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    First Taste

    Who needs Tex-Mex? Laurenzo's Grille is (almost) all-American

    Carol Rust
    Jan 19, 2010 | 7:00 am
    Don't forget dessert, especially the key lime pie.

    From its plush, blue-curtained portico to its swaggering wall display of autographed jerseys bearing names like “Olajuwon,” “Namath” and “Staubach,” Laurenzo’s Grille is a study in, well, something different.

    The newest incarnation in the Laurenzo family’s long tradition of filling Houston’s well-nourished bellies, the dining spot at 4412 Washington Ave., doesn’t serve the clan’s typical Tex-Mex fare. Sure, the menu touts tacos—stuffed with rosy prime rib—but there’s not a refried bean in sight.

    Is Mama Ninfa rolling over in her grave?

    Hardly. The savvy businesswoman, who died in 2001, would probably give her 39-year-old proprietor grandson, Domenic, a high-five if she could have seen the restaurant’s crowded parking lot just two weeks after it opened last month —before Domenic and his business partner father Roland had done any advertising to speak of. After all, she didn’t open Ninfa’s on Navigation out of a passion for food, she did so in 1973 after her husband died of a heart attack and she had to find a way to feed her five children. Necessity, sometimes, is the grandmother of invention.

    And Domenic’s got kitchen cred. He toddled about in Ninfa’s kitchens from the time he was 3. He washed dishes and prepared food there growing up. He attended Houston’s acclaimed Allain and Marie Lenotre Institute from 2000 to 2001 before diving into the restaurant business full-time at El Tiempo Cantina’s three locations, which he owns with Roland and mom Blanca.

    Aside from the cooking school, all Domenic’s experience has been Tex-Mex. So what’s with this all-American eatery?

    “We’ve always loved this kind of food. We eat it at home, and we have it when we dine out,” Domenic says, recalling mouth-watering memories of The Palm, Brennan’s and Houston’s, his favorite. “After all this time in Tex-Mex, I wanted to break out of the family tradition.”

    His Web site touts the prime rib and margaritas, both exceptional. The all-Angus beef comes from farms that eschew hormones, antibiotics and pesticides, and the margaritas are made after customers order them, using fresh lime, lemon and orange juice, top-brand triple sec and a smooth, high-octane tequila. Besides American standards like the burgers, chili and steaks, the menu pays homage to his Italian grandfather, Domenic T. Laurenzo, with its Chicken Napoli and Spicy Shrimp fra Diavolo, and, of course, Mama Ninfa, with stellar guacamole, white chili con queso and (prime rib) quesadillas.

    Some entrees resemble cultural collisions, such as the Chicken Salad Speciale, with its greens, avocado, mango, feta, honey-dijon dressing and Thai peanut sauce. It’s also a customer favorite. The sashimi-style ahi tuna steak tops out the price range at $28; the side orders of fries, white poblano cheese rice and jicama cole slaw hit the low notes at $4. Items might seem a little pricey until the huge portions actually arrive.

    OK, has anyone remarked about Domenic’s departure from the family’s culinary tradition?

    “Just about everybody has,” he says. “But just about everybody likes the food once they have it.”

    Almost everybody.

    Domenic admits he and his dad initially goofed when they came up with the restaurant’s original name, Laurenzo’s Grille dello Sport, in an effort to tout the family’s love of all things athletic — and the fact they have vintage, autographed jerseys for sale in the name of charity. Sports fans saw the sign and flocked to the place like so many moths to a Bud Light, expecting a wall of televisions blaring football and basketball. And insult to injury: the menu didn’t have inexpensive buffalo wings.

    Domenic hastily yanked any reference to sports, from the sign out front to the menu items. Since he had quite a few sports-related entrée names on the menu, (the large cut of prime rib used to be “the Heisman”), the menu looks a bit naked now without them.

    Menu nudity notwithstanding, what’s with the jerseys? A family friend and philanthropically minded attorney offered Domenic his private collection as the restaurant was taking shape, with the understanding that customers wishing to buy one, which range from $200 to $2,500, would write their check to their favorite charity. The friend handles the donations, making sure they get to their appointed causes.

    The jerseys do seem a wee bit incongruous with the elegant Brazilian oak booths that fill the dining area and its green faux marble pillars supporting stained-glass lamp fixtures. “We were going for a homey look,” Roland says. “And we like sports.”

