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    Food for Thought

    Julia Child might cry, but Cat Cora knows fish can sing sans butter

    Marene Gustin
    Mar 24, 2010 | 5:09 am
    • Ciao Bello's Red Snapper Tesoro cooked in lemons and vermouth and topped withcrab and shrimp
    • A close-up of Tony Vallone's whole baby trout gently oven roasted and swimmingin a lemony ristretto
    • Ciao Bello’s menu Red Snapper Mandoriate with crunchy toasted almonds and littleAlba mushrooms bursting with flavor

    Some things in life just aren’t fair.

    Like the fact that by the time you develop the knowledge and funds to really enjoy food, great restaurants and fine cooking, your body decides it can no longer handle the calories involved. I’ve given up the idea I’m ever going to fit into the size two jeans in the back of the closet, but still, I would like to hold off the onslaught of gaining more pounds.

    So, enter the Mediterranean diet. Buh-bye thick filet mignons and burgers dripping with meat juice that runs down your chin. So long beloved butter. Hello fish and olive oil.

    Celebrity chef Cat Cora knows the benefits. In town Saturday for a cooking demonstration at Macy’s at Memorial, Cora is not only the only female Iron Chef but also 43 and just gave birth to a son and looks like a fashion model. She told me last week that she is still inspired by her mentor Julia Child, but often uses olive oil instead of Child’s go-to ingredient of butter. Somehow I can’t imagine Sole Meuniere cooked in olive oil, but I’m trying.

    And I do love fish. Salmon is on the menu at my house several times a week, although I’ve cut back on Tyler Florence’s seared salmon recipe where you smear the skin side with butter to make it extra crispy.

    Sigh. But at least I’m not alone in my fight.

    Lunching at Ciao Bello with owner Tony Vallone last week we were plied with tasty dishes from the thin-crust margherita pizza to the amazing osso buco ravioli with its light meaty flavor and rich porcini sauce. It’s a little mound of umami heaven on a plate that melts in your mouth. But Vallone was having none of those goodies. He patted his stomach and explained that his doctor wants him to lose some weight.

    What a terrible thing for a restaurateur to hear but, once again, it’s the fish to the rescue. What Vallone did polish off was a wonderful and very light dish of whole baby trout gently oven roasted and swimming in a lemony ristretto. Fragrant and flavorful, it was truly a healthy and filling meal on its own that can invoke images of seaside dinners along the Amalfi Coast even if you’ve never been to Italy. Also not be missed on Ciao Bello’s menu is the Red Snapper Mandoriate with crunchy toasted almonds and little Alba mushrooms bursting with flavor. And then there was the Red Snapper Tesoro cooked in lemons and vermouth and topped with crab and shrimp, a seafood explosion of taste and sunshine.

    Truly this whole fish with no butter thing is something a foodie on a diet can embrace, and I’ll be back at Ciao Bello soon to soak up the fresh fish swimming in delicate flavors that warm the heart and satisfy the stomach while keeping the girth in check.

    Just remember the immortal line form the Godfather — slightly revised — “leave the cannoli, take the fish.”

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    designed for all occasions

    New restaurant's Astrodome-inspired design is 'unlike anything in Houston'

    Emily Cotton
    May 1, 2026 | 2:05 pm
    Kirkwood restaurant interior
    Photo by Leonid Furmansky
    Kirkwood's design includes a recreation of the Astrodome's ceiling.

    Legendary Houstonian Mac Haik has managed to fit many lives into his impressive 80 years. Haik, whose empire of car dealerships made him a household name, played no small part in the development of the city’s booming west side. Prior to that, at just 22-years-old, Haik made history with the Houston Oilers as the first person to catch a touchdown pass in the Astrodome.

    His latest venture — the glitzy Kirkwood restaurant — pays homage to the Energy Corridor, a storied football career, and the people who helped him along the way.

    While the Mac Haik Restaurant Group has focused on franchises such as breakfast concept First Watch, Kirkwood is its debut signature restaurant concept. The restaurant’s kitchen is led by executive chef Stephen Chiang, who guests will see quite a lot of thanks to the copper-clad, open-concept kitchen that includes a custom copper hood.

    Located at the base of Energy Tower II at 11720 Katy Freeway, MHRG designed Kirkwood to host a range of experiences. When it opens on Monday, May 11, Kirkwood is intended to become a go-to spot for lunch meetings, a chic spot for group dinners and celebrations, and a cozy place to share a romantic evening near the double-sided, all-seasons fireplace, among other occasions.

