Foodie News

Sneak Peek: Relaxed elegance and Mediterranean dreams at Ava Kitchen & WhiskeyBar

Ava Kitchen features zinc tabletops, panoramic windows and oversized lightfixtures made of curved strips of wood.
Photo by Sarah Rufca
'Old World' rigatoni with bolognese sauce
Photo by Sarah Rufca
White anchovies and Spanish chorizo
Photo by Sarah Rufca
Lamb T-bone chops with rosemary and pomegranate molasses
Photo by Sarah Rufca
Marinated mushroom and cippolini salad with speck and sottocenere
Photo by Sarah Rufca
Roasted stuffed squid with shrimp sausage
Photo by Sarah Rufca
Profiteroles
Photo by Sarah Rufca

When I walked up to Ava Kitchen and Whiskey bar, workers were just putting the finishing touches on the outdoor sign, a brilliant blue arc that wraps around the corner of West Ave facing Kirby Drive. (The guys assured me that walking under a mechanical ladder arm was in fact quite good luck.)

Inside, the huge windows running the considerate length of the restaurant demand to be the center of attention, though they are countered by some lovely turquoise tile at the entrance, oversized light fixtures and an interior bar with lots of clean white and a peek into the kitchen.

With the restaurant set to open Monday, I grabbed a preview of the Mediterranean-inspired menu, divided into small plates and entrees.

I started with a celery salad featuring bright (but not briny) white anchovies and some spicy Spanish chorizo (clean and fresh, with a pleasant hint or bitterness) and a mushroom and cippolini onion salad with speck and sottocenere cheese — richer and with a more dense, earthy texture and flavor.

The early stand out was the rigatoni "vecchio mundo" bolognese. Far from the thick, tomato-heavy American-style bolognese, this old world version was incredibly light, with just a dribbling of olive oil, flakes of mild cheese, and rich, flavorful chunks of beef. Truly to die for.

Another favorite was the squid stuffed with shrimp sausage and polenta, another paean to Spain, as well as the lamb t-bone chops with a pomegranate molasses, a rich combination that burst with flavor. Herb-crusted and seared ahi tuna with a Sicilian pesto was also a simple success.

I ended the meal with light and fluffy profiteroles, a fig-heavy take on baklava and a gooey tarte tatin.

It's a menu and a presentation that carves out the middle ground between the chef-driven cuisine that Robert Del Grande is known for and the new ultra-casual trend. Small plates start at $8 and larger plates run from $12 to $34, with most under $25. With a lounge space near the entrance but no private rooms (for now), the space is incredibly open and seems designed for a young professional crowd — hence the focus on wine and whiskey.

Partner Candice Schiller says that the concept for Ava was designed at the same time as Soleil, Schiller/Del Grande's new restaurant on Lake Austin.

"They both have a similar vibe, but Soleil has the seaside atmosphere and Ava is more urban," she said.

(Editor's note: Ave is owned by Schiller/Del Grande, whose co-founder Lonnie Schiller is an investor in CultureMap.)

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two days of bbq

2 Michelin-rated barbecue joints holding can't-miss pop ups in Houston

Courtesy of KG BBQ

KG BBQ is bringing its Egyptian-influenced barbecue to Houston.

Two of the Texas barbecue joints to earn Bib Gourmand recognition in the Michelin Guide will be holding pop ups in Houston this week. One is visiting from Austin, while another is a Spring favorite with a one-day-only menu.

On Saturday, December 14, Austin’s celebrated KG BBQ will be serving at Axelrad in Midtown. Part of Texas Monthly’s 2023 list of the Top 25 New and Improved BBQ Joints in Texas, KG BBQ has earned wide acclaim for pitmaster Kareem El-Ghayesh’s Egyptian-influenced take on Texas barbecue.

The menu will include many of KG’s most popular dishes, including brisket rice bowls with smoked Mediterranean rice; smoked lamb chops; sumac-and-cinnamon-rubbed lamb shoulder, and sides such as pink buttermilk potato salad and Baladi salad.

Service begins at 10:30 am. Preorders are available online with a minimum order of $60.

In a statement, Axelrad co-owners Adam Brackman and Monte Large say that KG will make more visits to Houston in 2025. El-Ghayesh adds that he’s a fan of the Houston bar that’s known for its spacious backyard with hammocks, a stage, and a wide-ranging menu of beer and cocktails.

“Since the moment I stepped foot in Axelrad, I loved their culture, their vibrant colors and artistic flare, their attention to detail and hospitality and love for entertainment makes this place perfect for bringing back my nostalgic memories of hosting pop-ups like how I started in Austin,” he said. “I’m proud to bring what I have created to Houston. From how diverse the city is, its beautiful variety of ethnic foods, and large Egyptian community, it has so much to offer. We are excited to serve up some Egyptian BBQ to the Houston community through our pop ups over the next year at Axelrad.”

On Sunday, Spring’s Rosemeyer Bar-B-Q will trade its usual offerings for a special menu of dishes made with smoked whole hog. The menu will include whole hog plates, whole hog sandwiches, whole hog-and-parmesan polenta cakes, and whole hog served over cheese grits with a New Orleans-style barbecue sauce as well as sides and desserts. Service will run from 11 am until everything sells out, likely sometime between 2 and 3 pm.

“The whole menu is filled with specials and cool items we don’t do everyday at the stand,” co-owner Jordan Rosemeyer writes in an email. The motive, beyond exercising some creative muscles, is to raise money for Hogs for the Cause, an annual event that raises money for pediatric brain cancer research and the families who are fighting it.

Like KG, Rosemeyer is also a member of Texas Monthly’s 2023 new and improved list. Located at 2111 Riley Fuzzel Rd., the humble trailer has earned acclaim for its weekly specials, housemade ice cream, and well executed barbecue staples.

news-you-can-eat barbecue pop ups kg bbq rosemeyer bar-b-q