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    Drink Up!

    Drinking like the Scots: A mind-bending spirits pairing at a high-end Houstonrestaurant

    Amy Chien
    Darla Guillen
    Jan 16, 2013 | 10:48 am
    • Tasting portions of Laphroaig's 10 year, Cask Strength, Triple Wood and the new,limited-edition Cáirdeas
      Photo by Amy Chien
    • Pasta with Cresta de Gallo, Hen of The Woods, roasted yeast and parmesan
      Photo by Amy Chien
    • Swedish punch and cherry heering
      Photo by Amy Chien
    • Lemon pound cake with Bay Laurel ice cream
      Photo by Amy Chien
    • Wattie Buchan
      Photo by Amy Chien
    • Blood sausage Scotch egg with greens in buttermilk dressing and white anchovyshavings
      Photo by Amy Chien
    • McAlpin’s Treason #2
      Photo by Amy Chien
    • Simon Brooking teaches diners about Laphroaig.
      Photo by Amy Chien

    When I’m sending my whiskey on back to the sea

    Names will be shattered and glasses be filled

    The girls will get frisky and do what they will

    But the moment of finest reflection must be

    When you’re sending your whiskey on back to the sea

    Laphroaig ambassador Simon Brooking started off one of the most incredible pairings events with the whimsical toast above. Brooking then lit a brick-sized block of peat from Islay to convey the smoky aroma for which the distinctive Scotch is well known.

    When you attend a Laphroaig pairings event at The Pass and Provisions, you’re bound to do more than sample a variety of high-end spirits — you have to get your hands dirty, too. Before sampling the single malt whisky, we shook the snifter, wet the palms of our hands, rubbed them together and inhaled. This method was a way to replicate the experience of the quality testing method at the actual distillery in Islay and to represent a wider function of the Scotch as a way to warm one’s hands during the islands’ harsh winters.

    During our previous visits, we’ve often been encouraged to order the roasted yeast pasta, but being ignorant carnivores, we scoffed at the suggestion.

    Brooking’s other notes included cutting the scent of alcohol by inhaling with our mouths open and tasting at the middle of our tongues to avoid the alcohol sensors at the tips of our tongues. This allows for a more authentic taste of the flavors rather than being overwhelmed by peat and alcohol.

    As we were hypnotized by the smoke and the singing, beakers of barley were passed around and we were encouraged to chew on them in order to familiarize ourselves with the root of the malt whiskey flavor. Our palates wetted, we dove into the first course — Pass & Provision’s famous bread program. The cocoa nib rye and Dunbarton blue cheese plate soothed the initial campfire taste of the Laphroaig 10 Year.

    The creme de violet and drop of violet oil in the McAlpin’s Treason #2 cocktail enhanced the violet mustard served with the bread.

    Next up was a breakfast indulgence, a Scottish egg settled into a bowl of blood sausage surrounded by a salad dressed with buttermilk and white anchovy shavings. It was paired with “exploding” Scotch-infused orange juice and Celtic coffee topped with Laphroaig whipped cream. After our “post-modern” intermezzo cocktail made with the cask-strength iteration of our featured spirit, Swedish punch and cherry heering, guests dove into the main course.

    During our previous visits, we’ve often been encouraged to order the roasted yeast pasta, but being ignorant carnivores, we scoffed at the suggestion. The smoky taste of the roasted yeast complemented the Laphroaig Cáirdeas. Matured for the second time in its final bottle, we were fortunate to try the limited edition of this 30-year-old scotch.

    We were then treated to a seasonal apple cider and Madeira cocktail named Wattie Buchan, which of course, included more Laphroaig!

    Although Scotch cocktails have a tendency to be overwhelmingly strong, the cocktails at this pairing were made with great restraint, and as a result, the flavors were subtle yet purposeful. Much like the food, cocktails at The Pass & Provisions are carefully thought out and masterfully presented.

