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    Like coming home

    Ninfa's new neighbor competitor restaurant opens with a bang, heating up the Tex-Mex battle

    Tyler Rudick
    Feb 14, 2013 | 7:29 am

    After more than a decade, the Laurenzo family is back on Navigation — the East End thoroughfare where matriarch Mama Ninfa Laurenzo opened her namesake cafe in 1973.

    "This is where it all started, so it's like coming home," says Roland Laurenzo from the newest branch of El Tiempo, which opened this week just steps from his mother's original Tex-Mex restaurant.

    Roland, his wife Bianca and his son Domenic launched El Tiempo in 1998 when the Ninfa's empire slipped from family control. In the last 15 years, the Laurenzos have carried Mama's torch to four other Tiempo outposts.

    "We didn't want it to feel like it was brand new. We've tried to hire as many local artisans as possible, which helps things feel a little older and cared for. ""

    But the Laurenzos' new location on Navigation presents a bit of a conundrum for Houston foodies. In recent years, the Original Ninfa's has been lovingly re-imagined by chef Alex Padillo and cocktail wunderkind Bobby Heugel. And while it's wonderful for Mama's family to be back in the neighborhood, they have some serious competition next door.

    "We didn't want it to feel like it was brand new," he explains to CultureMap on a tour of the restaurant. "We've tried to hire as many local artisans as possible, which helps things feel a little older and cared for.

    "The paneling around the base of the bar is totally hand-carved . . . I actually helped make all the chairs in the dining room with our crew."

    A large patio area sits along Navigation, awaiting sets of handmade cypress tables and chairs. Next to the patio, an open L-shaped sun room hugs the main interior dining room. In milder weather, the sun room windows will be opened for an additional patio area. The large room also doubles as a banquet space.

    The restaurant's real magic will happen behind the scenes in a kitchen and work area that Domenic Laurenzo — with longtime friend and builder Andy Picos— designed from years of in-house experience at other El Tiempos. There's a carefully-planned tortilla area, a state-of-the-art dishwashing room and a cooking area created to be as efficient as possible.

    Also cool is a freezer dedicated to that staple of Tex-Mex cuisine, the almighty margarita. The drink mix is made on-site from natural ingredients and then stored in the freezer inside special containers that keep the concoction constantly moving. A separate cooling compressor on the roof keeps the liquid ice cold before it's siphoned to margarita machines at the bar . . . Technological efficiency at its best.

    El Tiempo opens its fifth official location . . . just steps from the Original Ninfa's on Navigation.

    El Tiempo, Navigation
    Photo by Tyler Rudick
    El Tiempo opens its fifth official location . . . just steps from the Original Ninfa's on Navigation.
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    Coming soon to Fredericksburg

    Houston restaurant vet serves up Roman-style eatery in the Hill Country

    Brandon Watson
    Dec 26, 2025 | 3:30 pm
    Bottega Salaria Fredericksburg
    Photo courtesy of Bottega Salaria
    Valerio Lombardozzi is opening Bottega Salaria in the former home of La Bergerie.

    Valerio Lombardozzi’s culinary career has taken him to the world’s finest kitchens, including restaurants owned by icons like Alain Ducasse, Giorgio Locatelli, and Joël Robuchon. In Houston, he led La Table and Tavola, where he earned a reputation for being one of the city's most engaging front of the house personalities.

    But his latest project might be his biggest accomplishment yet. The hospitality veteran is opening Bottega Salaria, a homey Italian osteria and artisan market, in the former home of La Bergerie at 312 E Austin St in his adopted home of Fredericksburg.

    Lombardozzi says the restaurant, expected to arrive in winter 2026, fills a gap in the Hill Country dining scene, but, more importantly, it's a reflection of his personal history and time spent working at his family’s restaurant in Rome.

    “[It’s about] where I grew up, how I grew up, and how I eat,” he shares.

    The three-concept experience is inspired by Italy’s Via Salaria, the ancient route Italians used to transport salt from the Adriatic Sea to Rome. The menu acts as a sort of travelogue, borrowing from the different cultures along the road, and the way village fishermen and shepherds ate.

    Lombardozzi is quick to say he didn’t want to open a chef-driven restaurant. Instead, the osteria will serve traditional Roman staples such as cacio e pepe, amatriciana, carbonara, saltimbocca with sage and prosciutto, and branzino carved tableside.

    “I was one of the last to be exposed to the old generation of professionals who knew how to carve elegantly for the guests,” he says.

    The adjacent bottega will stay open during restaurant hours, offering fresh pasta made on-site, house-made sauces, imported Italian pantry items, cheeses, salumi, breads, and biscotti. Patrons will be able to shop for individual items or put together custom gift baskets.

    Outdoors, La Fraschetteria will debut a new hospitality experience in the U.S. The self-guided experience invites diners to grab wine directly from garden shelves, gather a spread of meats, cheeses, bread, or pasta, and linger around long communal tables lit by string lights.

    Keeping the chit-chat going will be a thoughtful beverage program anchored by a primarily Italian wine list and imported beer. Lombardozzi says the cocktail menu might be a surprise, offering only gin and tonics, spritzes, and negronis. The latter has been made into a game where diners roll dice to determine the evening's combination of gin, vermouth, and bitters.

    After dinner, guests can select an amaro from a rolling cart, sip grappa and limoncello, or sip a neat whiskey.

    Lombardozzi shares that he wants Bottega Salaria to be just as comfortable for Fredericksburg locals as it is for destination travelers. Beyond daily service, Bottega Salaria plans community events such as garden wine nights with live music, Sunday movie nights, and hands-on cooking classes.

    The space is designed for ease with a warm palette combining olive green and pomegranate reds. The decor blends heritage and modernity, bringing in objects like antique mirrors, plates, custom-made lamps, and even old tablecloths and curtains for an Old World feel.

    "We’re not just opening a restaurant,” Lombardozzi says. “We’re creating a gathering place. A home for everyone who loves Italian food, culture, and the joy of sharing a meal with others.”

    italian cuisinewinefredericksburghill countryopeningsnews-you-can-eat
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