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    Food for Thought

    Julia Child might cry, but Cat Cora knows fish can sing sans butter

    Marene Gustin
    Mar 24, 2010 | 5:09 am
    • Ciao Bello's Red Snapper Tesoro cooked in lemons and vermouth and topped withcrab and shrimp
    • A close-up of Tony Vallone's whole baby trout gently oven roasted and swimmingin a lemony ristretto
    • Ciao Bello’s menu Red Snapper Mandoriate with crunchy toasted almonds and littleAlba mushrooms bursting with flavor

    Some things in life just aren’t fair.

    Like the fact that by the time you develop the knowledge and funds to really enjoy food, great restaurants and fine cooking, your body decides it can no longer handle the calories involved. I’ve given up the idea I’m ever going to fit into the size two jeans in the back of the closet, but still, I would like to hold off the onslaught of gaining more pounds.

    So, enter the Mediterranean diet. Buh-bye thick filet mignons and burgers dripping with meat juice that runs down your chin. So long beloved butter. Hello fish and olive oil.

    Celebrity chef Cat Cora knows the benefits. In town Saturday for a cooking demonstration at Macy’s at Memorial, Cora is not only the only female Iron Chef but also 43 and just gave birth to a son and looks like a fashion model. She told me last week that she is still inspired by her mentor Julia Child, but often uses olive oil instead of Child’s go-to ingredient of butter. Somehow I can’t imagine Sole Meuniere cooked in olive oil, but I’m trying.

    And I do love fish. Salmon is on the menu at my house several times a week, although I’ve cut back on Tyler Florence’s seared salmon recipe where you smear the skin side with butter to make it extra crispy.

    Sigh. But at least I’m not alone in my fight.

    Lunching at Ciao Bello with owner Tony Vallone last week we were plied with tasty dishes from the thin-crust margherita pizza to the amazing osso buco ravioli with its light meaty flavor and rich porcini sauce. It’s a little mound of umami heaven on a plate that melts in your mouth. But Vallone was having none of those goodies. He patted his stomach and explained that his doctor wants him to lose some weight.

    What a terrible thing for a restaurateur to hear but, once again, it’s the fish to the rescue. What Vallone did polish off was a wonderful and very light dish of whole baby trout gently oven roasted and swimming in a lemony ristretto. Fragrant and flavorful, it was truly a healthy and filling meal on its own that can invoke images of seaside dinners along the Amalfi Coast even if you’ve never been to Italy. Also not be missed on Ciao Bello’s menu is the Red Snapper Mandoriate with crunchy toasted almonds and little Alba mushrooms bursting with flavor. And then there was the Red Snapper Tesoro cooked in lemons and vermouth and topped with crab and shrimp, a seafood explosion of taste and sunshine.

    Truly this whole fish with no butter thing is something a foodie on a diet can embrace, and I’ll be back at Ciao Bello soon to soak up the fresh fish swimming in delicate flavors that warm the heart and satisfy the stomach while keeping the girth in check.

    Just remember the immortal line form the Godfather — slightly revised — “leave the cannoli, take the fish.”

    unspecified
    news/restaurants-bars

    Oh, Donna

    New Houston cocktail bar serves up a house party fueled by music and martinis

    Eric Sandler
    Dec 15, 2025 | 5:30 pm
    Donna's cocktail bar interior
    Courtesy of Donna's
    People are flocking to Donna's.

    It hasn’t taken long for Houston cocktail fans to discover Donna’s. Ever since it opened Thanksgiving weekend, the new cocktail bar in the Heights has been packed with people eager to check out the new project from Anvil owner Bobby Heugel and veteran Houston bartender Jacki Schromm.

    Named for Schromm’s grandmother, both partners use the word “house party” to describe the kind of atmosphere they want to create at Donna’s. That party can be very energetic on busy weekend nights and a little quieter and more intimate during the week — allowing patrons to choose what kind of experience they want to have.

    Heugel and Schromm worked with collaborators on the design, music, and art for Donna’s. So far, people seem to be enjoying themselves.

    “It’s really f---ing awesome,” Schromm tells CultureMap. “It has been really remarkable to have people in this building. To see the room full is a rewarding experience. The feedback we’ve received has just been really positive.”

    To transform the former Ready Room into Donna’s, the partners collaborated with Brittany Vaughn of Garnish Design. Known for her work at establishments such as Tiny Champions, Maximo, and Milton’s, Vaughn helped divide the retro-styled cocktail bar into two distinct interior spaces. The main bar area is defined by high-top, organically-shaped tables that allow large groups to congregate or smaller groups to share without being on top of each other. The more intimate living room section features a large couch and a spacious booth.

    “There’s a lot of smart utility in the space,” Heugel explains. “We kept talking about how it’s a small space. We want to find a seat for everybody as much as possible.”

    To honor the space’s history of hosting live music, the partners worked with Chicago-based firm Uncanned on a powerful vintage stereo that includes both a reel-to-reel tape deck and a turntable. Known locally for their work at restaurants such as Nancy’s Hustle and Nobie’s, the Uncanned team gave Donna’s the ability to kick out the jams with ultra-clear sound while not being so loud that people can’t talk to each other. It also opens up the possibility of people playing their favorite albums on select nights.

    “Jacki and I both had the bold opinion when we started talking about Donna’s that cocktail bars were boring. We wanted to add more layers to the onion,” Heugel says. “Having music be here as an additional component to the bar makes the room feel really good. That’s important to us, and we’ll have some programming related to that.”

    Keli Hogsett of Austin’s CoCollect helped Schromm and Heugel select the room’s distinctive art on its walls. Heugel describes the works as museum-quality, contemporary pieces from regional artists that are a cut above what’s usually seen in bars. Hogsett will also source the art for the new restaurant Heugel and chef Justin Yu are opening next year in the former Vibrant space.

    Schromm, who partnered with Heugel after working at Anvil and Reserve 101, created the opening cocktail menu herself. One highlight is the Jacki’s Martini, a nod to the “Bobby’s Martini” served at Refuge and the “Terry’s Martini” served at Squable. It’s a 50-50 mix of gin with Cocchi Americano and Dolin Blanc vermouth. She describes it as more “sessionable” than a traditional martini.

    “I think this cocktail menu has a lot of personality,” she says. “Some of my flair, whether it’s a spirit I chose or a flavor I like.”

    Although parking on the property is limited, Heugel notes that street parking on White Oak is relatively plentiful. A nearby pay lot is available, or people can skip the issue altogether by using their favorite rideshare service.

    Of course, the adjacent restaurant space won’t stay empty for long. As CultureMap has previously reported, Austin-based pizzeria Home Slice has claimed the building for its second Houston location that will open in fall 2026.

    -----

    Donna's, 2626 White Oak Drive. Open daily from 2 pm-2 am

    Donna's cocktail bar interior

    Courtesy of Donna's

    People are flocking to Donna's.

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