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    8 things to know

    8 things to know in Houston food right now: Montrose Chinese favorite bids farewell

    Eric Sandler
    Jan 15, 2021 | 12:47 pm

    Editor’s note: Houston’s restaurant scene moves pretty fast. In order to prevent CultureMap readers from missing anything, let’s stop to look around at all the latest news to know.

    Openings, closings, and coming attractions

    Korean fried chicken restaurant has Bonchon has opened its first location inside the loop in Midtown at 2100 Travis St. In addition to its signature fried chicken — available in spicy, soy garlic, or half and half — the restaurant serves a range of Korean specialities including bibimbap, japchae, and bulgogi alongside a full range of beer, wine, and cocktails.

    On January 21, the restaurant will celebrate its grand opening with a special offer of a free dozen boneless wings with purchase of any combo meal. The restaurant opens daily at 11 am.

    Time is running out to get one last order of crispy, spicy asparagus at 369 Oriental Bistro. Like Half Price Books, the Chinese-American Montrose staple will close after this weekend to make way for Skanska USA’s massive new mixed-use development at the corner of Westheimer and Montrose.

    An employee tells CultureMap that the restaurant is looking for a new location but hasn’t found the right fit yet. Fingers crossed that it happens soon. Life without those fried dumplings and General Tso’s chicken will be a little poorer. CultureMap ranked 369 as the city’s 99th best restaurant on its 2019 list of Houston’s top 100 restaurants.

    JCI Grill (f/k/a James Coney Island) has permanently closed its Town & Country restaurant (701 Town & Country Blvd.). In response to a post about the closure on the Memorial Area Eats Facebook group, JCI director of marketing Michelle Holmes writes that the company decided to move on from the location due to its lack of a drive-thru, which has proven to be essential during the pandemic. She adds that the company is actively searching for a new outpost to serve Memorial-area diners.

    Eaker Barbecue will close after service on Friday, January 22. In an email sent to the food truck’s supporters, pitmaster-owner Lance Eaker writes that sales have declined dramatically during the coronavirus pandemic. Fans will have a few more days to get Eaker’s Central Texas-style barbecue brisket and gochujang pork ribs at the Westbury Baptist Church (10425 Hillcroft St.)

    “I can't begin to tell you how much our friends, family, and our customers have meant to us as we have made this crazy journey,” Eaker writes. “That's what kills me, after all of your support and patronage we feel like we are abandoning you guys. Please know that this was not an easy decision to come too and that it weighed heavily on our minds for months now.”

    Torchy’s Tacos will next two new Houston-area locations will open in Stafford (11327 Current Ln.) this spring and Richmond’s Aliana development (4818 Waterview Town Center Dr.) this summer. The Austin-based, gringo taco slinger recently received a $400 million private equity investment that will allow it to expand to 10 more states over the next four years. Currently, Torchy’s operates more than 80 locations in seven states.

    Other news and notes

    Austin food festival Hot Luck has selected Houston’s Southern Smoke Foundation as its charity beneficiary. Founded by Franklin Barbecue pitmaster-owner Aaron Franklin, Hot Luck is a multi-day food and music happening; no announcement has been made about whether the festival will return in 2021 or wait until 2022. As part of the partnership, two of the festival’s sponsors — Yeti Coolers and Tito’s Handmade Vodka — have made donations to the foundation’s emergency relief fund that provides cash assistance to restaurant industry workers.

    “I’m in awe,” Southern Smoke co-founnder Chris Shepherd said in a statement. “Aaron has supported Southern Smoke since day one, and I’m so honored that he and the Hot Luck team chose Southern Smoke as their beneficiary. Hot Luck is an incredible event—one I look forward to every year—and now, the Hot Luck team is family.”

    Pier 6 Seafood & Oyster House has named Chris Loftis as its chef de cuisine. Executive chef Joe Cervantez and Loftis are childhood friends who’ve worked together many times over the years, including at Killen’s Steakhouse. Loftis will assist Cervantez with overseeing the kitchen and developing new dishes at the San Leon restaurant.

    “Chris is very passionate. He takes a lot of pride in what he does, and I know I can count on him to deliver and execute well,” Cervantez said in a release. “But it’s also nice to have a friend there. I know the future is going to be really bright. It’s going to be a great partnership. This is just the beginning of what’s to come.”

