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    Food for Thought

    Breakfast becomes Houston's hottest meal, testing a foodie's cholesterol

    Marene Gustin
    Mar 24, 2011 | 5:14 am
    • You'll find several new breakfast sandwiches at Cafe Express.
    • Where are my buttermilk biscuits with cream gravy?
    • I’m lusting after Ouisie's famous cheese grits.
    • My favorite addition at Cafe Express: The Breakfast BLT, with butter-toastedbrioche, crisp bacon, lettuce, roma tomatoes, mayo, scrambled eggs and cheddarcheese.
    • Just when you thought you could actually start liking turkey bacon, thelong-awaited Revival Market opens in the Heights offering a plethora of piggyproducts.
      Photo by Marene Gustin

    So I’m sitting there the other morning with my breakfast consisting of a glass of soy milk, two-percent-fat Greek yogurt and a handful of almonds.

    How did it come to this? Where are my buttermilk biscuits with cream gravy?

    Oh, right. They fled the scene when my doctor said “Your cholesterol is a little high.”

    Not words a food writer really wants to hear.

    So now I start the day with the breakfast of choice of skinny, healthy people. And it’s a real cryin’ shame, too. Because right now the breakfast choices in this city just exploded.

    For instance, take the new morning menu items Cafe Express executive chef Greg Martin just rolled out. There’s a huge South of the Border platter of scrambled eggs, creamy queso (queso for breakfast, they’re killing me here) with cilantro and tortilla strips, a side of black beans topped with spicy habanero sauce, served with house salsa and flour tortillas. It’s enough to feed an army.

    There’s also another platter of eggs, turkey sausage (OK, not bad), buttered, toasted ciabatta bread and a choice of fruit or skillet potatoes (go for the fruit, man!).

    And there are several new breakfast sandwiches. My personal favorite is the Breakfast BLT: bacon, lettuce, Roma tomatoes, mayo, scrambled eggs and cheddar cheese on a buttery toasted brioche bun. (Yes, I tried it, so shoot me, just don’t tell my doctor.) It’s about four times the size of a dinky Mickey D’s sausage biscuit.

    “Growing up my mom used to make this for us,” Martin says. “But she used a fried egg.”

    On the plus side, you can get all of these dishes with egg white only.

    Bad enough that these yummy morning meals are being served up all over town at the ubiquitous Cafe Expresses, but then the restaurant of Southern charm and comfort food, decides to open for breakfast.

    Eloise Adams Jones opened her eponymous Ouisie’s Table at 7 a.m. to start serving morning meals. Now there are a lot of healthy choices here, fruit plates, granola, steel cut oats (hold that butter) and even a smoked salmon sandwich for those important omega-3 fatty acids.

    But I’m not gonna order those, am I?

    Oh no, I’m lusting after her famous cheese grits, crabcake Benedict and of course the chicken fried steak with my beloved biscuits and gravy on the side. Order that with an Irish coffee, or just another side of gravy, and you’re in heaven.

    And just when you thought you could actually start liking turkey bacon, the long awaited Revival Market opens in the Heights offering a plethora of piggy products.

    Brainchild of chef Ryan Pera, formerly of The Grove, and heritage farmer Morgan Weber, Revival Market is a trendy take on an old timey country store. It’s charming interior is constructed of white subway tiled walls and reclaimed Ship Lap Pine from a local home, with an antique butcher block and wooden crates of fresh, local produce. In fact, everything sold here is sourced from a 150-mile radius. It’s all about the environment, education and, of course, eating.

    “Five years ago we couldn’t even dream of finding enough local produce to fill this shop,” co-owner Weber says. “But now we’re seeing a come back of the small family farm, and this is a place to showcase their products.”

    “We want to utilize the local bounty,” adds Pera, who has a butcher room in back and a glass fronted dry charcuterie room where Weber’s pigs are turned into luscious prosciutto and long sausages. Of course they put tables right in front of the glass so you can drool over the hanging hams.

    Since Revial just opened Monday, (doors open Monday through Saturday at 6:30 a.m. and 10 a.m. on Sundays) breakfast is limited to selections at the coffee bar (locally roasted Katz Coffee and Max Gonzalez’s Catalina beans are staples), Slow Dough Bread Co. offerings and sugary goodness from pastry chef Rebecca Masson’s Fluff Bake Bar. (Nothing wrong with a mocha and slice of cream pie for breakfast, now is there?)

    But Pera plans to offer hot morning meals soon. I just hope I can get that cholesterol down by then because I’m hankerin’ for a big meal of Slow Dough sourdough toast slathered in butter and several slices of thick Mangalitsa pork bacon.

    In the meantime, I’ll have to buy my own to cook at home, along with lots of those handmade smoked hot dogs the circumference of Dachshunds, and plenty of those old-fashioned glass jars full of house-made preserves, rillettes, pâtés, Heights honey and sorghum syrup aged in whiskey barrels.

    “Because everything tastes better from a whiskey barrel,” Weber says.

