and you don’t want to go running afoul of the law.

    While there’s always a bottle of bourbon in my cupboard, the only time I’ve ever really used it in cooking is to rub a little over some steaks before grilling. Bourbon has a faint flavor of caramel, vanilla, charcoal, and a very light taste of wood, that adds to most meats.

    And, apparently, to a lot of other dishes.


    “My mom was a bourbon drinker, so by extension I am, too,” chef Monica Pope told me at last week’s Houston Chowhounds bourbon throwdown at Branch Water Tavern. Pope, a contestant this season on Top Chef Masters, threw down with some pulled pork made with Maker’s Mark, the bourbon sponsor of the competition.

    In fact, most of the chefs used the alcohol to flavor pork and short ribs — like chef Mark Cox — although Pesce’s Mark Holley tried it on scallops and Rebecca Masson even mixed it with ice cream.

    And then Branch Water’s chef/partner David Grossman just went nuts with the bourbon.

    “I was inspired by molecular gastronomy,” Grossman said. “And using all natural products.”

    Like some kind of mad food scientist, Grossman carefully extracted the inside of a yoke with a syringe then replaced it with a reduction of Maker’s Mark and chicken stock. Atop this spoonful of taste was a crumble of bourbon infused bacon. Of course, this boozy dish won the competition, but don’t look for it to be on the regular menu. Grossman says it’s too labor intensive and too many chick embryos had to be tossed, collapsing during the extraction process.

    “I do cook some with bourbon,” he said. “Maybe not as much as I should. I have a sweet spot for bourbon and our food stands up to the big flavor of bourbon. But personally, I’d rather just drink it.”

    A comment echoed by Marker’s Mark’s president, Bill Samuels Jr., who was in town a few days later to introduce the new Maker’s 46, a really smooth sippin’ liquor.

    “It took me 20 years to just figure out how to make a Manhattan,” Samuels lamented. “So I no, I don’t cook. My wife, Nancy, does use some in pulled pork and barbecue, but mostly we just drink it.”

    And while I’ll drink to that (and I usually do) there are a few really good uses for bourbon, from bourbon balls to Mississippi mud cake and, of course, a really good barbecue sauce or a tasty steak rub. Pretty much any recipe that uses brandy can also be revamped to use bourbon. And best of all, the amount of bourbon you’ll use in cooking is pretty small, leaving plenty for cocktails while you cook.

    It’s just like cooking with wine, one shot for the pot, two in the glass. Trust me, dinner will turn out just fine.

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    HIGH STEAKS COMPETITION

    2 Houston-born steakhouses named among top fine dining restaurants in U.S.

    Brandon Watson
    Sep 21, 2026 | 1:00 pm
    Brenner's on the River Walk
    Brenner's on the River Walk/Facebook
    Brenner's on the River Walk is the only Texas restaurant to win a Traveler's Choice Award.

    For all of the diversity in Houston’s dining scene, the city’s steakhouses remain one of its culinary strengths. So much so that two concepts that are Bayou City born rank among the country’s best fine dining restaurants, according to the 2026 Tripadvisor Travelers’ Choice Awards.

    Notably, the awards don’t recognize the original, Houston locations of either restaurant. Instead, diners selected the San Antonio location of Brenner’s (No. 8) and the Lake Charles (No. 9) and Las Vegas (No. 19) locations of Vic & Anthony’s Steakhouse. No other Texas restaurant made it to any of the top 10s on the site’s other ranked lists that cover everything from viral sensations to culinary tours.

    The awards are calculated based on both the quality and quantity of reviews and ratings collected by Tripadvisor over over 12 months, July 1, 2025 through June 30, 2026. The review platform also says a mysterious “additional editorial process” contributes to the final rankings. Whether that affects review bombing or not is left unsaid.

    "Food is at the heart of how we experience a destination, and these awards recognize the restaurant and culinary experiences travelers consider among the very best," offered Laurel Greatrix, Chief Communications Officer, Tripadvisor Group, in a release.

    Brenner’s is a relative newcomer to the River Walk, opening in summer 2023, joining its two Houston locations in the Energy Corridor and along Buffalo Bayou near Memorial Park. Like Vic & Anthony’s, it’s part of Landry’s, the hospitality conglomerate owned by Houston billionaire Tilman Fertitta.

    Named for Tilman Fertitta’s father and uncle, Vic & Anthony opened in downtown Houston in 2003. It expanded to Las Vegas in 2006 and Lake Charles in 2014 — both inside Golden Nugget casinos.

    Although Tripadvisor did not provide context in the award announcement, over 350 of the site’s users have rated Brenner’s as “excellent.” Similarly, Vic & Anthony’s in Lake Charles has more than 700 “excellent” reviews, with the bustling Las Vegas location earning more than 1,900 “excellent” reviews.

    All three restaurants enjoy enviable ratings of 4.6 or higher, although Brenner’s dipped slightly from its No. 6 ranking in 2025. Somewhat surprisingly, on a list dominated by steakhouses, the top fine dining restaurant was long-running Italian staple Ristorante Paoletti in Highlands, North Carolina.

    ----

    Eric Sandler contributed to this article.


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