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    What's Eric Eating Episode 138

    The best wines to pick up in Houston, plus a fabulous French meal to-go

    CultureMap Staff
    Apr 2, 2020 | 12:30 pm
    Antonio Gianola Houston Wine Merchant
    Antonio Gianola.
    Photo by Carla Gomez

    On this week's episode of "What's Eric Eating," sommelier Antonio Gianola joins CultureMap food editor Eric Sandler to discuss his career working in Houston and his current role as general manager of Houston Wine Merchant. With experience at Houston restaurants such as Da Marco and Catalan, Gianola oversees the store's day-to-day operations and makes buying decisions for French, Italian, German, and Austrian wines.

    In response to social distancing requirements, Houston Wine Merchant has closed its store to customers, but they can order over the phone or online for curbside pickup. Sandler asks about what people are buying during a time they're required to stay home.

    "Before the pandemic, I would say people were regularly in the $30-70 range was the sweet spot of what people were looking for. Now, I think people are looking for wines they don't have to cellar, and they're drinking them all, most in the $20-35 range tends to be the biggest movers right now. . . Instead of buying a bottle or two, people are buying half a case or a case."

    Listen to the full interview to hear Giancola recall working with chefs Marco Wiles and Chris Shepherd. He also offers a few buying suggestions for people looking to pick up something tasty from Houston Wine Merchant.

    Prior to the interview, Rebecca Masson joins Sandler to discuss the news of the week. The pastry chef starts off by talking about the process of reopening Fluff Bake Bar in its new home near The Heights and then fires back at people who leave negative Yelp reviews during a challenging time for restaurants.

    Special guest Adam Brackman joins the show to discuss the Payroll Protection Plan, a provision of the recently passed CARES Act that provides restaurants and other small businesses with the opportunity to apply for forgivable loans equal to two times their monthly payroll. Brackman says he plans to apply for a loan to support Axelrad, his ultra-popular bar in Midtown.

    In the restaurants of the week segment, Sandler and Masson share some of the places they've ordered takeout from. Masson's choices include Pizaro's Pizza and Chow Wok, a Chinese restaurant in west Houston. Sandler raves about a recent meal from Galleria-area French restaurant Étoile.

    ---

    Subscribe to "What's Eric Eating" on Apple podcasts, Google Play, or Spotify. Listen to it Sunday at 1 pm on ESPN 97.5.

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    Coming soon to Fredericksburg

    Houston restaurant vet serves up Roman-style eatery in the Hill Country

    Brandon Watson
    Dec 26, 2025 | 3:30 pm
    Bottega Salaria Fredericksburg
    Photo courtesy of Bottega Salaria
    Valerio Lombardozzi is opening Bottega Salaria in the former home of La Bergerie.

    Valerio Lombardozzi’s culinary career has taken him to the world’s finest kitchens, including restaurants owned by icons like Alain Ducasse, Giorgio Locatelli, and Joël Robuchon. In Houston, he led La Table and Tavola, where he earned a reputation for being one of the city's most engaging front of the house personalities.

    But his latest project might be his biggest accomplishment yet. The hospitality veteran is opening Bottega Salaria, a homey Italian osteria and artisan market, in the former home of La Bergerie at 312 E Austin St in his adopted home of Fredericksburg.

    Lombardozzi says the restaurant, expected to arrive in winter 2026, fills a gap in the Hill Country dining scene, but, more importantly, it's a reflection of his personal history and time spent working at his family’s restaurant in Rome.

    “[It’s about] where I grew up, how I grew up, and how I eat,” he shares.

    The three-concept experience is inspired by Italy’s Via Salaria, the ancient route Italians used to transport salt from the Adriatic Sea to Rome. The menu acts as a sort of travelogue, borrowing from the different cultures along the road, and the way village fishermen and shepherds ate.

    Lombardozzi is quick to say he didn’t want to open a chef-driven restaurant. Instead, the osteria will serve traditional Roman staples such as cacio e pepe, amatriciana, carbonara, saltimbocca with sage and prosciutto, and branzino carved tableside.

    “I was one of the last to be exposed to the old generation of professionals who knew how to carve elegantly for the guests,” he says.

    The adjacent bottega will stay open during restaurant hours, offering fresh pasta made on-site, house-made sauces, imported Italian pantry items, cheeses, salumi, breads, and biscotti. Patrons will be able to shop for individual items or put together custom gift baskets.

    Outdoors, La Fraschetteria will debut a new hospitality experience in the U.S. The self-guided experience invites diners to grab wine directly from garden shelves, gather a spread of meats, cheeses, bread, or pasta, and linger around long communal tables lit by string lights.

    Keeping the chit-chat going will be a thoughtful beverage program anchored by a primarily Italian wine list and imported beer. Lombardozzi says the cocktail menu might be a surprise, offering only gin and tonics, spritzes, and negronis. The latter has been made into a game where diners roll dice to determine the evening's combination of gin, vermouth, and bitters.

    After dinner, guests can select an amaro from a rolling cart, sip grappa and limoncello, or sip a neat whiskey.

    Lombardozzi shares that he wants Bottega Salaria to be just as comfortable for Fredericksburg locals as it is for destination travelers. Beyond daily service, Bottega Salaria plans community events such as garden wine nights with live music, Sunday movie nights, and hands-on cooking classes.

    The space is designed for ease with a warm palette combining olive green and pomegranate reds. The decor blends heritage and modernity, bringing in objects like antique mirrors, plates, custom-made lamps, and even old tablecloths and curtains for an Old World feel.

    "We’re not just opening a restaurant,” Lombardozzi says. “We’re creating a gathering place. A home for everyone who loves Italian food, culture, and the joy of sharing a meal with others.”

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