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    Does a T-Rex hibernate?

    Innovative new French pop-up steps in for acclaimed downtown Houston restaurant

    Eric Sandler
    Feb 2, 2021 | 10:29 am

    One of Houston’s most acclaimed restaurants is taking a short break. Theodore Rex will be closed until May, chef-owner Justin Yu announced.

    In its place, Yu is turning over his downtown restaurant to chef de cuisine Kaitlin Steets, who will operate a restaurant pop-up in the space. Dubbed Littlefoot, Steets will serve two, five-course tasting menus: a degustation menu of Texas vegetables, meat, and fish and an all-vegetable menu. The pop-up will begin service February 13 and run through the end of April, at which point Theodore Rex will resume service with Steets back in her role as chef de cuisine.

    In addition to her time at Theodore Rex and its predecessor Oxheart, Steets brings experience from Willows Inn, a widely acclaimed restaurant in the Pacific Northwest. She earned a James Beard Award semifinalist nomination in the Rising Star Chef category in 2020.

    Littlefoot will be informed by those experiences, as well as classic French technique. Dishes include roast quail with green Chartreuse and fennel for the degustation menu and farro verde with smoked vegetable fumet for the vegetable menu.

    “I'm fascinated with culinary fundamentals, based on French cuisine,” Steets writes in an email. “It’s not really my style to try and 'recreate,' rather embrace how something 'should' be while also considering geographic relevance … Littlefoot should be playful, and I hope you have fun personally questioning whether the food feels familiar or new.”

    Steets emphasizes that Littlefoot isn’t necessarily a testing ground for a future restaurant. Rather, it’s both a chance to learn and the opportunity to exercise some different culinary muscles.

    “After six years at 1302 Nance, it's both exciting and terrifying to be taking over ‘officially' for a bit,” she writes. “It wouldn't be in Justin's nature not to have bountiful feedback and advice, but given his history with Oxheart, I'd be crazy not to utilize him as a primary resource.”

    Yu, who won a James Beard Award for his work at Oxheart, tells CultureMap in an email that he’ll use the pause to create new dishes for Theodore Rex and make upgrades to the interior and the plateware.

    “We're over three years in and restaurants as ambitious as ours sometimes need some time to breathe and re-energize,” Yu writes. "It's been a hell of a year and I'm looking forward to investing more of my time and money into some more details to make the restaurant better."

    He also praised Steets and emphasized that she’s earned this opportunity to show diners what she can do when she isn’t working within the framework of Theodore Rex’s cuisine.

    “Kaitlin deserves to have her chance to speak her thoughts and ideas on restaurants of food into existence,” Yu writes. “I'd entrusted her with my restaurant, and she just has a lot to say that didn't work with Theodore Rex because in essence, it was still my restaurant. I'm excited to go and eat at a place that I think deserves a space in Houston's dining scene.”

    Strawberry and sorrel, chiffon cake.

    Littlefoot strawberry sorrel
    Courtesy of Littlefoot
    Strawberry and sorrel, chiffon cake.
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    news/restaurants-bars

    Coming soon to Fredericksburg

    Houston restaurant vet serves up Roman-style eatery in the Hill Country

    Brandon Watson
    Dec 26, 2025 | 3:30 pm
    Bottega Salaria Fredericksburg
    Photo courtesy of Bottega Salaria
    Valerio Lombardozzi is opening Bottega Salaria in the former home of La Bergerie.

    Valerio Lombardozzi’s culinary career has taken him to the world’s finest kitchens, including restaurants owned by icons like Alain Ducasse, Giorgio Locatelli, and Joël Robuchon. In Houston, he led La Table and Tavola, where he earned a reputation for being one of the city's most engaging front of the house personalities.

    But his latest project might be his biggest accomplishment yet. The hospitality veteran is opening Bottega Salaria, a homey Italian osteria and artisan market, in the former home of La Bergerie at 312 E Austin St in his adopted home of Fredericksburg.

    Lombardozzi says the restaurant, expected to arrive in winter 2026, fills a gap in the Hill Country dining scene, but, more importantly, it's a reflection of his personal history and time spent working at his family’s restaurant in Rome.

    “[It’s about] where I grew up, how I grew up, and how I eat,” he shares.

    The three-concept experience is inspired by Italy’s Via Salaria, the ancient route Italians used to transport salt from the Adriatic Sea to Rome. The menu acts as a sort of travelogue, borrowing from the different cultures along the road, and the way village fishermen and shepherds ate.

    Lombardozzi is quick to say he didn’t want to open a chef-driven restaurant. Instead, the osteria will serve traditional Roman staples such as cacio e pepe, amatriciana, carbonara, saltimbocca with sage and prosciutto, and branzino carved tableside.

    “I was one of the last to be exposed to the old generation of professionals who knew how to carve elegantly for the guests,” he says.

    The adjacent bottega will stay open during restaurant hours, offering fresh pasta made on-site, house-made sauces, imported Italian pantry items, cheeses, salumi, breads, and biscotti. Patrons will be able to shop for individual items or put together custom gift baskets.

    Outdoors, La Fraschetteria will debut a new hospitality experience in the U.S. The self-guided experience invites diners to grab wine directly from garden shelves, gather a spread of meats, cheeses, bread, or pasta, and linger around long communal tables lit by string lights.

    Keeping the chit-chat going will be a thoughtful beverage program anchored by a primarily Italian wine list and imported beer. Lombardozzi says the cocktail menu might be a surprise, offering only gin and tonics, spritzes, and negronis. The latter has been made into a game where diners roll dice to determine the evening's combination of gin, vermouth, and bitters.

    After dinner, guests can select an amaro from a rolling cart, sip grappa and limoncello, or sip a neat whiskey.

    Lombardozzi shares that he wants Bottega Salaria to be just as comfortable for Fredericksburg locals as it is for destination travelers. Beyond daily service, Bottega Salaria plans community events such as garden wine nights with live music, Sunday movie nights, and hands-on cooking classes.

    The space is designed for ease with a warm palette combining olive green and pomegranate reds. The decor blends heritage and modernity, bringing in objects like antique mirrors, plates, custom-made lamps, and even old tablecloths and curtains for an Old World feel.

    "We’re not just opening a restaurant,” Lombardozzi says. “We’re creating a gathering place. A home for everyone who loves Italian food, culture, and the joy of sharing a meal with others.”

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