    The 4,800-square-foot building, in separate lives both a piano bar and a laundry, has a comfortable ambiance that starts to blur warmly around the edges after one of the Laurenzos’ margaritas — just as the Ninfa’s on Navigation began to look a tad palatial after a margarita there.

    (In the years after her Navigation restaurant’s near-overnight success, Mama Ninfa and her family opened 50 more in Houston, San Antonio, Dallas and Germany. But their business plan proved overly ambitious, and in 1998, they sold their restaurants and the Ninfa’s name.)

    At Laurenzo’s Grille, there’s a happy buzz of conversation rising from the semi-compartmental privacy of the dark oak booths along with the clink of silverware against plates. Waiters dart into the kitchen, emerging with well-presented entrees I cannot keep my eyes from, curious if someone may have ordered something better than my food.

    But after two visits, I can report more than a few sightings of UFOs (ultimate food options): the guacamole, the French Dip, the prime rib, the queso and the (pucker up!) key lime pie.

    Oh, that key lime pie. Whatever you do, save room for it.

    A house speciality: Prime rib

    unspecified
    news/restaurants-bars

    Food trends

    Halal BBQ is booming in Texas, with Houston making a major contribution

    Associated Press
    Aug 25, 2026 | 4:30 pm
    Levant BBQ
    Levant BBQ
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    At 9 am on a scorching Saturday in June, nearly 100 people were already lined up outside Goldee’s BBQ, a small, wooden-shack restaurant in Fort Worth.

    First in line was 30-year-old Thanh Huynh, who had been sitting in a lawn chair on the joint’s rustic porch since 6:30 am.

    “I have, like, a whole list, and I’m going to spend lots of money here. It’ll be worth it,” he said, laughing while rattling off a long order of meats and sides from his phone’s Notes app as a sweet, smoky scent from nearby pits hung in the air.

    Opened in 2020 by a group of his friends, the restaurant was named the No. 1 barbecue spot in the state by Texas Monthly a year later, and then won a Bib Gourmand award from the prestigious Michelin Guide, given for “great food at a great value.”

    The restaurant serves classic Texas barbecue like craft pork belly, sausage, and ribs. But it also offers halal brisket, turkey, and lamb.

    "Halal" means meat raised and butchered in accordance with Islamic guidelines. It refers to the method in which the animals are slaughtered, one that focuses on humane treatment, cleanliness, and acknowledging the value of life — similar in concept to kosher food in Judaism.

    A growing number of halal places have opened around Fort Worth in recent years, and there are also non-halal restaurants that use halal beef, such as burger institution Kincaid's, the new Burger Vault in Keller, and the forthcoming Tick Tock Taco in Colleyville.

    Growing Texas trend
    At a time when Republican leaders are increasingly targeting the state’s growing Muslim communities, halal barbecue joints like Goldee’s are thriving in Texas. Across the state, Muslim pitmasters are gaining recognition for putting their own spin on one of Texas’ most iconic culinary traditions.

    At least a dozen barbecue spots now serve halal meats, including Yearby’s Barbecue & Waterice, run by Black Muslim couple CJ and Sabrina Henley, soon-to-be in Plano; and Levant Mediterranean BBQ, a restaurant with locations in Houston and Frisco that's bringing its menu of smoked beef and lamb to Sugar Land in late 2026 or early 2027. Truboy BBQ, which started as a mail order halal barbecue supplier, opened a brick-and-mortar restaurant in Missouri City last year.

    Goldee's Barbecue Goldee's Barbecue draws halal diners. Goldee's Barbecue/ Facebook

    “Now there are so many options, and for us to have highly rated barbecue, it’s a blessing,” said Haris Ghaffar, who drove an hour from Celina and stood in 90-degree weather for nearly two hours with a friend for the halal options at Goldee’s.

    Growing up in the 1990s, Ghaffar said a McDonald’s Filet-O-Fish sandwich was one of the few halal meals he could eat while dining out. Back then, halal food was seen as serving a small community. Today, it’s a multibillion-dollar industry that’s part of the American culinary mainstream, said James Beard Award‑winning food writer Farhan Mustafa, who wrote about the rise of American halal barbecue for Bon Appétit magazine in 2025.

    “Halal food is American food,” said Mustafa, who is based in Seattle. “It belongs on your plate. It belongs in the casual chat. It belongs in hip hop tracks. It’s the most American thing there is.”

