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    Food for Thought

    Eating my bourbon: A diet any Mad Men could appreciate

    Marene Gustin
    Apr 20, 2010 | 6:21 am
    • A key ingredient
      Photo by Ralph Smith
    • Mark Cox's Five Spice-infused, Bourbon-Braised Barbecue Pork Shortrib Sandwich
      Photo by Ralph Smith
    • Rebecca Masson's Maple Leaf Ice Cream Sandwich
      Photo by Ralph Smith
    • David Grossman's Bourbon "Bacon & Eggs"
      Photo by Ralph Smith
    • Maker's 46
      Photo by Kimberly Park

    I’m pretty sure the first alcoholic drink I ever had was a sip of Dad’s beer when I was a kid. But it was Dad’s other drink, bourbon, that has become my go-to drink. Sure, I like wine, particularly the sparkling kind, and I’ve flirted with vodka but it’s bourbon I always come back to: Bourbon and sparkling water, bourbon and iced tea, bourbon and bourbon.

    But now I know that I like to eat it as well as drink it.

    Bourbon is as American as apple pie, and you could probably put a little bourbon in that pie recipe. It’s liquor only made in America and, by law, has to be 51 percent corn. That’s right, there are bourbon laws, and you don’t want to go running afoul of the law.

    While there’s always a bottle of bourbon in my cupboard, the only time I’ve ever really used it in cooking is to rub a little over some steaks before grilling. Bourbon has a faint flavor of caramel, vanilla, charcoal, and a very light taste of wood, that adds to most meats.

    And, apparently, to a lot of other dishes.


    “My mom was a bourbon drinker, so by extension I am, too,” chef Monica Pope told me at last week’s Houston Chowhounds bourbon throwdown at Branch Water Tavern. Pope, a contestant this season on Top Chef Masters, threw down with some pulled pork made with Maker’s Mark, the bourbon sponsor of the competition.

    In fact, most of the chefs used the alcohol to flavor pork and short ribs — like chef Mark Cox — although Pesce’s Mark Holley tried it on scallops and Rebecca Masson even mixed it with ice cream.

    And then Branch Water’s chef/partner David Grossman just went nuts with the bourbon.

    “I was inspired by molecular gastronomy,” Grossman said. “And using all natural products.”

    Like some kind of mad food scientist, Grossman carefully extracted the inside of a yoke with a syringe then replaced it with a reduction of Maker’s Mark and chicken stock. Atop this spoonful of taste was a crumble of bourbon infused bacon. Of course, this boozy dish won the competition, but don’t look for it to be on the regular menu. Grossman says it’s too labor intensive and too many chick embryos had to be tossed, collapsing during the extraction process.

    “I do cook some with bourbon,” he said. “Maybe not as much as I should. I have a sweet spot for bourbon and our food stands up to the big flavor of bourbon. But personally, I’d rather just drink it.”

    A comment echoed by Marker’s Mark’s president, Bill Samuels Jr., who was in town a few days later to introduce the new Maker’s 46, a really smooth sippin’ liquor.

    “It took me 20 years to just figure out how to make a Manhattan,” Samuels lamented. “So I no, I don’t cook. My wife, Nancy, does use some in pulled pork and barbecue, but mostly we just drink it.”

    And while I’ll drink to that (and I usually do) there are a few really good uses for bourbon, from bourbon balls to Mississippi mud cake and, of course, a really good barbecue sauce or a tasty steak rub. Pretty much any recipe that uses brandy can also be revamped to use bourbon. And best of all, the amount of bourbon you’ll use in cooking is pretty small, leaving plenty for cocktails while you cook.

    It’s just like cooking with wine, one shot for the pot, two in the glass. Trust me, dinner will turn out just fine.

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    another surprise shutter

    Coastal-inspired Houston restaurant will shutter after 3 years in Montrose

    Eric Sandler
    Dec 29, 2025 | 10:07 am
    Graffiti Raw
    Photo by Kirsten Gilliam
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    A Montrose restaurant devoted to fresh and healthy fare will soon serve its final meal. Graffiti Raw will close on December 31.

    Located next to Uchi in the Montrose Collective mixed-use development, Graffiti Raw opened in early 2023. It is part of the Big Vibe Group, the hospitality company behind Coppa Osteria in Rice Village and Flora, the stylish Mexican restaurant in Buffalo Bayou Park.

    Graffiti Raw took inspiration from coastal destinations such as Big Sur, Mexico, and the Mediterranean. True to its name, the menu included raw items such as tartare and ceviche alongside classic fare such as steak frites, chicken schnitzel, and crab fried rice.

    “Since opening, Graffiti Raw has been a place for connection — from shared meals to vibrant

    nights that reflected the creative energy of Houston. The Big Vibe Group is grateful to the

    guests, team members, partners and the Montrose Collective community who helped shape the experience,” the company said in a statement.

    Big Vibe emphasizes that both Coppa Osteria and Flora “remain central to the company’s long-term vision, with an emphasis on growth, consistency, and elevated hospitality.” It made a similar commitment to those concepts when it closed Gratify, a neighborhood bistro in Rice Village, back in 2024.

    Montrose has seen a number of openings and closings, with additions such as jazz supperclub Doc’s and wine shop/bar Montrose Grocer. Paulie’s, a neighborhood staple for more than 25 years, will also close on December 31.

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