What's Eric Eating Episode 189

Houston's dynamic duo of French baking, plus dishing on James Harden's restaurant

On this week's episode of "What's Eric Eating," chefs Otto Sanchez and Matthieu Cabon join CultureMap food editor Eric Sandler to discuss Magnol French Baking. Founded in 2019, Magnol recently expanded its retail offerings by adding a patio and hiring a full-time barista to give customers more of a cafe experience.

As Sanchez explains, he and Cabon originally planned to start slowly by selling breads wholesale for a year before adding viennoiserie (croissants and other laminated doughs) and eventually pastries. Simply put, the bakery's location on North Post Oak near the Awty International School put it in close proximity to a diverse group of parents who didn't want to wait for Magnol to expand its menu. Sanchez recalls the conversation going something like:

"From day two, people started knocking on the door and saying, 'I want to buy a baguette.' Well, we have some. 'Do you have croissants?' We don't make those. 'Well, you should,'" Sanchez says. "It went downhill from there . . . Then, a lot of people I worked with at La Table would say, 'chef Otto opened a bakery. You should go see him' . . . It's a very organic thing to happen. Most of it has happened from word-of-mouth."

The conversation covers a range of other topics, including how the two chefs met while working in Vegas, the importance of using organic flour and hand-shaping breads to their process, and their future plans to grow Magnol to multiple locations.

Prior to the interview, Sandler and co-host Felice Sloan discuss the news of the week. Their topics include: Blood Bros. BBQ teaming up with pastry chef Alyssa Dole to open a new sandwich shop in Garden Oaks; chef Brandi Key joining Dish Society's parent company; and the opening of Acme Oyster Co. in Montrose.

In the restaurants of the week segment, the duo discuss their recent meals at Littlefoot, the French-inspired pop-up currently taking place at Theodore Rex, and Thirteen, the Midtown restaurant owned by former Rocket James Harden. While they rave about the elegant tasting menu served at Littlefoot, they found some issues at Thirteen — including an early contender for worst dish of 2021. Listen to the full episode to hear what it is.

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Otto and Krissy Sanchez, Matthieu Cabon

Magnol French Baking Otto Sanchez Krissy Sanchez Matthieu Cabon

Photo by Carla Gomez

Otto and Krissy Sanchez, Matthieu Cabon

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sudden chef shocker

Surprise chef resignation shutters The Woodlands' best restaurant

Courtesy of Austin Simmons/Tris

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The best restaurant in The Woodlands has served its last meal. Tris is closed effective immediately, the restaurant announced.

A statement posted to the restaurant’s website reads in part:

With a heavy heart, Tris, the acclaimed culinary destination in The Woodlands, announces its permanent closure following the resignation of executive chef Austin Simmons. After more than a decade of delivering exceptional dining experiences and forging deep connections with the community, Tris will close its doors effective immediately.

The Tris team extends its heartfelt gratitude for the community’s unwavering support and patronage.

Haydar Kustu, director of business development and marketing for Tris owners Black Forest Ventures tells CultureMap that Simmons tendered his resignation on December 31. The ownership decided it could not operate the restaurant without him.

“It took us by surprise,” Kustu tells CultureMap about Simmons’ resignation. “He said he wants to spend more time with his family and his fiancee. He didn’t give any indication of what he wants to do next.”

The restaurant’s staff is being offered positions at the company’s other concepts, The Kitchen in The Woodlands and the six Houston-area locations of Black Walnut Cafe. A recently-opened location of The Kitchen at George Bush Intercontinental Airport will also remain open.

Tris opened in 2018 as a replacement for Hubbell & Hudson Bistro. In an acknowledgment of Simmons’ key role in the concept, it is named for his eldest daughter. Tris quickly earned wide acclaim for signature dishes such as the Korean butter poached crab, lobster toast, and truffle grilled cheese.

Simmons also developed a deep interest in beef production, partnering with Texas rancher Larry Ludeke to develop the Gyulais wagyu beef program. That focus on sourcing earned the attention of podcast superstar Joe Rogan, who called his 2023 dinner at Tris “one of the best meals I’ve ever had in my life.”

As of now, Black Forest Ventures does not have any plans to replace Tris with another concept. They're looking for someone else to operate a new concept in the prime location in The Woodlands Waterway. “We will welcome any interest in new restaurant opportunities,” Kustu says.

CultureMap has contacted Simmons to learn more about his decision to resign and his future plans. We will update this article when he responds.