    Dessert did not disappoint, a log of lemon pound cake topped with an almost sculptural serving of Bay Laurel ice cream, which looked like popcorn but packed the perfect density and creaminess, capped off our meal with well-balanced sweetness. The Triple Wood with which it was paired was subtle enough to pick up on the citrus, grated spices and herbs without competing with the sweetness in the cake.

    With the 200-year-old Scotch’s ambassador on hand to oversee the pairings, our tasting experience was as carefully crafted and well-balanced as each individual course. And what better representative than one who serenades with Scottish rhymes in between courses for the brand that claims to be “smoother than you were at 25”?

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    What's Eric Eating Episodes 518 and 519

    Meet the men behind River Oaks' new destination for bowls and broth

    CultureMap Staff
    Dec 19, 2025 | 4:40 pm
    Honest Mary's restaurant exterior
    Photo by Becca Wright
    Find Honest Mary's in the River Oaks Shopping Center.

    On this week’s episode of “What’s Eric Eating,” Honest Mary’s founder Nelson Monteith and COO Andrew Wiseheart joined CultureMap editor Eric Sandler to discuss the Austin-based restaurant that just opened its first Houston location in the River Oaks Shopping Center (2047-A West Gray St).



    Monteith shares that he started the restaurant in 2017 in order to fulfill his vision of a restaurant which could serve food that’s fast, fresh, and affordable. A trained chef who operated pioneering Austin restaurant Contigo, Wiseheart joined the group to bring both culinary expertise and operational acumen to the grouping company.

    Part of what sets Honest Mary’s apart is that diners can add cooked vegetables to the rice and proteins at the heart of every bowl. The “Market Sides” section includes an array of roasted vegetables — including sweet potatoes, cauliflower, broccoli, beets, and Brussels sprouts — as well as black beans, maple-glazed carrots, and green lentils. Bowls can be further enhanced with toppings such as Texas pecans, crispy chickpeas, goat cheese, avocado, and apples as well as sauces such as creamy poblano, cashew lime crema, sesame vinaigrette, spicy peanut, chimichurri and apple cider vinaigrette

    Monteith explains that looking at the ingredients on display usually inspires him when he’s deciding what to eat at Honest Mary’s.

    “I will almost always look at the line and see what looks fresh and good,” Monteith says. “Today, I got the salted kale with white rice. Then, I got garlic-pepper steak. I added on lentils — they’re my go-to in the winter. They blend everything together, and I love it Then Brussels sprouts looked green. I got some jalapenos. Avocados, cause that’s healthy. Then I got the chimichurri sauce.”

    Honest Mary’s is also known for its hearty broths, a classic chicken and a vegetarian option made with seaweed and mushroom. Sandler raves about the chicken broth to Wiseheart, who shares how it’s made.

    “We spent six or seven months testing recipes and drinking it ourselves to see if it’s a good idea,” Wiseheart says. “I talk about it as a great complement to the menu. It’s healthy. It’s really simple. Most of the kitchens I came up with were rooted in French cuisine. This is just chicken stock with salt in it.”

    Listen to the full episode to hear more about Honest Mary’s plans for additional locations in Houston and Dallas. Then Monteith asks a Sandler a few questions about the Houston dining scene.



    In this week’s other episode, Sandler and co-host Mary Clarkson discuss the news of the week. Their topics include Home Slice Pizza opening a new location in the Heights; the closures of Brett’s BBQ Shop in Katy and Killen’s Barbecue in The Woodlands; and Esquire including ChòpnBlok on its list of America’s best new restaurants.

    In the restaurant of the week segment, the two friends discuss their recent meal at Hypsi, the Italian restaurant in the newly-opened Hotel Daphne. Listen to the episode to hear their favorite dishes and other thoughts on the meal.

    -----

    Subscribe to "What's Eric Eating" on Apple podcasts, Spotify, or wherever you listen to podcasts. Hear it Sunday at 9 am on ESPN 97.5.



    Honest Mary's restaurant exterior

    Photo by Becca Wright

    Find Honest Mary's in the River Oaks Shopping Center.

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