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    Food Snob Free Zone

    A food snob free zone? New Kirby pizza restaurant keeps it simple, cheap and family friendly

    Eric Sandler
    Feb 12, 2014 | 12:28 pm

    Upper Kirby workers and residents in search of a casual pizza fix have a new dining option thanks to the recently opened Luna Pizzeria. The two-week-old restaurant replaced the Brown Bag Deli at the corner of Kirby and Richmond, and, like Brown Bag, it's a concept from the owners of casual, comfort food mini-empire Barnaby's Cafe.

    "I love pizza," owner Jeff Gale tells CultureMap. "This particular location was underperforming as Brown Bag. I wanted to offer the neighborhood an evening destination."

    Seeing that, with the exception of Star Pizza, the neighborhood was mostly serviced by chains, Gale saw an opportunity to launch Luna.

    They won't please pizza snobs who demand ultra-thin, crispy crusts, but the menu's basic choices, quick service and warm atmosphere will find an audience.

    As for the menu, "We kept it classic," Gale says. The restaurant's philosophy is to "buy good ingredients and do very little to them," which is reflected in the thick slices of andouille sausage on one pizza or the fresh arugula that tops another.

    While thin, crispy, Italian style pies are currently trendy, Luna goes another direction with a San Francisco style sourdough crust that's made for the restaurant by local bakery Angela's Oven. The recipe uses high quality King Arthur flour and does not contain any preservatives or stabilizers.

    Individual pizzas are only $7 and large enough to satisfy a lunch craving easily. They won't please pizza snobs who demand ultra-thin, crispy crusts, but the menu's basic choices, quick service and warm atmosphere will help it find an audience.

    Three basic salads and sandwiches round out the menu. In addition to the classic Barnaby's Caesar that's made with real anchovies, Gale is particularly proud of the arugula and fennel salad with Marcona almonds in a lemon vinaigrette.

    Luna offers counter service, but "we may go full service at night if our customers demand it," Gale says. The restaurant has applied for a retail liquor license that will allow it to sell beer and wine to go, but, since TABC won't grant final approval for at least two months, the restaurant is giving away wine for now.

    Given the success of both Barnaby's and Brown Bag, it seems natural that this Luna is the first of at least a few, but Gale says he's just trying to get this location running smoothly before looking ahead.

    "You never know," Gales replies about whether there will be additional Lunas. "If it goes well, it wouldn't be out of the question . . . but there's no master plan of opening more."

    For now, Luna offers a new, family friendly pizza joint in a neighborhood that doesn't have many of them. More of those are never a bad thing.

    The spicy andouille pizza gets a kick from fresh jalapenos.

    Luna Pizzeria Houston February 2014 pizza
    Photo by Eric Sandler
    The spicy andouille pizza gets a kick from fresh jalapenos.
    unspecified
    news/restaurants-bars

    in like the rose

    Mimo duo open tiny Italian sandwich and gelato shop in Houston's East End

    Eric Sandler
    Apr 29, 2026 | 5:52 pm
    La Rosa Fernando Rios Mike Sammons
    Photo by Eric Sandler
    Chef Fernando Rios and Mike Sammons recently opened La Rosa.

    When sommelier Mike Sammons and chef Fernando Rios teamed up to open their East End Italian restaurant Mimo in 2023, they did so by serving sandwiches that eventually went away once the restaurant moved to only being open for dinner with full service.

    Thankfully, the sandwiches are back at La Rosa, the duo’s new sandwich restaurant that, like Mimo, is located in the East End’s Tlaquepaque Market shopping center. Currently, it’s open Tuesday-Sunday with sandwiches for lunch (12-3 pm) and gelato until the early evening.

    “I have always wanted to do a sandwich shop. That’s always been a weird dream since an experience I had in Italy when I was younger,” Sammons tells CultureMap. “Even back in the days at 13 Celsius, that was a big driver for the mortadella sandwich we still do there.”

    La Rosa’s menu is as compact as its space, which has four indoor tables, a little dining counter, and a couple of outdoor tables. It consists of three sandwiches:

    • Mortadella, with fior di latte, arugula, pesto di pistachio, mostarda, and garlic aioli
    • Formaggio, a vegetarian sandwich with corn and zucchini fritters, arugula, pesto di pistachio, mostarda, and garlic aioli
    • A daily special that, on April 29, was made with bresaola, pecorino, horseradish crema, capers, arugula, and lemon.

    La Rosa Fernando Rios Mike Sammons

    Photo by Eric Sandler

    Chef Fernando Rios and Mike Sammons recently opened La Rosa.

    “We R&D’ed the hell out of them,” Sammons says about the sandwiches. “I can’t tell you how many mortadellas we’ve tasted and how many different kinds of fior di latte. Even the way we do the pesto di pistachio — dry as a bone or super wet with lots of olive oil.”

    Alright, Mike, explain how nerdy you and chef got with the ingredients in the mortadella sandwich.

    “First of all, when it comes to the mortadella, you have to be able to cut it so thinly you can look through it. It has to have a certain integrity and still have bite to it,” he explains. “The fior di latte has to be creamy and snappy. You have to be able to crush it flat so it oozes all over the sandwich. The pesto di pistachio has to have a real presence of raw pistachio.”

    The duo applied a similar discipline to finding the right platform for La Rosa’s sandwiches. Sammons says he and Rios tried all kinds of bread, eventually settling on a telera roll from Houston favorite El Bolillo.

    “It’s more of a vessel. Bread is always the star of a sandwich, but we want the star of the show to be almost a little hidden, like an uncelebrated special guest,” he says. “It’s crisp and crunchy with a toothsome bite that’s light and airy in the middle. It holds everything together but doesn’t dominate.”

    Similarly, they’re sourcing gelato from Houston’s SweetCup Gelato. Sammons says he tried multiple vendors, but Sweet Cup’s lemon sorbet is the one flavor that most reminded him of Italy. In addition to classics like pistachio, chocolate, and strawberry, chef Rios can work with Sweet Cup on flavors that will be exclusive to La Rosa.

    Rios is already rotating the specials. The opening weekend’s meatball sandwich quickly gave way to this week’s bresaola. Diners have plenty to look forward to, including favorites from the old days like Italian beef and chicken parm.

    Sammons has some aspirations, too. He plans to add beer and wine to the current non-alcoholic offerings of soda and sparkling water.

    The little shop has been surprisingly busy, he adds.

    “We sold out Sunday, which was unexpected,” Sammons says. “If we keep doing that, we’ll make more. So far, everyone has been supportive. I’m really excited. I think it’s going to be great.”

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    news/restaurants-bars

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