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    What's Eric Eating Episode 44

    Trendy Texas mill springs into Houston, plus the latest local dining buzz

    CultureMap Staff
    Mar 22, 2018 | 1:40 pm

    On this week's episode of "What's Eric Eating," miller James Brown and Austin chef Adam Brick join CultureMap food editor Eric Sandler to discuss Barton Springs Mill, a business that transforms organic and heritage grains and corn into a wide variety of flours. Barton Springs Mill's products are used in recipes at 15 of Austin American-Statesman critic Matthew Odam's top 25 restaurants of 2017 and have been identified by CultureMap Austin as a top dining trend for 2018.

    Brown begins the conversation by explaining how an interest in baking led him to start the business and how he works with Texas farmers to develop a market both for the products produced by the mill as well as the cover crops they grow that help making growing wheat more economically viable. Barton Springs is also working with a small group of craft breweries and distilleries to produce true grain-to-glass Texas beers and spirits.

    Brick, a rising star Austin chef who worked at Apis and is currently developing a new concept called Marinas, has become a passionate advocate for Brown's products and is helping him break into the Houston market. The chef has strong opinions about which restaurants should be using these ingredients in their recipes, as he explains.

    As a chef, you look at McDonald's or Wendy's, you see the words 'local' and 'seasonal.' It's a marketing term now. For me, if you truly do care about local and you truly do care about a seasonal menu, then working with James is a no-brainer. If you want to consider yourself a chef who works with local, if you don't work with local flour, which is the bedrock of our civilization, then you really shouldn't be talking about local.

    Brick also shares the status of his plans to open Marinas, which will be an all-day cafe on the city's east side, and his tentative plans to bring the concept to Houston in 2019. As always, the interview concludes with the lightning round, where Brown gives a surprising answer to the question of who his favorite Houston athlete past or present is.

    Prior to Brown and Brick joining the show, Urban Harvest market manager Tyler Horne joins Sandler to discuss the news of the week. Their topics include the announcement of four additional vendors coming to Finn Hall, Houston chefs being shut out of the list of finalists for the James Beard award for Best Chef: Southwest, and the changes at The Honeymoon downtown. In the restaurants of the week segment, Sandler shares his first impressions of the new Montrose location of BuffBurger, Horne discusses his recent meal at Night Heron, and the duo rave about the El Topo food truck that appears at Urban Harvest's Saturday farmers market.

    ---

    Subscribe to "What's Eric Eating" on iTunes or Google Play. Listen to it every Saturday at 11 am on SportsMap 94.1.

    Bread made with Barton Springs Mill flour.

    Barton Springs Mill bread
    Barton Springs Mill/Instagram
    Bread made with Barton Springs Mill flour.
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    say hey to Hypsi

    Houston chef's hip new Italian restaurant now open in Heights hotel

    Eric Sandler
    Dec 4, 2025 | 5:05 pm
    Hypsi restaurant food spread
    Photo by Julie Soefer
    Hypsi serves pasta and other Itaian-inspired dishes.

    A new Italian restaurant is now open in the Heights. Located within the newly opened Hotel Daphne, Hypsi marks chef Terrence Gallivan’s return to professional cooking in Houston.

    Known for his time as the co-execuive chef of The Pass and Provisions and owner of ElRo Pizza and Crudo, Gallivan brings strong culinary credentials to Hypsi. Although he isn’t known explicitly for Italian fare, he has significant experience making pizza, pasts, and other Italian-inspired dishes. After closing ElRo last year, the chef says that working for Bunkhouse Hotels, the Austin-based company that operates the Daphne, had a lot of appeal.

    “My wife and I always made it a point to stop at their places whenever we’re in Austin. They know how to make cool stuff,” Gallivan says.

    Hypsi’s menu includes updated takes on Italian fare begins with starters such as lamb meatballs, black truffle arancini, and Caesar salad. A selection of house-made pastas include squid ink radiatori with rock shrimp, butternut squash tortellini, and lumache with vodka sauce that gets a little heat from nduja. Entree choices include a roast chicken, pork Milanese, and roasted snapper with salsa verde.

    The restaurant is also open for breakfast during the week and brunch on the weekends with items such as a panatone waffle, frittata, and breakfast sandwich. Lunch will follow in January.

    “We took inspiration from tradition without being traditional,” Gallivan says. Later, he adds, “For me, it’s about balance. You try to please everybody. I want my mom to enjoy herself as much as a 25-year-old foodie. It’s important to hit as many marks as you can.”

    One of the restaurant’s signatures will be the mozzarella cart that rolls through its dining room. Gallivan says he’s sourcing a mix of both American and imported Italian cheeses that will rotate every week or two. The cheese is served with a range of pickled fruit and vegetables, olive oil, aged balsamic vinegar, focaccia, and more. Of course, seeing a cart immediately grabs diners’ attention, making them want whatever is on offer.

    “That’s the beauty of carts,” Gallivan says. “It’s a fun thing to do. I think sometimes we get a little too serious in restaurants. It’s supposed to be fun. People are here to enjoy themselves.”

    All that eating and drinking takes place in a dining room that’s inspired by Prohibition-era speakeasies, according to press materials. Details include blueberry lava stone on the bar, vintage velvet chairs, and custom Carimate dining chairs by Vico Magistretti. An outdoor patio features brick pavers, mosaic tables, and sculptures.

    Hypsi restaurant food spread

    Photo by Julie Soefer

    Hypsi serves pasta and other Itaian-inspired dishes.

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