    Mustafa said Muslims are part of a growing list of communities putting their stamp on Texas barbecue. “Whether they’re first, second or third-generation Muslims or Muslim Americans or just Americans, they’re bringing what they know and what excites them,” he said.

    More than salt and pepper
    Texas barbecue is typically defined by salt-and-pepper brisket and pork ribs, but this new crop of halal pitmasters are adding inventive twists, often based on their own family heritages.

    Zain Shafi, a pitmaster and co-owner of Goldee’s, previously ran Sabar Barbecue, a food truck that offered Pakistani-infused halal dishes, such as brisket with rub that included spices like bay leaf and coriander.

    Sabar was nominated for Best BBQ in CultureMap's 2025 Tastemaker Awards, and made the list of Texas Monthly's Top 50 Barbecue Restaurants of 2025. The restaurant was also featured in a recently published BBQ book Texas BBQ: The Art of Low and Slow. He closed Sabar in December 2025 after two years.

    Sabar BBQ Sabar Barbecue offered a Pakistani twist on BBQ. Sabar Barbecue

    Shafi brought tandoori smoked turkey to Goldee’s menu. And sourcing halal cuts, he said, was a natural choice because they are “the highest quality” meats.

    Goldee’s chef and part owner Nupohn Inthanousay also blends his Laotian heritage, serving a smoked Lao “sai oua” sausage with sticky rice and a fiery, tangy dipping sauce.

    At Kafi BBQ in Irving, owner Salahodeen Abdul-Kafi brings halal Wagyu beef and Iraqi spices to classic Texas barbecue, challenging what he said is the “traditional old guard of Texas barbecue.”

    “My goal at Kafi BBQ is to make the best barbecue in Texas,” Abdul-Kafi said. “I have not been shy about that at all, and making the best barbecue in Texas does not necessarily have to include pork.”

    A former Silicon Valley tech worker, he moved to Texas six years ago in search of a Muslim community. On weekends in his backyard, he smoked brisket for friends. By 2024, he bought a smoker and opened Kafi BBQ.

    He said he spent months testing and perfecting recipes and finding local producers. Abdul-Kafi attributes his obsession with crafting a stand-out menu to the Islamic concept of “Ihsan”— an Arabic term meaning doing something with excellence for the sake of God.

    On a Sunday afternoon this summer, the restaurant’s red booths were packed with diners, drawn to menu items like the 13-spice Wagyu brisket, pomegranate-glazed beef belly burnt ends and Iraqi-inspired spicy beef sausage.

    “That sausage, I’d probably put it at the top sausage I’ve ever had, and we eat barbecue a lot. This place is unique,” said Jonathan Tate, a Fort Worth resident who came to Kafi BBQ with a friend after reading about it on a Facebook foodie group.

    “I don’t necessarily have to have it halal, but it’s nice to know they took good care of the food, the meat,” his friend Jon Sklar said, before going back in line to order oxtail.

    Kafi BBQ Meat at Kafi BBQ in Irving. Kafi BBQ

    'We love barbecue'
    Although political rhetoric against Muslims in Texas has become increasingly hostile — some GOP lawmakers even discussed a ban on halal food at a conference this month — pitmasters like Abdul-Kafi see the rise of halal barbecue as an effective counterargument.

    “It’s an example of exactly the opposite of what the Islamophobes talk about, right?” he said. “They say, ‘oh, Muslims don’t integrate, they stay alone, they don’t help society and all this stuff.’ And it’s like, I’m sitting here contributing to the most well-known cuisine of Texas.”

    One of the diners at Kafi BBQ, Houston native Muhammad Sohail, 23, said the restaurant reflects who he is — a proud Texan and Muslim. “This place is super important because I can see halal within the culture of Texas, which is my culture at this point,” Sohail said. “We love the food. We love meat. We’re Muslims and we love barbecue.”

    After finishing a big lunch with 10 relatives, Areeba Ali, a Dallas native of Indian heritage, said the restaurant’s appeal cuts across communities, which she said is evidence that halal barbecue isn’t a niche but resonates broadly with Texans. “If you look around in the restaurant, you see everybody in there — it’s not just one demographic in there,” Ali said.

    For Mustafa, that success is ultimately a testament to the resilience of Muslim American communities.

    “No matter how much they try to erase us, our food is here to stay,” he said. “You will see the power of just good food and the fact that most people really seem to understand that this is just as American as anything else.”

    ---

    This story was written and produced by Religion News Service and distributed by The Associated Press. It also includes information from the CultureMap archives.

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