    Ya gotta love these guys.

    unspecified
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    Major closures, celeb sightings, more top Houston restaurant news 2025

    Eric Sandler
    Dec 26, 2025 | 1:15 pm
    Austin Simmons Charolais restaurant headshot
    Courtesy of Chef Austin Simmons
    Austin Simmons is opening Charolais by Chef Austin Simmons.

    Editor’s note: Readers turn to CultureMap to stay informed on all the latest Houston restaurant news, but some stories grab more people’s attention than others. As always, closings rank highly, taking seven of the 10 places on this list. What’s notable is that the closings included both restaurants open for more than 25 years as well as a steakhouse that closed in less than two years. While the results are mostly doom-and-gloom, we found joy in one of America’s most famous former athletes surprising the diners at popular Houston restaurant — and leaving one lucky waiter a tip worth celebrating.

    Here are the 10 most-read CultureMap restaurant and bar stories of 2025.

    1. Houston chef breaks his silence on sudden exit from Woodlands restaurant. Speaking exclusively to CultureMap, chef Austin Simmons explained the reasons for his surprising departure from Tris, including a dispute with the restaurant’s owner over interior renovations. After taking some time to focus on his Chef & Rancher beef company, Simmons announced in September that he’ll open Charolais by Chef Austin Simmons in the Hughes Landing district. Scheduled to open in April, the restaurant will also have a companion butcher shop that sells meat from Chef & Rancher.

    2. Pioneering Houston Mexican restaurant will shutter after 44 years. Chef Arnaldo Richards announced his intention to close his Mexican restaurant Picos. He cited a number of factors, including a decline in business and the death of his brother Alex. Due to an overwhelmingly enthusiastic response from Houstonians, Picos extended its closing until early 2026.

    3. Houston restaurant served Beyoncé a Southern feast for her first meal in H-Town. When Beyoncé Knowles-Carter returned to Houston for two sold-out shows at NRG Stadium, she and her family turned to downtown restaurant Taste Kitchen + Bar for a Southern feast. The epic spread included jerk lamb chops with deep-fried lobster, smothered chicken with collard greens, and the restaurant’s signature chicken and waffles. Later that weekend, Taste chef-owner Don Bowie shared a photo with Jay-Z.

    4. Shaquille O'Neal leaves $1,000 tip at Houston Tex-Mex institution. The NBA Hall-of-Famer, media personality, and restaurateur dined at Ninfa’s Uptown in July. Sitting in the main dining room, he posed for pictures with both fans and the restaurant’s staff. After dining on crispy tacos, he left his server a very generous tip.

    5. James Harden's Houston restaurant locked out over $2.2 million in unpaid rent. The former Houston Rocket’s tenure as a restaurant owner came to an abrupt end in September, when the building’s landlord locked out Thirteen for non-payment of rent. Harden opened Thirteen in 2021, shortly after he left the Rockets for the Brooklyn Nets. In July, he signed a two-year, $81.5 million contract with the Los Angeles Clippers.

    6. Award-winning Houston steakhouse will close after only 2 years. Although it has achieved success and spots in the Michelin Guide with both Candente and The Pit Room, Sambrooks Hospitality couldn’t find an audience for Andiron, its live fire steakhouse in Montrose. Even after pivoting to a more affordable menu, Andiron wasn’t financially viable. New Orleans restaurateur Malachi DuPre claimed the space for Casa Kenji, a new seafood restaurant that blends Japanese and Latin influences.

    7. Surprise chef resignation shutters The Woodlands' best restaurant. Chef Austin Simmons took two spots in this year’s top 10. The sudden closure of Tris, a fine dining steakhouse that drew celebrities such as Joe Rogan, shocked the Houston community. Bari Ristorante, an Italian restaurant in River Oaks District, will open its second location in the space in early 2026.

    8. Top-rated Houston restaurant will close after 8 years in Montrose. Chef Ryan Lachaine cited the increased costs of operating a restaurant when he announced he would close Riel at the end of August. Food enthusiasts and hospitality workers flooded the restaurant for one final meal of caviar tots, pierogies, and other fan favorites. Lachaine found a new position as the executive chef of River Oaks restaurants State of Grace.

    9. Beloved Houston Italian restaurant will close after 27 years in Montrose. Surely one of this year’s saddest closures is Paulie’s, the Italian restaurant in Montrose, and its companion wine bar Camerata. Owner Paul Petronella said he was unable to agree on lease terms with the building’s landlord. Since the announcement, fans have lined up for one last meal of pastas, salads, and decorated shortbread cookies.

    10. Meet the men behind Houston's most under-the-radar Italian restaurant. In this episode of CultureMap’s “What’s Eric Eating” podcast, Mimo owners Mike Sammons and chef Fernando Rios share how working together at Da Marco became the basis of a friendship and business partnership. In addition to discussing their decision to open Mimo and how it has achieved success, the episode also includes insights from both men on Marco Wiles, the pioneering Houston chef and restaurateur behind Da Marco, Vinoteca Poscol, and the late, lamented Dolce Vita pizzeria.

    Austin Simmons Charolais restaurant headshot
    Courtesy of Chef Austin Simmons
    Austin Simmons is opening Charolais by Chef Austin Simmons.
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