    FM Kitchen & Bar has updated its offerings for 2021. Chef Bety Barrera’s new additions include grilled salmon tacos, flank steak with salsa verde, and a birria torta. In addition, the comfort food restaurant has added some zero proof cocktails that will remain on the menu even after dry January ends.

    Bonchon has opened in Midtown.

    Bonchon large fried chicken
    Courtesy of Bonchon
    Bonchon has opened in Midtown.
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    what's next for chef sunny

    Exclusive: Outspoken Houston sushi chef sounds off on ghost kitchen pivot

    Eric Sandler
    Sep 3, 2026 | 4:13 pm
    Sunny Bertsch Chefs Bowls Three Fish Bowls
    Courtesy of Sunny Bertsch
    Chef Sunny Bertsch recently closed Kaisen Sushi.

    Chef Sunny Bertsch is moving on from his embattled ghost kitchen concept. On Sunday, August 30, he closed Kaisen Sushi and will soon replace it with two more affordable concepts.

    Like Kaisen, the ghost kitchen sushi restaurant that earned a Best New Restaurant nomination in the 2026 CultureMap Tastemaker Awards, Bertsch's new projects, called Chefs Bowls and Three Fish Bowls, will both be ghost kitchen concepts that operate in Third Ward’s Blodgett Food Hall. Bertsch explains that new concepts reflect the lessons learned from operating Kaisen for just over a year.

    “Ghost kitchens are really designed for a particular kind of business, which is essentially lower ticket average QSR food,” Bertsch says. Kaisen, where a standard order could run $60 or more per person, never did enough business to be sustainable, an issue that Bertsch spoke about regularly on social media.

    “Long story short, I didn't know what I was getting myself into by trying to put a really super nice concept in that my particular location. It was really difficult to overcome,” he says.

    Bertsch acknowledges that his inexperience in the restaurant business also played a role in the decision to close Kaisen. For example, he says he pays his staff more than traditional restaurants, but Kaisen doesn’t generate the same revenue a brick-and-mortar restaurant does due to factors such as its lower prices and lack of alcohol sales (among others).

    So he’s pivoting to two new concepts that will be more similar in price with the other concepts at Blodgett, roughly $15-25 per person. Although they’re similar and operate out of the same kitchen, listing them separately is necessary, because delivery platforms limit the radius of raw versus cooked concepts, Bertsch explains. Both are expected to launch the week of September 7, after Bertsch completes renovations to his space at Blodgett and gets the menus uploaded to third-party delivery services like Uber Eats and DoorDash.

    Sunny Bertsch Chefs Bowls Three Fish Bowls

    Courtesy of Sunny Bertsch

    Chef Sunny Bertsch recently closed Kaisen Sushi.

    Chef’s Bowls will serve rice bowls topped with proteins such as chicken teriyaki, salmon teriyaki, and steak, which will be cooked sous vide and seared to order. Bertsch hopes to stand out with a little more attention to detail than his competitors.

    “We've had access to rice bowl concepts that operate within our vicinity, and we see the kind of food that's being put out,” Bertsch says. “I want to see if I could do better. I'm not saying I am better, but I think there are some intangibles that are missing with the rice bowl space. I want to make my honest attempt at seeing if I can provide food at a lower price, and see if we can just make something from scratch that's of quality.”

    That same spirit will power Three Fish, which is named for the three proteins that are the top sellers at every sushi restaurant — salmon, yellowtail, and bluefin tuna. Bertsch intends to use the same fish that he used at Kaisen, just prepared differently. Using bluefin will differentiate Three Fish from similar concepts that use less expensive yellowfin tuna, Bertsch explains.

    “I'm really not a personal fan of yellowfin tuna. It's tasteless, and you’ve got to do a lot of dressing up of yellowfin tuna to make it taste interesting,” he says. “I'd rather have bluefin tuna. We've been testing it in the kitchen here and there when we have time, and it's so much tastier. Tuna should taste like tuna.”

    As for Kaisen, it could come back in the future. Bertsch says he’d like to find a brick-and-mortar location that would allow him to serve both dine-in and to-go customers. For now, he’s focused on making Chefs Bowls and Three Fish as successful as possible.

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