james beard semifinalists 2022

Oscars of the food world recognize Houston chefs and restaurants with 12 semifinalist nominations

Chef-owner Alex Au-Yeung.

Photo by Kimberly Park

The James Beard Awards have returned. After a two-year hiatus, the James Beard Foundation revealed its semifinalists for its 2022 Restaurant and Chef Awards.

Considered the Oscars of the food world, the awards recognize outstanding chefs and other culinary professionals in a wide range of categories ranging from Outstanding Chef to Best New Restaurant and a range of media categories. This year will be the first time the foundation has given an award for Best Chef: Texas, which it created after the 2019 awards to recognize the state’s diverse collection of talent.

Houston restaurants and bars are well represented among both the national and regional awards. Overall, the city earned five national nominations and leads the way with seven nominations for Best Chef: Texas.

They are:

Outstanding Restaurateur: Chris Williams, Lucille’s Hospitality Group
Best New Restaurant: Pier 6 Seafood & Oyster House
Outstanding Pastry Chef: Ruben Ortega, Xochi
Outstanding Hospitality: Hugo’s
Outstanding Bar Program: Julep

Best Chef: Texas nominees:

Alex Au-Yeung, Phat Eatery
Aaron Bludorn, Bludorn
Sylvia Casares, Sylvia's Enchilada Kitchen
Christine Ha and Tony J. Nguyen, Xin Chào
Quy Hoang, Blood Bros. BBQ
Kaiser Lashkari, Himalaya Restaurant
Felipe Riccio, March

Elsewhere in Texas, Dallas-Fort Worth garnered five national five Best Chef: Texas nominations. San Antonio earned four national and four Best Chef: Texas nominations. Austin trailed with two national nods, both for Emerging Chef, and two Best Chef: Texas nominees.

Barbecue pitmasters faired well in the Texas category. In addition to Hoang, Esaul Ramos Jr. (2M Smokehouse in San Antonio), Ernest Servantes and David Kirkland (Burnt Bean Co. in Seguin), and Damien Brockway (Distant Relatives in Austin) all lead barbecue joints that named to Texas Monthly’s recent 50 best list.

Including pitmasters reflects the foundation’s goal to broaden the types of chefs and restaurants that it considers for its awards. After the foundation canceled its 2020 awards, the New York Times reported that none of 2020’s Black nominees won their categories. The organization also faced criticism that it nominated people accused of unethical behavior.

After an audit, the foundation overhauled the awards process. Nominees must now provide an alignment statement that demonstrates their support for at least one of the foundation’s stated values of equity, transparency, respect, integrity, community, and passion. In addition, the foundation changed eligibility requirements for voting. Whether these changes are enough to satisfy critics remains to be seen.

The Beard Foundation will announce the finalists for its restaurant and chef awards as well as the honorees for the Leadership, Lifetime Achievement Award, and Humanitarian of the Year Awards on March 16. Media award finalists will be revealed on April 27. Winners will be awarded in Chicago on June 13.

Alex Au-Yeung, Phat Eatery.

Photo by Kimberly Park

Alex Au-Yeung, Phat Eatery.

awards

drew be goode

New pitmaster brings top 50 cred to historic Houston barbecue joint

Goode Co Barbecue Drew Lindsey pitmaster

Photo by Brian Kennedy

Drew Lindsey is Goode Co.'s new multi-unit pitmaster.

One of Houston’s oldest barbecue joints has brought in fresh talent to oversee its operations. Drew Lindsey is the new Multi-Unit Pitmaster for Goode Co. Barbeque.

Lindsey brings an impressive resume to his role. His career began at the Austin location of Michelin-recommended Terry Black’s Barbecue and also includes stops at Hurtado Barbecue (Arlington) and Dayne’s Craft Barbecue, the Fort Worth-area restaurant ranked No. 7 on Texas Monthly’s 2025 list of the state’s 50 best barbecue joints. Now, he’s responsible for ensuring consistency across Goode Co. Barbecue’s three locations and developing new menu items.

Still, Lindsey’s role isn’t to rock the boat. Instead, he tells CultureMap he’s simply looking to refine what the restaurant has been doing since 1977.

“I was drawn to Goode Co because of its rich history, the deep roots that Jim Goode planted in the Houston area back in 1977,” Lindsey says. “Being able to contribute to that legacy while continuing to grow as a pitmaster and leader was an opportunity that really stood out for me. It’s about projecting the craft and developing people, making sure that no matter which location a guest visits they receive the great quality barbecue that Goode Co. represents.”

He notes that one way Goode Co.’s brisket is different from places he’s worked previously is its seasonings, which adds a few more ingredients to the familiar mix of salt and pepper that’s the standard in Central Texas-style barbecue.

“The way that I would describe it is Southeast Texas barbecue with a little bit of Texicana, like Mexico-style barbecue.” Later, he adds, “I like that there’s a little more flavor in the rub itself for brisket.”

Another of Lindsey’s roles is developing new menu items and tweaking some of the restaurant’s existing dishes. For example, Goode Co.’s pork ribs are now finished with an agave glaze.

“One thing I’ve been working on a is a tequila-lime glaze pork belly burnt end,” he says. “They’re seasoned with black pepper and Mexican seasoned salt then dunked into a tequila lime glaze — nice, thick, one inch cube of pork belly.”

Diners will find these and other items on a bi-weekly features menu that’s served every Thursday through Sunday. Available from open until sold out, the current menu includes pulled pork, jalapeno-cheddar sausage link, and green chile pimento cheese dip with Ritz firecrackers.

Lindsey says he’s still getting to know Houston’s barbecue scene. So far, he’s tried Tejas Chocolate + Barbecue in Tomball and Truth BBQ, but he has plans to sample more broadly.

“Khoi Barbecue is one I want to try. I love the fusion of Asian cuisine with Central Texas-style barbecue,” he says.

Photo by Brian Kennedy

Drew Lindsey is Goode Co.'s new multi-unit pitmaster.

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