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    Foodie News

    Pastry Dreams: Married couple hopes to bring real Parisian flair to Houston's burgeoning dessert scene

    Eric Sandler
    Feb 8, 2014 | 4:02 pm

    As if 2014 wasn't already shaping up to be the Year of the Bakery in Houston, a couple with strong ties to France wants to open a Parisian style bakery in Houston.

    By day, Sebastien Laval works as the Maitre d'hotel and sommelier at Restaurant Cinq in boutique Montrose hotel La Colombe D'or, and his wife Elizabeth works at a law firm, but neither of these careers are their true passion. For the past two years, the couple has been working at night on another project to deliver authentic French pastries to a small group of devoted followers, staying up late and using their home oven to turn out macarons, kouign amann, opera cakes and other classic desserts.

    They call this business, which operates under the Texas Cottage Law, The Pastry of Dreams.

    Tired of turning down work because they lacked the capacity to accept a project, the couple's seeking to turn their passion into a full-time business and have launched a Kickstarter in hopes of raising $50,000 to cover the difference between what they've raised from investors and what they need to sign a lease on a space.

    Want a mango cookie with chai tea filling? Elizabeth will tweak the recipe until its perfect.

    How did this project get started? How did Elizabeth transform herself into a baker? Naturally, the story begins in France. Elizabeth was a pre-med student on vacation when she met Sebastien six years ago.

    "We spent two weeks on vacation, then three months on the phone. He came here to the U.S. and we got married," Elizabeth recalls.

    As happy as they were together, Sebastien began to miss some of the comforts of home. "He says 'I miss French pastries.' I said 'Let’s go look for them,' " Elizabeth recalls. "I took him to all the French pastry shops. He was, like, this is gross. This is not a French pastry."

    Elizabeth began dedicating herself to making macarons. After a six month process of trial and error, she developed a base recipe that she was comfortable with. When the couple moved to Avignon in France, Elizabeth began to supply a restaurant with macarons. Her technique proved so successful that the restaurant chose to use her over a pastry chef with two Michelin stars for a special run of heart-shaped macarons.

    "I wasn’t told he had two Michelin stars," Elizabeth says about her competition with the chef. "After I delivered them, Sebastien told me he has two stars. I went, ‘Well, that’s out the door. He’s going to take this.’ That night we get a phone call from the chef saying the pastry chef made them, (but his) don’t look as beautiful as your wife’s."

    When they returned to Houston, the couple began to reach out to the French community to market their business. It's been successful, but the business is limited by their space, time and equipment.

    "We’ve been thinking about this ever since we came back," Sebastien says. "Now, we need the money to do it."

    Unlike some of the other high-profile bakery projects currently under development, the Lavals want their business to be a true, Parisian-style, take-out bakery. Citing Pierre Hermé and Laduree as examples, Elizabeth says The Pastry of Dreams will operate on the principle of "You go, you get your dessert and you go share it with someone. Most of the pastry shops (in Paris) have a line because it’s only to come in and get pastries. There’s none here like that."

    Even if they are positioning themselves to compete with the likes of Common Bond or Fluff Bake Bar, Sebastien notes that Houston supports a wide variety of French restaurants. Surely, the city can support multiple French bakeries.

    Another way the couple hope to distinguish themselves is through customization. Want a mango cookie with chai tea filling? Elizabeth will tweak the recipe until its perfect.

    "What motivates us is the passion. A lot of people I know in France wanted a fast course to getting into a job. They (are pastry chefs) because that’s what they know how to do," Sebastien says.

    "For us, we couldn’t fight it. We wanted people to enjoy what we enjoy."

    Want to try before you buy? The Pastry of Dreams will hold a free tasting event Saturday Feb. 15 at noon in the common room at 3000 Sage Rd.

    The couple is extremely proud of their opera cake.

    The Pastry of Dreams February 2014
    The Pastry of Dreams Instagram
    The couple is extremely proud of their opera cake.
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    Rising Star

    Houston restaurateur dishes on swapping Tex-Mex for new retro steakhouse

    Eric Sandler
    Feb 27, 2026 | 11:15 am
    Star Rover exterior
    Photo by Eric Sandler
    Star Rover is now open in the Heights.