    It takes a keen eye and majorly-sharp editing skills to create a space that can perform so many different tasks. It’s unusual for a space that highlights a career in sports to read as elegant and refined, but designer Gin Braverman has done just that. Gin Design Group is the firm behind many of the best hospitality designs in Houston — including Eunice, Haii Keii, and ChòpnBlọk — and Kirkwood is no exception.

    “We were going for a classic clubhouse vibe with a Vegas layer of glitz — definitely a Vegas ‘wow factor,’” Braverman tells CultureMap. “It’s going to be a draw for everyone. You can rent out the sunroom as well as the private dining room, so that will be a big draw. There is a bar cart going around and table side features. There are so many different experiences to be had in the space. It’s going to hit all the boxes.”

    The 242-seat restaurant covers almost 7,000 square feet separated into distinctive spaces: a 154-seat main dining area; 16-seat private Frances Room, named after Haik’s mother; and a 1,900-square-foot sunroom, named the Sunny Room after Haik’s wife, with seating for 72 centered around a curved, double-sided fireplace.

    The restaurant’s symbol, a magnolia, is a nod to Haik’s home state of Mississippi. One impressive magnolia sighting belongs to the patinated-copper front doors inlaid with the flowers and accentuated by leather door pulls. Prior to entering, diners pass through a gallery of wall display cases with Mac Haik memorabilia.

    In the rotunda, customers are greeted from above by a mirrored glass replica of the ceiling of the Houston Astrodome, created by the artisans at Houston-based design and fabrication firm Rootlab. Broken stone mosaic floor tiles add playful movement and patter to the space. Tactile installations like felt wallcoverings by Phillip Jeffries and velvet draperies keep the space feeling warm and inviting amid all the glass and stone.

    The lounge occupies a raised platform with an artisan parquet floor and a burled-wood covered ceiling featuring beautifully-placed copper light fixtures by Tom Dixon, custom sofas, a custom rug, and custom tables.

    An inviting, oversized wraparound bar beckons diners to mingle beneath a tiered canopy, composed of burled walnut, which is also carried through to the bar’s facade, bullnose trim, and integrated foot rail. A marble countertop completes the bar, while the stone is repeated in the custom tables. Custom barstools take inspiration from the seats of Mac’s now vintage Porsche.

    Illuminated cove lighting anchors the bar space, with a red-tinted mirror installed behind the bar shelving and the liquor lockers on the end caps. The shelving is highlighted by custom LED racetrack lighting. Custom copper and alabaster bar lamps complete the space.

    Kirkwood’s booths have been upholstered with alternating leather and teal velvet fabrics with a copper-tinted toe-kick for a bit of glam. Custom arched lighting — crossing above each booth — is comprised of a copper finish structure, alabaster lenses, and copper chain accents.

    The central dining and exposition kitchen space is a framed with burled wood-clad banquettes with integrated planters. Broken stone mosaic floor tiles dance beneath the custom large-scale chandelier that features inverted alabaster and copper arches and a wood surround with integrated cove lighting.

    The private dining room features rich leather wall panelings, a custom leather buffet table, and a metallic gold plaster ceiling with hand-painted magnolia detailing.

    Lastly, the 1,400-square-foot sunroom features a knockout fireplace with an integrated overhead planter. Custom light columns with copper metal mesh flank the fireplace. An impressive glass-and-metal bar canopy attaches to the back bar fireplace.

    The restaurant’s art collection further enriches the space, with original works by English artist Paul Dove displayed throughout. In the private dining room, an original painting by Austin-based artist Lucy MacQueen offers a more personal note, interpreting “The Grove” at Haik’s alma mater, Ole Miss. The piece also serves as a quiet tribute to his mother, Frances Jordan, who was recently honored with a memorial wall at the iconic site. Artist Melissa Leandro contributed a vibrantly embroidered interpretation of the magnolia motifs to the back wall of the sunroom.

    Overall, Braverman is thrilled with the design of Kirkwood. So, which spot is her favorite?

    “The sunroom,” she says. “That circular bar with the column lamps and fireplace with the skylight are unlike anything else in Houston.”

    Kirkwood restaurant interior

    Photo by Leonid Furmansky

    Kirkwood's design includes a recreation of the Astrodome's ceiling.

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