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    Food Snob Free Zone

    A food snob free zone? New Kirby pizza restaurant keeps it simple, cheap and family friendly

    Eric Sandler
    Feb 12, 2014 | 12:28 pm

    Upper Kirby workers and residents in search of a casual pizza fix have a new dining option thanks to the recently opened Luna Pizzeria. The two-week-old restaurant replaced the Brown Bag Deli at the corner of Kirby and Richmond, and, like Brown Bag, it's a concept from the owners of casual, comfort food mini-empire Barnaby's Cafe.

    "I love pizza," owner Jeff Gale tells CultureMap. "This particular location was underperforming as Brown Bag. I wanted to offer the neighborhood an evening destination."

    Seeing that, with the exception of Star Pizza, the neighborhood was mostly serviced by chains, Gale saw an opportunity to launch Luna.

    They won't please pizza snobs who demand ultra-thin, crispy crusts, but the menu's basic choices, quick service and warm atmosphere will find an audience.

    As for the menu, "We kept it classic," Gale says. The restaurant's philosophy is to "buy good ingredients and do very little to them," which is reflected in the thick slices of andouille sausage on one pizza or the fresh arugula that tops another.

    While thin, crispy, Italian style pies are currently trendy, Luna goes another direction with a San Francisco style sourdough crust that's made for the restaurant by local bakery Angela's Oven. The recipe uses high quality King Arthur flour and does not contain any preservatives or stabilizers.

    Individual pizzas are only $7 and large enough to satisfy a lunch craving easily. They won't please pizza snobs who demand ultra-thin, crispy crusts, but the menu's basic choices, quick service and warm atmosphere will help it find an audience.

    Three basic salads and sandwiches round out the menu. In addition to the classic Barnaby's Caesar that's made with real anchovies, Gale is particularly proud of the arugula and fennel salad with Marcona almonds in a lemon vinaigrette.

    Luna offers counter service, but "we may go full service at night if our customers demand it," Gale says. The restaurant has applied for a retail liquor license that will allow it to sell beer and wine to go, but, since TABC won't grant final approval for at least two months, the restaurant is giving away wine for now.

    Given the success of both Barnaby's and Brown Bag, it seems natural that this Luna is the first of at least a few, but Gale says he's just trying to get this location running smoothly before looking ahead.

    "You never know," Gales replies about whether there will be additional Lunas. "If it goes well, it wouldn't be out of the question . . . but there's no master plan of opening more."

    For now, Luna offers a new, family friendly pizza joint in a neighborhood that doesn't have many of them. More of those are never a bad thing.

    The spicy andouille pizza gets a kick from fresh jalapenos.

    Luna Pizzeria Houston February 2014 pizza
    Photo by Eric Sandler
    The spicy andouille pizza gets a kick from fresh jalapenos.
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    where there's smoke

    Houston's only Michelin-recognized Tex-Mex restaurant now open in Bellaire

    Eric Sandler
    Dec 22, 2025 | 11:59 am
    Candente brisket nachos
    Photo by Duc Hoang
    Don't miss the brisket nachos at Candente.

    It didn’t take Sambrook Hospitality Group long to turn Mandito’s into Candente. First announced in September, the restaurant’s second location officially opens today, Monday, December 22, at 5101 Bellaire Blvd.

    Speaking on a November episode of CultureMap’s “What’s Eric Eating” podcast, Sambrooks Hospitality founder Michael Sambrooks explained that, as a Bellaire resident, he saw an opportunity to open a restaurant close to home.

    “It was a combination of, this location became available, and we liked the market. I think Bellaire is underserved. As far as Tex-Mex options, I think it’s limited,” he says. “We always struggle with where’s somewhere we can grab a bite that’s five minutes away as opposed to driving to another part of town. I think Candente is that solution. I think it’s going to be pretty well received.”

    In terms of design, the restaurant replicates many of the same elements as the original Montrose location that opened in 2019, such as its copper-topped tables and yellow, orange, and maroon accents. Diners will note a mural by local artist Franky Cardona along one wall. Overall, the restaurant seats 125 in its dining room, 10 at its bar, and 24 on an outdoor patio.

    While the location is new, the menu is the same. That means the same wood-fired fajitas, brisket enchiladas, nachos, birria tacos, and other fare that helped it achieve a “Recommended” designation in the Michelin Guide for Texas — the only Tex-Mex restaurant in Houston to make the prestigious guide. Pair them with margaritas (both shaken and frozen), as well as agave-based cocktails such as the paloma and ranch water, beers, and non-alcoholic options.

    Sambrooks Hospitality also operates The Pit Room, the barbecue joint with locations in Montrose and Memorial City that earned a Bib Gourmand designation.

    “It’s a privilege to open in Bellaire and get to know and serve a new clientele,” Sambrooks said in a statement. “We’re excited to introduce our style of authentic, handcrafted Tex-Mex that has made us a Houston dining staple.”

    Candente will be open for lunch and dinner during the week beginning at 11 am. Brunch is served Saturday and Sunday beginning at 10 am.

    Don't miss the brisket nachos at Candente.

    Candente brisket nachos
    Photo by Duc Hoang
    Don't miss the brisket nachos at Candente.
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