    Restaurateur Ford Fry surprised Houston diners when he announced in January that he was closing his Tex-Mex restaurant Superica and replacing it with Star Rover, a casual, family-friendly steakhouse. With Star Rover now open for dinner and weekend brunch, Fry — who also owns Star Rover's neighbor La Lucha, casual taqueria Little Rey, and River Oaks fine dining restaurant State of Grace — explains that the decision came down to both economics and his own desire to provide the Heights with something he thought was lacking.

    “This was our smallest Superica. Superica for us takes so much — every day you’re making salsas, tortillas, it’s so prep heavy,” Fry says. “We weren’t big enough to be that successful. We didn’t have enough seats to make the labor make sense.”

    Rather than compete against Houston’s seemingly limitless roster of Tex-Mex restaurants, Fry saw an opportunity for a steakhouse that occupied a space somewhere between chains like Texas Roadhouse and Outback and fine dining staples like Pappas Bros. Enter Star Rover, which already has a popular location in Nashville.

    Just as La Lucha channels Fry’s childhood memories of the San Jacinto Inn, Star Rover takes some inspiration from iconic Houston restaurant Hofbrau. Diners of a certain age will see places like Hofbrau in the restaurant’s design. The walls are adorned with framed pictures, taxidermy, vintage advertising, and more.

    “The inspiration is if you were some old Texas dude who wanted to start a steakhouse you’d find a bunch of crap and put it on the walls,” Fry says. “We want to make it cool, but it’s got to take you away from what it was. Did we achieve that? I hope so.”

    Fry tasked chef Bobby Matos with updating the Star Rover menu for Houston. It starts with a selection of steaks — chopped, filet, T-bone, ribeye, or skirt — along with a half-chicken, blackened redfish, and chicken fried chicken. All of them come with milk rolls, salad, fries, and onion rings. Diners who want a little surf and turf can add either a crab cake or a fried lobster tail.

    The appetizer menu is similarly tidy, consisting of shrimp cocktail, oysters (raw or fried), potato skins, and vegetable crudités. Desserts include a selection of pies as well as soft serve ice cream.

    Since the steaks are thinner than those served at upscale steakhouses, they’re cooked hot and fast on a plancha and basted in butter.

    “We control the costs by the size of the meat,” Fry explains. “Meat is so expensive, how do you do a family-friendly steakhouse? It’s a 12-ounce ribeye and it’s choice. We put the right amount of age on it.”

    Tucked away in the corner of the menu is text that reads “Cheeseburger?! Just ask!” People should, because it’s a hearty half-pound, New York tavern-style burger that sits on grilled onions, is topped with cheese and mayonnaise, and is served on a classic potato bun. Think of it as the thick-patty counterpart to La Lucha’s thin-patty Pharmacy Burger.

    “I call it a lowbrow steakhouse burger,” Fry says. “It’s not a Peter Luger, but it may be better and it won’t cost as much.”

    Star Rover’s weekend brunch menu features the same pancakes that had been a staple at Superica. They’re joined by some new items, including baked-to-order cinnamon rolls, breakfast tacos, and kolaches that use sausage from Houston’s Roegels Barbecue Co.

    Star Rover exterior

    Photo by Eric Sandler

    Star Rover is now open in the Heights.

    The restaurant has one other old-school touch in the form of an eating challenge called the “I Ate the 76er.” Available with 24 hours notice, diners who finish a 76-ounce steak, milk rolls, salad, onion rings, and fries in under an hour will receive the meal for free, plus a t-shirt and the opportunity to sign a winners’ wall. The challenge reflects the spirit Fry is bringing to Star Rover.

    “A lot of it is scratching that itch of something fun I want to do versus what I think the neighborhood will like,” he says. “We did a version of this in Nashville with a stage. It’s where I eat when I’m in Nashville, because it’s what I want to eat when I’m there.”

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